Battery Tender Cigarette Lighter Adapter 081-0069-5

I have several of these lighter adapters and they work great with the Battery Tender Plus. Many car manufactures have their cigarette lighters controlled by their ignition. So when the key is off the lighter is not functional. That is not the fault of the battery charger company. This is the design of the vehicle.

I use this in my BMW's. Otherwise, ya gotta smash the cord in the trunk or disconnect the trunk light which never turns off in my BMW E39 models. Just crack a window, plug this baby in, run the cord through the window, & presto chargo... trickle charge away using a Battery Tender Plus 1.25 amps.

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This little neat tool lives in my battery tender pouch, and I use it for keeping the odometer and radio stations and clock when changing batteries. I live in AZ so with 4 cars it seems like I'm always changing batteries. On most cars you have to turn to accessories, 1st click, plug this in, and then change the battery. Great quality as all the other battery Tender products. I can highly recommend all the models. My favorite is the water proof 800ma...that thing is indestructible! I've accidentally run it over with my truck, no damage! Also, get a 6 or 12' extension, they are cheap and SO handy! BTW, the 800 works overseas 120-240 with just a cheap plug changer....my dad keeps one in his humid garage and always plugs the cars in during the winter! NEVER a starting problem.

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The cigarette lighter adapter for the Battery Tender allows one to plug the unit into the cigarette lighter inside of the vehicle to keep the vehicle battery charged. Without it, I had to unlatch and raise the hood of the car, and then connect the Battery Tender by some "alligator clips" to the car battery. This is a handy device that is easy to use and saves one the hassle of having to raise the hood and connect the Battery Tender to the automobile battery. 'Get one!

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Works very well with tthe battery tender device. I used it bor my Bimmer that had been in the garage for more than 6 months, so far so good.

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AIMS PWRIC150012S 1500 Watt Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter with Battery Charger, 12 Volt

• USB Port and dual AC receptacles that can be used with any separate splitter for even more outlets
• Rapid and automatic transfer switch for seamless power transfer
• Built-in 10 Amp battery charge
• Volt and Amp display
• Includes port for optional remote switch

Purchased inverter from "The Inverter Store" which apparently is AIMS sales division same address. Original unit died after 4 or 5 uses but just out of warranty. Bought another of the exact same part number to match all the existing wiring and mounting points. New unit was completely different, even the amount of outlets was different; only one on this one. New unit arrived with a screw sticking 1" out the bottom. Service tech told me to screw it back in. Installed the 'new' one it did not work at all. So, AIMS no longer carries this unit it's still in warranty so they are refunding my money BUT NOT THE RETURN SHIPPING. I asked how they could expect customers to pay for returning a product that had manufacturing defects and they said: "That's our policy."

DO NOT WALK BUT RUN AWAY FROM AIMS INVERTERS. They are absolute junk.

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This was the 2nd one (first one had defective charger). Will never buy an AIMS again The circuit board fried, before blowing either of the 20 amp fuses.

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Just want say that the Aims and ConverterStore Customer Service support rocks. Had to call in for confirmation i was wiring the camp trailer main panel 120V feed to inverter and inverter feed to subpanel 110v correctly. the team was very helpful and and the product is fullfilling my expectations. Very Happy.

Stanley J309 300 Amp Jump Starter

Awesome! Plenty of jump start power. Purchased 1 from Amazon & another from my local hardware store(same model). Used 4 times in the last few days on our fleet vehicles. Cars/trucks/vans...no problems. Charging is easy on this model, just plug it in with an ordinary household AC extension cord or use the DC adapter supplied. Also, this unit has an on/off switch. My old one didn't so the terminals were 'HOT' all the time. Life saver device, well worth the bucks!

I bought this jumper to jump my motorcycle. The battery goes dead every winter and I am not in an area where I would be able to keep the battery charged over the winter (I am forced to park the thing out on the street). Anyway, this jumper works great I plugged it in, let it charge for a day (although I don't think it requires a full day to charge) and jumped my bike right up the battery on my bike was completely dead prior to the jump. Very easy, no problems.

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Nice features, well constructed. I plug it in to charge it up once a month. (more often than suggested) I let it charge for two full days when I charge it, indicators read full charge.

I needed to use it today because my car battery finally died (6 years old). I plugged the Stanley in to top up the charge, let it top up for two hours. Indicator showed full charge. Tried to start the car. Nothing. I could see sparks when I attached the battery, so I know there was juice, but just not enough to turn over the 6 cylinder engine.

The Stanley unit has a battery level indicator, before the attempt it read full charge. After, the indicator was in the middle. Back inside, I hook it up to charge it again, it reads low.

GM road side assistance showed up with a much beefier version of a portable battery source, and the car started up immediately.

This unit is one year old, so I am guessing that the internal battery just does not last, or can not actually supply the starting current that it claims.

Just a big beautiful paper weight. Go for a much beefier unit, or perhaps one with lithium ion batteries. Better yet, just subscribe to a road side assistance plan.

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My battery wouldn't hold a charge and I used this every day for 4 months to start my car and it exceeded my expectations. I never expected it to last that long, but with charging once every 3 weeks or so it worked fine. Small, portable, and much easier than jumper cables. Highly recommended.

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I use it to start my lawn mower and cars if necessary. So far, it has been working well. It is much better off for me to have this battery pack than buying a dedicated battery for my lawn mower. A great product!

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Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer - Memory #1 With Do-It-Yourself Pro

I received this in a couple of days. Web site instructions to re-program the new fob and old one were given. Easy to do. I now have two working fobs.

I would have rated this product excellent, however, I received two remotes instead of one. It had more to do with an Amazon issue than anything else. In completing a second order, Amazon apparently added this order back in a second time. Price was so low, it was cheaper to keep the second one instead of ship it back.

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I thought, not buying from a Dealer would be a problem. Great buy and easy to program, follow easy instructions.

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Yamaha 13-Inch ATV Remote Control

I knew that this was the right toy for my grandkids when they ran it down a full flight of stairs on its maiden voyage---it survived with flying colors! This thing is indestructible, and has survived dozens and dozens of crashes and still runs perfectly!

Don't expect things like incremental steering and variable throttle for 20 dollars. The throttle is essentially an on/off switch, so one must "bump" the throttle to control the speed in forward and reverse. Same with the steering: it's either full left or full right, with a detent to keep it going straight. The details and scale of the toy is quite remarkable. The driver is easily removed from the ATV and can be dressed in 1:6 doll clothes if you desire. The 4 AAA batteries last for quite some time. I also appreciate the fact that the 4 rubber tires hit the furniture before the body parts, saving both the ATV and the furniture from damage.

I can't believe the two other reviewers: One complains that it's too slow, and the other that they paid too much! (As if the latter has anything to do with quality.) This toy is 20 bucks at Wal-Mart; did you expect a high-end gas-powered RC car?

All in all, this is an excellent choice for a child's RC car: durable, reliable, sturdy, and attractive.

We got this for my 4-year-old for Christmas and so far its been great. Its not too fast for him and not to slow. The plastic piece that holds the antenna did break off at the fender, but we just bent it forward under the handlebar on one side and it still gets a great signal. Have not tried it outside yet, but it works great in the house and the r/c control is just the right size for his little hands.

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i bought 2 of these. they are so weak they can't climb a 1 degree incline. they barely go at all. they are a joke. what a waste of money!

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XAct XS027 Sirius Satellite Radio Portable Boombox with CD Player and AM/FM Tuner

• Satellite radio boombox for XAct XTR1 plug-and-play Sirius satellite radio receiver
• Front docking slot holds receiver and delivers access to Sirius' 120 satellite stations
• Top-loading CD player with 45-second shock protection supports CD-R/RW and MP3 discs
• Digital AM/FM tuner with 10 presets; attached 4-inch full-range speakers (5 watts x 2)
• Works with 8 D-size batteries; measures 20.8 x 10.2 x 5.25 inches (W x H x D); 1-year warranty

I purchased two of these units and found that the volume function on the remote does not work on either unit. I contacted XACT (which was a huge hassle) and talked to supervisor after supervisor and the only explanation they could give me to why the volume could not be adjusted from the remote was that " it was manufactured that way"... are you kidding, i had stereo's 20 years ago that had a remote that could control volume. Other than that the unit is fine, but I just feel a state of the art "deluxe" boom box should be able to adjust the voulume via the remote. Why else would you waste 2 buttons on the tiny remote. It is just a pain to have to physically increase or decrease the volume manually.

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Must I give this unit 1 star? It deserves ZERO stars.

I purchased XACT model XS027 Boom Box from BEST BUY. The AM/FM "radio" in this model is pure junk. I have been a broadcaster and electronics product design engineer for over 30 years. Typically in a radio receiver design you have to choose between good selectivity (ability to select one channel and reject adjacent channels) and good sensitivity (ability to receive weak broadcasts). The fact that the XS027 does not have an external FM antenna (nor AM antenna) was surprising. I figured that perhaps it had a little bit better RF amplification and therefore would perform just as well. Combine that with the fact I live in the Northern California (Sacramento area) where there are an abundant number of 50K Watt stations on the air, I the last thing I expected was not being able to pick up a very strong local station.

But to my dismay, the AM/FM receiver design in the XS027 is pathetic. I can get some channels even though I am selected as much as 300KHz+ off frequency. For example KHWD 93.7 comes in just as good when the receiver is tuned to 93.4, 93,5, 93.6, 93.7 or 93.8 MHz. And it is not the only station to do that. And I am NOT even close to their transmitter(s).

Then there is KSEG 96.9; which I can not receive at all. I am in their grade A area, but their signal will not lock in on the XS027. KSEG's signal is "best" on the XS027 when I tune to 96.7. EVERY other receiver I have (including some that cost less than $10) pick them up just fine (on 96.9).

What gives? NO sensitivity AND NO selectivity????

Oh I suppose you really dont care about the AM/FM receiver since you figured that everyone would just use the satellite receiver. Well there is a slight bit of truth to that, but there are issues there too. I was out in the forest recently; a good distance away from any terrestrial transmissions. I was down in a canyon and unable to pull in anything on AM/FM (no surprise). Sirius came in just fine. But if I turned the volume up too high, without warning, the satellite receiver simply powered OFF. Once off, the load on the batteries was removed and so the satellite receiver powered back on. On and off like a flasher. Obviously if the batteries are not brand spanking new there is not enough power to operate the satellite receiver. But I used the same set of (dead) batteries to play CDs (at least when they'd play) for well over a week at a fairly high volume.

The CD player is not without its problems either. The spec claims to have a 45 second ESP, but even with the unit sitting solid on a table operating from AC power, CDs often skip, jump or stop playing altogether.

After all these troubles I decided that I must have a bad unit. Then I found out the same unit was on sale at Costco. So I returned my unit to Best Buy and bought an entirely new unit from Costco. The new unit works so identical to the prior unit it is scary. ALL of the same problems, right down to not being able to receive KSEG.

I had a conversation with some PR people from Sirius about this and they directed me to write to the manufacturer, US Electronics in New York. I wrote to them several months ago and did not receive any response. This design is so bad that it can not even be used for the purpose for which it was sold. To me that seems like a case for the FTC.

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I've had the XM Delphi boombox for two years now. Today I bought the XS027 for a friend.

I too was frustrated with the volume control on my remote with the boombox. They need to put a info sticker on the remote. I have had equipment where the remote turned the volume knob with a motor. I like this type of analog volume control. I'm assuming the volume works with the car and home kits.

I think the box sounds really good. The inclusion of the radio and CD player is a plus for those very rare occasions. CD plays MP3 too. The aux is jack is something usually not included in products like this. Nice to see it and a rear line out jack on this product.

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The fact that XACT shipped this boombox without supporting the volume function on the remote is criminal. Basically I spent $130 for a pair of speakers. And now everytime I want to adjust the volume I have to walk across the room.

It's pretty neat the way the designed the box to 'flip' from satellite mode to fm/cd mode.

The cd player / radio are junk. Do not buy this item if you want to use it for anything other than satellie. The lcd display is tiny, not backlit, and hard to read. The radio doesn't even have a scan or seek function. I think they hired the cheapest engineer they could find to design the radio and CD because there was zero thought put into it. I could probably give our company intern a hundred bucks and a soldering iron and get something more innovative.

Another frustrating issue is that you cannot use a "universal" car type antenna with this unit. Yes, I know it comes with a home antenna but if you have an extra car antenna laying around and want to ever use it (say you permanently mounted the home antenna on your roof and want to listen to Sirus at your neighbors bbq with your car antenna) you are SOL unless you want to do what I did and hack the back of the unit up with a sharp knife so you can plug the antenna in.

All that said I am overall satisfied with it. For the money I would expect a nicer speaker setup than cardboard 4" full range but the sound is pretty decent and it looks cool hanging on my wall.

This radio is only good for Sirius. The CD player works on a whim and the controls are so tiny it was like they were designed for a mouse. The remote has never worked, even for selecting stations. No FM/AM reception and I live in a major metropolitan area on the east coast. It is far too big and bulky just for the Sirius part. I kept it tucked in a dark corner its infrequent usage warrants.My only regret about the review is that I cannot give it no stars.

Dc Car Power Adapter for Haier Portable Dvd Player Pdvd7 Pdvd770 Pdvd771 Pdvd790 Craig Ctft701 Cdv5

• compact
• 100% compatible

I am pretty happy with this purchase, it looks pretty stylish having your iPod suspended in the air like that from your cigarette lighter. Only problem was I'm not sure about the remote control, seems a little flimsy and I can't get it to work, no bother though.

Husky Liners Custom Fit Heavy Duty Front Floor Mat for Select Ford/Nissan/Lincoln Models (Black)

PROS:

made in USA

heavy duty

flexible rubber

deep grooves

custom fit

CONS:

Amazon never seems to have the correct item number, never use "find parts that fit your vehicle" always go to company website, I used Huskeyliner.com to get my item number.

installed in a 2010 Ford F150 regular cab

Pretty nice. One complaint would be that they have the tabs on them for in-store hanging, that you have to cut off with scissors or a razor blade and it doesn't leave the smoothest of edges--kind of annoying. Otherwise pretty nice.

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After years of debating which replacement mats to buy, I finally got these. They seem to be better than the factory mats.

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My new Husky floor mats fit perfect into my 2010 F-150 Lariat and they look great. everything i expected and the item shipped fast. much better than the stock floor mats

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Replaced OEM rubber mats that fit like a glove. These seem to be made well, but the fit is more towards a universal mat.

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GOLF CART PUSH PULL HEADLIGHT SWITCH

i like this product cause it is what i was looking for, i a switch that came with a product i bought but i broke it and was glad to find a replacement.. it was exactly what i needed and works perfectly...

bought this to replace existing switch, works great so far.

good cost. would recomend.

recieved the switch in short time.

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CES 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness

• 10 Gauge Wire For Heavy Current Applications
• Polorized Molded Connector (Red and Black Wire)

First off these connectors appear to be pretty good quality. The connectors easily connect and disconnect and are snug enough that I do not fear them coming apart on their own.

Each harness is actually two plugs connected together with a red and black wire. So while you get about twelve inches of wire with the harness you'll really only get about six inches connected to each plug. Right now though that's my only complaint, which isn't much of one as for my application I am easily able to splice each plug onto a longer cable.

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I bought a bunch of these six months ago at least, to use in my pet project solar system, that I am always working on and expanding. I really liked the convenience of the disconnect feature and wanted only number ten gauge wire. And this had the right gauge. I also found several in-line ATC 10 gauge wire fuse holders that work really well. However they started heating up on me and I didn't notice it right away!

I noticed in the reviews that some people were having trouble finding the fuse holders in 10 gauge. Try "The Install Bay" ATFH10C-10; WTRPRF ATC FSEHLD 10 GA W/C 10. These are the ten pack, but they are available individually as well. Alternately Ancor

Marine Grade Products Fuse Holders Amps 30 Style ATO/ATC INLINE; Part #607023

Anyway, I have been using these quick disconnects as leads into and out of my Sunsaver Mppt 15Amp Solar Controller. And I also wired them to two different battery banks, plus my solar panels lead in wires, basically on every piece of equipment in my system, though not to any of the fuse 10 gauge inline wires obviously.

I started having some strange problems where the Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT was skipping over the bulk charge phase and going into absorption almost right away. Battery voltage would be only 13.05 volts but the Sunsaver battery terminals were reading at 13.85V.

I was running about 150 watts in from the panels and that was very low. They added up to 220 watts nominal. And the 150 number was only at peak radiance levels.

I was using a Dr Watt meter that I connected using these quick disconnects into my battery out cables to try and find the problem.

I checked everything, cleaned the three deep cycle batteries that I had wired in parallel. Checked each solar module for voltage power at the box and at each end. Everything seemed good.

Finally I also upped the thickness of my battery interconnect cables to 4 gauge.

Still had the Sunsaver misreading the battery voltages. I figured it had to be a possible ground fault somehow feeding back to the Sunsaver and spoofing it into thinking the voltage was much higher then it really was.

If this is lengthy it's because I want to explain the processes i went through before i make the complaints. I had crimped connectors But didn't solder as I don't really know how to do that well.

Finally just touching the plastic housing of the quick disconnect on my battery lead out which connected to my battery cables I discovered that the plastic housing was burning hot. At only 120 watts solar input, 13.10 volt input. Output I mean.

Trying the quick disconnect on a brand new Samlex Power 15AMP Charger I got the same heat overload. Looking into the plastic housings of all of my disconnects you can see that the male pole is made from simply thin hollow tin. and so is the female side as well. The wires are 10gauge but the actual connectors look like 16 gauge at best! Real cheap stuff that they are using.

So I tried a bunch of different ways to connect them up and no matter how I did it, they still are getting so hot especially at the 130-200watt 12volt level, that it looks like the one I was using as the connect to my battery out terminals on the Sunsaver may have melted a bit and some bleed through occurred feeding back to the Controller. I yanked all of the connectors out of the system and presto! The Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT started working perfectly, and all problems went away! Really lucky that Morningstar builds such a wonderfully sturdy device that it wasn't harmed by the current feedback loop.

Now I don't have any disconnects at all and I really miss them. If anyone has any suggestions please send me a comment. I am thinking of switching over to the PowerPole system, but really am starting to hate all of these additional costs and over spending!

Oh, lastly, I never had any problems matching up positive with positive and negative with negative. It's really simple to remember that each loop needs each side wired as they are when you first get them.

Read Best Reviews of CES 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness Here

I bought this to be able to connect and quick disconnect a solar panel I'm using for a portable solar power setup. Adding the proper connectors to splice wires together was all it took to add this connector in and it works great. It works great for my needs!

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This 10awg 2 pin connector can handle the load for e-bike battery to motor connections very nicely. Of course it has other uses in the car stereo market, but I decided to make all my electric motor to battery connections using this high current capacity connector and they work great. Good for 30-35 amps which is about as much as the average ebike hubmotor can put out. I will be buying more of these great value connectors in the near future for my next ebike project.

Lately I have sent a few negative reviews (below 3) and have noticed that Amazon will summarily dump them. I can only guess that suppliers have infiltrated convinced them that this is not good for business. For folks that have noticed this peculiarity you might pass it on.

Pyle PLCM7200 7-Inch TFT Mirror Monitor with Rearview Night Vision Camera

• 7'' TFT (16:9)Wide Screen - Viewing Angle:U/D90° L/R120° - License Plate Mount
• Universal Clip on Existing Mirrors - Power Comsumption:6W - Anti Glare Mirror
• Wireless Remote Control - Auto Switch PAL/NTSC - Screen Dimensions: 10.19''W x4.25''H x 1.81''D
• Resolution:480xRGBx234 - Dual Video Input(DVD/CAMERA/GAME) - Camera Dimensions: 8.46'' W x1.29''H x 1.37''D
• Contrast Ratio:400 CD/M2 - Rearview Night Vision Camera
• 7-inch TFT LCD display
• Viewing Angle:U/D90° L/R120° - License Plate Mount; Universal Clip on Existing Mirrors - Power Comsumption:6W - Anti Glare Mirror
• Wireless Remote Control - Auto Switch PAL/NTSC - Screen Dimensions: 10.19''W x4.25''H x 1.81''D
• Resolution:480xRGBx234 - Dual Video Input(DVD/CAMERA/GAME) - Camera Dimensions: 8.46'' W x1.29''H x 1.37''D
• Contrast Ratio:400 CD/M2 - Rearview Night Vision Camera

Before install the directions are garbage so look at them once and toss it. It's a pretty simple connection though red= positive, black= negative, green= brake line & the other is obvious video. Installing the back-up camera was of course easy: unscrew the license plate boom your done. Camera power cable just taps into your rear power line from the lights: Check voltage: and run the ground to a good spot and your camera is done. Running the wires was not too much fun but still not too bad just invest in some zip ties to secure the line. Of course mounting the unit on the already there mirror is easy. You sort of have 2 choices on the power: either go with an accessory line as long as you get 12 volts, below that equals a crappy picture. Or you can run the power to your battery and have the choice to turn it off and on every time you get in and out of the car. Please connect it to an ACC power line it will be so much easier. I just ran the ground under the dash where there were other ground wires: easy. Okay got the easy stuff done. Hardest part: Location of your brake wires. Luckily it's usually black and pink. And if you're lucky and have a trailer set up you can just connect into that line under hood or dash and good luck under the dash. Connected my video cables and battery put my ignition in the start position without starting the motor: put her in reverse and boom a nice bright view behind me in the Day Light. After snugging everything down and double checking everything to be on the safety 3rd side it was time to give it a test. During the day it works great and I have a nice clear picture behind me. One thing I noticed is that it doesn't have a too good of a peripheral vision to my right or left but it is acceptable. Okay NIGHT TEST: Went to the Grocery store put it in reverse backing up, Camera was pretty good but keep in mind that is in a well lit up area, I could see clearly behind me people, cars or whatever else would of been there. Now for my NIGHT time parking area: Camera NOT so great dam near a black display, those little LED's just don't have enough light in a dark area to light things up properly. So NIGHT TEST FAILED in a dark area with the one light I park below. Night Vision Camera is a false statement really when you're parking in a dark area. But it did light up the bush behind me when I got about 1 foot or less away and I could see clearly once those little LED's were lighting things up. But still a FAIL in the dark: if you were backing down a dark street and had this you would not see a thing even the street.

Overall not bad for less than $100 especially the screen it's nice and big: Now to figure out everything else on it since the directions were um the crappiest I've ever seen. What's the little speaker for on the back? What are the modes I can't identify? I put this on my Ford F250 HD Get Extra wire if you have a big truck.

Oh, yeah the wire from the mirror is very short I had to run everything down the plastic runners.

A couple hours of install time was worth it. This camera will come in handy. It cost me less than $100. I had to spend some money buying extra wire. But Over all it's a pretty good deal. It's clear picture in the day and well lit up areas. Bad in the dark areas. So it's 80% good 20%bad. maybe I'll do a short video review so people can see it in action.

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I like the system. It is really cool backing up looking into the rear-view mirror and seeing everything behind the car. I feel like I can drive in reverse anywhere. I think it will really help when I am backing up my trailor. With that said, the instructions are worthless. Since they are, I will describe my installation here on a Honda Ody 2005:

1. Find a 12V power adapter (kind you plug into cigarette lighter, they come with lots of electronics so you probably have one somewhere. If not it can be purchased at RShack)/

2. Cut off the plug end that goes into the electronic item (not the end that goes into the cig lighter).

3. Splice the cut wires into the Pyle Monitor's wires (the red is power and the black is ground). On my 12V adapter, the black wire was ground and the black-with-white-stripe wire was hot.

4. I did not use the green wire and will explain later.

5. The only other wire is the yellow video connector which we will use later.

For the camera:

6. Remove all the plastic backing on the trunk hatch.

7. Remove the license plate.

8. There is a hole midway betw the lic plate mounting holes. Drill that out wider so the camera power and video cables can snake through.

9. I had to mount the camera on the bottom of lic plate (interfered with trunk latch). Snake the cables through the drilled hole and tighten everything up.

10. On the inside of trunk hatch, find the wire that feeds one of the rear back up lights. On the Ody it is green. Cut a green and ground (black) and connect to the red (hot) and black (ground) wires that connect to the camera. NOTE, these wires plug into the red coax cable coming from the camera.

11. All that's left is to connect the video from the camera to the montior and replace all the plastic you took off.

It worked like a charm (took me all day to figure this out though). I did not connect the green wire from the monitor b/c it was hard to find a backup power wire, cut it, and connect it to the green wire I did not want to cut wires in the dash area b/c it was crowded and hard to get to. But I don't miss it. I just hit the power button on the unit when I want to back up and turn it off when I am not in reverse. No big deal. Hope that makes sense.

I hope these instructions help.

11/2011 update

The mirror only lasted less than a year. It stopped giving an image. It was not wiring but the device itself. Piece of S%&%. I will never buy any of this company's products again.

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I just purchased a 2010 F250 short bed. Did not get the reverse camera option and realized I should have. Looked around Amazom and found the Pyle PLCM 7200 monitor and camera for under $100. The reviews where mid range but it seemed to be only due to the complaint that the instructions are not adequate. Well it is true that they are very very limited but considering all the variations in vehicles it is expected. Basically you need power to the camera, cable run connecting the camera in the exterior back with the monitor in the cab, and power to the monitor. So this is what I had to do.

Camera

I did not want to hook it up to the license plate holder so some fool could rip it off easily. So a placed it just behind it. There is a panel with two holes. The holes are not in a perfect location but with a metal strip from Home Depot and some bolts, it sits secured and nicely hides between the gate and the license plate.

I took a meter and checked continuity between the cables to the trailer connection and the pin out on the connector. On the F250 orange is power (+) and the big white one is return (-). The video cable they give is a little short. I had an additional 4 foot single RCA cable. With an adapter to connect them both to each other, I ran the cable along the non exhaust side to the cabin. So how to get the video into the cab? Well it so happens that on the back of the cab there are two vent openings. Pretty sweet. The cable easily fits through the vent, then you just run it along the trim to the front drivers side.

Monitor

Attaches right over the existing rear view mirror. Cable slides into where the cabin cealing meets the trim. Down to the drivers side, squeezing into trim. On the side of the dash the panel comes right off, no screws. The cable just makes it into a cavity under the dash. I have a few car power adapters from various flashlights that have died through the years so, I cut the end off of one, metered it to see which side was +, and then wired it to the power wires from the monitor. There are alot of screws to land the ground wire to in the area where the panel came off from.

Plug in the adapter, turn the Key to ACC, turn the monitor on and on Video 1 I get a nice clear picture.

I used the adapter instead of hardwiring it because it was easy. I do not have a schematic of what all the wires under the dash do.

As far as night vision, well with no lights it is dark, imagine that. With break lights and even more with reverse lights I get a descent picture. Definitely good enough to hook up a trailer at night.

The remote works nice. There are options to modify brightness, contrast, tint and even if you initialy installed the camera upside down, you can flip the view.

Update 5 16 2012. The monitor stop working..trouble shooted....purchased new camera...works sometimes but not when needed...seems to be the display unit....maybe gets to hot in the cab.??

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Nice product for such a low price. The monitor is great because it slips right over your rear view mirror. When the camera is off, the monitor serves as a rear view mirror. The monitor is set up to handle TWO cameras.

I used mine for the front bumper of my Rock Crawler Jeep so I can see the road immediately in front of the bumper for obstacles. The same company offers a much higher quality camera at a reasonable cost as well. I switched the original camera to the rear. I then mounted the higher resolution wider angle camera on the front, mounting it into a waterproof type household electric outlet box and mounting it to the lower front bumper. The original camera that comes with the set is a 160 degree camera, and can bolt onto your licence plate. The higher quality is a 180 degree camera at higher resolution, but requires some clever tricks to figure out how to mount it.

The bad side of this purchase: HORRIBLE INSTRUCTIONS. Poor customer service. I had to leave repeated messages to ask how to make it work, before I accidentally found someone who didn't know that it is OK to answer the phone. Once I found out that the camera requires a power source wire, and the monitor requires a power source wire, it was easy from then on.

I am going to buy one more of these to mount on my RV. Well worth the price.

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The camera-monitor system works OK; serves its purpose. I bought it for the large screen, hard wiring betweem camera and monitor and attractive price. Those wireless cameras are easier to install but I've read of multiple problems like interference, limited range, etc. Main problems with this one were the lack of an instruction manual and inability to handle bright lights. The system becomes paralized if camera is exposed to sunlight. Backing toward a car with its headlights on blanks part or most of the screen. I wired both camera and monitor to a plug that goes into the cigarette lighter socket. There are times when I need more than just the mirrors while going forward, like while towing a trailer, so I chose not to connect to the backup light wire. Curiously, I found no mark as to country of origin. Very surprising that is isn't Chinese. That must mean that a US manufacturer has out chinesed the Chinese. Way to go!

Whistler XTR-690SE High Performance Radar Detector

• Total Band protection with selectable bands
• Exclusive twin alert periscopes
• Intellicord-ready
• Real Voice alerts
• Enhanced High Performance with new Ka Max Mode

I purchased this radar detector about a month ago, and so far I have been impressed. At roughly $160, it is very cheap when compared to some of the other brands that are out there. The sensitivity is excellent on KA and K band. Unfortunately, in Southern California I have yet to be alerted to a K band threat that actually is a patrol car/motorcycle. KA band seems to be the only indicator of a patrol unit.

Laser has been activated many times, of these times I have used the LSID which gives the Pulse Per Second ID on the display. They have been in the 900's most of the time with one alert in the 600's. The 600 one was a police car, but the 900's were false alerts. So make sure you use LSID to make sure it is a real laser threat, especially if you drive the same route everyday.

False-alerts are a big problem with this detector though. I have driven on the freeway with this detector for a while now, and the K band alerts too frequently. Driving through random parts of the city activate a full strength K band alert at level 9, only to shut off completely half a second later. I have no idea what causes this. Of course, the occasional speed trap off to the side of the freeway will alert to a K band as well but it will steadily increase to level 9 and slowly back to level 1 (3..5..4..7..8..9...6...5...2...1.....). This shows that the source is stationary, and it normally will be a gun either on the freeway or just a few hundred feet off the side of the highway.

For the price, you can't beat all of the features though. The KA band sensitivity, especially with the KAID feature, is excellent. It picks up KA as far as the 400 dollar models, with a frequency display. In So Cal, 34.7 is the key. The red display is perfect for me, its dim enough to live with daily, though not at all bright enough to see during the day. I had the xtr-695 previously (it broke) and the color display is not necessary.

Overall a great radar detector if you're on a budget. If you aren't, save and get the Bel Sti Driver, the performance on that thing is insane, and false alerts as non-existent. I would not recommend the Passport 9500 series, there have been too many complaints with it for the money. I don't think they have perfected the GPS technology yet.

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Great features

Great KA band range (Radar Signature ID can be very helpful in distinguishing real radar threats from fakes ones)

Average K band range

Average X band range

LASER detection: fantastic

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I travel for work once or twice a month so I wanted something to carry with me and for 99.00 on sale I figured I would give it a go. I have 3 other Whistler remotes all about 8 years old I ran this unit in each car to check to see its performance, it was about the same or worse then my 8 year old Whistler remotes , K and KA were better with my older remotes they picked up the signal little quicker and after passing the moving radar this unit went quiet the remote was still getting signal. In one location there is a K band radar speed board so I know its always there so I ran them both the units each day past this radar site the radar is facing the oppposite direction of travel the remote nailed the signal almost half mile before the new one , once passed the radar the remote keeps picking up the signal good 1/4 to 1/2 mile longer then the new one. On the way back the remote again sniffed out the signal good 1/4 mile before the new unit in fact the new unit on the dash picked the signal when the radar board was clearly in site if it was real radar I would have been nailed thanks to the remote I had warning before even seeing the board

I was going to buy the Xtr 695SE it is the same unit as this one but with out the multi color display , and this is also a unit Whistler makes for walmart called 693SE all the same inside. Most reviews were pretty good its not a top of the line Bel or Escort but for cheap it works for me for travel , but I would think that the top of the line units from Whistler should be better then my 8 year old remotes maybe they didnt do any changes and just slap new form factors on the same old hardware

So my old Whistler remotes have little better sniffing power then this new one , for the price its not bad not worth more , for the higher price get a Bel or Escort I have owned both in the past and must better quality and performance but for travel if this one gets ripped off it wont hurt as much as a 500.00 Bel or Escort but again it dosnt work no where as good as those units

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I just got this less than a week ago, I'm an old time Whistler customer, and they do make stuff that lasts for years. I'm not a speeder, this is just to keep me from speeding when I'm not paying attention. I drive a large SUV so speeding is not what this thing is meant to do.

Pros:

1Look and feels just like a top end radar detector, sounds just likes the V1 for 1/3 of the price.

2Way too many features, I love the voice alerts, so you don't have to memorize the sound of every band, really handy

3Price, is very attractive VS. the top end models.

4In City mode, almost no false on X-band at all, this is the most annoying band in the city typically from super market doors and garage door openers.

5Radar Band ID, is really cool, if you can isolte the rest of the generic KA signals.

6Three years Warranty, most top end models offer just one year, and they have terrible reviews on customer service?

Cons:

1With POP Enabled, you keep getting false pop alerts to the point that going the speed limit and turning it of is much easier on your mind.

2With KA Max enabled, you keep getting Pulse and KA false signals, same as con-1

3Compass has to display the bearing next to the heading N/S/E/W, nice if you were flying a F-18, but in the city do you really need to know that you're going N320? It is actually very distracting, I had to disable the compass to get rid of this throw back feature from when detector almost went absolute due to the new radar technology so they had to entice you with other features in order to justify the price for the unit.

4It doesn't come with a hardwire kit or the dash pad as noted (What's in the box) I contacted Amazon to alert them, and they gave me a discount on the unit as a result (Thanks Amazon, Excellent customer service). The unit that comes with those items is the Whistler Pro-78se High Performance Radar Detector and not this one. You can verify the contents from the Whistler website directly.

5The Whistler XTR-695SE comes with the option to change the color display, comes with an external speaker out jack and the function keys can eliminate at night if enabled, otherwise it's the same exact unit as the XTR-690SE!

All in all, features for the price, it's not bad, I may need to tweak the selections a bit to see if I get better results, less chatter and only alerts when you really need them.

Update Jan 2012:

I just took a 700 Mile trip with this unit, after turning off pop mode, the unit is much quiter. In Highway mode, every time it alerted with a band-ID the cop was about a mile or two down the road.

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I bought this primarily to pick up the highway patrol. They use Ka around here and this guy did wonderful with that. k worked great as well. Unfortunately, the unit still picks up all the automatic doors at stores. That really bothers me, but don't they all? I keep the volume at max because I listen to my stereo on those long boring trips quite loud. After probably 7 months the speaker blew. I pulled it and couldn't find anything about it on the web. Guess its trash now

iKross Solar Powered Windshield Mount Wireless Bluetooth Speakerphone Handsfree Car Kit

I bought this device because MD Law requires you use a hands Free Device while Driving. It connects easily to both our cell phones and is easy to hear.

Recently, our city, and state banned cell texting and some communities locally have banned cell use in cars.

I bought this unit because, it was small, solar powered and bluetooth. The unit is small,I have it on the upper left of my windshield, easy to use, works very well. I like the fact that I can audio text with my phone.

Two things could be better, the speaker, and the transmission quality. Otherwise, this is a great product at a great price.iKross Solar Powered Windshield Mount Wireless Bluetooth Speakerphone Handsfree Car Kit

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I put my order in and it arrived the day it was promised. I love this thing. It is portable and has good sound.

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Not Great .. Not Horrible .. Nothing to write home about!

I bought this cause it was cheap .. and guess what? its kinda cheap! LoL

Volume is fair .. could be WAY louder for me.

Mic is fair .. most people say it sounds like a speaker phone

( Probably because it is LoL )

But they say they can hear me OK Some back ground noise ect.

Like the other reviewer the volume controls are on the left side

which make it impossible to adjust the volume if you have it on

the edge of your windshield like Both of us do.

Good: Its Solar Powered Very Cool! So No charging .. no cords!

Bad: Freaking thing turns off after 15 minutes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

They say it has a standby of 1000 hours!

Well How can you tell??? If it turns OFF after 15 minutes!!!!!

( Wouldn't that be a standby time of infinity LoL )

Gave it 1 star because of it turning off after 15 minutes!

Also Because it makes it very inconvenient to use!

because you have to turn it back on every time you need it!

Other wise I guess its a 3 star because it does work.

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I'm editing my original review. Everything I wrote before is still true, however I almost never use this anymore. The main reason is the range it's too large. It say it has a 10 meter range, and it does but that's 30 feet. No cars are that big, but it's a large enough range to cover pretty much anywhere in my house or office when I'm parked.

I'll forget to turn this off before I leave the car, and the next time I try to make or answer a call in my house or at work, it sends the audio to the speaker. The only solution I've found that doesn't involve me going back out to my car is to turn off the bluetooth on my phone, which is a little too annoying, since I then have to remember to turn both the speaker and my phone bluetooth on the next day before I can use it.

A one meter range would have been sufficient, and done a lot to help with the usability. As it is, I can't in good conscience recommend this anymore, and I'm going to look for another solution myself.

******

The mount works well, the speaker is loud, and it's nice to be able to set it up there and forget about it.

However, the audio isn't that great. Usually it's clear, but sometimes it's hard to make out what the person you're talking to is saying. Also, the buttons to control the volume are on the left of the device, which make it impossible to adjust the volume if you have it on the edge of your windshield like I do. The instructions suggest mounting it in the middle of the windshield right in front of the driver (seriously, there's a photo and everything) but that's crazy.

It works well for what I wanted it for broadcasting my phone so I can hear Waze.

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Monster Cable Ultra-Low Profile iPod iCharger (AICHG2 IP)

• Smart Digital Charger technology ensures fast, accurate charges and maximizes battery life."
• Unique, innovative flush-mount design for a compact appearance.
• 3-stage LED charge indicator light lets you know charging stage status.
• 24k gold contacts for optimum power transfer and corrosion resistance.
• Convenient 10-foot cord

(This review is in regard to playing your iPod in your car)

I had no idea what I was missing until I bought this iPod charger.

I also own the Monster iCarPlay cassette adapter which plugs into the headphone input on top of the iPod. Unfortunately, the sound quality has been mediocre at best. It was also very bothersome and annoying to have to adjust the volume controls on both the iPod and the car stereo.

Enter the Ultra-Low Profile iCharger...

...not only does this device charge the iPod, but there is an input for your cassette adapter on the charger. What it allows is for the connection of the iPod to the cassette adapter via the dock connection. Now, I'm not sure why, but when you connect your cassette adapter to the dock connection instead of the headphone input on the iPod, the sound quality drastically improves! The sound is clear and crisp, not loud, blown-out, or hissy. When you connect your iPod in this fashion (via the dock connection) the volume is fixed, so you only have to adjust the volume on your car stereo.

I have no idea why this feature is not listed nor explained in detail on the packaging of the iCharger but it is the best part of product and justifies the rather hefty price tag.

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The iPod nano Gen 4 is NOT COMPATIBLE with this charger. Please read this before purchasing.

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If you want to listen to your iPod (with dock) in the car and have a cassette player in the car, you need this device.

I'd initially tried the Belkin product that does much the same thing... powers the iPod and allows access to via the dock to the line out on the iPod... but the Belkin version adds an amplifier to the line out. And, that amplifier colors the sound (muddy, bass heavy, and nasty!) and easily distorts. Very much defeats the purpose of getting to the line out. If the volume was lowered on the Belkin, I needed to push the volume on my car stereo to get to acceptable levels. When that happened, tape hiss was prominent.

Enter the Monster iPod charger. This product does not include an amplifier... you just get access to the line out signal. Just connect your cassette adapter to the charger, drop the adapter into the cassette player, and enjoy the sound. The volume is totally controlled by the car stereo.

The difference between the Belkin product and the Monster? Night and day. Sound from the Monster charger was clean, crisp, not muddied, not distorted. Much, much improved sound quality.

The only thing I would improve about this product is the connection to the iPod. It's a bit of a tight fit when the iPod is in it's usual case (basic DLO case).

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This is an excellent car charger for your iPod. It is sturdy and well designed. Even though it does not indicate this anywhere on the packaging, it works great for an iPod mini as well. I really like the fact that I can plug my cassette adapter into this charger, rather than into the earphone jack of my iPod mini, to play tunes through my car's speaker system. Before I used this charger, I could not always get the plug from my cassette adaptor to fit snugly into my iPod mini's earphone jack.

This is NOT a wireless system for your iPod to play in your car; I believe the reviewer below from Texas posted under the wrong product.

If you're looking for a car charger for your iPod or iPod mini, you won't be disappointed in this product.

WARNING: THE CAR CHARGER IS INCOMPATIBLE WITH THE IPHONE G3. The audio still works, but the iphone does not charge.

Eagle Dash Cam - 1080p Full HD Car DVR (HDMI, SD, Motion Detection) High Definition Def New Camera

I had purchased a different model a few month back. The picture quality was very good but connecting it to may pc to download videos never worked. I also had to invert the video so I could attach the camera to my windshield vs the dash. So the bracket holding the camera was revesed so it never locked in. This caused the camera to fall a few times to the point it stopped working. At least i blamed it on the falls and not a defective product.

This camera has an excellent picture, it is setup up perfect out of the box and attaching it to a pc is simple. Excellent product. It even can be used as a PC camera. I wished I had bought this one the first time. I had a question that I sent to the seller. I got a response back fast and delivery of the camera was fast.

This was sent to me as "Eagle" dam cam which has no Eagle anywhere on the item or packaging. Some sellers such as Texas Wholesale charge $106 for "Eagle" but send you this cheapest version that you can find on the internet for $40. Forget about this junk. I purchase a Viewsonic a year ago and am happy.

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The unit did not work when I took it out of the box. Menu window would not open to ser the date and time, put in my car and it recorded untill i started movine and recording stoped, I only had A nice vidio of the front of my house after 20 mile drive.

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This dash-cam works fine. Quality seems okay for the price range; it's all plastic.

All the buttons and features work. Can't talk about longevity because I've

only had it a few days. Video is so-so and stightly jumpy at high speed.

However, it's adequate for a dash-cam and more resolution or higher frame

rate would only eat up more FLASH storage.

Pros:

1) Performs all the basic functions of a dash-cam correctly.

2) Daytime video quality is adequate, although I wish the lens were wider angle.

3) Suction cup mount works quite well so far.

Cons:

1) Instructions are kinda stinky, although a techie can figure it out pretty easily.

2) Resolution is NOT 1080 or even 720. Maybe 480 you generally cannot read the license plate of the card ahead.

3) The same dash-cam can be found for signifcantly less than the $100 listed here.

My final advice is: shop around. I paid signifcantly less than $100. At the

price I paid, it would be 4 stars for value, but at $100, it's only 3.

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I like this little camera, it has a lot of very good attributes, the one draw back is the night vision, it basically has none. This dash Cam OK for the price range but is good for broad daylight only.

Garmin Nuvi 855 Standard Red LED Wall / AC / Home Charger!

• An outstanding quality charger at a reasonable price up to 90% off the original price!
• Official 2 stage accurate and safe charger, ensures a longer lasting battery, always.
• One year warranty is offered by the manufacturer against defects.
• The first stage of this charger offers fast charging until 95% bettery life.
• The second stage of this charger is "trickle" charge and fully optimizes your battery to 100%.

It's a wall wart. It's black. It works. It looks just like the ones for my pocket camera, iPod amp, cell phone... I'm going to have to start labeling these things.

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My GPS device did not come with an AC charger. This one is easy to use and convenient to carry. I recommend it.

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It's difficult to write a specific review for this product. It either works or it don't. It works. That's what I want it to do.

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The charger that came with my Garmin was no longer functioning so I was pleased to find this item. It is worth buying. It was packaged securely and arrived very quickly.

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This plug works well to keep the 885T charged when away from the car. Very portable and useful for home.