O2 12V Bike and Car socket connector

Charging through the accessory socket, if you have it, is the easiest way to charge the battery on the 1999 BMW R1100S. This connector fits perfectly if you remove the red adaptor. Fit and finish are good on both the ends and the cable.

I had no issues with this adapter and in fact, I like the way it fits on my BMW power outlets better than the original one that came with my BMW charger. Quality item.

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Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 2002 Toyota Avalon With Do-It-Yourself Programming

I received this remote in very good condition and the price was much better than other offers. I replaced the battery for good measure. After searching the internet for the proper programming procedure, I found the following post which worked for this remote.

Here is some background information from the original poster who used the procedure on a 1998 Toyota Avalon:

FCC ID:HYQ1512Y

CAN: 1551 102578

RSS-210

DENSO

Detailed Procedure:

1. Open driver's door.

2. Insert and remove key from ignition.

3. Lock and unlock power door locks 5 times.

4. Close driver's door and reopen it.

5. Lock and unlock power door locks 5 times.

6. Insert key and turn it on and off 2 times without cranking the engine, then pull the key out.

The locks should lock and unlock automatically, one time.

7. Press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time.

8. Press the lock button once.

The locks should lock and unlock automatically, one time.

If the locks lock and unlock twice, it didn't work. Repeat steps 7 and 8.

If you wait too long between steps, you need to start over.

If you are programming more than one remote, just repeat steps 7 and 8 immediately after you finish steps 7 and 8 with the first remote. This way, they both obtain the same code.

This product is exactly what it was supposed to be. A keyless fob for a 2002 Toyota Avalon. The trouble came in trying to program it. The instructions did not work. I even had a locksmith try to no avail. When I called a Toyota dealer he told me there were four different ways to program this remote depending on when the car was built and that it would cost $60. That was all I needed. I kept looking on the internet to find and try alternate programing methods until I found one that worked. Turns out the programing from a 2000 2001 model year worked for this 2002 Avalon. So have patience if the programing does not work for you at first. Keep looking, you will find what works.

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The clicker will not work. We tried the directions sent to us many times without luck. I took the clicker by Toyota to get it reprogramed. No luck. They put it into their computer and it is the wrong one. It looks like it, they said, but it is the wrong one, I think it has to do the trunk part. Our clicker doesn't look like that. Wish it had worked. Have to send back.

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Garmin Nuvi 850 855 860 880 885T Cradle Replacement

• Original Cradle that shipped with your Garmin nuvi 800 Series GPS
• This is only the cradle
• Cradle includes a Garmin G-Ball connection on the back
• Cradle works with entire Garmin nuvi 800 range

As stated, brand new and perfect replacement. Arrived very qucikly, packed very well and as promised, on first projected date. Highly recommend AMAZON.COM as your PUCHASING PARTNER...

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I bought the GPS and originally had it on a cycle. Unfortunately the connector into this mounting unit, if bumped to much, would come loose on the inside. Hence forth the unit has been moved to my car where the liine into the unit will not be bumped on the side. Seems to work just fine. No problems.

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It cradles my 850 like a baby. Nice to find a replacement that is just like the original and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

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I ordered this to replace the one that broke.....socket pulled out.....it works great. I'd recommend this to anyone to replace their cradle if it breaks.

Just like the one that came in original package. I thought the price was too high but could not find another on internet. I needed it shipped super fast and works great.

Stinger 4 Gauge Shoc-Krome Barrier Fork Spades ( 2 Pair )

• Accepts direct connection of 4 gauge power wires
• Corrosion Resistant - High Power Delivery
• #10 Opening Size
• Very heavy duty. Can be used for audio, marine and any underhood wiring.
• 2 red and 2 black protective terminal covers

Perfect fit on my amps terminals. Better than plugging the power and ground cables directly to the amp. Opening #10 means that the spades will fit into a 10mm space in the amp.

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Schrader SCH-BRK-4PC TPMS Retrofit Kit For Passenger Car and Light Truck (Wireless-Battery Operated

a good production,i like it ,it is help to me ,but production data is too old.it was product in 2011.

I have 3 sets of these on 3 different sets wheels (for 2 cars), and it's good stuff. Easy to set up, and gives you accurate readings. I highly recommend this!

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The product is not perfectly fit onto the 17 inches rim. Easy to program. When I reached the speed at 65mph, the steeling wheel starts to vibrate.

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Bought several sets, a set of the production is the empty box, and 2 sets of production date is 2011.I do not think it was an accident, this is business integrity.

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This is a very good TMPS, he offers effective protection for our safety, when a tire failure, he will be timely to remind us, and more reliable than the general product, is very worthy of a product.

Vector VEC1087C 2/6/10Amp Automatic 12 Volt Smart Battery Charger

This unit replaced a simple but effective charger. Wish I could go back. Often refuses to "engage" because battery voltage is termed "too low to charge". (Jump start of engine is thus req'd to get recharge going) Display is too dim to view in any daylight condition. Controls and error messages are not intuitive, requiring frequent reference to manual. Despite revered brand name, surely there's something better out there.

Almost useless. The B&D Vectors, as many have pointed out, will not charge a dead battery. So you need an old fashioned charger to precharge it before using the B&D. They claim this is to keep you from trying to charge damaged batteries, but this explanation is scant confort on a cold morning when all you want to do is get your car started and get to work and your new charger refuses to! And I have sucessfully charged many batteries that the B&D refuses the charge, and other smart chargers like the Schmachers do not have this problem.

Oh, the plastic clamps tend to break at least, they have on the 3 of these chargers I have personal experience with!

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These vector "smart" units are useless. I've had one for 3 yrs now and not ONCE has it charged a battery. I took the initial unit back since all it did was give me "fault errors". Got the new unit, went to use it a month later, same fault error "F03 Open Cell" telling me the battery needed replaced. I have tried to use this garbage unit on at least TEN separate occasions the past couple of years....F03 fault errors every time! Funny thing is, my buddies old "not smart" Schumacher charged the batteries right up. Reading some reviews, i noticed someone figured out these units wont charge a battery if it is under 4 volts. WTH? A battery charger that wont charge dead batteries??? Save yourself the headache, avoid this company at all costs..

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In my (current) remote location, a WORKING battery charger is a good device to have.

This space-filler does nothing other than

a) Display "000" (or perhaps "OOO")

or

b) Display the "race track" LED circuit. Fun for 5-10 seconds.

The buttons, other than the "Off"/"Power"/"On"/etc. (I'd have to go outside to confirm that syntax) are "dead".

It does not display the battery voltage on a fully-charged and operational "pila" in my Z71.

Does not do anything with regard to the charge rate button. It's not as if this has a lot of moving parts and perhaps the flyball controller is busted!

I am unable to throw it far enough ...

My Call: "POS"!

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I got this for my brother as a birthday gift, I have one and Amazon is the easiest way (also cheapest)to shop, buy and ship it. This charger works great and meets all your needs, I would buy another again in a heart beat! Hal

Waterproof Car Rear Vehicle Backup View Camera High-definition Cmos 170 Degree Viewing Angle E363

For the money you have to give it 5 stars. I have read all of the other reviews and would say that it is always possible to get a defective part these days. Always buy from Amazon and you can easily return it for a refund or exchange. No, I do not work for Amazon, as I am a retired Engineering Professor. The installation is simple and if you have the right tools it should take less than 2 hours to completely install. If you are not familiar with working on cars, then hire a professional installer to do it. Make sure that your video unit is equipped with either the video backup trigger for backup camera installation or separate video input. If you don't want to install it under the trunk lip and want to install it on a surface mount then all you need to do is remove the screws from the mount and rotate it 180 degrees.

OK back to the camera and installation on my 2010 Mercedes S400. I had purchased a kit from MidCity Electronics to give me the video feed to my LCD OEM screen. That took only about 30 minutes to install. The camera took longer because I had to remove the interior trim from the trunk to remove the plastic piece under the trunk lid. I drilled a hole for the camera head to fit through the plastic and then mounted the camera using hot glue. This is hidden on the back side of the plastic piece and will allow for easy removal if I need to install another camera. The powder feed was gotten from the rear of the car using a fused 5 amp/12 volt position on the circuit breaker. Because the electronics from the Mercedes automatically senses that there is a rear camera installed, I did not need the backup light voltage to trigger the camera. This feature is handy because the Video In Motion from MidCity can be triggered while driving to see behind your car. Running the video wire to the front took about 20 minutes to remove door sill plate trim and get wire fed through to front connection behind the video unit. Once done and tested (Yes, please test before you put everything back together to help you save time if something does not work right), it will take you about an hour or less to put all the trim pieces back on and make a final adjustment to the angle of the camera. It is very handy to have the adjustment screws visible under the trunk lip for this reason. I adjusted the camera angle downward so that I could just see the edge of my bumper. The rear image is not distorted and I am very pleased with the results. Once satisfied, use the hot glue to put a very small dab of glue onto the screw head to keep it from getting loose or use some lock-tite on the treads.

I would have liked to have the option of removing the backup grid overlay because it does not match up properly with the Mercedes self-imposed lines. However, the camera option with the MC unit was >$200, so for the money, I can live with the lines until this camera needs replaced.

An additional tip is to use a 9 volt battery to test your video camera before you install it. The 9 volts is sufficient to power the camera and you can attach the leads with a small bit of tape. You can use the video out to your TV or any monitor that allows for the RCA video input. I used the small video monitor sold by Amazon for ~$20 to preview my installation before I started. It also allowed me to compare two different cameras with the same lighting to make my choice of the better one. Hope this helps.

Have a 'home grown' setup I created for my RV using a camera and touchscreen monitor... for both backup/reverse cam and computer. Recently my camera died and I needed to find a replacement. Gave this one a whirl and I am not disappointed I did. First surprise is the size... this thing is really small! Very compact and seems like outstanding quality. Was plug and play with both video (RCA) and power from my previous camera. When looking for placement, I discovered I could slide under the left rear light console (lights/brakes) and use the mounting screw for the lights to attach the camera. only extra work needed was reversing the clamp on the camera to get the wire out of the way (ie. undo the two philips screws and move the wire to inside vs outside the bracket). Once hooked up it worked like a champ. Amazing field of view (my old cam was about 90 deg), great color and brightness (despite 35' cable) and excellent image. The permanent guide lines work great for me. I have no clue why RVrs would pay for larger/more expensive systems when this is out there... very impressed & highly recommended.

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I was a little skeptical of the low price of this camera as I have had many poor quality cmos cameras before (I actually ordered a 80 dollar one just in case). First off the build quality is excellent, strong materials and decent quality wire. I then took it to my TV and hooked it up to see the image quality. I was more than shocked to see a very clear picture with good color. Low light images are not that great but I think the reverse lights on the car will illuminate the surrounding areas sufficiently to get a decent picture. Instructions are poor (not that you need them if you are familiar with vehicle wiring), might as well just throw them out, that is how useless they are.

All in all I'm happy I took the chance on this cheap camera.

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I finally got around to installing and fixing my grounding issue with this camera. For some reason, the metal earth ground is just not enough for this little camera. I tested the metal ground with my ohm meter and voltage meter, and everything seemed fine, but the camera would not work that well if at all. Tried a spare power supply for a CCTV camera (9VDC) and it worked beautifully. Even tried using a self-tapping screw on some bare metal, and still not enough. Finally had to tie into the ground on the trailer wiring harness. Everything is nice and bright. At night, it works, but not too well. When you get close enough to an object, then your back up lights will in fact light it up enough for the camera to see.

The built in color lines will hopefully prove useful once I get used to their location and what they represent.

Update: At some point in time, about 6 months ago, my camera got a lot of condensation in it. This made the back up image extremely blurry and impossible to see. For several months this continued. I should have emailed the company. When I finally got around to emailing, I realized it had been more than a year since I purchased this device and figured it was a moot point. About 2 weeks ago after some warm weather, the camera cleared up completely. It is once again usable, and now I love it again. Hopefully before it rains again I will try and find a "leak" in my otherwise weatherproof camera. For this reason, I have dropped my review from 5 stars to 4 stars, as I don't believe the camera I received is truly waterproof.

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The camera is pretty well made. The entire housing is made from solid metal and it has a certain "weight" to it that makes it feel high quality.

The video image is very good in well lit situations but the color fads out when it is dark. With the back-up light of the car illuminating, though, it's not a big problem.

There are some "distance lines" in the camera that cannot be turned off. I don't find it particularly useful but it doesn't hurt to have.

As noted in other reviews, the camera comes ready to be mounted in a hanging position. to top-mount it (have it sit on a top surface), the bracket need to be taken off from the housing and rotated 180 degrees. Not a huge problem.

The problem is the depth of the camera (distance from the lens to the back) makes it hard to hide under the narrow overhang of the license plate area. Furthermore the cable comes directly out from the back, taking up additional space. This make it susceptible to rain water getting on the lens. Overall from the lens surface to the back (including the extra space taken by the bracket) is 1.75 inch.

Overall I would say between 3-4 stars. The Video is good, but getting it mounted property is difficult.

StreetWires GT14 Ground Terminal 4 AWG

• Ultra-secure, low-resistance grounding
• Precision machined from forged brass
• Two step termination
• Accepts 4 AWG cable

I used 3 self tapping screws to bolt this down in my cargo area and it made a perfect ground. I ran 4GA to a ground dist block (3 4GA inputs, 3 8GA outputs) so I used this as my main ground point. Works well....careful with it though, it's soft metal and scratched easily......

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eForcity Car Charger Adapter for Garmin Nuvi 200 205 250 255 GPS

• Compatible With Garmin: Colorado 300/400i/400t/Dakota 10/20/Edge 500/605/705/Nuvi 1200/1250/1260T/1300/1350/1350T/1370T/1390T/1450/1450LMT/1450T/1490LMT/1490T/1690/200/200W/205/205W/2200/2250/2250LT
• Recharge on the go by harnessing power from your car with a cigarette lighter adapter.
• Smart IC chip recognizes a fully charged battery and automatically switches to a saver mode.
• Plug never heats or overcharges the battery. Short circuit protection. LED charging indication.
• Best replacement for the original car charger. Color: Black.

This adapter puts my Garmin GPS unit into the computer connect mode, so it's not suitable for its intended purpose of providing power for use. Additionally the curly cord is too short. The seller authorized a return but will not pay for shipping. Shipping would eat up the refund, so it's a loss. Stay away from this one.

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This charger does just what it should at a price that's far below the OEM cost. But the picture doesn't show how short the output cable is, only about half the length of the Garmin original. The cord is coiled, but it's quite stiff and doesn't stretch out too easily. Still, it was long enough for my small car; other users might find this too short for them. Also it's a straight plug for the receiver, while the original has a right angle one. This makes the plug stick out farther in the back. And coupled with the short cord, it puts some extra strain on the receiver power jack. I just needed to move the Garmin a little on the windshield, but again this may be a concern for some users. I docked this adapter a star because of these issues.

Other than the short cable, this is a great value. It powers and charges the receiver just like the original, and you can't beat the price. I have no idea how long it will last, but if I need to replace the charger again I'll probably come back for another of these.

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This charger will put your GPS into PC sync mode, disallowing you from actually USING your GPS while it is charging in your car. Completely useless. I don't understand why some reviewers didn't have this problem and others do there must be different units coming from different sellers.

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This charger does not work. The cords are also is far too short to use properly and safely. Don't waist your time or money!

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Works perfect for Nuvi 205 as advertised. Also was shipped on time and buying process was smooth. Saves you a few bucks.

Whistler Pro-2500W 2,500 Watt Power Inverter

The Whistler Pro 2500W easily starts up and runs a freezer and sump pump in my home that the Power Bright PW2300 just could not start. Here's my story. I originally purchased the Power Bright PW2300 for back up power to operate my sump pump and freezer in case of power outages due to hurricane Irene. In a dry run (as it were), I hooked the Power Bright up to my car battery using the recommended 4 gauge connectors and it powered up the sump pump motor ok. But it just could not get the freezer motor to turn on.

OK so the manual says that when starting a motor, start-up surge must be considered. Start-up surge is described as the extra watts the appliance requires to turn on or "start up" and that can be up to 10 times its rated watts. I felt the Power Bright PW2300 had sufficient power head room but for some reason, it would not start up the freezer motor. Based on another reviewer's comments, I returned it and bought the Whistler pro 2500 watt inverter. It was even a few dollars less than the Power Bright. The Whistler had not come up in my original search so I did not know about it until I noticed the reviewer's comments. Hooked it up and the freezer started right up no problem. Maybe the difference between "2300" and "2500" was the extra umph that I needed. I am not sure but there was no comparison. If you are trying to power household devices with motors then I recommend going with the 2500 as a minimum. As a bonus, the wattage out indicator in the Whistler works much better than the Power Bright's and the Whistler has three outlets vs two and also has a USB outlet. Good luck and make sure to get the low gauge connectors to meet your requirements otherwise you are draining power!

I own multiple food trucks and use inverters to power up my freezers. I have the Power Bright PW2300 installed in all of my trucks. The Power Bright always worked great for me and the only reason I purchased this Whistler is that I thought that I was getting a superior inverter 2500 watt instead of 2300 watts for a lower price, especially since one of the reviewers described the inverter that I was currently using as being inferior. I even found the whistler product searching for a Power Bright PW2300 on Google.

As soon as I connected the freezer to the Whistler 2500 the alarm went on, I did not try anything else since it now has no purpose for me. I am extremely disappointed with the inverter ! Not only did it not start my refrigerator (FCCG151FW)......I am able to start two of them at the same time on my other food trucks using the Power Bright PW2300

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I have used other inverters before with similar watts and this one works very nice.I am in construction and use it all the time to run my circle saw, smaller oil-less air compressor,charging up cordless tool batteries,cell phone,cameras,lap tops and running a microwave. Make sure you have heavy gauge wires going to a deep cycle battery and you wont have any problems. You can also run smaller gauge wires to the car battery which will give you more power and charge your battery back up while your driving from job to job. A very well built inverter by Whistler,you wont be disappointed!

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Whistle Pro-2500W is really good, it have power. I had been testing the Unit how it works

1) The small Stove about 1000W it work very well, the Digital Watt Meter at Unit tell the stove used 1200w

2)I connect the Microwave 1000W it draw about 1200W and working too

3) I test my Porter Cable C2005, 6-Gallon Electric 1 hp Air Compressor. Starting: 1280. I don't believe it, the Whistle Pro-2500W run like you hook-up regular AC-120 volt

Finally I try to do 2 appliances see how it work?

First, I connect my Gas Furnace to Whistle Pro-2500W, the Gas Furnace have the electric cord for made fire and Fan 1/3hp for blow the air, I look the Digital Watt Meter and it draw 1000W when it start then drop back around 800w.

Then I connect the small stove I have been try early, then I see the Digital Watt Meter, it draw more watts up to 2080W. AT this time, the Pro-2500w still working well when 2 appliances hook up, so far so good.

I'm not worry the winter come back any more.

In state Tennessee don't have much snow but have icy every time when the temperature drop above 32F and have raining.

When have weather like this, the tree falling then cut of the Power line.

REMEMBER, you must have good cable, at lease 4gauge but I think better used 2gauge cable. It will deliver enough voted to your Pro-2500w, at the battery should used screw for tie the end of cable (I was try the clam, it not work good then screw it to the battery)

When Whistle Pro tells 2500W but it never go-up that level. I have been try hook-up the small stove running about 1200W, then hook-up the Microwave I does it early. The Whistle Pro2500W it working, about 20second then fault. Even the Digital Watt Meter show above 2200W. (I used the battery 700mah)

I have the Vector 3000W, but the Unit can not run 2 appliances for the same time, even 1, (my Porter Cable C2005, 6-Gallon Electric 1 hp Air Compressor)

I give the Whistle Pro-2500W 5 star and sure it work well 100%

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I bought this inverter about a year ago for my toy hauler with the intent of being able to run a 1500w coffee maker and 700w microwave. I started off with one deep cycle battery and the Cobra 4 awg cable kit because it was listed in the "commonly bought together" section below the inverter listing.

The first time I tried to use the coffee pot the inverter kicked off with its low voltage alarm, I was disappointed the watts meter only showed 1300w's! So I thought I must not have enough battery and added a second 12v deep cycle battery. On the second try I was able to brew about 3 cycles with the coffee pot before voltage dropped to low, still disappointing.

Still thinking i did not having enough battery power I recently upgraded to 4 6v golf cart batteries and did a little homework to find out what size cables I should have to make this set up right. To my surprise I found that I needed 00 awg cables, (welding cable) to support 3000w's, 4 awg will only support about 1000w's which is right about where my inverter kept kicking off!

I put the new batteries in with the 00 cables and wow, I can run a 5 amp shop vac, a 10 amp house vac and the 700w microwave all at the same time! The watt meter showed 3000w with out any alarms. This inverter will put out a lot of power if you feed it right! I also tried only using 2 of the 4 batteries and had nearly the same results. If I had the right size cables the first time my first set of batteries would have worked great also.

I looked in the manual and at the cable guide chart recommendations, sure enough it recommended the 00 cable and a 250 amp power source for optimal performance.

Moral of the story, read the manual first!

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Powerbass ASA1000.1DX Powerbass 1000-Watt Class D Amplifier

• Power Output - 1000 watts x 1 1-ohm continuous power - 500 watts x 1 2-ohm continuous power - 250 watts x 1 4-ohm continuous power
• Maximum Output - 2000 watts 1-ohm
• 40Hz-250Hz electronic crossover - phase switch - remote gain controller
• Fully adjustable Bass EQ - 18dB Centered at 40Hz
• Subsonic Filter: Variable 15Hz-50Hz
• Power Output -1000 watts x 11-ohmcontinuous power -500 watts x 12-ohmcontinuous power -250 watts x 14-ohmcontinuous power
• Maximum Output -2000 watts1-ohm
• 40Hz-250Hz electronic crossover -phase switch -remote gain controller
• Fully adjustable Bass EQ -18dB Centered at 40Hz

Very good product! Didnt know about powerbass! But i had seen many people having their products in different competitions so i wanted to give it a try! No dissapointed at all even though i only have it pushing my 12' zt concept sub! It hits hard!!!!

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I have this amp running on 4 powerbass 10's. this amp really puts down the power. fan cooled so it always stays cool. well worth the money. would buy again.

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Had this amp for about 2 years on 2 kicket 12inch cvts, this thing was so loud its starting to rattle my truck apart. Unfortunately one day it just stopped working, no output. The light is on and everything is hooked up properly but I took it in to the professional who installed it and he tested and said it was done.

I ordered another one though because I liked it so much, where else can you get 2000w (probably actually around 1500w) for 230$? I think I got unlucky, hopefully the next one lasts longer! How long have you guys had yours for?

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had a crossfire amp and 12" sub on box and decided to invest in this amp and within a couple of days the crossfire 12" failed switched to a pioneer Ts-W390d4 12" sub and i have to say been running this combination for 6 weeks now and no complaints from me but the neighbours complain constantly

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You will not be able to find a better amp than this Epic Beast for the price! I have it powering 2 Powerbass L-104D 10" Subwoofers in a sealed box wired in parallel for an 1 ohm load and the amp barely gets warm. I've heard that it was stable down to .5 ohm (which I don't doubt)!

I would highly suggest an 170amp alternator or better for this power house. With my stock alt. my headlights dim and batt. gauge goes crazy when I push it hard. I got an 220amp alternator on the way.

Anyway, love the look of it, pounds hard, and couldn't be more pleased with it!

Macally MINICARUSB MiniCar USB Car Charger for iPhone, iPod, and More - Car Charger - Retail Packag

• Support iPhone & iPod, or any device powered by USB *
• Compact and ultra-low profile design for maximum portability
• One of the smallest USB car chargers on the market
• Compatible with all car cigarette lighter jack
• Not suitable for iPad charging
• Support iPhone & iPod, or any device powered by USB (Except iPad)
• Compact and ultra-low profile design for maximum portability
• One of the smallest USB car chargers on the market
• Compatible with all car cigarette lighter jack

I chose this product because a friend of mine had a similar product from the same company, but it was a different model. This particular Minicar charger has loose parts inside that doesnt allow me to properly charge my phone. I have to keep moving it until it starts charging and any movement from my car will make it stop charging.

I contacted the Macally company fro help and all they had to say was that it should work fine.

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Lilliput 7-inch LCD monitor with HDMI, YPbPr interface, dedicated high-definition video camera by K

I read a positive review on this monitor for use with DSLRs, and since it is priced so well, I had to try it. First of all, the company ships (at least my monitor) form Southern California, which is where I live. So I ordered the monitor on a Wednesday and it arrived the next day! I've been playing with it non stop since I got it. I think this monitor is perfect for anyone looking to expand their video production capabilities. I had a hard time keeping focus during a lot of movement/live events with the little 3" monitor on the 7d, and I've never been a viewfinder type of shooter. This 7" is the cure for that. My immediate reaction was "Marshall who?" There is virtually no reason to spend as much as $1600 on a field monitor when you can get this for $200. I messed with the settings a little to get the brightness to match the canon lcd, but I really didn't even need to do that. I am simply using this to better compose and focus shots. I'll update if I find any negative issues, but for now, I'mm still in new purchase afterglow, so it gets all 5 stars from me.

Do not make the mistake that I did by buying a separate hot shoe mount. I purchased the Marshall V-LCD-MT Monitor Adapter and it was a waste. The mount that comes with the Lilliput monitor is the EXACT same mount as the Marshall; there are no differences whatsoever. I purchased the separate mount because some of the reviews said that the mount that comes with the lilliput was no good. However, it is made out of metal, and once tightened down, it is very sturdy; no wobbles, etc. If anything, purchase the spare battery for just a couple bucks more than what the marshall mount costs.

The monitor itself is crystal clear and very easy to use/setup. It comes with a mini-HDMI to HDMI cable which allowed me to be up and running with my 7D in about 5 minutes. There is virtually no latency from what the lens of the camera sees and what you see on the monitor. If you look hard enough, there might be about a nano second of latency, but nowhere near enough to impede usage. This monitor has helped me so much in maintaining focus on my subjects. With the little LCD built into the camera, I thought I had shots in focus, only to come home and review on my computer and realize things were blurry/out of focus. This monitor definitely helps to prevent that; perfect for people like me with bad eyesight!

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The 3 inch screen on my Canon T2I is not all that big to get a clear image of what I am going to get. It helps having a bigger screen to see whats happening, especially one that can be adjusted. I don't use the stand that it came with as it is mounted to my dslr rig I have from indisystem. The addition to the rig makes it look really professional now. I haven't had any issues with it and works just fine for my needs. It came with a protective shade that snaps on and off which helps in the sun. It also came with the hdmi cable that connected just fine to my Canon T2I and works great.

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Used it twice before white screen of death. Waiting to hear from lilliput or seller about replacement. Not Good at all.

UPDATE

Viviteq replaced the faulty unit quickly and professionally very, very happy with their customer service.

Lilliput never bothered to get back to me.

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I was excited by this product, small, battery operated. And resolution and sound is great.

BUT:

It has a fantastically annoying glitch in that if your HDMI source ever changes modes or drops in or out (for example if you are connected to a computer that reboots or changes video modes/resolution), it will put a large annoying NO INPUT graphic right in the middle of the screen that will not go away even though you can see your screen perfectly right behind it.

The only way to get rid of the NO INPUT is to cycle through all your source selects on the LILLIPUT or turn the LILLIPUT off and on. Sadly, for me, this makes it unworkable since my purpose is to use it to connect quickly to HDMI devices and troubleshoot them. I spend all my time scrolling through the source select to get rid of that dialog/message that pops up for whatever unknown reason right in the middle of the screen.

Such a silly thing and useless graphic/message that only serves to get in the way.

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