Shorai LFX09L2-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron Powersports Battery

This reviewer also purchased this Shorai LFX09L2-BS12 Battery for ham radio use while camping, and believed it was about a 9 amp-hour battery. It certainly is small, lightweight, and LiFePo4 chemistry is safe and offers many advantages.

Upon receiving and inspecting this battery, I read the cell architecture and Whr(watt hours)on the side opposite what is normally in all the pictures shown and listed online. The architecture is 4S2P, which means that there are four LiFePO4 cells in series and two cells in parallel. Each LifePo4 has a working voltage around 3.2 volts, therefore, a total of about 13.2 volts.

The WHr (watt(amps*volts)hours) listed on the battery is 39.6, so if we divide 39.6(amp*volts*hours)by 13.2 volts, we get the actual amp-hours of only: 3.0 amp-hours.

Additionally, the Shorai Website lists the battery as: 9aH PBeq (lead acid equivalent). I believe, what Shorai is representing, that this small LiFePO4 battery has the same deep cycle ability to start a vehicle, as a regular 9 amp Lead Acid battery.

If a ham radio operator enjoys QRP while camping, this battery will be okay. However, if you are believe you are getting around a 9 amp-hour battery, it does not appear to be the case.

This reviewer would recommend that prior to ordering any battery manufactured by Shorai, ask the retailer to provide the WHr (watt-hours) that is imprinted on the side of battery, then divide by the working voltage. This way you will arrive at the actual amp-hours.

Lastly, check to see if the retailer charges a 20% restocking fee in addition to what you may pay in return shipping.

I am a ham radio operator who also loves to hike and backpack,the fact that this battery only weighs in at 1.5lbs makes it awesome to carry in a bag to recharge my radio batteries, gps, cell phone and other knick-knacks. 9 Ah at 1.5 lbsunheard of!

The recharge time is also super-fast compared to SLA batteries. This technology should make it much easier for most Ham radio guys to have a high-amperage battery without the weight associated, 1/5 the weight of most batteries. The fact that it also has a feasible life of 5-10 years is awesome!

Looking into a solar panel and charge controller next to complete the set-up.

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Love the power and size of this battery. Used it in a Honda 150 dirt bike. Bike cranks over better

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Easy relatively inexpensive weight savings. Way lighter than stock. LION Tech last longer than standard lead acid. Price was about $20 cheaper than what I found on some other sites.

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This product is still being tested but so far it is much lighter and smaller then the battery that came with the bike. Seems to work flawless but want to give it a good long test run before I have a final opinion.

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Lanzar VCT2610 6,000-Watt 2-Channel High-Power Mosfet Amplifier

• 3000W x 2 output at 4 Ohms
• 6000W x 1 bridged output at 2 Ohms 2 Ohm Stable
• Frequency response: 15 Hz-30K Hz
• Signal to noise ratio: >95dB
• Thermal / overload / short circuit protection

6000 watts nope nada no way false advertising.

Believe me I have 0 gauge wire going from two batteries total over 2000 amps cranking output and over 200 amp hour rating and a 270 amp alternator giving 190 amps at idle with a 10 Farad Cap hooked up.

I knew something wasn't right when I took the amp out of the box and saw the power block on it??? WHAT 6000-8000 watt amps with wuss power connectors and two 60 amp maxi-fuses...

Explain how the laws of physics has changes where you can run that supposed amount of amperage into a connector no larger than a speaker connector?? YOU CAN NOT IT WILL MELT... I used power distribution blocks and stepped down from 0 gauge to 4 gauge and used crimp gold plated connectors to the cap and another adapter to down size the 4 gauge end so I could even hook it to the amp power block..

3000x2 at 4 ohms BS; 8000 watts at 2 OHMS Bridged BIG BS..

I am running a two 15" 4000 watts rated speakers in a vented box using the two Pyle 15" loud speakers sold here on Amazon for 96.00 each and claimed to handle 4000 watts EACH; so I have two so I should be able to run at 8000 Watts? NOPE Nada zip more false advertising..

I have the sub input turned ALL THE WAY DOWN so it doesn't trip into protection mode....

. NO BASS Boosts and when I take my head unit to about 2/3 volume??

I am using the head sub output line so I am not over driving the input signal to the amp..

The amp will almost immediately go into protected mode and shut down; this happens in a few seconds and NOT FROM OVER HEATING.

Don't get me started on how hot this amp runs at even low settings..

Running the amp at about half volume you can fry an egg on it and it has way plenty air circulation... I even put 1/2 square strips under the amp mounting feet to raise the amp off the board to get air to flow under it as well using two 12v computer case fans.. Still will burn me if I touch it after running it...

In fact the amp is sitting in front of the box vent and THAT IS BLOWING AIR AT AND OVER IT....

The pyle speaker are wired in parallel at 2.2 OHMS and then wired box connectors in parallel at at 2.9 OHMS. Then amp is hooked up in bridged mode which the manufacturers book states it can do at 2 OHMS...

I will be rewiring the speaker hookup later for two channel and see what then happens; but I don't give it much hope.

I bought the 1Lanzar Vector 2610 amp, 2-PYLE PLD15WD speakers, Boss 10 Farad Capacitor, and Dual 15" speaker box here on Amazon..

What size/brand bettery needed for a 8000w system?

I'm about to do a system that's gonna be 8000 watts. 4000 rms. my alternator is going to be 140 amps.

"The power wire between the battery and alternator..."

Lets do some math..... Assuming 4000 watts RMS. To figure current draw, you take power times the inverse of efficiency of the amp divided by volts divided by 2.5 (the average power in music). We'll assume 80% efficient. I = ((4,000 x (1/0.8)) / 13.8) / 2.5 I = (5,000 / 13.8) / 2.5 I = 362 / 2.5 I = 144 amperes Now this 144 amperes is just to run the audio system, You need to add on another 40% to power the vehicle as well (lights, heater, etc.) so... I = 144 x 1.4 I = 202 amperes total What this all boils down to is you will need: Two Group 31 deep cycle batteries and at least a 200 amp alternator. Oh, and don't forget the "Big 3" that is to replace (or add to [recommended]) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis. Got money?

**** It is clear for their own reasons that make no sense except to be TROLLS and FLAMERS are attacking me. ****

They don't contribute to this "discussion" in any constructive way; yet use moronic words and miss spellings. It is also very clear they lack the ability to even comprehend the simple written English language.

I provided what I found in regards to this amp.

Another poster called me stupid because 00 gauge wire the amp draw will cook off the insulation. These amps or any other amp even CEA certified do not pull a constant 400-600 amp draw but in surges.

I have seen allot of these morons cars burn up because they didn't wire it correctly. One common example is running the power wire from the battery and only fusing it at the amp and NOT at the battery.

These are the same morons that are going boom boom past your house at 4 AM... You look at their "car" and all you can see is a bunch of idiot "bobble" heads sticking up just past the door window edge...

These are the same morons in mommies Honda that tried drifting and broad sided my Z28 BC4 Camaro parked at the curb. My great neighbors stopped them from running away and they got a serious beat down before the cops arrived..

To those who had good questions and constructive questions I will answer those the best way I can; to the morons, go stick your heads up a dark and smelly place..

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One thing to note is in the Manual that comes with it that Amazon did not put on here is More Technical Specs so here they are.

RMS Power @4 Ohms 300 watts x2

THD @4 Ohms 450 watts x2

RMS Power @2 Ohms 600 watts x2

THD @2 Ohms 900 watts x2

Maximum Power Output @2 Ohm 6,000 watts x1

Bridged Power @4ohm 8,000 watts x1

Low Level Impendance Input: 10K Ohms

Low Level Sensitivity Input: 200mV-6V Adjustable

S/N Ratio: 95dB

Channel Separation: 65dB

Chrossover Filters-

Low Pass:40 Hz-150 Hz

High Pass:40 Hz-250 Hz

Bass Boost: 0~+18dB

Sub Sonic Filter:10-100 Hz

Stereo Mode: 2-4 Ohms

Bridged Mode: 4-8 Ohms

Fuse Size: 60A x2

Power Supply Voltage: 14.4V DC Neg. Ground (10.5-16V)

So Note that This Amp says it can do 8,000 watts not just 6,000 and so far it Feels like it can but i dont have a sub that can handle 8,000 watts once i do i will post again hope this helps any body.

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This amp is really a true rms 300 watt x 2 @ 4 ohm amp (true 600 watts x 2 @ 4 ohm stereo or 1200 watts rms @ 4 ohms bridged) DO NOT buy it if you think it is a 6000 watt RMS amp as it IS NOT. Lanzar chose unwisly to list it as a 6000 watt PEAK amp... a little decieving. But none the less this is a true 1200 watt amp that demands more than more factory automotive can handle. Plan on running a minimum of true 4 gauge pure copper wire and do the "big 3" upgrade. Also plan on losing some hearing if you have some good subs that can handle this amp. I give it 2 thumbs up!

1998 Haonda Accord

Stock alt (for now)

Kinetick 1800 Batt

2 gaughe to trunk

1Kicker Solo x

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i had this amp hooked up to 2 lanzar 15s and every time it hit i would go into protection but i had the 4000 watt vibrant amp hook to 2 other 15s of the same type and would push them hard if u want a good amp dont go with lanzar cuz the vibraant amp i had started smoking for 5 mins then after that it was fine

ive been hooking up car audio for 5 years now go with a name brand amp everybody say they all have the same stuff on the inside but open up to different amps and which has bigger caps.and ect.

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"This is the truth about this amp" i bought this amp because i thit it was a good deal for the watts,wow was i shocked this amp SUCKED SOOOO BAD it wouldent even puch 2 sony 10s lol..

Delphi SA10224 SKYFi 3 Portable XM Radio Receiver with Vehicle Kit

Ok, I feel for people with a bad unit. Mine was working for two hours then locked up. I had another one arrive a few days later from another seller, it worked great! Difference was: THE FIRMWARE! I reset the first locked up unit by pressing the Volume+ button on the side while pushing the Mode (on/off) button on the front. The firmware version is shown at the bottom of the screen at startup, my first unit was version 1.03! Version 1.19 is the latest! (16 revisions of the firmware have obviously solved numerous problems) So I went to XM's firmware update page (http://fwupdt.xmradio.com/), hooked up the supplied USB cable from my computer to my SkyFi unit, clicked on the "XM Firmware Client (R2.26} (in red) at the bottom of that page and followed the simple instructions and let it do its update magic. Presto...my first unit works great now, no lockups, just smooth operations in all features. It's a great unit, just some of these have been sitting around on a shelf somewhere for a while (from the original $199.00 price days) and just need this simple fix to straighten them out. Best XM radio value out there!

I use this device with awesome results in my vehicle. I use a cassette adapter to play it through my car stereo, rather than the built in FM modulator. I get much better results using the cassette adapter. I do not have the antenna mounted on the exterior of my vehicle. Rather, I simply lay it on a non-skid pad on my dashboard. This device has

many improvements over the Roady2, most notably the portability (you can use it like a Walkman with headphones purchased separately). The ability to record songs is great, as is the fact that the device has a slot for up to a 2 GB microdisk. (It will not accept a microdisk larger than 2GB). Basically, you can use this device as an MP3 player and as a satellite radio. I did do the firmware update on the product. This was no big deal to do the download online. It does freeze on a rare occasion. There is a reset option that fixes this--you simply press two keys simultaneously as directed in the manual. I got this product and a home and car kit free after rebate elsewhere, even as an existing XM subscriber. I've also purchased the headphones with built in antenna, and an extra car and home kit. I got those accessories for about $5 each on the Delphi site using a special code I found on Fat Wallet.

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For those of you wondering if you should purchase this XM Radio system and look to the reviews to decide, I will definitely recommend the SKYFI 3 to you. MP3 and live XM recording are both very easy to use. Most of the bad reviews mention that the radio locks up while in use. I work ten hour shifts driving circles around a small town, so I have put probably 3 to 4 hundred hours of use into my SKIFI 3 that I purchased 2 months ago. I did have the radio lock up on me twice in the first week of using the radio. I found out that it only locks up when you leave the radio on and have activated the auto shut-off timer. I disabled the auto shut-off the first week and the SKIFI 3 has not locked up since. I just last week I ordered 2 more for other members of my family.

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I would have given this five stars, because it looks really cool and works great in the car when it works, but sometimes it freezes, and other times it just doesn't work. Definitely long on features and looks, short on quality and reliability. Would I buy it again? Maybe. I would take a closer look at alternatives.

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Well, as others have mentioned, the sound is fine. But, I had no complaints about SkyFi2's sound either. And beyond that, I've had nothing but trouble since I opened this thing.

1) It's very slow to boot up.

2) It is very slow to change channels and to register the buttons you press.

3) The remote is not as useful as the SkyFi2's remote.

4) The car console doesn't have a "jump" feature like the SkyFi2's did, so you need to use the remote to do that.

5) The "enter" button only sometimes acts as an "enter" button, and the rest of the time it changes the display mode, and there's really no way to predict when it'll work correctly.

6) This one's not the unit's fault, but I made sure my new car had an auxiliary input so I can hook up the radio--but when I hook it up to the car's power and auxiliary jack at the same time, there's a loud, high-pitched feedback, and the only way to avoid that is to not plug it in. But if it's not plugged in, it obviously doesn't work. So it can't work with the auxiliary jack.

7) The FM transmitter is not very good, and I had to purchase a separate modulator to hook up directly to the FM antenna.

I honestly wish I had never upgraded, and I'm going back to the SkyFi2 as soon as I finish typing this.

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Retractable Car USB Kit for HTC Hero

We ordered this and it stopped working after a few days. But I contacted the seller and they sent me out a new one within a few days. This new one seems to be working fine. For an inexpensive car charger i'd say it's pretty good.

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3 in 1 charger kit - car charger travel charger USB charger and date cable

• For Apple Touch Itouch 1st 2nd Generation, Nano 4th 3rd 2nd 1st Generation, iPhone 1st 2nd 3G Generation, Classic 1st 2nd Generation, Video
• This Combo Pack Includes: One USB Home Charger, One USB Car Charger, One USB Cable.
• Car Charger: Vehicle Lighter Adaptor.(12~24v DC). Short circuit protection. LED charging indication.
• Home Charger: Charger: Input: 100V - 240V (U.S. & World Standard) (50~60Hz/180mA).Output: 7.6V / 800
• Cable: 2-In-1 Features: Hotsysnc & Charging. Connect your Ipod with your PC/Laptop by USB port.
• iPod, software & technical support not included.

I purchased 2 of these for my kids and am very disappointed! My daughters broke within 12 hours of getting it and my sons made it a whole 4 days!! Very cheaply made. Save your money!

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Usually it's better to buy accessories in a bundle, it's cheaper and sometimes it ships faster. This particular product was a practical purchase because I actually use each item when I travel.

The retractable USB Data Hotsynch charging cable is not an excellent quality. The cable gets stuck and does not retract well back into place. But it works for for what I need it for, which is hiding the long cable and it doesn't get tangled up with other cables.

The travel charger works well when I travel especially if I'm not carrying my laptop around. It lets me plug it when I'm at the airport, coffeshop or anywhere else with a power outlet.

The car charger I really don't need because I have a stereo that connects to my IPOD and charges my IPOD while it's playing.

Overall, its a good buy.

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I really enjoy my itouch. I like to use the apps all the time but the first generation battery doesn't last long. This kit gives me what I need to recharge no matter where I am. Laptop, standard ac outlet, car....all are covered and it works great.

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The pictures and description are accurate and you receive exactly what you think you will. I especially like the retractable cord for charging the ipod.

It does exactly what it is supposed to do!! I would recommend it to anyone needing a charger that can do both car and home! :)

Stinger 4 Gauge Shoc-Krome Barrier Fork Spades ( 2 Pair )

• Accepts direct connection of 4 gauge power wires
• Corrosion Resistant - High Power Delivery
• #10 Opening Size
• Very heavy duty. Can be used for audio, marine and any underhood wiring.
• 2 red and 2 black protective terminal covers

Perfect fit on my amps terminals. Better than plugging the power and ground cables directly to the amp. Opening #10 means that the spades will fit into a 10mm space in the amp.

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Car Holder ECS-K1F2BE for Samsung I9250 Nexus

We use this for roadtrips or anything that might take a while. I have a VERIZON LTE model (yes i know, this is for the other model of the nexus). That being said, around the internet there's some words on the modifications needed to make a LTE model fit. Few different ways to go about it but the general idea is to make the holes for the volume and power buttons larger as the LTE is a bit thicker, the buttons sit closer to the front than on the other model.

The method I used was to use a poking device (butter knife or something, not sharp) to pop the volume and the power buttons out of the shell and then to use an appropriate diameter drill bit to elongate the inner hole (its got an outer shell and an inner, the hole on the inside needs to be elongated). Then I used a dremel with a sanding disk to widen the inside holes. That about sums it up. Put the buttons back in it and the phone pops right in and doesn't have a fit.

Takes some practice but you just want to pop it in there, not cram or solidly seat. The pins still don't completely line up so if you jam one side in more than the other it won't pickup the pin connections on the side. or the audio will be intermittent.

Second comment, need to get the apk for the google car dock app, typically found alongside the car dock modification info. its called cardock. side load that to your device and when you drop it in the dock, it rotates landscape and launches cardock. no app? no big deal, it'll still rotate landscape but you'll have to hunt and peck for your pandora app or whatevers.

Audio out works great, music is awesome.

Wanna use the phone? Get a bluetooth. cardock is intelligent and will turn on the bluetooth when you dock the thing and actively sync to your earpiece. wasn't made to use the car speakers (privacy reasons.)

Charges the phone, and keeps it topped up when you're navigating with the gps on and the radio streaming.

Fits with the OEM extended battery and extended battery cover.

the biggest downside to this all is that with the extended battery i have two options go naked, or use the sycrilic case, the soft inner with the hard outer shell. so if i'm rocking the case, obviously, i have to take it out of the case to dock it. which is a slight pain in the butt to do that EVERY DAY for my commute or whatnot, so its why I only really use it on car trips and then the phone is au natural for the weekend.

Hope you like this, the info is out there on the interwebs for this mod if you need more than that, but it works, and works awesome.

Oh and the suction cup is a monster... (my silly garmin still falls every so often, this guy stays on teh windshield while you manhandle it to get your phone back. oh yeah, btw, this dock WANTS your phone. and it will not give it back. you must want it back to get it out of the thing, but thats what the popout hole is for just jam your fingers in there and the phone flies out at you angrily and bounces off the dash into your coffee so be careful out there!... okay, so I didn't do the coffee bit, but it did fly out the drivers side and i saved it with my sneaker. 'nuff said there.

I had been looking for this dock since I bought my Galaxy Nexus from Google. They suddenly stopped selling its accessories and other docks didn't have the pogo pins and were in reality just stands for the Nexus. This is a genuine Samsung product the real deal with the pogo pins. Syncs your phone into car mode and turns even the home screen to landscape.

Careful however if you sync your phone to your car via bluetooth; make sure it is synced before docking otherwise it becomes a headache to connect the audio to the car via bluetooth if you dock first.

Excellent dock!

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Pros: Solid mount, uses pogo pins, good quality charger included

Cons: Difficult to insert and remove phone from dock. Charger only has 1 USB output (most of the others I've used have 2). Arm that holds the dock is VERY wide, make it hard to see around if mounted on the windshield.

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i was looking for for a long time. unfortunitally Google's relationship with Samsung has soured a bit so the phone and it's accessories was quickly replaced which is a bummer because it leaves everyone buying into this (truely) first nexus phone stranded. after all this car holder is the real deal. the fitting of the phone into car holder or taking the phone out requires a bit of effort. this is not for everyday use in my opinion. there have been times where i was worried about having damaged the phone while inserting or removing the phone. otherwise this car holder beats any other i have seen so far

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Returned this product. Fit was way too tight and therefore difficult in removing phone from mount. Pogo pins didn't work either. Not worth the money. Bought another generic one here on Amazon for only $9.99 that works much better even without the pogo pins.

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XS-Power-D680

I have had it installed 2 weeks now. I have it on a pac 200 relay and it bangs out lots of power. I play it loud and with the car off. Like sound when your pac 200 comes on. Easy setup and its pushing my mtx 9500 with lots of power, No flashing headlights and lots of bass worth 100 bucks. Im pushing Two amps one brutus hifonics 1600 watt amp and it straight gets busy. My job is a hr away and I play it the whole hr on blast it does not fade. I thought what was this little battery gonna do but boy was I wrong and Im impressed for sure. Out of 13 systems this is my best system ever due to this little thing, Dont bother with a cap do this or another xs .

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