Husky Liners Custom Fit Second Seat Floor Liner for Select Toyota Tundra Models (Grey)

Awesome liner!! This liner is custom fit and stays in place. If you want to same your carpet from winter, mud and dirt, these are the best way to go. Also easy to keep clean and look great.

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Husky Liners Custom Fit Second Seat Floor Liner for Select Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra Models (B

This mat fit like a glove and is great for keeping the dog hair out of the carpet and seats.

Perfect covering for back floor. When the seats are folded up the liners offer coverage over the entire floor. Easy to clean and saves my carpet from the kids and pets.

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They are everything they say, fit very well, cover the entire carpet area, don't move. Just disappointed with the material. It's a stiff plastic, rather thin. I was thinking it would be a heavy duty type rubber with flex. I picked this one over the more expensive one (only by like $10 a row) and now regret it. Oh well, they will still protect the carpet.

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This fit perfectly in a 2012 Chevy Silverado LT Crew Cab. Easy to install (we did have to trim a bit off the top per instructions). We like that this went all the way under the seats for when we stow things under the seats. Can't beat a lifetime warranty! Would definitely recommend this product!

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I have always been a Huge Fan of Husky Liners, and having the ease of Amazon just makes it better.

This product is exactly what you need to keep your kids and 'buddies' off the carpet.

If you like the look and feel of your carpet... Do not buy this, it has maximum coverage, which is what I like!

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Peak PKC0AR Car to Car 12 V DC Plug to Plug Battery Charger/Starter

My title tells you most of the story about this. It will pass some power from one car to another thru the lighter outlets, but we're talking "trickle charge" power, not "Instant starting/boost" power. If you have a good car battery but left your lights on while you went into a movie or such, this can recharge it, but will probably take 15-30 minutes (or more depending on how totally drained it is). However, if the dead car battery is bad and won't hold a charge, you don't want to wait that long, or you have other car problems (like something draining power), this won't work for you and you're better off with the old jumper cables. They say in the manual "Let it charge for 5 minutes until the green LED comes on, then disconnect it and try starting the car" followed by "If it doesn't start, let it charge another 5-10 minutes and try again", but at the under 5 amp rate I'd bet my 15-30 minutes minimum is more realistic.

Some other details if your interested, this device actually "Pumps" power where I connected it between 2 batteries and the "Good/source" battery dropped to 12.5V while the "Bad/charging" battery went up to 15V (and since I know 15V+ is "Overcharging", I pulled the plug there). Seeing the voltage go that high tells me it doesn't regulate the output power (and they even say on the box "Puts out 16-17V"), so you'd never want to use this to connect 2 batteries together and go off leaving them. I also checked the current draw and it pulled 2.7 amps while putting 1.8 amps into the other battery. My battery I tested with may not have been very drained, but still the

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Delphi SA10224 SKYFi 3 Portable XM Radio Receiver with Vehicle Kit

Ok, I feel for people with a bad unit. Mine was working for two hours then locked up. I had another one arrive a few days later from another seller, it worked great! Difference was: THE FIRMWARE! I reset the first locked up unit by pressing the Volume+ button on the side while pushing the Mode (on/off) button on the front. The firmware version is shown at the bottom of the screen at startup, my first unit was version 1.03! Version 1.19 is the latest! (16 revisions of the firmware have obviously solved numerous problems) So I went to XM's firmware update page (http://fwupdt.xmradio.com/), hooked up the supplied USB cable from my computer to my SkyFi unit, clicked on the "XM Firmware Client (R2.26} (in red) at the bottom of that page and followed the simple instructions and let it do its update magic. Presto...my first unit works great now, no lockups, just smooth operations in all features. It's a great unit, just some of these have been sitting around on a shelf somewhere for a while (from the original $199.00 price days) and just need this simple fix to straighten them out. Best XM radio value out there!

I use this device with awesome results in my vehicle. I use a cassette adapter to play it through my car stereo, rather than the built in FM modulator. I get much better results using the cassette adapter. I do not have the antenna mounted on the exterior of my vehicle. Rather, I simply lay it on a non-skid pad on my dashboard. This device has

many improvements over the Roady2, most notably the portability (you can use it like a Walkman with headphones purchased separately). The ability to record songs is great, as is the fact that the device has a slot for up to a 2 GB microdisk. (It will not accept a microdisk larger than 2GB). Basically, you can use this device as an MP3 player and as a satellite radio. I did do the firmware update on the product. This was no big deal to do the download online. It does freeze on a rare occasion. There is a reset option that fixes this--you simply press two keys simultaneously as directed in the manual. I got this product and a home and car kit free after rebate elsewhere, even as an existing XM subscriber. I've also purchased the headphones with built in antenna, and an extra car and home kit. I got those accessories for about $5 each on the Delphi site using a special code I found on Fat Wallet.

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For those of you wondering if you should purchase this XM Radio system and look to the reviews to decide, I will definitely recommend the SKYFI 3 to you. MP3 and live XM recording are both very easy to use. Most of the bad reviews mention that the radio locks up while in use. I work ten hour shifts driving circles around a small town, so I have put probably 3 to 4 hundred hours of use into my SKIFI 3 that I purchased 2 months ago. I did have the radio lock up on me twice in the first week of using the radio. I found out that it only locks up when you leave the radio on and have activated the auto shut-off timer. I disabled the auto shut-off the first week and the SKIFI 3 has not locked up since. I just last week I ordered 2 more for other members of my family.

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I would have given this five stars, because it looks really cool and works great in the car when it works, but sometimes it freezes, and other times it just doesn't work. Definitely long on features and looks, short on quality and reliability. Would I buy it again? Maybe. I would take a closer look at alternatives.

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Well, as others have mentioned, the sound is fine. But, I had no complaints about SkyFi2's sound either. And beyond that, I've had nothing but trouble since I opened this thing.

1) It's very slow to boot up.

2) It is very slow to change channels and to register the buttons you press.

3) The remote is not as useful as the SkyFi2's remote.

4) The car console doesn't have a "jump" feature like the SkyFi2's did, so you need to use the remote to do that.

5) The "enter" button only sometimes acts as an "enter" button, and the rest of the time it changes the display mode, and there's really no way to predict when it'll work correctly.

6) This one's not the unit's fault, but I made sure my new car had an auxiliary input so I can hook up the radio--but when I hook it up to the car's power and auxiliary jack at the same time, there's a loud, high-pitched feedback, and the only way to avoid that is to not plug it in. But if it's not plugged in, it obviously doesn't work. So it can't work with the auxiliary jack.

7) The FM transmitter is not very good, and I had to purchase a separate modulator to hook up directly to the FM antenna.

I honestly wish I had never upgraded, and I'm going back to the SkyFi2 as soon as I finish typing this.

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2000-2012 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009

• FREE PROGRAMMING INCLUDED!
• DISCOUNT KEYLESS GUIDE INCLUDED!
• EXPERT KNOWLEDGEABLE CUSTOMER SERVICE!
• UNIQUE NAVY BLUE FORD REMOTE ***MOLDED PLASTIC, NOT A CHEAP PAINTED SHELL***
• OVER THE PHONE TECHNICAL SUPPORT AVAILABLE

I cant believe it is cheaper to buy a Brand new transceiver than it is to replace it's battery but it's true. Not only is this one new, it is custom colored. It is not a cheap knockoff, it is oem with a nice quality colored case. The instructions that came with are spot on and easy to understand. This is especially true for my 00 Focus.

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Got my son a 2012 Ford Focus for Christmas. The Dealer surprised me when I found that I only had 1 remote. I called my local Ford Dealer Parts Department and was told I could get a replacement for $65.00. On a whim, I researched this one online and found this one on amazon. I found it VERY easy to program and paid a fraction of what the Ford Dealer was asking. Very happy with this purchase.

Read Best Reviews of 2000-2012 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Here

I ordered this remote to match the blue keys that I also purchased. Colors, and plastic match the keys perfectly.

Was able to program this remote by using this for my 2008 Ford Focus,

"1. Turn the ignition from "Off" to "Run" eight times in ten seconds. Key stays in "Run" position on eighth cycle. The locks will cycle to confirm that you've entered programming mode.

2. Press any key on the first remote you're programming. Perform this within 20 seconds of Step 1. The door locks will cycle to confirm programming.

3. Repeat Step 2 with each additional remote, within 20 seconds of the prior programming. The locks will cycle after each successful programming.

4. Turn the key to the "Off" position to exit the programming mode. Remove key from ignition. "

If you have more than one fob, be sure to program them both back in at the same time, even if you used one prior. This instruction will 'forget' any previous remotes if you don't program them back in.

My only gripe is that the range on this remote is a bit weak. Sometimes I have to be right up to the car before it'll work. My old remote ford remote was similarly weak though, and its not really a big problem for me.

Want 2000-2012 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Discount?

This product works great. I recommend it to anyone who wants to avoid the dealer charges. It only takes about thirty seconds to program to your vehicle.

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I ordered 2, a blue and yellow, and they are awesome! I like them bein colored and not just plain black and the set up was super easy too!!! It seriously took like 2 mins and we were done. The instructions were easy to follow as well. The only thing I didn't like was that the rings don't come with it but we just put them on our car key rings which I'm assuming anyone would but just a heads up. They also provide tech service over the phone if you can't get it or just need help. This is an amazing buy and recommend it to anyone with a ford!!

Slime 20071 Digital Gauge with Hose 0-160 PSI

I know it is hard for many people to make a judgement on the accuracy of a tire pressure guage. But for people like me who owned several quality brands for a long period of time, it is easy to spot the inaccurate ones by comparing to others they own. I can tell you this one is inaccurate to an unacceptable degree: it reads 3 psi below the actual pressure. This means that right out of the box this thing would cause you to overinflate your tires by 3 psi. This is unacceptable because I know the accuracy of these things will get worse over time, since obviously no consumer would waste the time and money to send these back to the manufacturer for recalibration -like professional measurement instruments should.

It is a good product concept with a lot of features. Unfortunately, the idiots who made it skimped on accuracy. Probably because they gave it such a wide measurement range, up to 160 psi. It is as if these idiots were not aware of the fact that when engineering a measurement instrument, controlling the error would be much harder over a wider range of measurement than over a smaller one.

Right now, it is useless to me! :-(

If you use the scale button you can put the gauge in dyna mode which allows the gauge to read tire pressure instantly while you bleed air out with the bleeder valve. Battery can be replaced with a quarter or change, no screwdriver required. Also this gauge cost me $14 at a local auto parts store: a_tozone.

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This tire pressure guage cost me a motorcycle tire. I was constantly reading 10 to 15psi less than actual pressure, even after calibrating it. After several months of riding like that I decided to try my friends guage and it was indeed over inflated and now I have a bulge in my tire and I'm sure it's due to running with too much air pressure. Do not buy this it will ruin your tires.

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Avoid this. Got one of these as a present for my new car--my first with a tire pressure sensor--so I could bleed down to an accurate fill. I have needed it three times in 18 months and EVERY time the battery (which is an expensive lithium "coin" that you never have around--has been dead. Useless piece of junk. The parts store $1.99 special at least lets you get the pressure close to what you want.

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These gauges are extremely accurate and well built. The claims about inaccuracy by other reviewers may be fixed by using the calibration function described in the manual. I find I need to recalibrate it when I first bought it or when I change altitude. I ride motorcycles off-road and this is the best gauge because it allows you to calibrate for the altitude changes; this is automatic and is essentially just a re-zero function. I verified the accuracy of my gauge using a calibration tool I have at work and it absolutely accurate, even down to low pressures around 3psi but only if you calibrate it.

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Schumacher SP3 Automatic Battery Extender / Maintainer

I purchased one of these to charge some sealed lead acid batteries, and it works like a champ. Hook it up to the battery, plug it in and let it do its thing.

That being said, there are a couple of quirks the user should be aware of. The % capacity display is not at all accurate. It will typically state that a battery is 95% full, then increase slowly until saying it is fully charged, and on maintaining. I used this with several 9Ah 12V batteries, and some 8.5Ah 6V batteries. All of these were tested before & after with a BK Precision 601 professional battery analyzer. The readings never agreed, but that is not necessarily a problem.

BK Precision 601 Battery Capacity Analyzer

While the $400+ BK 601 is a great tool, it is not necessary to know the precise values of capacity, load and no-load voltage or internal resistance (unless you want to know these things of course!) If you are maintaining SLA batteries of a smaller capacity, say anywhere from 3 to 20Ah or so, just hook up the Schumacher and ignore the initial reading. If it says 95%, the capacity might be 80% or might be 45% (I saw readings higher and lower on the 601) No matter. Let the Schumacher charge until it says 'Fully Charged' or 'battery maintaining'. But do not stop charging just yet. At that point, the actual capacity might only be at 95 or 97% (as verified by the 601). Let it go another 15 minutes or half an hour. Then go ahead and disconnect. By that time, nearly all the batteries I tested were at the full 100% according to the BK 601.

If the battery is too far gone, the Schumacher will let you know. There are a few batteries here and there that will accept a charge from the Schumacher, but may not perform as well as new batteries. Outside of a professional analyzer, there is not much you can do about them. They will work, but may only have 90% or so of the charge. The Schumacher does as best as it can with them.

It also oworked well at auto-detecting 6V batteries. Very simple to use, and for easy operation and good performance, and a great price, I give it 5 stars. Just be aware of its limitations.

After receiving this gadget, I realize that I probably could have used the smaller SP2 unit, but now that I've had it a few weeks, I'm quite pleased with how it works.

It is pretty large, but still only about a quarter the sise of a car charger. It's roughly the size of a brick, and has a big LED readout that tells you what it's doing readable from a good distance.

So far, I've only used the alligator clips for my motorcycle battery, but this also comes with a connector that you can attach permanently to the battery and has a simple connector to the charger cord. That means you don't have to remove the seat to hook up the charger. That seems pretty useful, and if I ever decide to unhook my battery and risk losing all the settings on my stereo, I'll install it.

I think something like this is essential in places that have a proper winter that keeps you from riding for weeks at a time.

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This is a great gadget and a must have for any garage mechanic. It takes the guess work out of your battery's maint. Very easy to use. Ive only had it a few days and its already saved me time. I highly reccomend it. Well worth the money!!!

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I love his little charger. I had been using old technology that only displays amperage. This charger shows you voltage and percentage of charge. Automatically selects battery voltage and type. Maintains battery at correct voltage and current to keep it float charged and avoid overcharging and damage. It's a keeper! Keep in mind it is a maintenance charger, not a high current deep charger.

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I bought this battery "extender" to maintain the battery in my two-year-old, rarely-driven garage queen. When I first attached the unit, it said it was analyzing the battery, then reported that it was 5% charged, and proceeded to begin charging. The car had been sitting for three weeks, so I was not alarmed at the battery's condition. It has now been 48 hours, and display says the battery is at 91% charge, the same thing it said twelve hours ago. So either my like-new battery can no longer take a full charge, or this unit is flawed in some way.

Other than this odd behavior, I like the SP3. It tells you what it's doing, takes up little space, and comes with a few different connection options.

One last thing. The manual that comes in the box is brief and omits information--like the connection options. I found a better copy online, but that should not be necessary.

Here is an update: after four days of charging (!), the unit finally switched over to "Maintaining", so all seems well.

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eBestrade MR16 RGB LED Light Bulb with Multi-Color Remote Control 16 Changeable Colors Energy Savin

• RGB Color Model, bring you 16 vivid colors choice
• Four Changing Modes: Flash, Strobe, Fade and Smooth
• Easy use with standard MR16 base
• Only 3W power consumption, energy-saving and environmentally friendly
• Suitable for interior decorative and party use

It showed up earlier than the delivery date was. Works great, I would like to purchase more lamps without having to get the remotes with them. I have a track with 6 lamps and want 1 remote to run them all. I am not sure if I can or not. Great product, the light and controller works flawless. Makes my art work look totally different.

Kevin Denver

Husky Liners Classic Style Custom Fit Molded Front Floor Liner for Select Ford/Mercury Models (Grey)

i ordered these floor mats for my 99 explorer xls even though amazons vehicle look-up says would not fit xls trim! they fit perfect and will fit any explorer very good. they work perfect for harsh canadian winters and keep the carpet like new. they dont slide around at all. my only down side is the color is slightly different from my interior but i am very picky with stuff like that

i would recommend husky liners to anybody. i have them in both of my trucks, they are great and have a lifetime guarantee

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Hifonics ZRX1500.1D Car Amplifier

• A/B Analog Class Amplification that is Blue "Military Grade" PCB
• High Dissipation Heat Sink that is 4/2 Ohm Stable
• High Speed MOSFET Output Devices
• Multi Channel 5/4/3/2 Channel Configurable with Variable Low Pass High Pass and Band Pass
• PWM Power Supply RCA Inputs/Outputs and Built-in system Diagnostics

if you read the item title before you ordered it you would have seen that it was a single channel amp. the description comes from the hifonics website describing the zeus line up, not this amp in particular.

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Do not order!!!!! Wrong discriptions... They will rip u off for what you think it is in the product description verses what it really is... I can tell u it is not the manufactures its Amazon... It's describing a multi channel amp but it is really just a single channel amp..... We have to pay more money for what we need when its their fault for the for the false advertisement!!!!

DB Link BTN1 Negative Battery Terminal

• Negative Terminal
• 4-,8-,10-Gauge Input
• Platinum/Gold Plated

Years and years ago I moved the battery in my Saab 900 from the front, crammed in against the turbo, into the trunk. I used an Optima Red Top probably not the best battery, but what was available at the time in a sealed, non-venting battery. The battery cable was all very high quality braided, silicone insulated stuff but the terminals I've used have been crappy parts store pieces. Inexplicably, I found it IMPOSSIBLE to find battery terminals that fit the negative post of this battery properly they were always loose, and no matter how hard I clamped down never fit right. A couple years back my Red Top stopped holding a charge, so I replaced it with another Red Top and had the same stupid problem with the negative post! So I tried other terminals... and nothing seemed to work right. This stuff is standardized so I can only blame cheapo terminals from Autozone. My last negative terminal literally broke in half over the winter, so I replaced it and the positive side (hey, they gotta match) with these DB Link parts. I was not up for spending $80 on solid gold, LED whathaveyou terminals I just wanted a nice piece that would fit well and last. I think I've found what I was looking for. These terminals installed easily on my battery cable, clamped BOTH posts tightly and completely, and in general appear nicely made. For thirteen bucks each, I think they were a superb choice and I'm looking forward to a long term relationship. In fact, I think I'm gonna order another pair for the other Saab!

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ok connectors was to be a 0 ga,4ga and 28 ga when it arrived it was a 2 ga not 0ga,the clamp bolt is cheap and shaves off metal when tightened. return cost was too high so it was a waste of money. buy the monster clamps, I did much better

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I bought this to replace my OEM terminal clamps. This one did not fit at all on the negative battery terminal of a an Optima red top. The clamp was way too big (like it was made for the positive terminal). I sent it back to amazon for a refund.

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If you have a SAAB NG, then all i have to say is BUY THIS. it is the best fitting negative terminal I have ever used. Plus it has an extra slot for another ground. It is really solidly built. Great value, I bought 2 one for under hood one for aux battery in trunk.

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After spending hours working on this POS in 100 degree heat I can tell you that you're better off trying to remove your own appendix than buying this thing. The problem is that the ring is simply too large to get a secure fit on the negative post of most batteries. Even screwed in all the way to the point of nearly shearing the screw I can still spin the terminal on the post. I even tried making modifications to it but to no avail. Don't waste your time or money on this. You'll just end up with more gray hairs than you started with. I only wish I could rate it 0 stars. Actually I think they OWE me stars, that's how bad it is.

Masterbuilt HMXCR HITCH-HAUL Steel Motorcycle Carrier

I have a 250 Kawasaki Dual Sport that I load on to this carrier. The bike is about 75-100 lbs less than the carrying limit. The bike is relatively easy to load and take off, I can do it by my self, but that may not be true for everyone as I am a relatively tall person with circus like arms. The frame of the carrier shows some twisting as the bike is loaded onto the carrier. I am not sure if this is true with all carriers, but as there is only one central mounting point (the hitch) the shear physics of the weight on one side lead me to believe this would be the same on all carriers. The twisting goes away as soon as the bike is loaded on. It did not come with any tie down straps, but this was remedied with about 30 dollars in straps from the local true value. All in all I am very happy with the way this carrier performs and I recommend it.

works great on hitch of my motorhome. got a kawasaki klr650. can put bike up myself no help needed.

easy assembly.

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This carrier is very adjustable and sturdy. It is constructed of steel, with multiple locations for pins and bolts to accommodate a variety of different sized motorcycles.

It works very well as designed, but could be better engineered if it was made so tightening the bolts didn't begin to crush the steel tubing.

Read Best Reviews of Masterbuilt HMXCR HITCH-HAUL Steel Motorcycle Carrier Here

I used this on a 2,000 mile trip with a KLR650 on the back of a 2005 Tacoma. Getting the bike loaded deformed the metal a little bit so after the first use I put a block under the end to support it while loading and unloading. For the price it did a fair job considering other carriers can get up to $500 and more. I'm sure with a lighter bike it would do much better. For larger bikes you might find it blocks the taillights so consider getting some magnetic or strap on taillights with it (typically used when towing another vehicle).

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It's GREAT we use it on the RV when we go camping for our scooter and love it.

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Peak PKC0AF 2.0 Amp 12V Automatic Semi Intelligent Float Battery Charger/Maintainer

Well thought out from A to Z. Comes with 3 styles of battery connector that unplug from the cord. One is on my boat, one on my lawn tractor and one on my spare battery. I rotate the charger between the 3 batteries and never have to disturb the connectors. It's tough, It's waterproof, It's Smart, It doesn't overcharge and I don't even have to think about it.

Calling this charger intelligent is kind of funny. This is just a standard automotive charger and does not work very well. My biggest concern with charger was the charger voltage which was always around 13.2V, and just not enough to recharge a 12V battery.

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AmazonBasics 175-Watt Pocket Power Inverter with 2.1 Amp USB Port to Charge iPad, Kindle, and Other

I really love this inverter. I've used other inverters that claim to provide 150 Watts or 175 Watts, but their claims are bogus (explained below). And to find an inverter that offers this much payload at this low price is sweet!

First of all, what's an inverter?

The electrical system in your car, boat, or RV runs on a 12 volt DC system. Your cigarette lighter outlet provides power at 12 volts DC. This is fine for things like a phone charger that have a 12 volt DC plug, but what about items that you normally plug into the wall in your home or office? Those devices run on 110 AC power. The role of the inverter is to change (or "invert") the output from your car's electrical system from 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC.

This AmazonBasics inverter provides a grounded 110 outlet for plugging in those household devices as well as a USB outlet for things like iPhones, iPads, etc. (which is a nice bonus).

So what makes this inverter different? First it's important to know that your vehicle's electric wiring isn't intended to run your toaster or hair dryer. Even though an inverter might be designed to provide a high output for larger devices (like a TV or satellite receiver), your vehicle's poor little cigarette outlet can't handle the load. I've used inverters that claim to support a higher load, and they either blow their own internal fuse, blow a fuse on the vehicle, or (worst case) don't blow any fuses and just burn out the wiring to that outlet. That's bad.

So the difference with this inverter is that it supports loads up to 130 watt through the cigarette lighter outlet. For loads from 131 watts to 175 watts, there is a set of alligator style clips to connect directly to the vehicle's battery.

There are plenty of other inverters out there that connect directly to the battery, but I've never seen one this compact and this inexpensive.

Warning: Only use the direct connection to the battery while your vehicle is parked. Don't try to prop open your hood and drive down the road watching TV.

Here's a little tip. Before you purchase any inverter, look at your devices and see what their loads actually are. Sometimes those specs are written in gobbledygook and are hard to decipher. And some devices have two loads: the initial startup load and the actual running load. The startup load for this inverter cannot exceed 175 watts. To be absolutely certain of the draw from your device or appliance, consider using something like this Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor. You plug the monitor into a wall outlet and then plug your device into the monitor. The readout shows you the peak usage and the running usage. If the peak draw is under 175 watts, then this inverter is OK for you.

Bottom line, I'm very happy with this inverter. It's the first one that I've ever had any success with at this wattage. Just make sure not to overload the 12 volt DC outlet with more than 130 watts. And don't use your toaster while you're driving down the road.

The Amazon basics 175W pocket power inverter is the lightest I've seen, weighing in at only 6.1 oz. with the cigarette lighter plug attached. It is also quite small at 4" x 8" x 0.8", perfect for packing in your computer bag. Besides powering your laptop, it also includes a USB port capable of supplying 2.1A, which plenty for charging a phone, iPad or just about any USB accessory. I tested the little unit on my Dell laptop. It powered it easily. Next, I plugged in a 100W light bulb. Again, no problem. The unit has a fan that comes on as necessary to keep the unit cool. With a 100W load (the light bulb) the fan ran continuously. I found the fan to be rather loud and high pitched. In a car, you may not care but the noise level is significant at 58dB at 1 foot (measured with my audio meter). What I found odd is that the fan ran much faster when the load was reduced or removed. For some reason, the voltage to the fan must drop significantly once a load is placed on the inverter. While the inverter is rated at 130W continuous, you can't (or at least shouldn't) do that from a cigarette lighter socket.

The manual is a little confusing. It says you can run the inverter from the cigarette lighter for loads under 130W but also says for 120W-130W to use battery clamps (included) to hook it directly to the car's battery. Personally, I wouldn't advise running it over 90W from a cigarette lighter socket. At 90W output, the unit draws 10A from the socket. That's okay, since most laptop power adapters require no more than 90W. At 100W, it drew 11Amps, which is over the maximum continuous power most lighter sockets are rated (and fused). I didn't test the unit it past 100W.

If the unit was quieter, I would have given it 5 stars but for using in the car, you may be very happy and you will be hard pressed to find a more compact and light inverter.

Buy AmazonBasics 175-Watt Pocket Power Inverter with 2.1 Amp USB Port to Charge iPad, Kindle, and Other Now

The concept is simple: turn 12 V DC from your car into 120 V AC to power things you would normally plug in at home. Useful in an emergency or on road trips.

You plug this into the 12 V socket in your car (what used to be called the cigarette lighter, but most cars today don't even come with the lighter part). A little blue light comes on, and you are ready to plug something into it. I tried a radio, a shop light, and even a handheld jigsaw, and all ran fine.

It also has a USB charger port, which is nice is you don't already have an adapter for that.

I have an old, clunky-looking one piece inverter. The Amazon one looks cooler, but once you add the size of the cord it's not that much smaller. The old one is rated 150 W continuous, this one 130 W. The big difference I noted was in surge capacity. This device is rated to 175 W, while my old one is rated 450 W. It won't make a difference with most small appliances, but something with a big start-up surge or that surges for other reasons may overload this device.

It includes clips to attach it directly to the battery, which will save some loses through the electrical system, and doesn't require having any other parts of the car running to use it. Do use caution when attaching anything directly to the battery.

While not the ultimate in inverter technology, this is a useful thing to have in your car in an emergency.

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Disclaimer: I used this inverter in extreme conditions not normally encountered by most users. Please take this into account when reading the review.

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General Overview

I recently took part in a meteorite search expedition in the desert of Oman that was organized by the local university and natural history museum. The expedition consisted of 18 days in the desert with only the supplies of food, fuel, water, etc. that we brought with us. Temperatures ranged between 6C (42F) to 35C (95F), humidity ranged from below the detection limit of our equipment up to around 90%, though it never rained. In many cases, winds were strong and drove substantial amounts of dust (often sheeting off of the vehicle windows like water). After a matter of hours the interiors of the vehicles were liberally coated with a thick layer of dust, which remained and grew thicker during the entire expedition. Dust and heat are the mortal enemy of electronics, and it's not uncommon for otherwise-robust devices to die horribly in the desert.

I purchased the inverter to run certain basic electronics like battery chargers for AA-size batteries, computers, mobile phones (no service in the desert, but it's good to keep them topped up), two-way radios, and scientific equipment, and other similar uses. Due to the hostility of the environment, I was expecting that this inverter would be "disposable" and didn't expect it to survive the trip.

I was pleasantly surprised to discover that not only did the inverter survive the trip but it did remarkably well. While I can't explicitly recommend using the inverter in extreme environments as it's not rated for such purposes, it performed well and would likely serve the average person very well in more ordinary conditions.

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Tech Details

Like most inverters produced for the North American market, this one produces 120V 60Hz AC power with a "modified sine wave" waveform that differs from the ordinary "true sine wave" waveform produced by mains power available from your wall socket.

In general, modern electronics that have "worldwide" power supplies (that is, they accept ~100-240V AC power) will have no problems at all using the power produced by the inverter. Laptop computers often have such power supplies and should work fine. Incandescent light bulbs and other simple resistive loads will have no problems at all, though you should make sure they don't have a startup surge current that exceeds the ability of the inverter or the car's electrical system to supply. Electric motors are unlikely to work as effectively with inverter power (if they run, they'll run less efficiently, hotter, etc.) and shouldn't be used with inverters. Many motors often have very high surge current when starting, which may overload the inverter. Certain devices like compact fluorescent light bulbs may or may not work well. You should test them beforehand. Your mileage may vary.

When in doubt it's often more efficient and a better idea to use electronics designed for 12V power directly (such as 12V CFL light bulbs, as often used by RVers, or air pumps that clamp directly to the car battery) rather than using an inverter to power household-voltage devices. You can often find a DC-to-DC converter for things like laptops, mobile phones (particularly those that charge using 5V DC, such as those using a USB plug), etc. that allows you to use or charge them using the 12V power socket in a car (or using battery clamps) directly rather than using an inverter, though not everything (like chargers for a $70,000 x-ray fluorescence analysis scanner) has such converters and an inverter is a necessity.

I experienced no problems with the "modified sine wave" produced by the inverter.

There is a small fan on the side of the inverter to aid in cooling. It will come on automatically when needed, so ensure it's not blocked. I found that the inverter starts with the fan off, then switches it to 100% when the internal temperature reaches a set point. After a minute or so, the fan turns off again. This repeats for a few minutes until the inverter gets a sense of how effective the fan is and then adjusts it as needed to maintain a good working temperature. When operating at full power the fan has a distinctly high-pitched whine that some may find slightly annoying, though it can often be masked by turning on the car radio and/or putting it in the rear of the car.

If you listen very closely you can hear a rapid clicking sound (though it's quite faint and you need to have your head very close to the inverter to hear it -it's not the least bit disturbing or annoying beyond a few centimeters from the inverter) as the internal electronics do their work.

The lighter socket plug and battery clamps are both of good quality and connect firmly and securely.

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Safety

It appears that the inverter does not have inrush current limiting on the 12V DC side, so you may experience some sparking when connecting the included battery clamps to the battery as it needs to charge its internal capacitors. This is evidently normal and doesn't pose a problem insofar as the electronics are concerned, but you should ensure that the battery is well-ventilated (as car batteries produce explosive hydrogen gas when charging though not when being used) when connecting or disconnecting the battery clamps. You should use the same safety precautions as when jump-starting a battery.

It's probably a good idea to connect the inverter to the 12V power source first, ensure the blue "on" light is on, and then connect the turned-off load to the inverter, and then turn on the load. It's probably a bad idea to have the turned-on load plugged into the inverter when you connect it, as this would require a substantial rush of current to power.

Additionally, the inverter is not rated for outdoor use, so don't expose it to rain, moisture, etc. In my case, the major threat was dust. After using the inverter for a few hours (regardless of whether it was used inside the car with the power socket or when used outdoors and clamped directly to the car battery) I would unplug it and blow sharply into the vents to clear out accumulated dust. While this worked fine, it's probably not a good idea to expose it (or other electronics) to dust for extended periods of time as it would have a harmful effect on the electronics and the moving fan.

It's not clear if the inverter has an internal fuse -the supplied lighter socket plug and battery clamps are unfused. There does not appear to be any sort of user-accessible fuse on the device.

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Possible Improvements

The only three improvements I'd propose for such a device would be to eschew the fan in favor of an aluminum body that passively dissipates heat, to have inrush current limiting on the input side to minimize sparking, and a user-serviceable fuse. The former would eliminate the one moving part and increase durability a bit, though likely at increased cost. The second should be relatively cheap and easy to implement but isn't a major issue. The third helps prevent potentially unsafe conditions and allows the user to replace the fuse if it burns out.

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Conclusion

The inverter performed really well in the Omani desert in extreme conditions and is likely to perform well in less-extreme conditions. The price is quite good, it's backed by Amazon, and includes both the 12V lighter socket plug and battery clamps. It's comparable in terms of output power and quality to other similarly-priced inverters.

It's a good general-purpose inverter and I strongly recommend it.

If you need higher output power or pure sine wave output, you'd do well to look at other, more suitable products.

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I took the new unit out of the box and it blew a fuse in first vehicle, tried a second vehicle and it blew that one as well. I had no accessories plugged in at the time. Unit failed right out of the box.

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I ordered this for my son who is away at college. After using it successfully for several weeks, he plugged it in to charge his phone one evening and at some point touched the cord to move it and it immediately flashed and snapped and when he looked at the part that plugs into the wall there was a hole in it. Luckily he had it plugged into an outlet which was controlled by a switch on the wall so he turned the switch off and was able to cut power to the charger and unplugged it from the outlet. A bit scary but...no harm done, I guess. It had charged the phone just prior to this happening and there was no damage to the phone itself...just the "plug in" charger. The car charger still works. Just be careful...

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You're probably better off with just a car adapter to power the phone and a technique to attach the phone to the dash so that it doesn't roll around on something like a car seat. The v710 provides best speakerphone quality to both ends if used alone.

I also tried to control the speaker volume from the phone (there's nothing on the speaker unit to do that), and wasn't satisfied.

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My first iPhone--a 3GS--was so inaudible that I removed my SIM card and reverted to my old V60 in the middle of a trip. And yet, I have had 3 iPhones since. All have nifty mini-computer gadgety stuff -but the telephony sucks. Even with my Bluetooth!

So, POd, I just removed my SIM card again (4 years later) and pulled out my V60 from 2003-6. I'm getting the retractable again, because it is unbeatable! I'll keep my iPhone and use it as a Touch -just do my email etc on it.

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I've been using this car kit for about 3 years and couldn't be happier wih the sound quality. The only problem I have with it is that the 12V plug is too tight for the accessory outlet in my Lexus RX330, but it has fit fine in several other cars that I've owned, including Nissan and Chrysler. If you intend on using it in a Lexus, get an adapter for $12.99. It will save you trips to the dealer to have the accessory outlet put back in. I've had the same problem with the 12V plug on my GPS unit.

I don't understand why the other person rated it so poorly, but mine is loud and clear with my V300.

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