Husky Liners Classic Style Custom Fit Molded Front Floor Liner for Select Toyota 4Runner Models (Gr

I end up bought another front liner(WeatherTech 460111) for my 4 runner which work very nice. Husky front floor liner curve up around the edge and keep sliding up front and cause driving problem. Rear floor liner is OK

Fit on my 2003 4runner. Love the look and functionality of these. The only thing i'm not thrilled with is the holes for the hooks but otherwise 5 stars. *Edit* they did interfere with my gas pedal a bit. Had my pedal cut by toyota for the recall and still not good. What i did was i took a scissor and cut a small piece off by the pedal . Now it's perfect. Consider this when buying because for some might not be worth the investment if you have to turn around and cut them. For me it was because i got them here on amazon for a great price but just keep this in mind.

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Allstar Performance ALL18205 Rivet Gun for Cordless Drill

I've been using this tool for several projects around the shop and have found it to be very useful. It is not perfect in that it is somewhat long when assembled as compared to manual installation tools, but when combined with a cordless drill it makes short work of assembly jobs.

This drill accessory for power driving rivets makes setting rivets very easy. Testing on non-critical materials is recommended. While it is advertised as usable with cordless drills, I recommend that it be used with a corded drill because of the high torque involved in setting rivets. The unit must be held firmly with the other hand as part of the setting process. A really valuable tool.

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What a great tool. Saved time and loads of stress. One caution, keep on low speed if your cordless has 2 settings. High speed seems to break the internal parts. So not industrial grade but simply awesome if you treat it like a plow horse instead of a race horse. And who could complain about a plow horse if the other option is to pull the plow yourself? ;-)

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this tool works very well. Anyone who does a lot of riveting should have it in their toolbox.,A time saver.

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I'll never pop another steal rivet without this. Use It way more then average person very durable. Very fast and effective.

ITRONICS ITB-100HD 1080p True HD Car DVR "Black Box" Recorder with GPS

• 2 Megapixel - H.264 Compression - Night Vision - Full HD 1920 x 1080p, 1280 x 720p, 720 x 480p
• Record Video, Audio, Speed and GPS Location - GPS is built in
• 8GB Class 10 SD Card Included - Recording Time 3 - 13 hours
• Parking Mode with Shock and Motion Sensors - Record Incidents Even When Vehicle is Unattended
• -20 to 70C (158 F) Operating Environment - Does Not Suffer Heat Issues

Just an FYI, I didn't purchase this here, so I won't comment on sellers or prices.

Short review:

+ Full HD! can read license plates and see details clearly in daylight

+ Built-in GPS is surprisingly accurate with both location and speed.

+ Built-in accelometer records any bumps or "shocks" the vehicle receives.

+ Good quality mounting sticker

+ Several configuration options

+ Updateable firmware if you can find it

+ Automatically over-writes oldest files when card is full

+ Small and semi-inconspicuous

+ Automatically saves video when unplugged

+-Parking mode option if camera is powered

+-Default configuration options don't work well, but are changed easily.

+-Included 8GB card is only 4 hours of HD video. Easily upgradeable to 32GB card though.

Not so great at night this is where the 5th star went.

Expect broken English, as this is a Korean product.

Quick start guide only Korean English manual is on the SD card.

Software tends to crash/lock up fairly often

I believe there is no manufacturer warranty for the US.

No button to permanently keep a recording

Built-in mic records quiet and muffled.

Details:

Only 1 button on camera: Microphone toggle on or off.

List of configurable options for the CAMERA from within the SOFTWARE:

* Only one physical button: Microphone on or off.

* Speed toggle in Kilometers/hour (KPH): on or off.

* Recording quality: 1080p@24fps; 1080p@15fps; 720p@30fps; 720p@15fps; 480p@30fps; 480p@15fps.

* Brightness: Standard & Bright. Literally just makes the recording brighter doesn't seem to improve quality at all.

* Shock sensitivity when driving: Off; insensitive; normal; sensitive. Normal picks up every single bump. I keep at insensitive.

* Parking Mode: Off (stops recording); Record for Shock only; Record for Shock or motion.

* Shock sensitivity when parking: Insensitive; normal; sensitive.

* Motion sensitivity when parking: Insensitive; normal; sensitive.

* Shock alarm: On or Off. Camera beeps when it senses a shock.

* File delete method: By time or by file type. Overwrites oldest file first, or lets you set percentage of each type of file to keep.

* Time Zone: For the date/time overlay on recordings.

List of configurable options for the SOFTWARE:

* Speed toggle: Kilometers/hour (KPH) or Miles/hour (MPH)

* Brightness

* Contrast

* Night mode: On or off. Same thing as brightness control, just simpler.

* Rotate recording

* Capture image. Saves current frame as image.

* Play Speed: 0.4x; 0.6x; 0.8x; 1x; 2x

* Volume

Parking mode details:

Parking mode is supposed to be a low-power mode that is activated after the camera is stationary for 5 minutes. Of course, this will only matter if you keep the camera plugged in and if your car provides power when off. The camera stays on the entire time, it just doesn't write the video to the card unless it detects shock or motion, which I assume uses less power. Yes, this could drain your battery anyways, but the camera uses such little power this is not likely unless you rarely/never drive the car.

Note on motion: The manual doesn't clarify this at all, so I had to test for myself. The camera actually does "see" motion not just "feel" it. In other words, if motion is turned on for parking mode it will record someone walking in front of your car/camera, not just pushing on the car.

Other notes:

* You need a windows computer to install the software, change settings, or view GPS data. However, raw video is stored as standard AVI files, so you will still be able to view video with any computer.

* This camera has no night vision whatsoever. There needs to be some source of relatively bright light to see anything clearly.

* I forgot to measure the length of the 12v adapter cord before installing, but I was able to route the cord all the way around my windshield, out and around the dashboard, and to the middle outlet with about a foot to spare. It may have been 10-12ft long.

* The camera saves a video file to the card every 1-2 minutes OR when power is disconnected.

* Camera takes about 30 seconds after power is applied to begin recording, and averages about 1-2 minutes to obtain a GPS signal.

* To reiterate, if speed overlay is enabled, you will only see KPH in the video. MPH is only viewable in the software.

*Update: There is an English version software update available that works for me on Windows 8 x64, so I assume it should work on Windows 7 as well. It is located on the original manufacturer's "mall" site, which is totally in Korean. Link below if it will allow: ipassmall.co.kr/ipassblack/down_proc.asp?filename=PC+Player%28ver+1%2E3%2E2%29%5FITB%2D100HD%2Ezip

Buy ITRONICS ITB-100HD 1080p True HD Car DVR "Black Box" Recorder with GPS Now

This is a great camera, for what it is.

With accelerometers (to sense crashes, jolts or sudden acceleration/braking) and embedded GPS metadata, this is much more than just a souped-up GoPro camera.

The camera records audio and video continuously on the included full-size 8Gb SDHC card, but I would recommend buying a 32Gb card or two. It's a good idea to have a spare on hand in case you need to remove the card to view or preserve its contents.

Most cameras in this price range dont even record audio, the ITB100HD does.

Camera settings are done within the (Windows only) player application, which are then transferred via the SDHC card to the camera. The camera itself has one control: A single push button that toggles the internal microphone on and off, and to format the memory card. Worked fine with 64-bit Windows 7.

Settings include choices of frame-rate and resolution, whether or not the camera records continuously (or simply responds to motion or jolts), whether the camera overwrites older files, and in what order event-associated files are over-written.

You can also choose how sensitive the shock sensing and motion detection is -to a point. I have found there are too few steps of resolution to choose from, and the camera is often sensitive even at its most insensitive settings. There are also presets for brightness, time zone, and the ability to export still frames or whole clips to your computer's hard drive.

When the camera experiences shock or jolt, it tags a clip as an 'event'. Likewise, if it records motion while in 'Parking mode' (when it senses you haven't moved for five minutes), it tags those just as distinctly. This is useful when sorting thru files to distinguish travel time from time parked.

The on-screen speed overlay is in Kilometers/hour, requiring a 3rd-party firmware hack to correct it to mph.

Time-stamp information comes from GPS, so that is not only a convenience but essential if you need to use this video in court.

There is a 'Video Out' connector you can use to assist aiming during installation, and later to provide sound and picture if you want to live-stream your dashcam to UStream, Skype, etc. This is an essential option if you need to preserve your video remotely, to protect evidence from theft or confiscation.

The videos are divided into one or two-minute timestamped clips (depending on the frame-rate you choose) and are standard H.264 video playable on any modern computer.

In the event of a crash or power loss, the camera has enough internal reserve power to do a proper shut-down, preserving the video.

At the highest quality setting, the frame-rate is 24fps (rather than 30fps) but is more than adequate. Even the 15fps option performs well, and may actually be a better choice for night driving and economizing memory.

The 'Parking' setting appears to be more for saving recording space than battery power, so if you have a weak car battery you may not want to leave this operating for days without charging your battery.

The pinhole opening for the microphone can be enlarged to improve audio, which comes from the factory somewhat muffled.

The mounting kit is for adhering the camera to the windshield glass. In my vehicle, however, I get better performance mounting the camera to the rear-view mirror, so you may wish to obtain a hefty piece of Velcro. Mirror-mounting also better conceals the camera from theft, and newer vehicles have continuous power available at the mirror so you dont have visible wires and clutter.

Each time you insert the SDHC card, you need to push the 'format' button to get the camera to recognize it. If you forget, the camera will sound an 'SD card error' (4 beeps that repeat) after the camera has been operating for several minutes.

There is an essentially useless LED that faces the front, and flashes when in the 'Parking mode'. I call it the "steal me" light, and you can cover it with black tape.

The oddest thing about this camera is how it is marketed.

iTronics has apparently had issues with some sellers, and honoring the warranty seems to depend on where you bought it.

The manual is broken English, so it would be worthwhile to consult some online forums dedicated to this camera.

The English portion of iTronics website is completely unintelligible, so firmware and software updates are often found on independent forums like dashcamtalk.com or radardetectorforum.org.

Even with the English-language software version, iTronics seems to assume most users will be in Korea. That's unfortunate, because they are underestimating the value of their own product, and missing bigger markets.

You can find the English manual on-line, search for ITB100HD_English Manual.pdf

You can also download and install the player application, by searching for ITB-100HDE PC Player.zip

There are other versions of this camera from iTronics, some have substituted the GPS module for Wi-Fi (so you dont have to fetch the SDHC card) and even one with a voice module (sadly, only in Korean). The ITB-100HD has the better CMOS imager and performs better at night, so beware if you are considering other models.

If you are a good driver, and are ever in the position where you need to prove it, this under-$200 "black box" is a good investment.

If you would like a rock-steady record of a road trip matched with a GPS map, you are also in luck.

One last thought: Using this camera at night will definitely illustrate the value of keeping your windshield clean.

Read Best Reviews of ITRONICS ITB-100HD 1080p True HD Car DVR "Black Box" Recorder with GPS Here

The only concern I had when buying this product was that I saw that it was km/h only and would only show MPH in the viewing software.

I found a guy on a forum who was selling a converstion for $8.00 and thought that was crazy. Then I did a bit more searching and found a blog post that not only described in detail how to convert the code to work with MPH, but also shared a patched binary for FREE!

has details on how to update the firmware of the camera to use MPH instead of km/h. It took me less than five minutes to convert mine and now I couldn't be happier.

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1080hd for good quality video,

GPS to tell you where and how fast you were going,

shock sensor to tell when you crashed,

Accelerate or Decelerate awareness,

creates separate folders,

So whats missing?

an installation for MAC, are you serious? how did such amazing technology mess this up? i cant even look at the settings, since there is only one button on the device and everything else is handled through the computer when the SD card is inserted, fail...

I did not buy this product from this vendor on amazon, but am giving a review on the itronics ITB-100HD.

over all its a good product that work well and is very easy to use.

PROS: no over heating problems unlike the blackvue

the recording quality is good during the day but is just ok at night

you are only able to read lic plate if the car is not in motion and is within 5 ft in front of you.

CONS: clarity at night is not the greatest. I dont believe this is a true 1080P HD quality more like 720p (yes i have the settings on 1080P)

the IPASS Black program does not always work

if you have a MAC, windows 7 or 8, forget about using the program as it wont even start up with the SD card in the computer. you are still able to play the video on quicktime or windows media player or

VLC

the mic is not the greatest but works decent.

overall its a good product.... this product is mainly only used to record accidents not obtain lic plates while car is in motion.... dispite the cons i am able to express this is still one of the best car dash cams out there.

Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 2002 Dodge Neon With Do-It-Yourself Programming (Requires 1 wo

This item worked great, just make sure you try it BEOFRE you open it as once it is opened it cannot be returned, even if it does not work for your vehicle. The instructions were easy to follow and on the car we used it for it worked the the first try. Sure beats paying out the nose for one at the dealer.

I am more than satisfied with this product. I received my order in a timely manner, and the instructions were very easy to follow! I would recommend this to anyone with only one working remote.

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Rather than going to a dealer and paying some outrageous price I decided to look online for another keyless entry as I had only one. I'm glad I did. I received it quickly and after reading through the instructions two or three times I went to my car and programed it. It was quite easy to do. I would be glad to buy from the same company again!

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Stanley J309 300 Amp Jump Starter

Awesome! Plenty of jump start power. Purchased 1 from Amazon & another from my local hardware store(same model). Used 4 times in the last few days on our fleet vehicles. Cars/trucks/vans...no problems. Charging is easy on this model, just plug it in with an ordinary household AC extension cord or use the DC adapter supplied. Also, this unit has an on/off switch. My old one didn't so the terminals were 'HOT' all the time. Life saver device, well worth the bucks!

I bought this jumper to jump my motorcycle. The battery goes dead every winter and I am not in an area where I would be able to keep the battery charged over the winter (I am forced to park the thing out on the street). Anyway, this jumper works great I plugged it in, let it charge for a day (although I don't think it requires a full day to charge) and jumped my bike right up the battery on my bike was completely dead prior to the jump. Very easy, no problems.

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Nice features, well constructed. I plug it in to charge it up once a month. (more often than suggested) I let it charge for two full days when I charge it, indicators read full charge.

I needed to use it today because my car battery finally died (6 years old). I plugged the Stanley in to top up the charge, let it top up for two hours. Indicator showed full charge. Tried to start the car. Nothing. I could see sparks when I attached the battery, so I know there was juice, but just not enough to turn over the 6 cylinder engine.

The Stanley unit has a battery level indicator, before the attempt it read full charge. After, the indicator was in the middle. Back inside, I hook it up to charge it again, it reads low.

GM road side assistance showed up with a much beefier version of a portable battery source, and the car started up immediately.

This unit is one year old, so I am guessing that the internal battery just does not last, or can not actually supply the starting current that it claims.

Just a big beautiful paper weight. Go for a much beefier unit, or perhaps one with lithium ion batteries. Better yet, just subscribe to a road side assistance plan.

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My battery wouldn't hold a charge and I used this every day for 4 months to start my car and it exceeded my expectations. I never expected it to last that long, but with charging once every 3 weeks or so it worked fine. Small, portable, and much easier than jumper cables. Highly recommended.

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I use it to start my lawn mower and cars if necessary. So far, it has been working well. It is much better off for me to have this battery pack than buying a dedicated battery for my lawn mower. A great product!

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4 Buttons Keyless Remote Key Case Shell For Nissan No Chips Inside FCC ID: KBRASTU15

The dimensions are not same as the original key case. The buttons are good enough but it will not hold the battery in its place correctly.

Easy to replace broken shell case but shell pops open too easily and lost remote board. Found the

boards later in garage but did not work anymore. Purchased full remote and easy instructions to reprogram

which is better option then buying this shell.

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Not the right case for my 2006 Nissan. Wish it would have been more specific. Waste of money, thank goodness it was only $8 not worth sending back.

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This is perfect to replace a broken keyless remote and its a lot cheaper than if you had to order one from the dealer

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Stanley PC509 500 Watt Inverter

First off PRO'sThe unit is a clean design with a nice touch of "screw on" power source nodes so you can create your own power source tap.

CON'sWorthless because of the safety switch.

In a power inverter, you would expect some loss to the output rating based on your power source. The unit is rated as being able to output 500w on a direct 12v battery terminal as the source. I found the unit struggling to keep up with a 200w coffee maker, designed for low wattage usage for camping and diverse applications. Never-mind if you want to run a 75w laptop on the inverter while in 100w mode (using the cigarette lighter as power source). This unit's safety power overload whatever function is too sensitive, it is ridiculous as i try to balance turning on the unit and plugging my devices into the unit to see how it will function.

I bought it, tried it for a weekend and returned it to Lowes. I will not buy another Stanley electronic device because of this unit.

I use a lot of inverters to power various electronics when on the road. Most often it is for laptops, camera, and various charging units.

The Stanley PC509 is a decent unit. The two sockets are conveniently placed on the front of the unit. Though not quite enough space to accomodate two power bricks, the placement is more convenient than other units. There is also a USB charging plug so that smaller electronics such as cell phones, Point-and-Shoot cameras, iPods, etc., can be charged with just a USB cable. This more than makes up for the spacing of the plugs. The sockets also have covers which is a nice touch.

There are some minor downsides. First, the unit is much larger than comparable rated units. It's too large to fit in the center console of my car so ended up on the floor. Not a big deal, but the other downside is that the fan is quite loud. The fan doesn't run continuously, but when it does, is quite noticeable even when on the highway.

Other things to note:

1) The cigarette adapter will not power the unit to the full capacity. Though rated at 500W, the cigarette adapters on most cars top out at around 120W. Direct battery connect cables are provided, but if you don't anticipate using it attached to the battery, go with a lower rated unit and save $30.

2) Even without load, this thing will pull power from your battery. I'm not certain if this is true for all inverters, but I almost drained my battery when I left the inverter plugged in.

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I've had the unit about one week and have been using it to power a laptop. I have mine tapped directly into a live circuit of my vehicle's wiring. This was a major pain in the butt, but I wasn't sure how well it would run off the cigarette lighter.

Cons: I've been having the same problem as David. Sometimes the unit goes into protect mode when I start my vehicle. Yes, this is annoying. Thankfully, I have the unit installed within easy reach, so I can live with the problem... but still annoying. Sometimes it takes several tries to get the unit running again. The fan is also a little noisy, but it rarely runs when I'm using it, so far.

Pros: Key things I like about the overall design and layout of the inverter:

1. Angled receptacles

2. USB charging port

3. Front mounted rocker / power switch, so I can easily turn off the unit when not in use.

Those were the selling points for me, compared with other products on the market. Also the price... $40 at the local big box home improvement center.

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projects...I bought two of these for my windmill. I have a 24v windmill goes to two batteries thus invert to ac current. My lab top went crazy once in a while and the mouse got really sensitive. So I use them for lighting and radio or hopefully to charge my ev car in the future.

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I used this unit to power various AC devices in a U-Haul truck during a cross-country journey (a small boom-box, laptop PC, camera charger). The total load was less than 200 watts.

Every time I cranked the truck, the unit tripped and was dead. I had to turn it off and back on, and about half the time it would not trip again (eventually, after cycling it enough times, the power light would stay green and we were good to go, though sometimes I had to cycle it seven or eight times).

I attached the unit directly to the battery using the (very short) cables provided. That means the unit has to be under the hood if you want to use the provided battery cables. I had a power strip in the cab, and ran the connection to the inverter. So, every time I cranked the truck, I had to get out, raise the hood, and cycle the unit (often multiple times). That got really annoying each time I had to stop for gas, or to grab a meal, or when starting out for the day.

It did not matter if there was any load attached, either when cranking the truck or when cycling the unit with the truck running (I unplugged the power strip no difference).

Also, the mounting for the posts that attach the unit to the power source (either the battery or cigarette lighter) were both broken if you push on them, they would disappear into the unit. I had to be very careful when attaching the power wires so that the posts would not become inaccessible.

When it was working, it was great. But it was hard to get it working.

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Intelligent Dual Purpose DC Vehicle and AC Home Wall Charger for the TomTom Go 910 - Two critical f

• State of the art, advanced circuitry prevents the TomTom Go 910 from being damaged by power surges, overcharging and/or short-circuiting.
• Intelligent circuit tailors precise output voltage (including resistor configuration) specific to the TomTom Go 910. This ensures battery is safely and efficiently charged.
• Broad input voltage range of 12-24VDC and 100-240VAC respectively. Permits charging via vehicle and home outlets worldwide!
• Provides a unique combination of both a Rapid Car Charger and a Rapid Wall Charger in one light and compact design
• Non-coiled, straight cable design allows for easy routing around your vehicle trim for a more professionally installed look. Durable construction is built to last.

The images for this product are fairly misleading. This charger does NOT directly plug into a GO 910 GPS. This will only plug into an existing dock station (ex: windshield mount). I e-mailed the seller after receiving this item to ask why it wouldn't plug directly into my device and didn't receive a response. I then looked up the tech support phone number on their website, called & found out that way. This product was not the dock replacement I was looking for (since mine broke). Seller should update product images.

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I ordered this item and received it very quickly. I have used it several times now, without any complaints. I really like to 2 in 1 feature, having less items to mess with when I need to charge my TomTom 910.

Stinger 4 Gauge Crimp Style Ring Terminal 2 Pair

• Accepts direct connection of 4 gauge power wires
• Corrosion Resistant Gold Plating - High Power Delivery
• 5/16 Ring Opening
• Very heavy duty. Can be used for audio, marine and any underhood wiring.
• 2 red and 2 black protective terminal covers

The thing that stood out the most to me was the fact that the ring terminals are connected at the round, where the wire is crimped. Often ring terminals are not fused, causing the crimp action to split the terminal round. I was easily able to crimp 4gauge wire, and solder the connection using a torch. The metal is a bit flimsy, but the ring is easy bent back straight after you crimp down the wire.

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Works fine, plastic protectors are just ok, great price. I would buy again but I recommend using shrink wrap for the ends instead.

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These are HUGE rings; you can almost fit a pinkie in the size of the holes. Great product; made from an audio manufacture "Stinger" so they should work fine. Haven't installed yet, still waiting for the amp to come in so I can place them onto the Farad I have. In all, if you have money to buy these...do so

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These work for low-impact installs. Would not recommend using these at your battery terminals (at fuse or capacitor should be fine).

JMO, I thought the metal to be way too thin. When I crimped them, I thought I might have broken them (really thin).

But, they are still holding up with no issues. I just feel more comfortable with a sturdy terminal.

Looks great!!

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I chose to cut one of these in half at the end and grid the sides down, because I wanted to see if they were real down to the core. They are real gold, after grinding the one in half it was gold plated all the way through the core. I used the 0 gauge on my fuse box going to the battery and for my alternator going to the battery. As well as my capacitor. The zero gauge wire fits perfect. In order to crimp them down on the wire you will have to tap them with a hammer or use good pair of pliers. I'm sure theirs other connectors out their like DB, but you will pay more and their all the same and what it boils down to is the quality of the connector and not down sizing your wire to make it fit. Best thing about these is I know without a doubt the power transfer through my 0 or 8 gauge wire is getting directly through whats it's connected too.

I would recommend these to any car stereo professional.

Black 12V 26AH 925 Watts NB/T3 Audio System Battery replaces Genesis NP24-12

Unfortunately they are heavier by 1.5 lb each than original in Gavin HDPE 26ah DPV (medium scooter). DPV was too negative after a replacement. Trey recommended different batteries from the same manufacturer but they cost $180 each and supposed to match the weight. To save almost $100 I added 1ft long 2x4 stock lumber piece to scooter to compensate for a buoyancy shift and it works fine. I even took and advantage of that wood board you can use it as a camera attachment platform.

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HELLA 706729011 Replacement Key for Battery Master Switch

I recommend this key to anyone that needs one. The cost is cheap and it is a simple install. Great purchase.

Unlike the generic battery switches, Hella switches don't come with a spare key. I ordered one of these just in case. "Better to have and not need than need and not have."

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Used it in another brand switch and it worked fine. Hard to find just the key and price seems high, but I needed a spare.

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I bought this item as a spare key for my KZ Spree RV, as I added a battery on/off switch to stop battery drainage during storage. The key works just fine.

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I needed an extra because the device only came with one plastic key. It fits, it works, it does what I needed...what could be improved?

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Garmin Vehicle Power Cable

• Cigarette lighter adapter for automotive use
• For Garmin eTrex Vista C
• For Garmin eTrex Legend C
• For Garmin eTrex Vista 24 MB GPS with Compass and Altimeter

No matter how much I want continuous power to my Garmin I just can't pay that much for a little power cable that costs probably $1 to make. It's the principle of it.

Instead I did some research and discovered a nifty little item called a USB car adapter for as low as two dollars! then I can just use the USB cord that came with the unit! Only the wires needed for supplying power are used and not those for the data (they are separate wires in the cord). For more info do a search on Wikipedia for USB, and Goggle and right here at Amazon for USB car chargers.

I found a great dual charging unit elsewhere for $15 including shipping. With the dual unit I can charge my eTrex Vista HCx and phone or PDA, both at the same time. Just make sure the power output is 4.75 to 5.25V, that's the USB power specification. All but one of the units I found where in the proper power range though one was 7.2V, which is too high.

BTW, the little connector at the eTrex is also a USB connecter, just a different type (shape) then you may be used to. They call it a `mini USB,' while the larger one on the other end (of the cord that came with the unit) is a `USB type A', the same you typically see for computers and flash cards. It doesn't matter though, they are just differently shaped connectors that do exactly the same thing.

Don't pay Garmin's outrageous prices. Get a USB car adapter and power your eTrex through the USB cord supplied with your unit. It's the same as when you plug your unit into your computer's USB port and the computer supplies the unit with 5V power. Enjoy

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I ordered this item from Electrogalaxy through Amazon.com and received a 110 volt power cable. I'm not sure what it would fit.

Electrogalaxy did not respond to my emails as to getting the right product or determining if the description is wrong. Instead they refunded my purchase, minus the $8 it cost to ship it back to them. This is their stated policy so if you can't trust them to send the right product, don't buy from them.

In short, I'm $8 in the hole with nothing to show for it, other than the knowledge to not buy from this company.

I would recommend you email the company before purchasing this item to verify what you are getting.

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Works fine with my Vista HCx, just way overpriced!

But, it allows the use of the GPS in the car without using your batteries, and is great for turning up the brightness, as others have noted.

Garmin really does need to think some things through however. Both their AC and DC adapters are just that, adapters. The Vista HCx GPS I use accepts rechargeable batteries, but neither of their adapters are designed to charge batteries, but only to supply voltage to operate?! Kind of short-sighted on their part.

Good product, but I'm deducting points for price, and being unable to function as a charger.

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I have two of these things. When used with a car lighter outlet, they cause my Legend Cx to overheat. When used with a true 12v. power source, they work fine. Most cars actually run at about 13.6 to 14 volts instead of 12. Garmin is trying hard to help me resolve this, but in the meantime, be aware that certain units may experience problems with this system.

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It's fine as a charger but I wish Garmin had designed it as a standard 1 pin charger and placed the access point at he base of the unit not the top rear. Horrible placement. Also cord is way too long and is difficult to get the charger into the usb port. I am also concerned that the constant opening and closing of the rubber flat the waterproofs the usb port will damage it.

Whistler XTR-540 Cordless Radar Detector

• Total Band protection with selectable bands
• Low-profile alert periscopes
• Radar Signature ID (RSID)
• Cordless platform
• Intense blue text display
• Battery Operated
• 72 Point Digital Compass
• Internal Battery Charger
• Battery Voltage Gauge
• 360° Maxx Coverage

The only difference between this detector and the xtr-440 is the compass mode, which I did not find worked well when I bothered to calibrate it, which you have to re-do every time you move it from the mounted position. So now I just don't use that feature, and could have spent a bit less to skip it. Also, when you have the unit on and plugged in to DC power, it will invariably shut itself off with much beeping one hour into your drive. It's not an issue on short drives, but on any car trip of length, be ready to unplug it and plug it back in when it starts shutting itself off every hour.

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This new whistler is great!!! The fact that it is cordless makes it universal from car to motorcycle. It's charger works very well when plugged in to a power point for a short time. The XTR-540 lasts a whole week on one charge on my work commute, (approx 12 hours). Since my commute is 45 minutes to and from work, the battery saver set to 1 hour works well for me.

On the other side, this unit will detect radar alot further than the eye can see, if it alarms, you better believe it.

Buy it!!! for the money, it's the best on the market. It's better than my last $400.00 Escort that was stolen.

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I bought this for my girlfriend's car that I drive from time to time. It alerts the user to threats through the audible alert system, but it is hard to remember the different sounds, which is why it is great to be able to visually see what the threat is. The problem with this device is that in the day time, you can not see the screen AT ALL! No matter if you change the brightness of the screen or change the viewing angle, it is impossible to see what threats are in the area. At night, you can see it ok, but it is still not up to the quality I believe it should have. Final review....spend your money on a different radar detector (I wish I would have returned it, but was too busy to deal with the problem).

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I've had the XTR-540 for about a week now, and so far, so good. Nice display, nice suction cup mount. Minimum number of false alarms. Fairly intuitive setup and menu system. Seems to be holding a charge fairly long. Nice compact size for a cordless unit.

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Just purchased and used on a 2500mi round trip through various states. Once I learned the settings and set the unit up how I wanted, it performed well. Only drawback was the amount of battery time consumed. However, with modified settings I can probably improve battery life time.

Portable Car Lock Alarm with Remote

I ordered this lock for my car. It did not securely fit on the steering wheel (it slid side to side). The siren also did not work, buyer beware the photo does look impressive but don't waste your money. Even through this device was defective the seller "Fulfill Direct", will not reimburse the $12.70 return shipping fee I spent. They have six different names for this product, in one posting they say it's by 1.) Security Wizard for $39. 2.) by Safety for $34. 3.) by Cepi for $42. 4.)Remote 200CLA08R-LTC for $59. 5.) by Swatt Lock for $44.39 6.) by Grade A for $39 They are all the same junky product!!!

This senior finally happy, After grandson figured it out. Bought 2. Wouldn't stop a real thieve, but will help with the low lives around here.

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Corvette Battery Disconnect Switch Side Post

I INSTALLED THIS ITEM 3 TIMES AN STILL COULD NOT GET THE POSITIVE TERMIAL TO TIGHTEN UP TO BE A GOOD CONTACT,THIS CAR IS TOTALLY RESTORED AND I WAS NOT ABOUT TO MODIFY ANYTHING TO MAKE IT WORK,I WAS INSTALLING IT ON A BRAND NEW BATTERY ALSO,MAYBE I AM INSTALLING IT WRONG BUT IT CAN NOT BE INSTALLED ON THE NEGITIVE SIDE.I HAVE BOUGHT FROM THESE PEOPLE BEFORE AND NEVER HAD PROBLEM WITH THEIR ITEMS BEFORE? 52 YEARS IN THE AUTO BUSINESS TURNING WRENCHES!!!

BLACK80VETTE40

Stinger Shoc-Krome Series GM Battery Terminal (Standard Length)

• Side post battery tap
• Fits positive or negative battery post
• For GM type batteries
• Genuine Stinger Shoc-Krome finish
• Lifetime Warranty

This is for only 1 terminal and it will be in Shoc-Krome color, not gold.

It's not perfectly clear how many or what color you're getting so I thought I would elaborate on it.

They are made in China of course but the quality is very nice.

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This is a great product, good quallity and price, delievery was as advertised. I would purchase from this vendor again.

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What can I say about these? They're just screws basically. They're pretty and they screw. Is that too risque for Amazon? LOL

Sirius radio 5v cigarette lighter car power cord adapter 5v

There isn't enough information in the description. It just says fits "newer" Sirius models. Well, the SDST5V1 Starmate 5 is a newer Sirius model and this power cord does not fit the SDST5V1's power dock.

Item broke after about 3 months, the cord is made out of cheap plastic and it ripped right at the point where the cord meats the adapter for the cigarette lighter. FYI I thought that this thing might actually light up or something, because of the plastic see through top there, it doesn't. Just in case any of you were wondering about that.

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I wasn't getting power to my Sirius sat radio. I determined it was the charger. After going to numerous radio shacks to be told they don't have one but they would be willing to sell me a new radio with all the accessories I went to the Amazon site and boom there it was.It works as expected and was inexpensive.

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Shipped fast. Worked, which is always good. Learned that plugging and unplugging from power port is probably the action that ruined my power cord in the first place. So, leave the power cord plugged in if you know that it won't drain your battery...probably wont on newer models.

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Its nice to know that you can order online and get exactly what you paid for. This made my week and now I can listen to my XM Radio in the car I just purchased.

Associated Equipment 6006 6/12/24V 70/65/30 Amp Charge 280 Amp Cranking Assist Charger with Wheels

I purchased this charger because of its versatility and durability (Heavy Duty).

It is a great charger except for one deplorable thing! It has heavy plastic insulation on the cables and electrical cord! They are so stiff you would think it was crap from China, and that's just at 50 degrees F. I have no idea how much more contemptable they'll be when the weather REALLY gets COLD, when a person generally most often needs a charger. So if you want flexible cables get one with rubber insulation.......yeh right, like anyone nowadays bothers to tell you that or even mention the type of insulation. If it gives me problems at 25 degrees below F., I will probably swap them out with #3 or #4 welding cable, and if I do, they will will be 3 feet longer, to reach high up on my old tractors.

Had this charger the aforementioned excellent cable insulation, I would readily give it 5 Stars. This charger does not have all the bells and whistles, to go haywire, plain, simple, durable, and will hopefully last 20 plus years easily, as long as no dummy goes and touches/sparks the charging clamps together! (Knocks the sap out of and dramatically shortenes the life of the rectifier(s).

I hope someone at Associated reads and fixes this, until they do I will have to recommend Century brand made in Minnesota....it gets cold there, they know. One would want to make sure about the cable insulation first, though.

My Matco (made by them) lasted 28 years, with only 2 recifier replacements, now not to be had) Don't get me wrong, Associated is good American built product, it is just a shame they cut a corner. lssmonikeratyahoodotcom

We have a lot of Equipment that are 24 volt systems and this just what we needed to service them. I would reccomend this to other customers.

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