Showing posts with label lightweight car batteries. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lightweight car batteries. Show all posts

Friday, October 10, 2014

Battery Tender 021-1164 10W Solar Charger

Battery Tender 021-1164 10W Solar ChargerThe Battery Tender 10W solar panel worked well for 7 months. Now the control unit has apparently failed and the charging LED only flickers occasionally. I was propping the panel against the inside of the windshield of my parked car where it could receive direct sunlight in the afternoon, but even when the sunlight was indirect, the LED charging indicator on the Battery Tender would glow as soon as the sun was fully up in the morning. The car in question doesn't get driven enough to keep its battery from running down, and the solar panel was doing an excellent job of maintaining the battery. I had purchased an adapter cable that plugged into the car's cigarette lighter socket so it wasn't too inconvenient to set up and remove the panel. [Battery Tender Deltran Cigarette Lighter Adapter 081-0069-5]

Previously, I needed to use a battery charger every couple of weeks and now, unfortunately, that chore has returned.

the "charger" works great to maintain a charged battery for exteded periods of non use but did not work to charge a low battery.

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I purchased this Solar Battery Charger to maintain the battery in my vehicle while it is not in use for extended periods of time. Nearly all cars have alarm systems and other devices which draw power from the battery on a continuous basis. This current drain can reduce the battery voltage enough to cause Sulfides to form on the plates of the battery. When this happens, the battery is doomed to an early death. The solar charger generates just enough power to counteract the small current drains, and prevent the battery voltage from dropping. I had it connected to a vehicle which was taken out of service for several months. When I switched on the ignition and hit the starter, it was just as strong as if I had used the car yesterday. I'd call that a darn good product! I also shopped around and purchased the power plug (cigarette lighter) adapter, to further simplify connecting the solar charger to my car.

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I like to know the required mounting dimensions however, main product photo, as it appears to be rectangular shaped, how can this render to 17x17x3? 3 inch depth? are you searious? do i or someone need an eye exam posting their oem products with sloppy details? it seems oem resellers are becoming sloppier time after time and liquidate their last holding inventory...

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After one month my 1979 Ford Pickup being stored in a lot started up on the first click as if it had been started and ran the day before.

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Saturday, October 4, 2014

Battery Tender 021-0144 Battery Tender Plus 6V Battery Charger

Battery Tender 021-0144 Battery Tender Plus 6V Battery ChargerI use this charger to keep the battery in my 1931 Model A fully charged at all times. The eyelet harness that attaches to the battery cables permanently is great as the battery in this car is under the wood floorboards and is hard to access. Now after a ride I just open the hood and plug the Tender harness in and its good to go. Always keeps the battery in good shape.

A Battery Tender will constantly maintain a battery without the damaging effects of a "trickle charger". Full charging initially at 1.25 amps (7.25 volts), the charger will switch to a float-charging mode of 6.8 volts to monitor a 6-volt battery. When the battery is accepting only 0.5 amps, the charger's float mode will decrease both amps and voltage. The amp rate will drop to virtually no current (0.10 milliamps), and the voltage rate will drop to 6.8 volts.

~ The "gassing point" of a 6-volt battery is 6.9 volts. Therefore, applying any voltage greater than 6.9 volts for an extended period of time will overheat the battery and warp the separator plates, permanently damaging the battery.~

(Note: This last paragraph above is the diagnosis for why 99% of all 6 or 12 volt motorcycle batteries fail after only a short life. People unknowingly use a standard 6 or 12 volt battery charger on their new battery which overheats the battery and permanently warps the separator plates. Use a Battery Tender from day one and your battery will outlive it's warranty period.)

I also recommend using "Charge It"(AGL890277Y), a cadmium additive from J.C. Whitney.

Directions for 3-cell, 6-volt M/C batteries:

"Use 1/3 of a 2.5 oz. bottle of "Charge It" into each of the three battery cells BEFORE the acid (electrolyte) is installed. Each cell receives 0.833 fluid ounces of "Charge It" and 7.167 ounces of acid.

Note: By adding "Charge It" into the battery first, you will only have to fill the battery with acid up to the upper level line, instead of having to measure exacting amounts of each." 1941-1959 Mechanics & Owners Guide to Harley-Davidson OHV Big Twins Vol. 1

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I use this battery tender on my classic cars as well as any cars I store for the winter in another location than my home, it performs as advertised andI have used them for many years.

Read Best Reviews of Battery Tender 021-0144 Battery Tender Plus 6V Battery Charger Here

The unit is small...works great... I no longer have to worry if my 52 chevy will start

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Just what I needed to keep my 6 volt batteries charged on my 107 year old boat [ a Ray Laker Launch ] made in 1906.

Thanks D

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Thursday, October 2, 2014

BESTEK 150w power inverter car dc 12v to 110v ac inverter dc adapter laptop charger notebook adapte

BESTEK 150w power inverter car dc 12v to 110v ac inverter dc adapter laptop charger notebook adapter dc charger ac adapter usb charger Dual USB 3.1A MRI1511U
  • Converts 12-volt DC power from a vehicle battery to 120-volt AC power. Simply plug the inverter into your vehicle's DC outlet, and connect your device to the inverter's AC outlet or USB port.providing on-the-go household power in the vehicle.
  • Ipad, Iphone compatible. USB upgraded from one USB port 1A to Dual USB port: DC5V,3.1A in all. Save your charge time. one is 1A, the other is 2.1A special for iPad.
  • Short circuit,overload,overheat,low battery voltage,over battery voltage Protections, full protection features keep your appliance and car from damage.
  • High tech achieved: Input & Output Isolation avoid electric shock ! Built-in fuse & cooling fan. Resum working after protections.
  • For DC12V and Car ONLY, not applied for DC24V and airplane use !

I got this as part of my emergency kit, just to have more power options in the event of a power failure, like we had in Sandy. I have not tried this in "anger" yet, no need has come up, but I did take a nearly dead BlackBerry, Kindle HD, a smart phone and it charged them all perfectly (I did them one at a time.)

Summary:

I took off a couple of points for the sloppy AC wave form and the idle current use, but would recommend to a friend with the above caveats, and would personally buy again knowing what I know now, after all it does work well for what I wanted. While potentially annoying to someone using this in the car stopped for a long time, the fan running all of the time is actually a good thing for the life of the product, parts will run real hot under a full load and cooling them properly will help prevent failures.

As a rule of thumb always get 2 times the wattage / mA your device actually needs, these run best at 50% load and that also allows plenty of headroom for occaision usage spikes from your device. (Plus I think the ratings are on the "optimistic" side, attained only with an ideal load under ideal circumstances, so not a lie, just not likely your experience.)

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PROS:

Will USB charge most phones and tablets.

115VAC -Suitable for the uses I had, phone wall wart

DC Output (USB) very clean and obviously just going straight through a regulator, nicely done, no introduced ripple at all (means same as battery itself) -Also no change in voltage with load change, held rock solid, again, just like a battery would (did)

Form Factor, small, easy to use, just toss in glove box

Dual USB port to charge two small devices at once, tried my BB and smart phone at the same time

Reasonable Fan Noise while car is in motion (count on it being on all the time, no matter what the load)

CONS:

Very Ugly 110VAC Waveform -This is likely to not work on anything but older non-switching style wall warts, and very well built new ones, you will want to try this before needing it. If your wall wart is 2" square or larger it is likely an older style one and will work fine, if it is a itty-bitty one (technical term :) then it may not work, my BlackBerry one worked fine and it is clearly a new style switching wall wart, but it is a very expensive one (well built). To be fair it should be noted that all small static inverters work this way, but I suspect some do a better job than this unit, the only thing is you'll pay a lot more for a "true sine" wave inverter and likely not need it.

Draws 220mA just plugged in, most of this is the fan. This is only an issue if you had intended on leaving it plugged in all the time.

While the fan was not bad I would not want to be stopped in the car for a long time using it, but on the road, on the move at about 35MPH I could not hear it at all.

Form Factor is also a pro and con, on the con side is where you need to plug it in, as an all-in-one unit, make sure you have enough room around your lighter / accessory plug for this to fit. If that is an issue there are other unit available with a cord or you can buy the lighter extension cord for a few bucks here and solve the problem, much smaller plug, and much deeper socket so it stays in better.

Video:

This is shows the Bestek version of a 110VAC sine wave and a view of a real sine wave from the wall (utility power). Looks a little rough and easy to see why it might bother power supplies that can't easily smooth this out, such as inexpensive switching supplies. (Non-geeks, this is not as bad as it looks, as noted all inexpensive static inverters are going to look about like this)

Specs as measued by me:

Idle Current Draw about 1/4 Amp (220 mA)@ 13.5DVC

AC voltage varied from 110.08VAC @ 12VDC exactly, 112.84VAC at 13.5VDC so it moves around with input voltage.

AC votage also varied on load, from a base of 112.84 VAC at no load, to 107.17 VAC at 120W, at 75W it was 110.26 VAC

Frequency varied from 59.774Hz 61.032 but a 10 minute average came in at 60.044Hz (75W load)

DC ripple was not measurable on anything I own, essentially 0 any load

DC Voltage 5.04VDC, like a rock

BTW -The 300W version of the Bestek waveform looks exactly the same, so same design just beefier parts for more power.

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This inverter produces a square wave AC output, which is unsuitable for inductive loads such as fluorescent lights or computer notebook power supplies or for motors, instead of the nice sinusoidal AC output of normal mains power. It should work for resistive loads like incandescent lights, although those are higher power and are being phased out now.

Even if at this price point one has to expect it, the user should be aware of this significant limitation. When connected to even low power fluorescent lights or computer notebook power supplies, the inverter does not power the device and its indicator LED switches from green to blinking red. The USB DC output was sufficient to power devices such as USB lights however.

The plastic face on one side of the inverter was cracked inside or otherwise not firmly attached to the body so that side pulls out a few millimeters when an AC plug is removed. One therefore has to hold the face in place to avoid separating or breaking it further.

The end that plugs into the car power port is short enough and the face/body large enough that it may not fit in some cars without a wired extender because the large body may be physically blocked by the plastics in the car console.

Read Best Reviews of BESTEK 150w power inverter car dc 12v to 110v ac inverter dc adapter laptop charger notebook adapte Here

Looked for a power inverter for my daughter so her children can watch videos on the long trip. Charges the laptop and phone just fine. Works as advertised. Doesn't get hot.

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This is a very wonderful product with very reasonable price. I use the adapter to power my laptop when on road. It is very quiet, and works very well. I no longer need to worry about running out of battery. The product was shipped quickly and very well packaged. Pretty satisfied with the seller's service. Job well done.

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Mine arrived fast and has a red body. I like the sturdy one-piece design.

This 150W unit has passed all the tests I threw at it so far, for charging USB devices and running small devices requiring 110VAC. NOTE: Because 150W can draw over 10A, I have upgraded my under-dash fuses to 20A.

The box it was shipped in is close-fitting, and makes a great carrying case.

For the price I was expecting something noisy or ineffective, not the case. This is a wonderful product at a very nice price. I will recommend to friends!

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

AmazonBasics Programmable Digital Tire Gauge

AmazonBasics Programmable Digital Tire GaugeBuyer Beware: I wanted to like the Amazon basics product line because I'm an active Amazon Prime consumer, but my first experience with their tire gauge product is very disappointing. The electronics and digital display are fine and worked well for the half dozen times I could use it. But within just a few uses, the hardware that fits on the tire valve broke right off and fell apart. I tried to snap it all back together but the metal fittings actually ripped in half. I'm a very careful user of my gadgets and I did not apply any unnecessary force, it was just very cheaply made with cheap mechanical fittings. I will purchase a name-brand tire gauge next time and try to get my money back on this one.

Update: 7/3/2012

Once again, industry-standard Amazon.com customer satisfaction shines. On 7/3/2012, based upon reading my 1-star review, I was contacted by Amazon Executive Customer Relations who apologized for the faulty device and offered a free replacement or full refund. Since I already purchased a low-tech, traditional analog pressure gauge to replace this one a couple days ago, I accepted the refund. Regardless, Amazon customer service and buyer empathy takes all the risk out of AmazonBasics purchases and I won't hesitate to give another branded gadget a try next time. This is why so many of us are addicted to this incredible consumer retail experience. Greg

This Product: 1-star

Customer Service: 5-stars +

I am a fanatic about maintaining the pressure in my tires. I also follow MY recommended pressures, not the manufacturer's (I run a few psi over spec). Add to that that I live in a temperate zone, as most all of us in North America do... and I get a lot of use from tire pressure gauges.

I have used digital, graduated stick type, and high accuracy dial type over the years. Each has it's advantages (although a stick type's only advantage is that it fits in your pocket easily, as they are not very accurate). But I like the combination of accuracy and ease of use provided by a good digital gauge. Easier to read, and often easier to use.

This gauge is the best I've ever had at far below the price of some I've owned. It takes only seconds to register your pressure, which is displayed in large numbers with an illuminated back screen. It holds the reading for 10 seconds. The angle of the head and size of the unit are well designed, making it easier to make good contact with the valve stem than many others I've used (nothing I hate more than bleeding air while trying to get a good seal with a gauge). There is even a small LED flashlight feature that is useful if you are trying to work in the dark.

You can pre-set the desired pressures for your front and rear tires into the gauge to serve as a reminder. These setting don't actually perform any function (such as telling you how much over/under you are), which would be a nice design upgrade... but it is useful for those who don't easily remember the prescribed pressures.

The bleeder side of the head (used to let air out of the tires) is a little awkward to use, due to the angle. But it is still useful. The case for the gauge is actually very nice and zips closed. It has enough padding to protect the gauge, should it be dropped on the road or garage floor. The feel of the tool is good very ergonomic. I rate this gauge five stars because it excels at everything I need in a tire pressure gauge, and the odd bleeder angle is not enough of a problem to take away a star. I love it!

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This is my first-ever Amazon review, but I had to write one considering how impressed I was with this product.

I've owned an Accutire MS-4000 for over 10 years, and it finally gave out. I liked it and it worked well, but was always a little touchy when sealing up to the valve stem. I looked on Amazon and read all the reviews of gauges, carefully reading the negatives, and then came across this one. Could someone have finally made a well-designed digital gauge? Especially one with all glowing reviews? I decided to take a chance on it, and so far I'm glad I did!

It appears well-made, and right away, the metal swivel head beats the Accutire hands down. It seals perfectly and is much easier to place on the stem. I didn't have any trouble using the bleeder on it either. The display is very easy to read and stays lit long enough for me to go from tire to tire.

As for the memory function, that's not a selling point for me, and I didn't even bother to pre-set them for my tires. I know what pressures I want to run, and this feature doesn't help me. I'm not saying it's a bad feature, just one I'll never use.

I don't know who Amazon partnered with (or contracted out to) to make this gauge, but I'd say it was quite successful. I'll probably be buying a few of these as gifts for family and friends, considering how easy they are to use and how well they work.

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This unit is pretty nice and I like it a lot. However, I feel compelled to take two stars off for the following reasons:

1. The unit takes two CR2032 (watch) batteries. After having this for only four months, the batteries died, which I thought was odd. Only having one CR2032 on hand, I decided to test the batteries to make sure it was the batteries and not the gauge itself. To my surprise, one of the batteries was OK and the other was absolutely dead. Points off for sending me a product with an infirm battery.

2. When I went to put the batteries into the gauge, I discovered that there's no indication of any kind what battery polarity should be. I consulted the manual which said "Replace old batteries with two CR2032 batteries ... matching +/polarity as marked." Points off for leaving me in the dark (FYI, positive side up).

3. There's no slip-off battery cover. The manual says "Remove the battery door on the back using a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the black screw." (I have no idea what the black screw is) There are two sets of screw holes, one to the front and the other to the rear. I assumed, given no other information, that both sets needed to be removed. In fact, only the back set requires removal. Now I'm not going to gripe about having to take out and put back two screws unnecessarily. What irritated me was discovering that the two sets, while the same length, were not the same diameter. An obvious difference is size wouldn't have bothered me, but in this case, the front set of screws were 0.2 mm larger. I am not making this up -I checked with a caliper.

I love Amazon and I love their stuff, but in this particular case, they could have done a better job.

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My concerns about accuracy were taken care of when I bought another aneroid gauge to replace one I keep in another car. The new aneroid gauge gave exactly the same readings as the Amazon gauge. Bottom line is that my old aneroid gauge was old and giving low readings. After using the Amazon gauge now for about a year I have not problems with it and prefer its digital readout to looking at an aneroid gauge dial.

A solidly constructed tire gauge that is easy to use. In particular, it seems to grip the valve stem on the tire and does not slide off easily like other tire gauges I have used. My only concern is how accurate this gauge is. My other gauge, which is a standard analog dial gauge has seemed to match up closely with what the tire shop sets my pressure at with new tires. The Amazon digital gauge, however, reads 4.5 psi below what my other gauge reads. This is a pretty big discrepancy at 30 or 35 psi. I'm not sure which gauge has the accurate reading, or if both of them are inaccurate.

Another minor nit to pick is the description of how you can fine tune the pressure with an air bleed function. This function is just a little protrusion on the back of the gauge that you use to depress the valve stem on your tire and let out air. You have to stop taking the pressure, turn around the gauge, let out some air, turn the gauge around again and press it on the tire to read the pressure. On my old analog dial gauge there is a bleed valve that you activate by pressing a button while the gauge is still on the tire. This is easier and faster.

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Griffin Itrip Auto Universal Plus Refresh FM transmitter and PowerJolt Auto Charging for Portable A

Griffin Itrip Auto Universal Plus Refresh FM transmitter and PowerJolt Auto Charging for Portable Audio Playersthe clearest frequency to transmit on is 87.9. However this station is only available while the device is in international mode. Customer support will not tell you how to change the device into international BUT I WILL. Hold down the + and button for about 20 seconds. 'US" will flash in the upper left corner. Now press the + button until you see 'intl'. Now the device will unlock ALL frequencies 87.7 107.9. Use 87.9 or 87.7 for best reception. Also try changing from LX to DX (stereo to mono) because DX (mono) seems to give off a stronger signal without compromising sound. your welcome.

After reading other reviews, I was worried this wouldn't work well for us. But it does just fine.

Used it with Zune, iPod and iPhone without a hitch. Around town, a selected preset works the best and avoids re-tuning. On the road, click the button once when you encounter static or interference, and you are in the clear.

A hard wired connx would be better; this is a good second option.

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Got this item to charge and play music on my Droid. However, it appears to have some issues with charging the Droid. It will start charging the unit for a few seconds or even minutes and then stop (even if the Droid isn't anywhere close to fully charged). The FM radio component seems to work well though, so I'm using it, but it's annoying of course to plug in both a separate car charger and the iTrip. Griffin's tech support has been helpful and quickly got me a replacement unit to try, but it has the same issue. I would only recommend this with the Droid if you are aware that the charging aspect of the iTrip may not work with it.

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Finally a FM transmitter that is worth something....the sounds that came out were really clear, the range was good (my antenna is on the front of the car), and the smartscan worked great so that i could keep my eyes on the road for the most part....and the USB charger? great idea. i don't think you could do better for the price.

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I've had a number of these fm transmitters. I had the first one Griffin released for the early iPods. I had a Transpod for the iPod Video. All worked very well. Easy plug and play. Never a problem.

I bought an iPod Touch and tried one of the docking units from Transpod. It didn't allow you to play video whilst plugged in. It also died after 24 hours so I returned it.

I bought one of these (much less expensive) Griffins as a replacement and it works great. I can set it up so my son can watch video whilst I'm driving. The sound quality is very good.

I've driven through cities with it and country and no problem. It's signal is powerful enough to drown out most local stations if I stray into an area where there's conflict. I've heard some newer models had to tone down the transmitter strength. This one doesn't seem toned down. I can use all of the stations without problem.

Design could earn it another star as the cables are a little long and having the transmitter in the middle is not the most convenient. But that's nit-picking. I can't see a real reason not to buy this. I see there's a white version around for less $$$ so that might be a better buy for the frugal.

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Sunday, July 13, 2014

CTEK Multi US 7002 12V Battery Charger

CTEK Multi US 7002 12V Battery ChargerI bought my Ctek 7002 In Jan of 2011.

It died last week. I called Crutchfield where I got it, It is no longer carried there.

They did give me the 800 number for Ctek. I called and explained it was not showing anything. No Lights at all.

I was given an address and asked to send it back, No RMA or anything. I was not expecting much back, maybe an answer and a cost to repair. I came home today and UPS was dropping off a box. I Did not order any thing.

To my surprise it was a brand new Ctek 7002 with all cables in new box.

I had expected a call with a price not a new unit.

Customer service is AAA+ quick to get back to me.

I think It was a total of 7 days since I shipped it to them

I will recommend a CETK EVERYTIME from now one

Thanks CTEK

CTEK Multi US 7002 12V Battery Charger

I've always owned the typical 15lb car charger. This is quite a step up in technology smaller and lighter than a quart of milk, and comes with a nice enough carrying pouch for the charger and any accessories you might add. I also bought the cigarette lighter attachment, so I don't even have to open the car's hood/trunk and remove the battery terminal cover to charge the car. This is a good choice to keep an infrequently-driven weekend car (or boat) topped off. I feel much more comfortable keeping one of these connected for battery maintenance than the old-style dumber chargers.

It's not as suitable as one of those old-style boxes for blasting a quick 50amp charge into a completely dead battery to get the car started the charge rate is an approximately steady 7 amps until the battery is charged. The old style chargers may begin at 10, 20, or even 50 amps, then taper off rapidly below that as the battery begins to take a charge.

One thing about most lead-acid car batteries you really don't want to let them get completely dead, or they permanently lose some of their ability to take and deliver a charge.

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I bought this charger mainly for the Desulphation, Reconditioning and the Supply modes. One thing I hate to do, when I have to change batteries, is having to reset all my radio stations, and run my vehicle around to get the OBD computer to cycle through all the emissions stuff so it runs right. With the "Supply" mode I don't have to do that anymore because it supplies power until I swap the batteries. But also I like the fact that you can't reverse the polarity and damage the battery and its anti-spark technology. It's simple to use and understand without using the manual to figure out what the different lights mean like some others. This charger tells you exactly what mode and what part of the cycle it's in, and if there is an error with the hook up or battery it shows that as well.

I used this on a friends battery he was going to recycle due to it being dead. He tried charging it on his battery charger but it wouldn't take a charge. I put the CTEK 7002 charger on it and it charged it right up. I used the Reconditioning mode on it, and now my friends charger shows the battery as good and will apply a charge to it. I know some other chargers claim they can do this as well, but I can only speak to this charger and what it did. I highly recommend it, although it seems a little pricy, it's well worth it.

On a side note, I thought I had an issue with this charger and sent an email to CTEK on Sunday evening. Monday morning I had a response from Matt, the Regional Sales Manager, and he assured me it was working correctly; my hats off to Matt and CTEK for the fast and courteous response and the outstanding product.

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I purchased this charger for the purpose of charging an Optima blue top series dual purpose AGM battery. The unit is fantastic! I ended up using it to charge a whole slew of other batteries as well, including a standard lead acid deep cycle battery and a smaller battery for a jet ski.

As promised the unit when first turned on does an "analysis" of your battery to determine exactly what is needed. If needed it will go into a reconditioning phase before charging begins. From there everything is automatically controlled supplying just the right amount of current and charge to the battery to charge, maintain, and condition the battery. I have been the victim in the past with other chargers that apply too much charge and "fry" or litterally cook a battery to the point where it is rendered useless. This unit prevents any of that.

Bottom line...love it. Highly recommend it for todays technically advanced batteries. And it's super lightweight and compact.

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This charger remains in my old 85 T-bird to keep the battery topped off. This car is not driven very frequently so the battery goes dead. I have another charger, but it is old technology and can not remain connected for long periods of time. The CTEK stays connected always. In fact, I have it tied down with cable ties in the engine compartment.

The charger maintains the battery at peak level, and will not overcharge the battery. The reverse polarity protection also works quite well. I hooked it up at night and misread my positive and negative terminals. No harm to my battery or the charger after having it connected overnight. Fixed the hookup and charged up the battery inside of a day.

The cables provided allow you to use either alligator clamps or bolt on the eyelets onto the battery post clamps as I have mine. This works great! I highly recommend this charger.

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Monday, April 28, 2014

BESTEK 120w charger dc ac power inverter car dc 12v to 110v car adapter usb charger car samsung ada

BESTEK 120w charger dc ac power inverter car dc 12v to 110v car adapter usb charger car samsung adapter pda car charger htc adapter car lg charger mp3 car adapter iphone charger car motolora adapter ipad car charger blackberry car adapter laptop charger notebook adapter ac charger 1211USThis inverter was carried by my daughter's miniature horse in a local Parade of Lights. It powered 3 strings of LED lights using 8 AA cells, it powered the lights for an hour which indicates the inverter was very efficient at this load level. The power cord plugs into the inverter and is keyed to prevent reverse polarity. I had to cut the power cord to solder it to the battery holder. It was about 20 degrees out and worked fine. I will be ordering more of them as my daughter has a horse business and the parade makes for good advertising.

This Item was perfect for the application I used it for. I used it to light a small Christmas Tree for our Football tail gate. It was on for at least three hours and did not drain the battery on the car at all. It also shipped withn three days.

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This was a sturdy, quality product and they delivered quickly. I had no problems and the device worked great. Not too bad of a price either.

Read Best Reviews of BESTEK 120w charger dc ac power inverter car dc 12v to 110v car adapter usb charger car samsung ada Here

Very small yet effective. Powered my 19" tv and DVD player plus charged my phone and Ipod all at once on a 5 hour road trip

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If you want a very small device to power a Laptop, IPOD or any other device via AC power (120W) or USB through the cigarette lighter in your car, this is the product.

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Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Allstar ALL76150 Black and Red Plastic Top Post Style Battery Terminal Cover

Allstar ALL76150 Black and Red Plastic Top Post Style Battery Terminal CoverI discovered that I had to cut the cover and hold them on with tie wraps, unless I cut the battery terminal connectors. This was not specified in the description.

Pretty much exactly as pictured, however, if you're thinking of trying to fit it over wires that are already installed, good luck, I had to cut and tape mine to make them fit, but for a few bucks it's better then an electrical fire.

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They are good enought for a fast solution, but the exact dimensions are allways an issue. It is better to be sure about it before you buy them.

Read Best Reviews of Allstar ALL76150 Black and Red Plastic Top Post Style Battery Terminal Cover Here

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

ACDelco AB16CLB (16CL-B) Lead-Acid Conventional Powersport Battery

ACDelco AB16CLB Lead-Acid Conventional Powersport Batterygreat battery,price, communication, and delivery.would definately purchase another when i need one. i hope it withstand the test of time and rough water.

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Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Sunforce 11260 2500 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter

Sunforce 11260 2500 Watt Pure Sine Wave InverterHorrendous customer service and unreliable product

I have had nothing but problems with this inverter. It is completely unreliable. The OST is continually tripping the unit, which causes the AC to turn off and everything attached to it. After months of the unit tripping, it finally permanently failed, error code 529, and almost caught my camper on fire. It took weeks to get the smell out. I'm a seasoned electrical engineer with many years of power supply design experience, so I know the unit was installed correctly with very heavy wires, and located closed to four 125Ahr batteries in a clean, dry and well-ventilated area.

After sending over five emails to customer service, I finally received a response after threatening to write a bad review on the internet. They instructed me to send the unit back to NY, and they would look at it. I know it was delivered through a tracking number, but after numerous emails, I still have not received even an acknowledgment that they received the unit...very frustrating to say the least.

My 2 cents...buy from a more reputable company with customer service. You may need to spend twice the money, but it is worth every penny to get something that you can install, forget and enjoy for many years.

** UPDATE **: The 2nd unit fried as well. Big smoke came out of it, hopefully nothing was hooked to it when this happened. It looks like a very unreliable product.

If you are looking for a 2500W true sine wave power inverter, this is probably the cheapest and it will do a decent job as long as you don't have appliances that require a big peak wattage for starting a motor.

The main annoying feature is that if your input voltage gets too high (>14.5V) or too low (

Buy Sunforce 11260 2500 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter Now

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Charge-It Concentrated Battery Additive 32 oz.

Charge-It Concentrated Battery Additive 32 oz.Almost four years ago, the battery on my Sienna 2000 would not start the van. It had slightly bulged on one side and would no longer take the charge. It also failed a load test.

I was about to replace the battery when a friend of mine gave me a small 2 oz. bottle of Charge-It. At first I doubted its capability to rejuvenate a dead battery, but I had nothing to lose if I added the stuff to my battery. I poured the liquid into the six cells, and charged the battery overnight. The amazing thing happened. The next morning, the battery's state of charge went up to 75%. I then continued to charge the battery for about 8 hours, and the state of charge moved up to 100%. The van started immediately, and the battery has been going strong ever since, with no more signs of sulfation. I felt good because I not only saved money but also helped protect the environment in a meaningful way.

Since that successful experience, I have been recommending Charge-It to my other friends. They have used it to regenerate dozens of discarded, dead, or weak batteries, many of which were deep cycle ones. As long as the batteries did not have mechanical damages, the results have all been wonderful. My friends all thanked me for recommending this magical product.

Charge-It is the same cadmium formula as VX-6. I wrote a chapter in Vol. 1 about the install procedure for a 6V, H-2 Harley battery.

The reason I suggest getting the 32 and the small 2 or 4oz. bottle is that the small bottle has sections marked on the side for easy installation.

The 32 oz. bottle is to turn your friends on to, when you see how long your battery last.

I have a 11 yr. old new Japan, 6V, H-2 for my Panhead. The battery sat factory sealed in it's original box. Each of the (3) cells in the battery had vacuum-sealed caps.

When I took the battery caps off and looked inside, all (3) cells were packed completely furry with white calcification, from reacting to the humidity in the air (the vacuum had long ago equalized). I installed 1/3 of a small bottle into each cell, then added electrolyte (acid) and stood by as the calcium began rapidly dissolving, and added more electrolyte as I watched the acid level in the cells drop as more calcium continued to dissolve. After the initial full-to-the-top-line acid is installed never use acid again, only distilled water. Charge the battery every time you add more distill water to top off cells.

My 11 yr. old (new) battery came to life and holds a full charge in all (3) cells.

I have a 3 yr. J.C. Whitney 12v battery in my Honda 250 Rebel, purchased from J.C. Whitney and put into service on 12/26/06, that has lasted 5 yrs. and still going. [Note: The date of installation is buzzer-etched into the top of the battery.]

TRUST IN "CHARGE-IT".

**********************************

The 11 yr. old, furry celled, H-2 Harley, 6V, battery is still kicking strong. Like new. ONLY because of CHARGE-IT. The battery retains 6.4 volts when meter-tested after a ride.

The 3 yr. old "3-year" Honda 250 Rebel battery is still going strong as expected.

~ DO NOT CHARGE A MOTORCYCLE BATTERY WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN A (micro-amperage) "BATTERY TENDER" or Schumacher® listed below. An automotive or 1 amp "motorcycle battery" charger will still warp the plates and Charge-It will not straighten warped plates.~

********************************

June 11, 2011 Here with an updated report:

The 12 yr. old H-2, 6v, Harley battery is still going strong! I've installed it on my Panhead, which now has 200 miles on a new pistons and rings. When I put the battery on Battery-Tender trickle charge, the top "charging" lamp will go out in about 20 minutes and change to the lower drip of "Monitoring Charge" lamp below.

The "3-year" Honda 250 Rebel 12v battery is still going strong at (5) yrs.

********************************

"Geritol for your battery, or what?"

*********************************

11/11/11 My 5 yr. old (36. warranty!) 12V Honda Rebel battery and my 12 yr. old, pre-crystalized cells of my Harley-Davidson, Charge-It revived battery are still going strong.

I left my 6V battery uncharged for 3 weeks put the Battery Tender on it and the "storage charging" lamp lit right away, by-passing the "charging" lamp altogether.

Charge-It is mother's milk for your battery.

**********************************

March 24, 2012...... both batteries are still kickin' !

June 24, 2012....... sadly we've taken the 6V, H-2 battery off life-support on approx. May 1, 2012, when the H-2 failed to retain enough voltage to trigger the BatteryTender® into a charging cycle. Once shock-started to life by the Schumacher® micro-power-charger, the H-2 would begin the Tender® chg. cycle, but then would never transition from "charging" to "monitoring". Ol' H-2 led a hard life from the beginning, what with being crystallize in dry-storage and all. H-2... we hardly knew ya'. :(

*************

The now (5) year old (36 month) Honda Battery is still going strong. I have a new 12V on the shelf (vacuum, dry-storage) like a buzzard perched on a fence rail, rocking back and forth waiting for the 12/26/06, 12V battery to expire.

Happy starts all around. :)

***************

9/25/12 Sad to report the 12/26/06 (engraved) 12V Honda battery failed to start the motor this morning. Pushing the horn button received only a "pop" from the horn-speaker. So well.. doing the math...let's see.. that's 6 yrs., 3 months from a Taiwan "Yatch" (3) yr. battery using (obsolete) CADMIUM content Charge-It.

You have my word on all the facts. Thank you.

Buy Charge-It Concentrated Battery Additive 32 oz. Now

I've been using this for about 6 months in several batteries, not long enough to really comment on the lifetime of a battery, but it looks like the real deal. I've not had any trouble with the batteries, all are charging up well.

Read Best Reviews of Charge-It Concentrated Battery Additive 32 oz. Here

Before I start, please note that this post is not intended primarily as a review of the product per se (althogh I do own two bottles of the product, and have played with this product in my research lab), but rather an attempt to correct some myths that were accidentally introduced and perpetuated by earlier reviewers on this Amazon listing page.

(As for the product itself, my feelings are rather neutral; I feel that it may be a useful battery additive at times for certain flooded (aka wet) lead-acid batteries and for certain users, depending upon the exact battery design/construction and dependent upon the condition and history of the battery. I can state firmly that there have been a number of research studies over the past 70 years, and also hundreds of user testimonials from profossional-level users in industry and commerce that indicate that some earlier battery additive products that were very similar in composition to ChargeIt did indeed reduce sulfation, and also increased charge acceptance and charge capacity of treated batteries, and also reduced the volumd of deposits and sludge at the bottom of the cells, and also reduced temperatures within the cells during charge and discharge. So, ChargeIt will likely be a very useful product for treating some batteries that have not aged well.)

Several earlier reviews about this product, and also some notes on other websites as well, claim that the battery addditive product called Charge-It (manufactured by SolderIt, aka Solder-It) contains cadmium sulfate, the same compound that was the active ingredient in the old famed VX-6 battery additive product (which is no longer available in the USA). This claim that Charge-It contains cadmium sulfate is not true, and, according an an engineer at SolderIt with whom I spoke inAugust of 2012, the Charge-it product has never contained cadmium in any form since it became part of SolderIts' product line. Rather, according to the engineer with whom I spoke at SolderIt, the active ingredient in Charge-It is aluminum sulfate dissolved in water, along with a proprietary wetting agent (this wetting agent is used because aluminum sulfate does not dissolve easily in water.)

BTW, since so many commenters and websites claim that the Charge-It product contains cadmium sulfate, and since some folks do wish to purchase cadmium sulfate (aka cadmium sulphate) battery additive products, the only two battery products that are still commercially available today (August 2012) that I am sure contain cadmium sulfate as the active ingredient are Inox MX2 and Battery Equaliser, and I have verified these claims by perusing the MSDS documents for each product, and in one case, by also calling the manufacturer and speaking with their engineers on the phone. I suspect that a few of the other commercially-available battery additives available on the market may also contain cadmium sulfate as well, but the two products that I have mentioned above are the only products for which I have been able to verify this claim with 100% certainty.

There are also several websites and webpage comments that have claimed that Charge-It contains calcium disodium EDTA, a chelating agent, as its active ingredient. Again, this claim is entirely not true, although there are indeed some few battery additives on the market that do contain EDTA as the active ingredient. (I personally would never recommend using an EDTA product as an additive in a flooded lead-acid battery, but to each their own cup of tea!)

To the best of my knowledge, the statments that I have made above are entirely true, and I am a well-known multi-disciplinary consulting scientist/engineer with long experience in the field of flooded (aka wet) lead-acid batteries and their care.

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I bought this product to (hopefully) extend the life of my 6+ year old batteries in our golf cart. I cleaned the batteries and terminals and then added the suggested amount to each filler cap on the six volt batteries. The batteries took a long time to charge, but each time after that, the time it took to charge has decreased. So far, so good. I knew the batteries had just about had it, so this was a gamble to see if I could extend the life for a year or two. Golf cart batteries only last 4-6 years as it is so I am getting "extra mileage" out of the existing ones. $25.00 versus $600.00 on a bet is a no-brainer, so I thought why not? I would try it on just about any battery. UPDATE 2/22/13: THE GOLF CART IS STILL RUNNING FINE. I THINK THE PRODUCT IS WORTH THE PRICE!

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Battery Protector (T3)

Battery ProtectorI was exited when I read this item's description. I have a convertible Mustang that is several years old that, while I love it, I don't drive it as much as I'd like. This, of course, results in an often-drained battery. The Battery Brain Gold promised solutions to all problems. A manual button to cut or reset batter power, an override switch, a remote control so you don't have to lift the hood, an automatic power monitor in case you forget to cut the power or just decide not to, and even direct power connect wires to power specific items while the power is overridden. Fantastic! Except it doesn't work.

The brain was pretty simple to install and it worked for two days, giving me false hope. And when I say two days, I mean a drive to the gas station one day and a three mile drive to work the next. Nothing happened when I tried to cut power after arriving at my office that second day. The remote was completely ineffective. Upon arriving at home at the end of the day I opened the hood and tried the manual button. Nothing. Not only did it not cut power, the button didn't even click. It has ceased to anything at all.

Believing that the unit was simply defective, I ordered another. This one didn't even work as well as the first. The button didn't work at all and the remote cut power twice before stopping and never restored power. I had to manually override the device and then just disconnect it.

I really do not feel it's worth the money on this one; and to make things worse, Amazon increased its price by $30 since I purchased it! I will now try a manual switch which will physically sever the power flow and pay $60 less to simply raise the hood.

My battery brain worked as advertised until it died for no reason four months later. The only reason I gave two stars instead of one is that it does work . . . until it stops working. Based on some other reviews I have read, it seems that I am not the only victim. I would stay away until they change the design and solve whatever is making these things fail.

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I installed the Battery Brain Gold as an alternative to a remote mount manual kill switch (I have an old car and I like to disconnect the battery in case of shorts when it's not in use. Harder to steal as well)

The device installed pretty easily and included all the hardware neededand then somebut it can be awkward if you don't have some space around the battery or the positive battery cable length is marginal.

Don't have a long term feel for it yet...I'll add comments if it fails to perform.

Read Best Reviews of Battery Protector (T3) Here

Put this on my 2006 Corvette because it sits a lot and after a couple of weeks the battery could go dead. Used it for about a week and then finally took it off. Started actively driving the car again (with a new battery) I'd park the car, go back to start it 10 minutes later and it would have disconnected my battery for no reason. Was random. May work on some cars but is probably pure luck at what their trigger threshold is. Would not recommend.

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I bought this for my motor homr both as a theft detterent and to make sure I didn't wind out in the middle of nowhere with a strong chassis battery...after about 6 months of use it is working as advertised...I am about to order another one for the "house battery"

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Friday, October 25, 2013

Kat's 1153 Handi-Heat 200 Watt Magnetic Heater

Kat's 1153 Handi-Heat 200 Watt Magnetic HeaterFor my old tractor, with no room in the water jacket for a freeze plug heater, this is an excellent solution. The magnet is powerful enough that you feel secure leaving it attached for a while unattended, and it transfers the heat to the oil and metal more effectively than a dipstick heater, which has very little surface area. The nice thing about attaching this device to the bottom of the part you want heated is that any heat that escapes flows up and around the part it's stuck to.

I've used this heater for the past year in Northern Wisconsin, where the weather can go to fifty below. Just put it on the oil pan and plug it in. It maintains sufficient warmth and oil viscosity to start the engine the next morning despite the cold.

I bought the smaller one and it's worked great. If I had one complaint it's that, while the unit functions in extreme weather, the electric cord insulation cracked due to constant use in sub-zero weather. I will replace that, since this unit is indispensable to someone living in a very cold area.

I have a specialized engine block heater in one of my cars and have used this unit on the others. It functioned as well as the engine block heater, despite it's small size.

I would highly recommend this unit. The magnet is plenty strong to attach firmly to a flat metal surface and the small size is actually an advantage when sliding it beneath the engine to attach it.

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Works well, would suggest a higher wattage for diesel engines though. The package insert (in fine writing) states "indoor use only," which is ridiculous since if my vehicle was indoors I wouldn't need a block heater.

Read Best Reviews of Kat's 1153 Handi-Heat 200 Watt Magnetic Heater Here

I have purched three of these heaters (two from Amazon, one from an auto parts store). Two of the three have melted the plastic case resulting in a very hazardous condition. Five Star Mfg. Co. was unresponsive. I strongly caution against this product for use on anything of significant value or in an area containing combustable materials.

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I looked at this and one of the "150 watt heating pad" units & wasn't sure which was best, so with both being ~$25 (where it's not like buying a car) I got one of each (figuring I may put one on a car and keep one for other uses). One of the places I wanted to be able to use them was on a small engine (like for a generator or snow-blower) and with those having an aluminum block (where the magnet won't stick) I got a steel plate ~1/8 thick I could bolt up to the engine base. I put this heater on the plate (without it on the engine yet) & plugged it in, after 1 minute the plate seemed totally cold still. I pulled the plate off and put my hand near the unit where it's base was warm, so put it back on. Apparently, the magnetic bars (that we assume holds the hot iron to the plate) stick out enough that it leaves a 1/16-1/8 gap between the base creating the heat and the attached plate. I'm not sure if that's intentional (giving the magnets full contact to be sure they hold it where placed), but the heat either needs to "jump" the air gap or all be funneled thru the little magnet bars to get where you want it to go. If we're talking about temps of 20 or less where you want to warm an engine, having the air gap around it doesn't seem great to me. After leaving it for 1/2 hour the plate did get up to ~130 degrees, but that was it (so this does have temp controls that cycle it on & off shown from the max temp and I checked the power draw). Seeing another review of "The plastic melted on multiple units" make me wonder how it'll hold up in the long run.

I then tried placing the "heating pad" unit on the same plate (after cleaning it as per instructions and putting a bead of silicone around the edge that needed to dry). With it plugged in, the plate is too hot to hold within 1 minute (~140 degrees) and gets up to ~200 within another minute even with the less power draw.

So my conclusion is if you want good/quick heat transfer, the heat pad unit seems better with full contact putting the heat directly on what you want to warm. If you want an easy to slap on unit (that can be removed), this one may be good. Either one needs bare metal for where it's placed, so I see no real difference there (they both say "Don't place on painted surfaces cuz it'll damage the paint, so strip off any paint if there is any where you want it".)

Note: If you're wondering "How do you warm a generator engine with power out (which is when you need it)?" I have a deep cycle battery & inverter that should work for 1/2 hour, then with the gen going I can recharge.

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Thursday, October 24, 2013

Merkury Innovations AC-DC USB 2.1a 2 Tone Charger (Black/Blue)

Merkury Innovations AC-DC USB 2.1a 2 Tone ChargerI've only used it once thus far but it does the job. In a couple of hours I went from a less than 10% charge to more than 50%. Since I usually plug my iPad in at bedtime I have a full charge by the time I get up. So it works for me and cost is somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 of an official iPad charger. This charger didn't come with a cord. From what I read in other reviews you need to be careful when buying cords because quality varies greatly and will have a major effect on charging, but as I said no problems thus far. I will update this review if I have any problems with quality or longevity of the charger.

Vector VEC1087C 2/6/10Amp Automatic 12 Volt Smart Battery Charger

Vector VEC1087C 2/6/10Amp Automatic 12 Volt Smart Battery ChargerThis unit replaced a simple but effective charger. Wish I could go back. Often refuses to "engage" because battery voltage is termed "too low to charge". (Jump start of engine is thus req'd to get recharge going) Display is too dim to view in any daylight condition. Controls and error messages are not intuitive, requiring frequent reference to manual. Despite revered brand name, surely there's something better out there.

Almost useless. The B&D Vectors, as many have pointed out, will not charge a dead battery. So you need an old fashioned charger to precharge it before using the B&D. They claim this is to keep you from trying to charge damaged batteries, but this explanation is scant confort on a cold morning when all you want to do is get your car started and get to work and your new charger refuses to! And I have sucessfully charged many batteries that the B&D refuses the charge, and other smart chargers like the Schmachers do not have this problem.

Oh, the plastic clamps tend to break at least, they have on the 3 of these chargers I have personal experience with!

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These vector "smart" units are useless. I've had one for 3 yrs now and not ONCE has it charged a battery. I took the initial unit back since all it did was give me "fault errors". Got the new unit, went to use it a month later, same fault error "F03 Open Cell" telling me the battery needed replaced. I have tried to use this garbage unit on at least TEN separate occasions the past couple of years....F03 fault errors every time! Funny thing is, my buddies old "not smart" Schumacher charged the batteries right up. Reading some reviews, i noticed someone figured out these units wont charge a battery if it is under 4 volts. WTH? A battery charger that wont charge dead batteries??? Save yourself the headache, avoid this company at all costs..

Read Best Reviews of Vector VEC1087C 2/6/10Amp Automatic 12 Volt Smart Battery Charger Here

In my (current) remote location, a WORKING battery charger is a good device to have.

This space-filler does nothing other than

a) Display "000" (or perhaps "OOO")

or

b) Display the "race track" LED circuit. Fun for 5-10 seconds.

The buttons, other than the "Off"/"Power"/"On"/etc. (I'd have to go outside to confirm that syntax) are "dead".

It does not display the battery voltage on a fully-charged and operational "pila" in my Z71.

Does not do anything with regard to the charge rate button. It's not as if this has a lot of moving parts and perhaps the flyball controller is busted!

I am unable to throw it far enough ...

My Call: "POS"!

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I got this for my brother as a birthday gift, I have one and Amazon is the easiest way (also cheapest)to shop, buy and ship it. This charger works great and meets all your needs, I would buy another again in a heart beat! Hal

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Husky 87247 4500 lbs. Brute Power Jack

Husky 87247 4500 lbs. Brute Power JackInitially impressed but jack failed after three trips and seven months. Jack was never exposed to weather and is only lifting 300 lbs of tongue weight. Seems to be the switch as power gets to it but not out.

All would be fine if Husky honored their one-year warranty but they do not respond to fax, email, or phone. Yes their phone is answered by a machine. Their listed "authorized" dealers do not service the jack.

I may be in luck as I may have found a replacement switch to try. Hopefully that $20.00 won't be good money after bad.

Update: Found out Husky Tow is one of many names used by Coast Distribution System, Inc., Morgan Hill, CA. I have talked to their representatives but so far they will not repair, replace, or refund the jack.

Some of their other names: Arcon Electrical, DTS, Faulkner Furniture, Duraflex, Dock-Rite, Mac Boating. Most list the same Wilsonville, OR, address.

Edit: I wrote the CEO of Coast and had a new jack a week later. This is quiet, smooth, and strong jack, so I've revised my rating

I installed this unit tonight. It took about an hour and required very little work. The hour included securing the tongue with jack stands and floor jacks for stability. This unit seems very heavy duty and simple to operate. I have read good and BAD reviews on almost every brand of electric tongue jack. I spoke with my local dealer and decided to give Husky a try. I am certain I voided my warranty with the installation because I had cut the back side of the base plate to fit against the battery tray but it shouldn't weaken the plate. The motor IS a little slow but flipping a lever verses cranking...I can wait a minute longer. I'll update my review after our first trip.

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This jack is very powerful. The Atwood jack that this replaced bogged down and took forever to lift my trailer when it was loaded. This thing is a beast and doesn't even sound like it has any load at all on it. The only downside is the weak lights. My Atwood light had a bright light that lit my combination lock on the trailer tongue but the three lights barely glow and don't light anything.

Read Best Reviews of Husky 87247 4500 lbs. Brute Power Jack Here

I had one of these jacks on a travel trailer and I really liked it. I replaced the jack on my present trailer with one of these jacks and it works really well.

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This is a must have if you have a heavy trailer, or a weight distribution hitch that requires you to lift the back of your vehicle up to hitch. This one will do the job. It is very quiet. Seller shipped and I recieved quickly.

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Thursday, September 12, 2013

200 amp 10 gauge No Tangle Battery Booster cables 12 feet with FREE travel case Jumper Cables Extra

200 amp 10 gauge No Tangle Battery Booster cables 12 feet with FREE travel case Jumper Cables Extra long 12ftNot long after buying these I had to use them to jump my sons car. They worked fine. Even though they are one of the cheaper sets on here the quality seems pretty good.

Ok lets be honest if it jumps cars effectively then the product is a winner... and this does. What helps this stand out from the crowd is the 12 foot reach. The build quality feels good and the product works... and I can jump cars even when I cannot pull right up next to them due to immovable obstacles.

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Of course I mean hot LITERALLY, the cables are too small and they heat up like crazy when used. Get a bigger gauge wire.

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12-ft isn't LOOONG..Think about it. A car's length (including side-mirrors) would be about 6ft to 7ft. One needs to have the 'helper' car parked next to ''needed' car. Otherwise, this cable length is useless. No problem with the quality. It's just that, since you do not buy this often (like groceries), buy a longer one (20ft is better)

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I bought these to put in my car. I wanted a nice set that didn't take up much room. This comes in a case that you can zipper up.

Garmin Dakota 20 Waterproof Hiking GPS

Garmin Dakota 20 Waterproof Hiking GPS
  • 2.6-inch LCD display
  • High-sensitivity GPS with HotFix satellite prediction, Sunlight-readable
  • Built to withstand the elements: bumps, dust, dirt and water
  • Preloaded with a worldwide basemap plus has 850 MB of free internal memory for map transfers
  • Includes 3-axis tilt-compensated electronic compass, barometric altimeter, microSD slot, and wireless sharing between units

After losing a Garmin etrex vista hCX which I loved, I decided to go with the Dakota 20 (D20). I will be comparing the two in the review.

Maps and Storage:

The D20 comes loaded with a basemap, which has most major highways, but no streets. So for your purpose, you can choose City Navigator (required for auto navigation to work), or Topo 2008 (shows mountain countours & most lakes). Luckily, I had both Topo and City Nav on my computer.

Since the D20 comes with 850mb of internal memory, it's enough for self selected regions in Topo 2008 and/or Inland Lakes map, but not for City Nav. I put in a 4gb microSDHC card, which handled the 1.2gb .IMG file of the city navigator map. What might trouble some is that the D20 does not come with Mapsource(a great program for making custom maps, and upload trails and routes) or any kind of software. The hCX comes bundled with Mapsource. Although if you purchase the City Navigator, it comes with Mapsource.

When combining multiple maps onto the device, the D20 is much more convenient as you simply add the .IMG files (must have different file names) into the Garmin folder. D20 will automatically detect the maps and enable them. In the hCX, you had to merge all of the .IMG files into one or use seperate microSD cards, which was a toll. The D20 stores the saved tracks individually as .GPX files, whereas the hcx clumps all the trails into one file(named by date).

Auto Navigation:

I didn't find much info about Auto Navigation for the D20 before purchased, so I wasn't sure what to expect. After trying it a few times, it's definitely a step up from the hCX. There's an Automobile mode for navigation, where the map is tilted so you can see the turn coming from farther ahead. The directions text is noticeably smaller on the D20, which might be hard for some to read, but luckily you can adjust the text size of the directions. You can also customize what information you want to see (i.e-distance to destination, odometer, etc.). The D20 gives almost the same beep as the hCX when turns are approaching(no voice of course). The D20 navigation overall is more pleasing to the eye.

Battery Life:

The hCX wins on battery life 25 hrs vs 20 hours on the D20. There is a battery save mode on the D20 that definitely improves battery life. How it works is the screen will turn off in about 15 idle seconds to save power, and you simply touch the screen to see again. On D20's regular battery mode, I noticed the battery drains very quickly -definitely less than 20 hours. Recharcheable NiMH AA batteries are a must since you'll be going through them quickly. I use Sanyo Eneloop and Rayovac Hybrid. Be sure to change the Battery type under Setup>System to get the correct battery meter.

Visibility:

This has been the biggest complain by some, but I found the visibility/brightness on the D20 to be suitable for most types of lighting, including in the sun and in the dark. You can adjust the backlight (although brighter means less battery life). I'll admit it can be harder to see in certain angles of sunlight, but this hasn't been a problem during auto nav or regular use. The hCX is slightly brighter, but it's not a significant difference.

Accuracy:

During initial use, the satelites weren't detected on the D20. I had to walk outside before the Satelites could lock on. The D20 has three modes for Satellite: Normal, WAAS, and Demo. I've had the most accurate luck with WAAS as i'm assuming it's using the new satelite technology. On the D20 i've gotten accuracy as close as 10 ft, whereas on the hCX 20ft was usually the closest it would ever get. In general though, the satelite signal on the D20 is about the same as the hCX.

GPS Interface:

This is where the D20 far outshines the hCX. You navigate through all of the menus by touch. This is such a relief from using hCX's mini joystick and side buttons. What's nice about the D20 is you can move the map around by sliding your finger on it, whereas on the hCX joystick you have to sluggishly go at an angle. The D20 works much faster in operation. For example, it refreshes the maps considerably faster than the hCX. This equals less headaches when trying to pinpoint a location.

The layout on the D20 is very straight forward. The main menu contains all of the icons (Map, Where to, Track Manager, Setup, etc.) and you can scroll through all of the features by the arrows on the bottom corners. The hCX has a higher learning curve as you have to manipulate multiple buttons to get somewhere.

GPS Use:

I use the D20 for fitness activities: kayaking, jogging, cycling, and hiking. I can easily plot my map with distance and tracks(breadcrumb trails) onto websites that map .GPX files(Mapmyfitness, Motionbased). I use it too, of course, for auto navigation. The hCX is capable of doing all these things as well, but its not nearly as modern and simple as the D20. Resetting the track took me a few minutes to figure out, but it's simply Setup>Reset>Reset Trip Data. You have to use this command right before you go jogging, biking, rowing, etc. -otherwise your new track will mix in with the prior/current track. It'd be nice to have shortcuts on the D20, but no biggie.

Profiles and Customizing:

A nice feature on the D20 is the ability to create profiles. I have a profile for driving, and one for exercising. It keeps the settings and maps you want selected automatically saved into the profile (i.eCity Nav for auto, Topo for exercising). You can also rearrange or get rid of buttons in the main menu, specifically for each profile. This is extremely useful in having all the features you need in one or two screens. With the hCX, you can customize the features, although it is not nearly as simple to rearrange as the D20. The hCX does not have profiles.

Overall:

While it was quite unfortunate I dropped the hCX in the lake, the D20 has proven to be a suitable upgrade and replacement. The D20 and hCX both have their strengths and weaknesses, but i'm definitely enjoying the experience of the user friendly D20. I have yet to determine it's true ruggedness, but will post updates if anything else should be mentioned.

Buy Garmin Dakota 20 Waterproof Hiking GPS Now

I recently decided to start spending some time geocaching with my son. I finally settled on either the Geomate, Jr., the Garmin Dakota, Garmin Oregon or DeLorme PN-40. I asked questions at forums, looked at on-line reviews, checked out the ones I could find in stores (Oregon and PN-20) and finally decided on either the Dakota 10 (a great price on a bundle was the big attraction at the time) or the Oregon 300. The Geomate got great reviews and the most reasonably priced of the group, but it's only good for one thing, geocaching, tho it does it well. The PN-40 also got pretty good reviews, but the screen is smaller than the Oregon's, the computer software is in addition to the device purchase and an annual subscription (at a very fair price tho) is needed for all the available advertised map features. It's also a device with a pretty steep learning curve, especially on the trip planning side. That left the Dakota and Oregon. My two concerns on the Dakota 10 was lack of an SD slot, and a lower resolution screen than the Oregon. But for $100 savings I took a gamble and ordered the Dakota geocache and hike bundle. Turns out my worries were all for naught.

This little navigator has been a pleasant surprise. Dead simple to use, the menus made sense right out of the box, screen sensitively is excellent, even text-entry on the touch-screen is surprisingly easy and accurate. The bundle included the 100K US maps on DVD, which while very good were not as detailed as I had hoped. Not to worry. FREE user-contributed maps are available and many are very good to absolutely excellent. The Florida 24K topo I found at GPSFileDepot was in the latter category. Bathyspheric data, roads, trails, poi's, extended text descriptions of land features like springs, waterways, landmarks, historical features. All I could ask for, no added charge. No other manufacturer has a following creating compatible maps like Garmin's. And a recent Garmin application update has even added the ability to easily import and use raster maps(ie, paper maps, attractions maps, etc) in your Dakota. I'm actually working on adding an early 1900's Central Florida railroad map that I can overlay on my 24K topo for searching out old railway junctions and stations. With any luck I might dig up a little Florida history.

Here's the best part, and something I didn't know about in advance. Garmin's "Profiles" is a powerful menu feature. Out of the box, the menus are customized/organized for specific uses like Geocaching, Recreational, Marine and Automotive. I modified my Automotive to use Garmin's City Navigator (2009) map, Florida section only, with my 24K topographic maps disabled. I moved "Active Route" and "Route Planner" to the first page and customized the data I wanted displayed on my trip computer and compass pages, then saved it. Now when I tap Change Profile>Automotive, all my settings are ready to go. I customized Geocaching in the same manner, disabling road maps and enabling topo's, even disabling "ground cover" display so the map screen is even easier to see. What other device other than Garmin's Oregon series is this easy to use and set-up for your specific needs? Nothing that I've seen.

My only complaint, and it's not even a serious issue, is screen readability. It seems all the newer high-resolution handheld screens suffer screen legibilty issues compared to the older devices like the tried-and-true 60CSx. So far no one has come up with a solution. The Dakota is certainly more readable than the Oregon, even tho the backlight is not as strong. I haven't yet found a lighting condition that rendered the screen unreadable, unlike the Oregon I looked at side by side with it. Even the Oregon only needed to be turned a bit to see in light shade, a problematic light. Even when used tie-wrapped to my bike I never found the Dakota completely unreadable. But as mentioned by others, there's room for improvement. For now it's just a necessary trade-off for the better graphics and detail and easier use on these new off-road devices.

My concern on the lack of additional SD storage for maps was unwarranted. Loading the 24K map for the entire State of Florida, routable City Navigator road maps for all of Florida, 100K topos for Georgia and Alabama and a hundred or so geocache locations with details (gpx files) took less than 300MB of the available 850MB+ of on board storage. I don't think I'm going to run out of space for hundred's more geocache locations, waypoints, routes or even additional maps if needed. The Dakota 10 also lacks the tri-axial compass and barometric altimeter of the Dakota 20 (and Oregons), but I can't see any situations where I would need those. The compass on the Dakota 10 is fine for almost all my uses and I have no need for the altimeter anyway, especially in Florida.

So all in all, I really have only a single complaint. Screen brightness in certain specific lighting conditions could be improved. But in MOST sun and shade conditions it's not any problem whatsoever. My 14 year old son used it all day yesterday as both a highway navigator, calling out turns to me to an EarthCache, and a geocaching device once we got there with not a single complaint. Why is that important? He's never used a handheld before. I only pointed out the "Profiles" feature and a one-minute tutorial on getting to and reading the road map screen. The rest he figured out on his own. That's how simple it is to use. I honestly can't think of anything I missed out on by passing up the Delorme PN-40 or even Garmin's Oregon.

I recommend the Dakota highly.

Read Best Reviews of Garmin Dakota 20 Waterproof Hiking GPS Here

EDIT / New Information August 18. 2012 (read addition).

GREAT FOR:

Any type of tracking or traveling (including motorcycles, bicycles) where you want the security of an accurate, reliable and highly water resistant GPS unit. Always ready to work thanks to the vast availability of AA-batteries, and a good range of quality maps (TOPO, Street etc.).

HIGHLIGHTS:

Easy-to-use and reliable touchscreen (even for big fingers/hands).

Good "Classic" color LCD screen (Can be watched with no back-light). Many other units turns the screen off after a certain time which could be frustrating during some activities, like when hiking small tracks or motorcycling.

Uses two (2) AA-batteries. Very practical for those who travel, and the batteries can be gotten everywhere.

Waterproof/resistant. When the USB-flap is tightly shut and the unit's new or haven't been too much in the sun or in the dry, it has been quite waterproof/resistant.

Maps. Everything from small Norwegian hiking tracks, city-center maps to typical road/street maps with navigation (no sound though). Garmin has a lot of maps to choose from, and they're EXPENSIVE!

REMEMBER that you can't get those special lithium batteries that is required by other GPS units (or phones) everywhere, and sometimes you can even have problems charging them for many reasons (camping, wrong voltage, forgotten cable, dead battery...). In a bad case scenario, this could make you stranded somewhere...

After a few years of service now, my Dakota 20 is still doing it's job. Perfect for the tracking, bicycling, motorcycling (motorcycle) and other activities I have used it for. After my now long experience with Dakota 20, I still recommend it, with two notes regarding the reliability; The USB cover (flap) should be improved as it can leak in some circumstances. As I mention later in my review, I now use a bit of DuctTape to cover the USB flap. The memory-card holder also need some work (the Memory Card come loose after some travel on bumpy roads.

PREVENT POSSIBLE WATER DAMAGE

First I open the USB flap and battery lid. I remove any dirt and dust with a hot wet cloth. I don't use strong chemicals or anything with alcohol to prevent the rubber and the sealing to dry out. The mini USB on the top (backside) is covered by a flap that is not locked, or are in any other way protected from opening. The USB-flap is made of a soft material who may harden after a while, something I have witnessed the beginning of allready (because of long exposures to the sun, I guess). I simply use tape (duct tape) to cover the flap and hold it in place. The battery lid is equipped with both a rubber sealing and a lock, so here I just have to check the sealing (easy when changing batteries). This should hold the water or dust out.

New info is added to the review: Durability, road maps and a few overall comments.

THE SIZE/SCREEN

It uses AA-batteries, meaning the batteries can be replaced wherever you travel to, for the most part. AA-batteries are pretty standard (BIG Plus).

It has a smaller screen than it's big brother Oregon (and others), and the resolution is not the best. When that is said, if you want a better, it most often use more battery power (duration), or it can't be used in daylight without turning the back-light on. The screen also shows all/most of what you need to know I have big hands, and often use gloves when hiking this time at year (December). I have mostly no problems with using the touch screen, mostly because of the big buttons. Even small buttons, when typing addresses etc, aren't smaller than what I'm used to from mobile phones etc. No big problem.

Yes, compared to a mobile phone with the same screen size, this unit could look worse. But is that really a problem?? It's more than good enough to view maps, and everything else that matters, and the colors are good. Actually, I think it's a good idea! This screen requires less battery power, and make it last longer.

One small useful possibility if you are low on batteries; The screen can be watched without the backlit on, but quite weak, of course (I often use it like this).

RELIABILITY

My unite is very rugged. A lot of soft-grip plastic all around, and the screen it self, sits a little lower in front. Nice if you should drop it, would be hard to hit the screen first unless if there was rocks ot other things in the way. Also, the unit is built tightly. The battery lid and the mini-usb flap sits tightly.

GPS-SENSITIVITY/CONNECTION

I must admit that older Garmin models (don't remember their name) was a bit more sensitive. But I have had no problems so far. It locks quite fast to the satellites, and I use EGNOS (for Europe), not WAAS that Americans use. Also no problems in heavy forest or around "tall" buildings (not much of them here in Oslo :) )

WATERPROOF

It says it's waterproof down to one meter. Since I often hike in pretty bad weather, I wanted to test this. After I bought it I turned it on, made sure that everything was fitted tightly, and put it in a bucket of water for 20 minutes. Not a bubble came out of it. Later on, after hikes, I wash the unit in the sink, getting rid of any gravel and dust, and finish with wiping the screen with a quality cloth.

COLD WEATHER

I was a little concerned when it came to a touch screen and cold weather. So far it hasn't been a problem. On one hike the temperature was minus -22 degrees Celcius (about -7.6 Fahrenheit), but since it was windy effective temperature propably was around -25 Celcius (-13 Fahrenheit). It can be A LOT colder her in Norway, but this is was the temperature I tested it in (using gloves). No problems. Just removed some ice and fog from the screen and it was ready to go. BTW, I was carrying it on my backpack, so it hadn't been in an warm environment before I used it. But,I guess there is a limit to what a touchscreen and the LCD technology can handle, so take that into account.

MAPS

One thing is for sure; Garmin/Navteq maps are expensive! It comes with a basemap, but isn't that useful for almost anything. Luckily, you can get free and legal maps from the web (often based on OpenStreetMaps, and others, incuding Topo-maps), making it quite good for most people. On the other hand, some of the Garmin maps are just fantastic! Here in Norway, there are maps called TOPO Premium-series. For the Oslo region (Norway is split in A LOT of regions), it's in 1:20000, extremely detailed, and can be routed (small hiking tracks for example). Fantastic. Here it cost about $260 US for this single map...

MENUS

Easy to use, and you can set different profile-menus for different types of tasks, like hiking, geocaching, boating, training etc.

TRAINING

Dakota 20 can receive signals from supported puls belts and cadens (cycle) sensors. This works well and can in many situations replace a typical pulse/training watch. Everything (puls and its percentage) can be uploaded to Garmin Connect. Nice feature.

COMPARED WITH OREGON 550t

I compared this unit (the Dakota 20) with the big brother Oregon 550t. The Oregon had a bigger screen, a camera and pre-installed TOPO-maps of Norway (but not the "good"/high quality TOPO-maps I wanted). Also, on paper it had about 4 hours less battery life. Even though the sceen was bigger, I found that the Dakota 20 was easier to read in direct sunlight (seems to be a problem withe the Oregon-series). So, all-in-all, I chose the Dakota because of the better screen (not bigger), much longer battery life, and that it was smaller (not taking to much space), and it was easy to use even with my big hands. Since I had to buy maps that fitted my needs (better ones than fitted on the Oregon, the price became almost the same. I didn't need the camere on the Oregon since I almost always bring a better camera on hikes (I just record the position).

BATTERY LIFE

Great! This unit uses AA batteries (two). Extremely practical since you can get them pretty much anywhere. It runs on alkalines, NiMH rechargeables and lithium AA batteries. My 2800 NiMH has made it last around 21 hours. This is important if you are planning longer trips. I would never have chosen a GPS that only worked on special lithium batteries. Please read my extra added comment regarding NiMH battery chargers so you can get the best performance out of them.

Ok, that was all I could think of when reviewing this little GPS unit. Hope it was useful.

EDIT:

When I mentioned that I had/have gotten 21 hours out of it from two 2700 mAh batteries, I forgot to mention that was in power-save use. Short backlight time, low backlight settings, compass off, often used without the backlight on at all. If I use the unit with high backlight on, for longer time, the battery life is much lower.

EDIT 18. August 2012

I still have it and use it often, sometimes several times a week. Just wanted to add a few more details:

One year ago, I used it on a month-long motorcycle trip to Poland (from Norway). It was placed on top of my gas tank-bag with a cargo strap, meaning it was open for wind, rain and dust at highway speeds (and some). On the way to Poland it experienced very strong rain showers where I constantly had to wipe the screen covered with water. No problems at all. But later, after several days of riding on dusty and bad roads, I found a problem. The USB flap on the back (there is no lock) got loose from the vibrations (just as many bike parts :) ) and dust and water entered into the USB port. I don't know if this has damaged anything. Everything works fine. After that I realized I had to clean the flap of dust to keep water out. Another thing is the quality of this flap. It's made of soft rubber. It has become a little bit harder then it used to be, and don't close as well as before. I guess this is because of the direct sunlight over several days/weeks/months. A piece of tape has solved this for good, but it is a weak point. On the way back to Norway more massive rain was testing the unit, but not a drop was seen inside it. Well, there is one more thing; the memory card holder inside (behind the batteries) don't hold the memory card very well. The card managed to get loose a couple of times when the vibrations was really bad.

I guess that most people won't use this GPS unit the way I have used it (like on top of a motorcycle), making it less likely to experience the problems I had. But the rubber USB-flap is probably a long term weakness as far as I can see (if used in hot environments). But not a big thing.

All in all, I am amazed how much abuse this thing can take without being damaged. Strong cold, heavy showers in highway speeds, strong vibrations, and direct sunlight over long periods. And it is a touch screen... Yes, the screen has gotten a few small scratches (the unit a few dents), but it still works fine. Just a tiny footnote on the screen during winter: last winter the LCD froze (showing "nonsense") when I had left the unit outside in the snow for a while (I guess -25 Celsius). I may have damaged something (?), but after I warmed it up a bit it worked fine, and still does.

THE ROAD MAPS

On my vacation to Poland (through Sweden and Germany) I really got to test the road maps. Visually, they are not as good as "real" car GPS-units. But I guess that is a given because of the screen size and resolution. But again, it worked fine. I found that I didn't need the fancy graphics. As long as you set a good zoom level (important), it will show everything you need in a nice and clear way (remember that I was riding my motorcycle in the rain while using it, with motorcycle gloves). Nice big arrows showing where to turn, and of cource durations. Another good thing about it was (I have mentioned it before) that you don't have to turn the backlight on while using it in daylight, saving a lot of battery. At night I had a long backlight on, which was reactivated by pressing any part of the screen. You select yourself what kind of information you want on the screen when in "driver" mode, like distance left, speed, time, and so on. The European map I used was quite accurate, only a few mistakes was done. The biggest one was made by myself. I had by mistake when I arrived Germany selected that I did not want to drive on highways, which took me on an extremely long and bumpy journey through the German back country :) The addresses/destinations is easy to enter, but maybe a little backwards. Nothing to really complain about. I have entered hundreds of addresses/locations during this trip and up to this day and it finds most of them. But I did miss the voice directions that other GPS'es has, like when I was riding for hours on a highway, and had to regularly had to check visually when the next direction was.

If you have a motorcycle, or a ordinary bike, I recommend this. It has all the important things (not the fancy things) you need, and a really solid waterproof casing. I used my gloves using it when at speed. Only typing addresses was much easier without gloves.

Just remember that these maps also cost quite a bit. Sad that Garmin maps has to be so expensive.

Want Garmin Dakota 20 Waterproof Hiking GPS Discount?

Before I even start: A lot of times when one reads a critical review they try to dismiss it; the reviewer is an idiot, just had bad luck, has an axe to grind with the company, or just likes writing negative reviews. I can assure you that this is the first seriously negative review I've ever written in my life and I've been around for a while. It actually pains me to have to slam a product so hard, but in this case I honestly feel it's justified and I seriously implore any potential buyer to think long and hard about what I write before choosing this unit.

The Garmin Dakota 20 is a great idea; it's a very small, very portable unit with a lot of features that fits easily in a backpack, jacket pocket, camera bag, purse or what have you. While the screen isn't the brightest I've ever seen, it's workable even in sunlight, and the user interface has a nice feel. The GPS receiver picks up satellites reasonably (but not amazingly) quickly. Lots of stuff for a reasonable (although not bargain) price. When I first bought it, my hopes were very high and my initial impression good.

The pre-installed basemap isn't serious enough for any real hiking; you're best to get one of the 24k or 100k topousa maps and install what you need. That being said, the map/GPS relationship isn't very accurate my home location is reported the same in terms of GPS position by the Dakota 20 and both of my Garmin automotive GPS units, but on the map the Dakota 20 reports my position approximately 1/4 mile away from where I actually am while the auto GPS units are within 15 feet. That's not good. I'd almost say that's laughably bad.

The most serious problem with the Dakota 20 is simply one of reliability. My first unit went dead as a brick within one week of ownership; it didn't even have an aggregate of 5 hours use on it. I'm technically competent and tried all the stuff on the garmin (and other) forums, to no avail. Back it went. The second unit worked when I got it, then it sat around a few weeks until I took it on vacation to test drive it. It worked fine there. Back home, still within 30 days of purchase, the unit once again is dead as a brick; power switch doesn't turn it on, and that's with fresh batteries, and once again, I might have maybe 7 total hours on the unit. Went back through all the steps, googled all the Dakota 20 problems in the forums, all of that once again, to no avail.

Bottom line is simply this: the unit is crap having two units turn into non functional bricks within the span of two months is unacceptable one I might understand, but two I can not tolerate and I'm far from the only person who has had one die. It is, without question, the worst single piece of consumer electronics I've experienced in my 49 years on the planet, and this is coming from someone who rarely returns equipment or has issues with electronics in general I am far from the usual complainer-on-the-forums kind of guy who hates everything. It is supremely frustrating, because I so *want* to like this unit; but there is no way I can. Two bricks plus pathetic map accuracy a happy customer do not make.

Seriously and strongly not recommended. This unit is a disgrace to a GPS firm (Garmin) that in the past has done much better. Avoid the Dakota like the plague.

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I had previously owned and lost an eTrex Legend Cx. This is a giant leap forward. Garmin advertises this as their new entry level unit, but its 800 MB internal memory holds all of the topo and street maps for the eastern US. The inability to do street routing without first buying City Navigator® North America NT seems to be an artificial limitation.

The lock in is almost instant when I turn it back on at the same location that I turned it off, and it can pick up a signal from inside my house. I no longer lose the signal when I go under deep forest cover.

The screen is bright, and better than on my old unit. When I first got it, the compass was not functional, but once I updated the unit online, it worked great.

I wholeheartedly recommend this unit.