Sanyo 4900/RL 2000/RL 4920/5300/7200/RL 7300/7300/RL 2500/5400/VM 4500/5500/MM 5600/MM 7400/8100/PM

I ordered 2 car chargers for our Sprint phones to enable convenient charging during road trips. Our order came in ahead of time and the product works flawlessly. Jimmie M.

Whistler Pro-2000W 2,000 Watt Power Inverter

I am an over the road truck driver and we bought a Cuisinart K-Cup coffe maker that draws 1500 watts of power and my 1500 watt inverter could not handle it. We installed this inverter and upgraded the inline fuses to 80 amps and it works like a charm. It can be a bit noisy under load but for the price I am VERY pleased. We have been using for three months so far.

Did not last 2 months. Powered a microwave about 5 times, a coffee pot about 10, and a laptop on occasion. Now it starts whining with an audible alarm and shuts down regardless what I try to power with it. Also the built in USB port didn't never work either, would not even charge an iPad. I am just outside the window of return with it so now I must contact the company who made it and hope for the best.

Edit 7/25/2012

I have come back to report that I never was able to get this company to respond concerning the failure of this unit or any type of RMA. I have resigned to the fact that I threw away almost $200 and I am having to order a different brand now from another company in hopes for the best. I do not recommend this brand

Buy Whistler Pro-2000W 2,000 Watt Power Inverter Now

I did my research, and looked over countless reviews. I bought the Whistler Pro-2000 watt power inverter, and I am VERY HAPPY!!! I am a trucker so I know what I am talking about when it comes to the needs of everyday power inverter use. I didn't want to have to use all 4 batteries to run a power inverter. I was using a Sima STP 1500 watt power inverter, and it always had problems running my 700 watt micro wave. I installed my Whistler Pro-2000 watt today and it worked just great. I am all smiles. My micro wave worked great without any problems. The digital read out told me how many watts I was using, and the 3 fans on the back kept it nice and cool. The old inverter would take 4 min. to cook a bag of popcorn, I guess because it wasn't supplying enough power. With my Whistler I was able to cook the same bag of popcorn in 2:30 min. and it almost burnt the popcorn, that is how well it performed. I will continue to update this review when I test it even further.

Read Best Reviews of Whistler Pro-2000W 2,000 Watt Power Inverter Here

Will run a 1300 watt microwave no problem (1700 watt at peak). Lots of hissing on light bulbs, both Incandescent and CFLs. But if you have any old CRTs lying around that you are going to be using, you will need a Pure Side Wave Inverter.

Want Whistler Pro-2000W 2,000 Watt Power Inverter Discount?

This is my first inverter so I have no point of reference to compare it to, but it's meeting my expectations in every way. Do read the reviews for this and other Whistler models as well as other inverters to avoid the mistake of thinking you can plug this into your cigarette lighter and you're done it ain't that simple! Please, please forget using your cigarette lighter with any inverter over 200W right now...you are almost certain to toast fuses or wiring in your car.

And oh yeah, a complete solution is not as cheap as this single item either.

My biggest complaint was about grounding the unit. There is a ground connector but not much detail about *how* to ground it or *why* to ground it in the manual. Searching around on the web I found posts suggesting that (1) you don't really need to ground it and indeed it works just fine without a ground wire, (2) if you don't ground it you will die, and (3) if you DO ground it you will die. I think I got that resolved (more later). My only other complaint is trivial: the supposedly always-powered USB port on mine is only powered when the switch is on. Not a huge deal.

I bought this to supply power to a few items in my house in the event of a sustained power grid failure caused by something like an ice storm or a hurricane, both of which I've experienced. I've had a gasoline generator for years but it took up lots of room, had to be maintained (oil/filter changes, keeping the tires inflated, exercising it periodically) and I had to remember to go buy lots and lots of flammable gasoline to store when the weather looked nasty (and provide space for all those gasoline containers). After reading a lot on the web I sold and replaced it with a solution consisting of...

* this Whistler 2000W inverter (up to 4000 starting watts you need to understand the difference between starting and running watts before you even think about buying an inverter or a generator!)

* two 12V 110 amp deep-cycle sealed AGM batteries to supply power to the inverter (you need to understand all those buzzwords too like deep-cycle, sealed and AGM)

* several not-too-cheap cables to connect the two 12V batteries together in parallel (a.k.a. a "battery bank"), then to connect them to the inverter (the inverter wants to be fed 200 amps; two 110 amp batteries in parallel provide 220 amps to make it happy; my car's alternator provides only 105 amps and yours probably doesn't provide much either, you need to understand parallel vs. serial battery banks)

* a "smart" charger to keep the two 12V batteries ready for use

* a few very robust extension cords

* a rolling utility cart to put all this heavy stuff on (the batteries are about 90 lbs. each)

* a ramp to let me roll the cart up two steps into the house from the garage

That got me started and that's almost all. This let me try to power the items I want to be able to run in an extended outage, including:

* my refrigerator/freezer, a recent model from Samsung that is very efficient, it starts and runs fine off the inverter

* as many CFL-equipped lamps as you'd like as well as a few electric fans they draw virtually no wattage; knock yourself out

* essential electronics including a laptop, cable modem, wireless router, NAS adapter, external hard drive, wireless printer, VOIP phone box, cordless phone base station, cell phone and tablet chargers but *not* the UPS that these are usually plugged into the UPS didn't like the inverter (I learned that a UPS *is* an inverter system with battery all in a box)

That left me with one essential item that wouldn't run: an older model, not very efficient portable/room-to-room air conditioner. It wanted more starting watts than the inverter could supply. Solution: do without the air conditioner or buy a newer, more efficient one. Still looking at that. I'll update this review when I figure out what I'm going to do.

One last problem: in an extended power grid failure, how do I recharge my battery bank when it has been depleted? I thought about cranking up the car and connecting jumper cables from its battery to the battery bank, but read too many posts online that made me uncertain about the wisdom and safety of that. Then the light bulb came on: another inverter, just a smaller one. My car's alternator will easily power a 400W inverter ($32, about the price of a good set of jumper cables). My "smart" charger only uses 150W. So for another $32, my car becomes a 400W 115V generator that runs the smart charger that replenishes the big inverter's battery bank. Problem solved. (Actually, I went for an 800W inverter for around $50 so that I could recharge the battery bank and still power some other items during the recharge my car's 105 amp alternator can handle the 800W inverter's 80 amp requirement with no problem. Your next assignment is to find out how many amps your car's alternator puts out.)

Confused yet? I was too and I'm still learning, but I think I've put together a pretty low-maintenance, high-reliability solution for a power failure lasting several days. I have around $1,000 in it and expect it to last for years. Just wanted to give a plug to this product while making people aware that there is a lot more to this than just buying an inverter.

Oh yeah, about grounding the inverter: that was easy. The ground lug is there to ground the inverter's case to the chassis of the inverter itself inside the case. Just connect an 18 or 16 gauge wire between the inverter's negative input terminal and the ground lug. I got this from Whistler tech support. I don't know why the unit can't just be supplied that way. Anyway, I've run it for hours with and without that ground wire and it works just fine. Like any electrical device, pay attention to what you're doing and be careful!

I have my cooking and heating needs covered for an extended period without electricity which is why they're not mentioned here.

Comments welcomed. Seems like I learn something new about this topic every day.

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Toshiba Gigabeat S MES60VK Integrated 12v DC Car Charger and FM Transmitter - Uses Gomadic TipExcha

• Smart technology circuit architecture provides precision voltage and resistor regulation specific to the Toshiba Gigabeat S MES60VK. Protects the internal battery longevity by modulating the charge in a safe and efficient manner.
• Full FM frequency spectrum is available and is user selectable in 0.1MHz increments from 88.1 to 107.9 MHz. Advanced Digital PLL sound coding maintains stable and high quality sound.
• Transmitters emit a powerful FM signal that is the maximum allowed by FCC regulation. Advanced signal isolation provides crystal clear sound quality.
• Comprehensive input range of 12-24VDC to support a wide variety of vehicles (both foreign and domestic). Works great on boats and RVs too!
• Non-coiled cable design allows for easy routing around your vehicle trim for a more professional look. Durable construction is built to last.

This works pretty well, and considering the dearth of accessories around for the Gigabeat, you have to take what you can get.

It works really well if you only use it as an FM transmitter or battery charger, not both at once. However with the power and audio cords plugged in, there is a distinct high frequency whine. It you're travelling at highway speeds, you probably won't notice it over the noise of the engine. But it seems to vary based on engine speed, so during a stop-start drive around the suburbs you will notice it. It's a pity they couldn't have filtered this noise out, especially since it's "second generation", so presumably someone would have noticed this before.

It's built pretty well and I like the idea that I can get other tips in the future to use it for other music devices or phones.

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SANOXY FM Transmitter /Car Charger/ Holder for iPhone 3GS 3G iPod Touch- 4GB, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB

• Using the iPhone, you can talk to anyone hands-free style through your car's speaker system!
• If you want to listen to digital music simply place your iPod or MP3 player onto the holder, tune to
• Type A USB socket for charging mobile phone, GPS, and other devices! FM Frequency 88.1 - 107.9 MHz.
• Remote control is convenient for you to play / stops the music, adjust volume, and skip to next / pr
• Bulk Package

I like this device:

Nice:

Cheap FM Transmitter

Phone Charger

Phone Holder

Can be used with other devices

Tested on iPhone 4 like a charm

and best of all, all at the same time yes, you can charge and listen to music at the same time!

Cons:

-The stick to hold it is short, on my 95 camry, it had hard time using it and its pushing against my dashboard

shakes a lot while driving

seems to inter fer with Google maps GPS the maps work, but the orientations easily gets out of sync, and keeps saying move the device in the figure (8) motion

i used it with MapQuest MapQuest did not seem to interfere so not sure if its Google Maps, or the iPhone

FM Transmitter is weak it works, but not loud, and does not have much power. While driving during the city, about 90% of the time its clear, and maybe 10% or so not clear (has static) so its not bad, unless you like your music flawless

I dont think the holder will last it looks cheap but so far its holding, lets see for how long

I think this is an iPhone issue, but I cannot hear the calls on the speaker so its problematic if you need to remove it from the holder each time

With a case on the iPhone4, its fit is tight in the holder

Trick to use it to charge and listen at the same time:

Do not use the extra cable from the iPhone to the device, only use the charge cable!

place the music on speaker mode, the connect the charge cable and you are done it charges AND music works from the same cable!

If you keep the extra cable on the top, the you wont hear a thing!

Why 4 star:

static FM, not very loud voice

cannot hear the calls on FM while driving (maybe an iPhone issue, not the device issue)

cheap holder and stick very short

Buy SANOXY FM Transmitter /Car Charger/ Holder for iPhone 3GS 3G iPod Touch- 4GB, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB Now

I ordered this FM transmitter for my iPhone 16GB 3G on a whim.. I had no really high expectations because of the low price, which is how I typically approach items like this.. It arrived rather quickly in a plain white box.. So, maybe they saved some money on packaging.. I immediately took the unit to my car, plugged it in, dropped the iPhone into the base and cranked it up.. I had some pretty bad static at first, but then while toying with the 3.5mm stereo cable that comes with it, found that you don't even need to use the stereo cable!! Once I ditched the 3.5mm cable, the sound was crisp and clear.. According to the instructions, there should be an LED on the actual lighter plug when the unit is plugged in and working, but mine doesn't work.. I couldn't care less about that, because the unit does exactly what it's supposed to do, and I no longer have to worry about burning CDs so I can jam while I'm zipping down I-95 at 95mph.. Heheh.. The adjustable arm holds its position pretty well, which is a major plus.. I've seen similar units go for a LOT more than this one, and honestly, I have no idea how they could be any better.. The best part is that not only does this thing allow you to use your iPhone/iPod through your car stereo, it also charges you iPhone/iPod while you're it's all hooked up.. One thing I did to make sure I didn't receive any interference from local radio stations was to just take the antenna off of my car..

Read Best Reviews of SANOXY FM Transmitter /Car Charger/ Holder for iPhone 3GS 3G iPod Touch- 4GB, 8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB Here

I bought this to replace my Griffin iTrip after it shorted out. I was worried about buying a different brand (or a non-brand, as a case seems to be), since the Griffin is able to be set to international frequencies (and I was never able to receive a clear signal without setting it below 88.1).

So far, however, the signal has been A LOT clearer at 88.1 than it ever was on my old transmitter. I live in Phoenix and I've had no trouble with signal interruptions so far; I even get a clear sound in parking garages and around strongly broadcast signals, like in shopping center parking lots. The sound quality is also pretty decent for an FM transmitter, especially one that cost less than $20 to buy and ship. I also love the cradle and the flexible neck that allows me to dock my iPod within easy reach.

The remote seems to be a bust, but I don't really care as I can't see a reason to use a remote when my iPod is docked right in front of me. Your mileage may vary, I suppose. And for all I know this might short out in a few months just like my Griffin did, but I'm holding out hope!

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Over the years I've been through about 15 FM transmitters. This one is by far the best quality I've had. You may hear a little high pitched noise at high volumes, but that is a small price to pay for the amazing amount of clarity provided. The remote control is pretty flimsy and has to be held almost directly next to it to work but that's not the reason I purchased it so I was hardly disappointed. I really don't think you'll find a better product on the market.

I received the product today and I am quite happy with it. There are a few odd quirks with this product but overall I am happy with it out the gate.

First things first it comes with NO DIRECTIONS. There are a few bullet points on the packaging but thats it. Hopefully this review will give you all you need to know based on what I have discovered fiddling with it.

The device cradles your ipod or mp3 device between padded jaws. They are a little tight coming out the case and i thought I broke them forcing them apart so that my ipod would fit. After a bit I discovered that there is a pushbutton on the lower left of the unit that springs the jaws open to full width. This allows the unit to hold many different ipod and mp3/smartphone models without falling out. There are also 2 tabs on the bottom to prevent you ipod from sliding out if the jaws are loose. One big negative -one of the tabs blocks the headphone jack on the ipod touch. So if you want to put a cable in the headphone jack you have to set it up so your ipod doesn't rest against the bottom tabs.( see enclosed pic)

The device has an LCD display for the transmitter on the top of the unit with 2 up/down frequency buttons and a QS button. For the life of me, I have no idea what QS means. It seems to work like the preset button on the included remote ( more on that later)

The gooseneck on this seems very sturdy and stayed where I put it. I do wish it was a bit longer though so that it would be higher that my shifter. The lighter adapter has a blue power indicator led that is kinda bright. You may want to put a piece of tape over it if you are driving at night.

This things also has a built in usb port for charging devices. I haven' t used it so I cannot comment on the quality of it as a charging station.

Some of the pics show the unit with a 1/8 inch cable that goes from the headphones to the transmitter. This is NOT REQUIRED if you are using an ipod. Just use the ipod connecter and you are good to go. his may be required for phone usage with an iphone but I cannot confirm that. The cable is required if you have another mp3 player like a Sansa fuze.

The sound quality is pretty good. I have had a few FM transmitters for various mp3 devices and this one has the best quality yet so its a winner in that department. Another added plus is that you can use any frequency between 87.1 and 107.9 Mhz. I have had units in the past that only had preset frequencies that would just not work if there were radio stations close by on the same frequency.

The biggest negative about the unit is that the lcd screen with the frequency info is on the top of the unit. If you set it up so that you can see the ipod's screen you wont see the lcd info because it is facing away from you. This is only an issue if you have to change the station while driving otherwise its not that big an issue

This unit comes with a cheap, cheesy looking plastic remote that has some plusses and minuses.

I read a few reviews about the remote that states that you have to be right next to the unit for it to pick up the signal. At first it seemed that I was experiencing the same issue. The remote only seemed to work when I was right next to the unit."Meh", I thought -its only 11 bucks. But as I was fiddling with the unit position I noticed that after a while I could control the unit via remote from a good arm span away. This seemed odd - sometime it would work from far away other times it wouldn't work when it was right next to it. Then I found the culprit. Upon inspection it appears that the remote is an IR emitting remote. IR emitting remotes are directional an require the unit in question to have an IR receiver to capture the signal. From what I can tell the IR receiver is located somewhere in the top left area of the unit. Basically if you can read the radio station lcd your remote should work like a charm.Trouble is, the way this is designed you want to have it so that your ipod is facing you -which means the lcd is facing up which means that the remote ain't gonna be useful. I think this is a shame because, with an ipod touch, it would be much easier to do basic things like pause a track or play the next track without looking at the unit because of the tactile feedback. Since everything on the touch is accessed via the touchscreen you kinda have to look at it instead of the road to do these things.

The remote is an odd little thing. It looks like an old school ipod nano complete with a sticker where the ipod nano screen would be (newsflash the sticker does nothing). The remote allows you to rewind, fast forward, play, pause and increase and decrease volume( these are the "clickwheel" functions). In addition it has a frequency up and down button and a preset button. the preset button does not operate the way I would imagine. when I press it it goes from 88.1 to 88.9 and then 107.1 to 107.9 in .2 increments. If you wanted to use something in-between you are gonna have to use the frequency buttons. I haven't yet figured out how to set a preset (if that is even possible).

Finally I noted that one poster stated that when he tried to use the remote his volume control did not work. I am not positive on this, but I think that is by design. When I pugged my ipod into the unit and ran tune it stated on the display that it was in docked mode and not only could I not change the volume via my remotebut I couldn't adjust the volume on my ipod either. I believe that this is feature apple put in so that when the unit is docked the volume is controlled by the docking device. there is a simple workaround for this though. If you use the supplied 1/8 inch cable to go from your headphone out to the input on the top it treats that ipod ilke it is no longer in docked mode and you can freely change the volume on your ipod or via the remote.

Oh well.

PROS:

Good Transmitter

Tunable to any frequency

Solid Gooseneck

DIRT CHEAP

CONS:

Cant view display in normal position

Remote unusable when unit in normal position

Cannot set presets

PowerUp Car Power Supply Charger DC Adapter Fits HP DM1-3000, DM1-4010, DM1-4010CA, DM1-4010US, DM1

The power up car power source was exactly as described and worked up to and above all expectations. I recommend it for anyone who needs to power up their laptop in a car.

Samsung Captivate i897 Combo Rapid Car Charger + Home Wall Charger + USB Data Charge Sync Cable for

I'm sure this bundle works for other phones but it's useless for the Samsung Captivate the data cable (both the original and the one they sent as a replacement) acted like a dead cable with nothing happening when I plugged it in. (Got a diff cable that works fine). The wall charger is underpowered and takes forever to charge the phone compared to the the original charger...haven't tried the car charger yet but I'm holding out hope.

The wall charger itself was broken when I took it out of the box. The car charger did not fit my phone. Definitely would not recommend this to anyone

Buy Samsung Captivate i897 Combo Rapid Car Charger + Home Wall Charger + USB Data Charge Sync Cable for Now

The home charger works but you can't use the phone when it's plugged in. The car charger doesn't work at all and the usb sort of works part of the time.

Read Best Reviews of Samsung Captivate i897 Combo Rapid Car Charger + Home Wall Charger + USB Data Charge Sync Cable for Here

I will never buy from this buyer again. The wall charger and USB charger doesn't work. As soon as I put my phone to charge, i can't receive or make any calls, can't unlock the phone ... it simply freezes the phone. I have to take the phone out of the charger in order to do anything. Such a pain.

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Data cable that came was not the one shown in picture. It is a Y-connector with two mini usb connectors. Neither of them work for data sync with Samsung Kies. Only good for charging.

Optima (8171-767) DS46B24R Yellow Top Prius Battery

I own a 2004 Prius. I bought another in 2005 for my wife. We are definitely NOT "tree huggers" but love the rock solid mileage (51-54mpg), utility and quality of the car. The only exception is the poor quality 12 volt battery and how it is engineered into the bottom rear of the vehicle. The car definitely deserved the MotorTrend 2004 Car of the Year. The 200+ volt NiMH batteries on both cars are still fine. However, I've had the dealership replace the 12 volt battery twice in my car and once in my wife's to the tune of $200 each time (that's $600 in 12V battery replacements in the past 8 years). Again, this is the small 12 Volt Battery, not the "hybrid" battery. It seems that the stock 12V batttery, which is not even used to start the engine & is really sensitive to heat and deep discharge, is the only item in the Prius that's definitely sub-par. The rest of the car if solid & a marvelous piece of technology & durability.

I finally got tired of paying the dealership around $200 each time to replace the crappy stock battery with another new crappy stock battery. I shopped in several auto parts stores and Sears (Diehard) & Walmart. The 12V battery for the Pruis is really hard to find. The only aftermarket battery that's not a stock is this Optima Yellow (deep cycle) S26b24r. It has been specifically designed with the smaller (Japanese standard) posts to fit the Pruis so there's no need for the adapter kits. If you haven't changed out a 12V battery in a Prius, you won't believe what a relative pain it is. I'm mechanically inclined and have changed out many 12V batteries in other American and Japanese cars taking about 3-5 minutes each time (I'm slow). The Prius battery change is a whole new experience! It took me around an hour to replace the battery. (I now know why the dealership charges so much for labor to replace the Prius 12v battery). This Optima Yellow fit PERFECTLY in the remarkably tight space in the bottom rear left corner of the Prius. So far, so good. The Optima has a wound AGM mat instead of the flat lead plates and is sealed & maintenance free so that it should be more durable. It also has a larger capacity than the stock battery, so it should power more of the 12V electronics longer. We'll see.

This battery at Auto Zone was for sale at $280 that's right two hundred eighty dollars + tax! I bought through Amazon at Battery Mart for around $180 with free shipping and no (8.75% California) sales tax. A comparative bargain ($124 savings). It arrived from the east coast in about 3 days. I'm really happy with Amazon and Battery Mart. In the next 4-5 years, I'll see how happy I am with the battery itself. These Optima batteries have a good reputation in the marine & RV applications where deep cycle is needed.

This is a great battery. And this fits like a glove. In my 2007 Toyota Prius. This battery is a direct shoe in for the factory battery. The only thing you really need is a 12 inch extention and 10 mm socket and your ready to go. Time to do it? 35 mins. In 30 degree weather and snow. I'm sure in nicer weather it could be done faster and easier. This is not a hard swap just takes time because you have to figure your moves out. Oh, I charged the battery before I ever swapped them, It's just making sure one less thing to worry about. And make sure you keep a live charge on the wires to the car. Jumper cables and an old battery or a small battery charger like 1 or 2 amps is all you need. So you don't have trouble with the computers. It just takes time it's not brain surgery.

Buy Optima (8171-767) DS46B24R Yellow Top Prius Battery Now

My original Prius battery (this is the accessory battery not the big rechargable) was dead too many times on my 2006 Prius with 60,000 miles. Without this battery you cannot start the car. So I searched the web and found this replacement which is better than the original one. I also found on the internet the info on how to replace this battery. The replacement requires removing a lot of stuff from the trunk. The replacement battery fit beautifully and I think I saved $100-200.

We now make it a practice to lock the car whenever we leave it which helps insure that things are turned off and doors closed, because the car will not lock unless everything is right. We hope to avoid draining this battery in the future by following this practice.

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My original battery started acting up after 6 years, which was pretty good life in a car. If I left any accessory on after stopping the car, the prius computers were likely not to boot on the next try causing me to have to jump start. It seems as the only two options for the Prius Gen II are the factory battery, or this one. I have used Optima car batteries in the past and liked them, so it wasn't a hard decision. The battery is an exact fit space wise. It is physically a bit bigger than the 24ah battery it replaced (no smart key option on my car.) That size difference doesn't affect the install as the bracket adjusts in the car. The posts line up and are the correct size, and the vent connector plugs right in, no issues. Installation was a bit more involved than on the average car, but only took me about 30 minutes, taking my time. I just removed the carry strap that the Optima has, it just slides off easily.

Performance of the battery is outstanding, this is what the Prius should be equipped with in my opinion. It is a true AGM battery, can't spill and doesn't need to be maintained in the tough location on the Prius. The car's mileage has picked up by a few MPG now as the internal resistance of this one is probably much lower and takes a charge faster and easier and the car doesn't waste energy trying to top off the original battery that would no longer take a full charge. When I power off the car now, even that water pump that kicks in to save hot water to the vacuum bottle runs faster. I highly recommend this battery as a replacement.

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This battery was sold as a "direct replacement" for the Prius. I assumed that to mean it would have the same size. After removing the old battery, I suspected the new one was a little larger. Trying to fit the new one in the car proved to be a difficult process, and confirmed my suspicions. The new battery was indeed about an inch or so bigger (both width and lengh-wise). What happened is that the front of the battery hit some excess body putty (used apparently to seal the areas from moisture) that was present in the well preventing it from sitting on the bottom of the well, whereas the old battery cleared it. I had to go into the battery well with a dremel and carefully remove off the blob of excess body putty. After removing and vacuuming out the excess putty, the battery then went in with a firm push down. Granted, another car will probably not have this excess putty and will fit fine. Also, the negative terminal is now closer to the side of the well, which made the placement of that negative terminal back on a little tight as well. After 3 hours or so of struggling, I was able to get it back together and it seems to work fine. Buyers should beware of this additional size compared to the Toyota original battery which may produce some fit problems similar to my experience.

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Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 2004 Mazda 6 With Do-It-Yourself Programming

I was gifted my first car in May 2012 as a graduation gift which is a 2003 Mazda 6 (the v6) and the remote that came from the dealer went out literally a few hours after it was purchased. I ordered this on July 27th, 2012 which was a Friday and it shipped on Monday July 30th and was at my door on Wednesday August 1st, 2012. (I got standard shipping aka the cheapest) I was hoping it would work on my 2003 since it is advertised for a 2004 but it works perfectly and is identical to the original key fob.

I'm very happy with this remote because it gets really annoying having to manually unlock the doors/trunk and not being able to set the alarm. I would definitely recommend this to anyone. I'd like to thank the sellers for the very fast shipping and saving me from having to spend a fortune at the Mazda dealer.

Between my husband and myself, we tried to program the key fob 10 times. We followed the instructions that were included, but it never worked. We finally ended up searching online for better directions and it worked on the fist try. We followed these instructions that we found online and these worked for our 2004 Mazda 6 wagon:

Step 1: Open drivers door and leave open.

Step 2: Lock and unlock the drivers door using the power door lock switch on the door.

Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.

Step 4: Turn key to on position and return to off position. (IMPORTANT use ON position NOT ACC position). Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. Leave key in the ignition.

Step 5: Open and close the drivers door 3 times. (Door should be left open after this step).

Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors.

Step 7: Press the unlock button on remote twice. (This is different than other posts that say you can push any button. Our experience is that it has to be the unlock button.)

Step 8: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series of door locks and unlocks. You're done!

We would've given them 5 stars for price and very prompt shipping, but the inaccurate/incomplete instructions and typos brought our review down a star.

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Worked perfectly for my 2005 Mazda 6, programmed in under a minute. Mine did NOT come with instructions; however, instructions can found through a quick Google search. I followed the instructions here:

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Arrived Promptly.

It works on my 2005 Mazda 6. Both original Fobs went dead (new battery didn't help). This one works great, and I'm so happy to not have to stick the key in the door, or reach in to pop the trunk.

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Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 2004 Mazda 6 With Do-It-Yourself... is great so far. I purchased it for my daughter's car and it works good!

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Astro SP0612 Smart Plug 6 Gauge 12-Feet Booster Cables

I bought these because of that connector in the middle thinking it was a smart idea. It makes it very easy to connect to the cars batteries without worrying about sparks.

I used them a couple of times in the summer months and they worked as expected, but seemed a bit shorter than other cables I have used.

Then winter came along and I needed them again. I took them out of their handy storage bag and started to unroll them only to watch the insulation start cracking.

Overall I liked the design and that compact packaging, but they are simply not safe after the insulation cracks from cold weather.

I used to own a set of these jumper cables years ago and loved them. They are foolproof and very safe. I could not find them at storefront retail auto parts stores so I am glad I found them on Amazon.

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My wife got a set of these cables years ago as a safety promotion from work, and I've looked on and off for years for them. I was delighted to find that Amazon sourced these at a great price, and in a quality with thick cabling that will I am hoping will last as long as the set I have owned for 20 years. The yellow box you see on the left is a coupling that is the last part of the connection made when connecting batteries. Thus, you're connecting two independent cables mid-way after having connected the clamps to each of the batteries to be connected. this moves you and any potential spark safely a few feet from each battery. They arrive in a carry bag for repeated use as well, a nice bonus not obvious when ordering.

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I nice mistake proof jumper cable, and it comes with a convenient storing case. I would recommend this cables to others.

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I highly recommend these cables for anyone that is not mechanically inclined. It is really hard to mess up the order of connecting jumper cables with these.

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Nissan Quest Wireless DVD Headphones (Black, 1 Headset)

• Infrared Wireless DVD Headphones for Mobile/Vehicle entertainment
• Durable and lightweight construction for comfort
• Padded over-ear headphones for high quality sound
• Folding, dual channel, auto off, adjustable headband
• Free Shipping. 30 day money back guarantee. Batteries Included.

These are not Nissan OEM headphones but are generic headphones. They do not have the same build quality BUT they only cost $25 vice $108 for the OEM ones (if you get them through the dealer.) SO I don't know if they will hold up that well (not a big problem for me, my youngest is a teenager) but they work just fine in our 2009 Quest. My daughter does say that these are more comfortable than the OEM ones. I did toss the cheap batteries that come with them and used some brand name alkaline ones. If you need to save a few $$ (even on AMAZON the equivalent to the Nissan OEM headphones cost around $40 apiece) these will work fine.

Raptor PBT10N Negative Battery Terminal

• Platinum-look finish
• 24K gold-plated hardware
• Insulating clear cover
• Insulated clear cover
• Ensures easy installation

I used this terminal for a start to car audio and it worked great and did what I wanted it to do.

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I should have been suspecious when an earlier reviewer commented on the product not fitting the negative battery terminal. However, I have purchased other Raptor terminals with no problems so why question this one. I was wrong. It DOESN'T fit! Amazing! I also had the set screw break while trying to tighten it.

POST SCRIPT: Today I decided to see what I could do to fix the terminal with the broken set screw. First of all I should mention that I purchased two sets of terminals for my dual-battery Ford diesel truck. When I sheared off the screw on the first terminal, I thought I should wait and figure out how to handle it with Amazon. However, since I needed my truck I couldn't wait. Hence the decision to see if I could fix it. (Note that I had already sawed off the battery cables from the stock terminals so using them was not an option.)

First, I tried to extract the broken screw... no luck with that.

Second, a "last resort" option given the nice design of the terminal I drilled through and use a conventional bolt. U G L Y!!! Problem solved.

Ok, now for the other terminal. I did try once again to tighten it and see if it worked, but this time I was extra careful. Nope... this one was loose too! Then I had an idea. What if the set screw was too long? Or the hole not deep enough? One M6 lock washer under the screw head later and IT WORKED! Take note Raptor and fix your tooling.

After this experience I decided to upgrade the rating from one star to three. It could easily have been 4 stars except for the hastle I went through.

NOW I need to contact Amazon to see if I can get a replacement for the one I "modified". Somehow I think I'm stuck with it. We'll see!

Another observation which is common with other Raptor terminals is that the wire holes have a "shoulder" inside the hole which makes it very difficult to install the wires without some of the wire braids hanging up. I solved the problem by using a die grinder and removing the shoulder. No problems after that.

GOOD LUCK!!!

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Yeah its very pretty but it wouldnt tighten on my battery terminal and the bolt to tighten it to the battery terminal broke with a hand held tool not a power tool.

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The terminal works fine the only problem is the plastic cover doesn't snap securely on. It seems like a big bump might knock the cover lose

Clarion EZ58TMCPK Bluetooth Interface with NAVRDS

• Easy-to-use navigation unit with 4.3" TFT Touch Screen display and rechargeable battery
• Simple destination input, turn-by-turn voice prompts, text-to-speech operation and selectable route guidance with 12 million Points of Interest preloaded
• Built-in Bluetooth Hands-free (HFP) and Audio Streaming (A2DP & AVRCP) support
• Play back MP3/WMA files and view JPEG/BMP images from SD/MMC cards up to 4GB
• One-year limited warranty

I picked up one of these EZD580s about a week ago. In the box are the unit, car-mounting hardware, a USB-to-mini USB cable and some instructions sheets. I would think that it will be great and A-OK because it seems to work well. It came out of the box with the battery at 81% charged. But this is where I get stuck. It comes with a directions sheet for mounting the unit in your car, and a Quick Start guide for routing and street directions. But nothing in any of the included reference material tells one how long to charge, or recharge, the battery, or if there is an AC Charger available for this unit. I konw that the USB-to-mini USB cable is for charging the unit on your computer, but how long do you charge it? On the Clarion website, there is a "Product Manual" available for download. I downloaded and printed the "Product Manual" and guess what in the entire 71 pages, there is not one word regarding the charging and recharging of the battery, and also nothing about an AC Cahrger. The Product Manual does go into precise detail on how to select route guidance and street directions, the device's settings, etc. But nothing on step number 1 charging the battery! The battery charging issue aside, though, this is a real good unit. It has a big screen with easy to read text and numbers. You can use the included stylus or use your fingers to access the various menu items. When I initially turned it on, it took about a minute or two (which is normal for GPS devices) to locate the GPS signal. Once it locked in on the signal, it was easy rollin'. Entering your destinations, referencing the Points Of Interest, etc., are fairly intuitive, making this GPS unit fairly easy to use without getting an advanced scientific degree. On the negative side, support from Clarion is absolutely NON-EXISTANT. Calling the telephone numbers on the Clarion website results in a literal circle of recorded messages.

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good piece. money was ok, harder to use compared to a garmin. and later on, it broke. it would freeze, then finally stopped turning on. when it did work, it was ok. i had this unit replaced once already from clarion itself. buy a garmin.

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FYI, I operated this unit in Seattle, Washington and some in L.A.

Well I decided to be nice and give this unit a review of 2 Stars (I don't like it) when I was tempted to give it a 1 Star (I hate it) due to it's complete uselessness after about a month. After a while, this unit proved itself to be a lemon and completely worthless for getting anywhere (detailed explanation below). It worked fine for a month and I was excited that I had gotten a winning product.

Then the "out of memory" errors started. After about the first 2 maybe 3 of these errors, I thought it would just go away or just be a small nuisance. I was dead wrong.

OUT OF MEMORY

It got so bad in the weeks following that first month that it would freeze up and display critical "out of memory" errors every 30 seconds to 2 minutes while I was on a route. What's worse is it would slow WAY down before the error happened so I had to wait until the error happened before it would reboot itself so I could use the 20 or so seconds of directions before it slowed WAY down again until the imminent "out of memory" error reoccurred. Also, I needn't fail to mention that the reboot took a solid 2 minutes before I could get my directions back again.

FEATURES AND FUNCTIONALITY DRAWBACKS

Besides the short battery life mentioned above and the maps being incomplete (both mentioned above in "Cons" section), another frustration with this unit is that it doesn't support SD cards larger than 4GB? Are you serious, Clarion? Did you design this unit to be used 9 years ago (when SD cards were invented, in 2001)?

What's worse about the memory situation is that, according to a rep at Clarion, the unit doesn't even store maps and other important and functional history on a SD card; it uses the memory that came with the unit which is 2GB. I have to visit clients all over the Seattle area and revisit them, so it would be nice to have a nice long history of all the places I've been without worrying about using up the 2GB.

Oh, by the way, before I even called Clarion I thoroughly went through every function and feature in the settings of the unit to figure out if the "out of memory" was warranted or maybe something I could adjust; and I tried resetting the device along with CLEARING THE MEMORY and of course nothing solved it.

So, buying a SD card (not much of an upgrade though being you can only add 4GB to 2GB) only makes it so you can put pictures and music on your GPS device. It would be much better to be able to use the SD card to store all the other critical mapping things since this is, after all, a GPS unit first and a multimedia player second.

CONCLUSION AND FURTHER NOTES ABOUT CLARION'S AFTER SALE SUPPORT

I didn't even delve into the super short battery life of 15-30 minutes (note also that this battery is only a few months old with minimal use) or talk much about the maps not having updated information. I will add, however, that it was on multiple occasions and not just an isolated experience or two that I got those messages about not finding an address or street (even though in most cases the streets and addresses had been in existence for more than 3 years). I even contacted TeleAtlas, the mapping software company who sold Clarion the software for this unit, and they will not produce updates for this unit. Everyone who buys this unit is apparently stuck with outdated maps indefinitely, and thus plumb out of luck.

Needless to say, I will be buying a unit with NAVTEQ mapping software (which provides free updates for life for many of the GPS units they are on) and will only recommend a unit with TeleAtlas maps if they ever decide to be more helpful to their paying customers.

So, I'm currently waiting through my second 2-week time-frame for my unit to be "fixed" by Clarion. The first time I sent it back I had high hopes that it would come back and work. Again, I was dead wrong. Not only did they not address the other issues I told them about; they didn't even fix the main "out of memory" issue that had rendered this unit usable. This 2nd time, I pleaded with the Clarion rep to replace this obvious lemon with a working unit and he insisted on doing it "by the book" and said that I would be getting the same unit back after they try to "fix" it again.

I can't risk going through yet another 2 weeks without the use of my GPS unit (since I use it everyday for my business), so I officially give up on Clarion and I'm getting a NAVTEQ unit, probably the Garmin Nuvi 265WT if it doesn't do the shutting down thing during inclement weather some people have had issues with. I can't in good conscience resell a lemon on eBay, so I'll probably just trash the Clarion and cut my losses.

Don't necessarily decide not to buy the Clarion EZD580 based on my experiences since it's possible that you could get a unit that doesn't go "out of memory" on ya and works fine for years. You could also have the same experience I did. Kind of a toss up.

Fonus Universal Car Mount Holder with Dual USB Charger and Charging Socket for Sprint HTC EVO 4G LTE

I'm using this for an HTC 8x Windows Phone.

The Good: Obviously great that it has two USB ports for charging plus the additional lighter charger. The device holder/grip is very tight which I like because I know for sure my phone won't fall out. The neck is bendable which is also nice.

The Bad: It does not fit very well in the lighter area. Partly it's probably because of the weight of the phone but even without that there is some "play" so the mount kinda wobbles while driving. I've tried in both lighter chargers in my car and have the same problem. This might not be an issue in other cars, especially those that have a vertical lighter charger as shown in the stock photo on this listing. Mine's horizantal.

Overall: I do recommend it, it's generally a good design. I'll just have to find a way to make it work for me.

My previous one broke so I got this as a replacement. Use this in my truck to keep my smart phone near by and charge. I like this more that my previous model due to the swivel base.

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Fits my phone well. Not too obtrusive. Like the usb ports and that it comes with a cord for my phone.

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I got the mount holder for my car so I can play my music off my phone and also have my phone calls go through my speakers in my car and have my sirius radio hooked up through my charger at the same time. Works great...love the bendable neck.

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RCA RPD663 Mobile Sound System for iPad

• Dock for iPad - plays and charges your iPad
• Ideal for home and mobile use
• Wireless headphones included
• Built-in stereo speakers - low-profile, full-range
• Headrest mounting kit and DC power adapter - for mobile use

This RCA Mobile Sound System for iPad is really a clever device for use in the car or at home. It works with all three versions of the iPad. The kids can watch movies on your iPad on the long car trips without having to hold it (and potentially delete apps!) It also keeps the iPad charged so the battery won't be dead when you arrive at your destination. The wireless headphones sound great and make private listening in the car cord-free.

For use in the car, it has a very sturdy metal and plastic bracket that mounts to the headrest with velcro straps. The dock then clips in and out of the bracket very easily. The iPad can be slid into the dock either before or after it's attached to the headrest bracket. The 12V power cord plugs into the dock to provide power to the iPad and the built-in speakers on the dock. The wireless headphones run on batteries and automatically turn off when they don't detect any sound transmission for a period of time. Great feature!

When we're not using it in the car, we keep it on the kitchen counter as a charging station for the iPad. It has a little flip-out stand to hold it upright and it takes up very little counter space. The built in speakers also sound great for listening to music from the iPad, or even for watching Netflix while cooking or eating.

Highly recommended accessory for your iPad!

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I like the flexibility and portablility of this product. Like that I can play it indoors on regular AC and in the car as a A/V player using the adaptor. The headphones are an added plus.

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I just want to know does this work for 7inch Tablets? I want to buy one but i only ipads in the descriptions.

BlackVue Wi-Fi New DR500GW-HD, Car Black Box/Car DVR Recorder, Built-in Wi-Fi, Full HD (1080p@30fps

• New Wi-Fi Feature, Full HD Video: High Definition & High Frame Rate, Extended recording time with a high compression rate
• 2 megapixel CMOS sensor, Diagonal 120, horizontal 98, Built-in microphone, High-Capacity Meory Card Support (up to 32GB)
• Various Recording Modes, Motion Dection in Parking Mode Recording, 360 rotation cylinder in sleek design, Full HD label
• Universal File Format: MP4, Video Playback on various devices, BlackVue App and Software(for PC), MyWay Viewer
• Built-in GPS and G-sensor, Internal Emergency battery, Voice Guide, 3-color LEDs, Video out, Resolved Heat Issue

youtube.com/watch?v=oITJ2xGBuT8 YouTube compresses video quality is actually much better than shown on YouTube.

I am new to dash cams but not to mobile technology.

Its pretty cool it has WiFi, GPS, 3-axis gyro, accelerometer, shock sensors and ambient light sensor. It records to a MicroSD card or you can download directly via WiFi to your iDevice or Android.

I bought this 500GW-HD about a week ago and I have been fiddling with it via Telnet/SSH/FTP, iPhone 5 & iPad 4 iOS app, Android app (rooted Kindle 2 running Jelly Bean 4.2) and the MicroSD card directly. I am primarily a Mac and Linux user on the desktop, although I loaded Windows 7 on my Macbook Air & iMac to look at the Blackvue Viewer Windows application (which is much better than the Mac version, BTW. More on this later)

My first impressions of the Blackvue DR500GW-HD are, by and large, positive. The 500GW-HD gets warm, but never hot. The camera mount is solid and very adjustable, the angle of view is excellent and the video quality is much better than I expected, even at night. Audio is crystal clear and in-sync. I expect that Firmware updates will fix/mitigate some of the more glaring defects discussed below.

It has some kinks, which is to be expected as this technology is still maturing. In particular, the firmware is not actually updated with any changes you make on the SD card (config.ini), the camera just reads the config.ini and uses that. But not always. Sometimes, after a power down/power up, the SSID and pwd will be forgotten or some of your other settings (timezone etc.) will be ignored. This may be a Blackvue Mac vs. PC application problem rather than a Blackvue firmware bug, although this did happen twice using the Windows app only.

My Firmware is in English and the latest version as of this writing version 1.003; I bought the 500GW-HD along with a Sandisk 32Gb Class 10 MicroSD card from Amazon. I also bought the Power Magic Pro (from eBay) and hardwired the Blackvue. The PMP is set to 12v & 48 hours and has been rock solid so far. A little background for anyone new to hacking the Blackvue 500GW-HD you can Telnet, SSH and FTP to the device via WiFi. The IP address is 192.168.8.1, login as "root", default password is "pt". FTP is ftp://192.168.8.1/Blackvue/Record/ to access all of your videos.

My config.ini is set to Normal, 1080p, Brightness 1, all flashing LEDs off, default LED colours, default sensors, voice on for everything except Events, custom SSID & pwd, custom root pwd, 1 minute record intervals, MPH and TimeZone to 174. I am in Houston, Texas, if that helps with the timezone thing. I tried setting the Blackvue to 802.11n by adding the line "ap_11n=1" to the [WiFi] section of the config.ini, but it didn't work. Fastest connection so far is 802.11g

Let me briefly discuss the Blackvue desktop Viewer applications for Windows and Mac. The Windows apps I am sure most of you are familiar with (and has been discussed many times elsewhere) so I won't spend any time on it other than to state that if you want to make changes that will persist over reboots, use the Windows application. Contrary to what others have stated, the Mac Viewer app does indeed have configuration settings, and they do write out to the config.ini but I would suggest you do not do this. Use the Windows Viewer app or manually modify the config.ini.

The Mac Viewer app looks identical to its Windows counterpart except for the configurations settings and video quality. Yes, you read that correctly; the Windows video quality display is better, on the same hardware. Go figure. I tested this on both a late model 27" iMac and late model Macbook Air, both running Mountain Lion on the Mac side and Windows 7 on the PC side (via BootCamp). Same files, same SD card, the Windows video looks way better.

Below are some screenshots of the Mac Viewer app. You will notice the similarities to the (superior) Windows app all the same functionality (Events, Parking Mode, Normal Mode, date/time, GPS mapping etc.), until you get to the configurations screens. There you encounter extremely limited TimeZone selection and if you save these settings, all bets are off as to what the Blackvue will actually do when it boots up using these settings (not what you expect, that's for sure). My advice; do not use the Mac app to make any configuration changes.

grond.tv/blackvue/blackvue4.jpg

grond.tv/blackvue/blackvue1.jpg

grond.tv/blackvue/blackvue2.jpg

grond.tv/blackvue/blackvue3.jpg

Let's move on to the iOS and Android apps, both also pretty rough. Both looked like they were written by a 8 year old, with an extremely poor and confusing interface, insane choices of font colours and sizes (very light, bright green on a white background!) along with confusing options. To get to the Live View, you have to swipe the top menu to the right (seriously?) and you cannot delete any videos on the SD card only copy them to your iOS or Android device. Copying a 1 minute video (about 55Mb) takes a while at 802.11g speeds so get comfy. You can configure the Blackvue via iOS/Android, which simply modifies the config.ini file and then you have to reboot the Blackvue for it to read the new config.ini. But given what I have said above (especially the font colours!), don't bother. There is no dedicated iPad app that will take advantage of the big 10 inch screen, just a iPhone app that you can double the size. It is actually better to do this than use the app on a iPhone as you can see the screen much better. The Android app is phone sized and looks fairly bad on the Kindle 2 but it is usable.

Parking Mode takes a while to both engage and disengage, but that can be tweaked via the motion sensors configuration. Event Mode, likewise can be tweaked.

Reading this review, it may appear as if I have been overtly negative towards the 500GW-HD, but that is not the case. As I started out saying, my impressions are largely positive. The Blackvue does what it was designed to do record video unobtrusively 24/7, and it does that very, very well.

The camera is remarkably configurable and very capable, far beyond my expectations. Video quality is par excellence for a 2mp CMOS.

I recommend the Blackvue 500GW-HD.

Buy BlackVue Wi-Fi New DR500GW-HD, Car Black Box/Car DVR Recorder, Built-in Wi-Fi, Full HD (1080p@30fps Now

UPDATED 4/12/2013

Upgraded to latest firmware 1.0.5, but didn't notice any new features or improvements. Also switched to using 32GB card and now on a few occasions it wouldn't record. I have to unplug the camera power to start recording again. WiFi feature maybe selling point, but I haven't used it in 2 month. The video feed is choppy and with delay when using live view feature. I covered silver accents with black tape, looks tacky, but at least it doesn't stand out as much now.

Virus issues: There were reports that there is a virus on the sd card from this seller. I have not had this issue because I purchased this from another source, but prior to upgrade my blackvue to 1.0.3 I've actually formatted the card, so I don't know if I had the virus or not.

I've been using different DVRs over the years, mostly Chinese made, this is first Korean DVR and this is the first one that actually I really like and it addressed most of my previous concerns:

THE GOOD

Compact, simple, non distracting design and solid quality feel

No built-in display, it's substituted with WiFi connection to your smartphone which becomes DVR display. Love this feature! Keep in mind there is about 1-2 second delay in the live image. You can also stream live video to a browser without using any apps, simply by entering the following url in the browser (without spaces) h t t p:// 192 .168 .8 .1 / blackvue_live.cgi.

Excellent daylight quality

Low profile mount, but see cons

Parking mode motion sensor, haven't tried yet

Bunch of venting holes for hot climates, I haven't tried it in the hot weather, but it doesn't seem like it would have any issues as previous model

Voice notifications, fun to have at first, but I would rather turn them off

Extra wide angle, you will most likely see the A pillars in your car. If you turn it facing inside the car you will see the sides of the front windows which may be handy, but the image doesn't flip over.

Very easy to view your recordings on a smartphone. (I only tried Android app)

Included wire management clips, nice addon

IR sensor to turn on/off microphone. Interesting feature, but I don't see any practical use to turn off microphone.

THE NOT SO PRETTY

Night quality still has plenty of room for improvement, but overall it's definetely better then most cheap DVRs I've tried

Some minor user interface glitches in the Android app, hopefully will be resolved in the future updates

A bit pricey when there are plenty of HD cameras that cost less

Silver accents are noticeable. Blackboxes should be All-Black-Boxes, but nothing that black tape or marker can't fix.

Design does not allow you to move the camera horizontally

No built in battery, there is however some sort of capacitor that serves purpose of allowing the cam to save the file correctly when there is no power.

Standard bitrate is a bit low at 7000, but with some modding (search forums) you can increase it up to 15000

I've been having mixed feelings with the mount. On one had I understand the stick on clip design, but I prefer non permanent solutions, like suction cups. Also removal of the DVR is a bit cumbersome. You have to first unplug power then click the button to unlock and only then you can remove it from the mount.

It does get warm a bit to the touch, but venting holes help to cool it down fast after powering down.

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I received my purchase which was sent via UPS, 2 day business shipping. The package arrived on time, in great shape and everything inside the same. I had fun installing the camera in my 2012 Tahoe. I mounted it on the windshield, directly in front of my rear-view mirror and ran the cable above the headliner, along the passenger side, down and inside the windshield side support covering, under the dash and to the lighter adapter ( I plan on wiring it directly to the fuse box in the near future).

Before ordering, I had several email conversations with the selling company and they were professional and replied within just a short period of time. They stated that their testing showed the DR500 to run cooler than the DR400 and earlier models (more on that later). They also claimed to be an authorized seller for Pittasoft. I decided to give it a try and placed the order. After I received and set it up, I had a question regarding a setting, so I emailed the manufacturer Pittasoft. Before they would deal with me, they asked for my serial number to verify the product was sold by an authorized dealer. I emailed them the serial number which they indicated was an authorized unit and my questions were answered, however, due to and "only due to" the difference in time between USA and Korea, several back and forth replies took a couple of days.

I have had this in my vehicle for over 2 weeks and the unit runs perfectly. The unit records clear pictures, unfortunately, when I zoom in on a plate of a passing vehicle using the Windows software, most often the plate is unreadable due to the picture's pixels being scattered, and the unit is set at the highest setting, Full HD (1920x1080) @30fps, with no compression; thankfully this is not a deal breaker for me as the rest of the video and sound is exceptional. I did buy a larger 32GB mini SD card which works flawlessly.

The unit has been running 24x7 and goes into the parking mode about 10 minutes after I park in my parking spot. The parking mode records things at by movement, usually locking in on the event 5 seconds before it sees it and then for one minute in length. I'm using the factory settings which seem sufficient for me. One night I had a 1 minute recording at about 2 am. I played the video only to see a small moth walking on the windshield in the vision path of the camera. I liked that, knowing that any passing movement in the middle of the night is recorded.

I want my unit to be as stealth as possible, so in the event that someone were to break in to the vehicle, the recorder would not draw attention, I have all the LED lights settings marked "off" when the unit is operational which still leaves the WI-FI indicator on. I placed a piece of black tape over that LED and now it is totally dark. In addition, I have the voice settings off so an intruder would not be alerted by voice either.

I am currently in Florida and the weather is now in the 80's. With the sun hitting the unit, it does get hot, but then so does everything the sun hits. I have not seen any issues on any of the video, still clear, smooth and good audio. Even out of the sun, the camera is warm to the touch, not hot, and the card, if I pull it out and immediately put it between my lips, it also is warm but does not feel dangerously hot. I'll do an update on the units heat once summer is over or if I have problems sooner, but as of now, I'm very satisfied and don't see a heat issue.

So for now, the following on my likes/dislikes.

Pros:

*Cylinder shape -The unit is horizontal to the window making for a smaller look, so it's not as obviously a recorder is in the vehicle.

*Wi-fi, via an Android App(no screen-again keeping a small inconspicuous footprint) allowing to easily adjust height view, play back and verify everything is working properly. I can view it using my phone or my larger Android tablet, which really is nice. The application also has a settings page where all the camera settings can be adjusted (settings can also can be adjusted using the PC software; I don't have a Mac so I can't say one way or another for that). I have an old unused Droid I have set up with the Android App that is set using only the Wi-fi allowing me to keep it logged into the camera as long as I like.

*Available Settings; normal, event and parking.

-Normal, allows for normal live recording while the vehicle is in motion.

-Event, when an event occurs, such as a sharp corner, fast breaking/acceleration, hard bump, an accident or damage to vehicle, the recorder will ensure that in the case of power loss, the one minute event is saved before the camera can shut down preventing the loss of the data.

-Parked, the camera goes into what I visualize, a none record mode even though the camera sees everything going on in front of it and if and when any movement occurs, it begins recording 5 seconds before the movement and for at least 1 minute or until the movement stops.

*On all the time, so no lag for start up. When I get in the car, the camera has already recorded me approaching from the front and when I start the vehicle, the camera continues on recording.

*Internal clock, minutes are accurate but nonadjustable (this give credibility to the time of the recording), one only needs to adjust the time zone and the clock is right on.

*Long power cord, which should enough for most installations. In addition, unit comes with two 3M window stick-ons (more can be purchased) and 5 or 6 cord hooks that stick to the window or car molding to help direct the power cord.

*GPS system works well and is as accurate as any other GPS system I've used.

*No lag or missed time between video clips

Cons:

*The factory SD card had a Trojan Horse. My antivirus program (Norton) immediately found, quarantined and removed the "autorun.inf" file on the SD card due to it reporting the file infected with W32.Downadup/W32/Conficker. However, if one reads several forum posts about this, it seems this was common on these disks. I formatted the card with the format function built into the camera, all the operational files were automatically reinstalled but W32.Downadup was not. This must have been introduced only to the card when it was made, it is not in the camera software.

*The cost, however, now that it is installed and operational, I feel the cost was reasonable.

*The instruction booklet was translated to English, but it could have been done better, some sentences don't make sense.

*Even though the instruction booklet is in English and touched on most of the options, it did not go into depth about the sensitivity settings, so in the event I need to change them, it will be a bit of trail and error. There is also a "Brightness" setting. I've played with it a little, but I'm not able to see a difference and again, the instructions failed to explain this.

*Most functions of the Android app and Windows software is in English, however, there are a few spots where the English is poor or still in, I believe, Korean.

*The 140 degree view of the camera is nice, however in certain circumstances, mostly with rain or water, the playback view can look like a fish eye. If there were an option of an 120 degree lens, I believe I would opt for that.

Bottom line, I think this is a great unit and I'm glad I opted to buy it. I plan on putting a second camera in my truck, to the rear, however I don't think I will buy another DR500 for this since that unit won't need all the options.

Want BlackVue Wi-Fi New DR500GW-HD, Car Black Box/Car DVR Recorder, Built-in Wi-Fi, Full HD (1080p@30fps Discount?

WARNING: The SD card that came with my Blackvue was infected with Conflicker.B Trojan. Before you plug ANY strange software into your PC make certain autoplay is turned OFF, and scan the new device with a good anti-virus scanner. In my case, Windows Security Essentials (Free) detected the trojan and removed it. After that all seems well.

As for the dashcam itself, it arrived in very nice packaging, everything in English and very professional looking. Setup in the car went flawlessly with plenty of length on the supplied power cord for hiding it under the roof and door trim around to my center console cigarette lighter. Although, since the input pin on the cam is labelled for 12V input, I wish there was an option to buy a cable that fit the power socket on the cam and then could be direct wired into the car's 12V electric system. Even the available BlackBox Pro battery protector has the dashcam going through a lighter plug.

Getting the Cam to connect via WiFi to the android app seems a bit finicky, though I'm starting to suspect that it may just be that I'm too impatient. If I try to connect as soon as the voice notification that normal recording has started is over, I can't get a wifi connection without trying multiple times. If I keep trying, after a few minutes it connects and everything is fine. If I wait 5-10 minutes after turning the camera on, then it connects much quicker.

The video quality is great. The unit does get warm to the touch during operation, but with the vent holes, cools rapidly once powered down. I've been using it for only 2 days now, and we're still in winter, if you can call it that in Texas. I'm very interested to see how it continues to perform through it's first Texas summer in a few months.

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I have both the DR400-HD and the DR500GW-HD

I purchased the DR500GW-HD for it's live view and wifi function. These features are nice but not what I had expected. It's almost a gimmick.

I had imagined the LiveView function to be just that, live view. Unfortunately the live view gives you a video which is delayed, of lower quality and not smooth. It's pretty much only good for adjusting the camera. On both cameras, the "Blackvue" logo can be used to adjust the camera. Align the Blackvue logo horizontally and the camera angle is pretty much set correctly.

Don't expect the wifi connection to be like your home router. If you think you can sit at a cafe and use Live View from across the street you'll be diasppointed. It's only good for a very short distance, less than the stated 10m. Additionally, even with the supplied class 10 microSD card, viewing recorded video through wifi is not a very smooth experience due to a lot of buffering (on multiple iOS and Android devices). On top of that, I occasionally get a "weak signal" error on my android devices when connected so I have to get out of the mobile app and reconnect.

It is 44% bigger (by volume) than the older Blackvue. Not sure why they had to make it so much bigger for the WIFI function but it is noticeably bigger. The camera recording angle is much wider (156 diag/123 hor/90 vert degrees vs 120 diag/98 hor /55 Vert degrees). Although the recording angle much better, it tends to loose some details of license plates.

The biggest problem is the video generated by the DR500GW. It is worse in quality compared to the DR400! In areas with a lot of trees and dark objects, the video quality is horrible with big blocks of pixelation. When viewing the video using the Blackvue windows application (approximately reduced to 30%) the video looks ok but you can still see pixelation. The same video zoomed out to 100% is pretty bad. In other situations the video is comparable to the DR400, just slightly less in quality. The video from the DR400 is also much better at night. The video from the DR500GW at night has too much constrast and looks greenish. The only setting you can change is brightness and mine is set to the lowest level)

Bottom line? Is DR500GW-HD a worthy upgrade? NO! While it has wider recording angle and better cooling, the DR500GW-HD produces lower quality video. Additionally, the Live View and WIFI function doesn't work as expected/implied.

If the bitrate can be increased to improve the video quality (perhaps a low, medium, high instead of just compressed and normal) and the WIFI streaming (both video replay and Live View) works smoothly with longer range, then Pittasoft has a innovative winning product. At the current iteration, it's a down grade from the previous generation.

Tow Ready 119191 ModuLite HD Protector with Integrated Circuit and Overload Protection

I made a light bar for the rear of my R12GS but needed a way to convert from a PMW system such as that of many newer vehicles have now installed. I had tried many different systems available for motorcycles (with poor luck) and finally thought of going the route of using the same setup as a car uses for a trailer. It worked perfectly and my light bar works without fail as well as no need for any resistors for the turn signals. I highly recommend this route for anyone that (like me) is not the best at automotive electrical problems. Note: I had contacted Modulate company for suggestions about using it for a motorcycle and they said they had no information for motorcycles. Still it worked great and will use this method again if ever I need it.

Product worked as advertised and shipping was on time, instructions were very good, this solved my problem with Dodge wiring to my trailer hitch plug.

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I had to purchase this from another retailer. It works fine, installation instructions were OK.

Disappointed with Amazon though item stated "May take an additional 1-2 days to process" but after a full week the item had still not yet shipped.

I had to purchase through another online retailer.

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Usa Spec Pa15-toy 1998-2007 Toyota/lexus/acura iPod/iPhone/iTouch 3G Interface with Aux Input

• Auto Skip 10+ songs in each play list with factory CD Changer FF button
• Auto skip to end of play list with factory CD Changer FF button
• Auto Maintain current play list when migrating from portable to in car use
• Auto Charge feature charges IPOD battery and auto stops after 1 hour of non use
• In some vehicles if Vehicle has existing external CD Changer it must be disconnected.

I'd contemplated buying one of these for a while, but didn't want to go through the hassle of taking my stereo out, and I'm always skeptical that things are going to work properly.

If something happened to my current car and I had to replace it, the first thing I'd buy now is one of these. Installation isn't difficult (tons of instructions on the internet, mine was a 4runner.)

Took a little time to figure out where I wanted to run the cables, but once that was done, I gave it a test run, and I absolutely couldn't be happier.

I have the 6 disc in dash changer, so this shows up as a secondary cd changer. the ipod controls are fantastic. I was really impressed when I had a song playing on the ipod (in direct mode) and hit FM to reset my stations and I noticed that it had automatically paused the ipod when I switched away to a different stereo mode. As soon as I returned to the external cd changer (which is what the radio thinks the ipod is) it unpaused and I picked up right where I'd left off.

As for features, the artist / track listing is great, since I don't have to look down to see whats playing (if its a song I haven't heard in a while from my ipod), and being able to get a shuffle going from the stereo is great. press the "rand" button, and it starts a shuffle from inside the current playlist. audio quality both from the ipod and using it as an aux port (with the rca inputs) is top notch.

Overall, I'd absolutey recommend this to anyone looking to add an aux or ipod port to their existing stereo, it has breathed new life into mine, prior to this I had been contemplating buying a new stereo, I'm good with what I have now.

Buy Usa Spec Pa15-toy 1998-2007 Toyota/lexus/acura iPod/iPhone/iTouch 3G Interface with Aux Input Now

Wow I own a 2003 Sequoia with the in-dash 6 disc changer. I googled the best advice for removing the radio. Gotta love Toyotas...two screws to remove the dash trim, four more to remove the radio. I had the PA15 wired and installed in 10 minutes. Radio back in the dash, trim kit reinstalled, here goes nothing... is this thing really going to work?

YES!!!! Works like a champ. Exactly as advertised. Here is the best part I couldn't find any reviews that mentioned attempting to hook up an iPad to the dock. So, with some trepidation I tried it.... it worked perfectly! I was sitting in my garage picking up the wifi from the house, streaming Pandora on my iPad through the stereo on the truck. Awesome! No more commercials and crappy FM signals in my vehicle.

The iPod functions work as advertised too. Installation was a snap, product is awesome.

Read Best Reviews of Usa Spec Pa15-toy 1998-2007 Toyota/lexus/acura iPod/iPhone/iTouch 3G Interface with Aux Input Here

WOW! I couldn't ask for an easier product to install and use! I have a 2005 Tacoma with the factory head unit. If you are looking to just add an iPod or iPhone feature this is the best way to go.

It seems a little expensive for what you get in the box. but honestly if you have half a brain you can install your self and save on the install cost.

Want Usa Spec Pa15-toy 1998-2007 Toyota/lexus/acura iPod/iPhone/iTouch 3G Interface with Aux Input Discount?

Great device! It allows your IPod to act in place of an external CD changer. The device simulates 9 CD's, as follows:

----> 1-6: The first 6 playlists on your IPod. Or you can rename them as the instructions indicate to specify which ones you want it to read.

----> 7: All songs on your IPod.

----> 8: Direct control of the IPod device.

----> 9: Auxiliary input (such as the headphone jack on your phone, other MP3 player).

You can control 1-7 directly through your stereo and steering wheel controls. 8 & 9 are directly controlled from the device you have connected.

Installation was pretty easy for my 4Runner (non-JBL/non-nav head unit). I googled a walk through as a guide for getting to the stereo. The page suggested a 2 hour install time, however, it only took me 45 minutes to disassemble the dash, remove the radio, connect the device, test/play with it, and reassemble everything. It was extremely easy. (I definitely recommend using a ratchet/socket wrench!!)

I love the interface and functionality, the sound quality, dual inputs (ipod and aux), and ease of install, and would definitely recommend this device!

This product works great. It sounds great in the car and was VERY easy to install. I did it myself in just under an hour on a 2006 Toyota Corolla. Would recommend this to other music lovers who don't enjoy the static that an FM transmitter provides.

Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 1999 Ford Expedition With Do-It-Yourself Programming

'Amazon.com' truly amazes me with their superb prices and lightning fast shipping. Had a lil' issue programming the 1999 Ford Expedition Remote Entry Key Fob (since my oldest son kept losing keys which is another subject) but after fiddling for about 15 minutes discovered I had to step on the brake entire time which stated was only on Ford Econoline vans. Besides that issue I am truly happy since the dealership wanted almost $80. Can't beat that with a baseball bat :)

Was delivered on time and the instructions were easy to follow. I bought this for my sister-inlaw who's fob wasn't working too well, even with a batter change. This new fob is like factory new.

Buy Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 1999 Ford Expedition With Do-It-Yourself Programming Now

I bought this for a friend whose alarm remote had broken. These things seem to mysterious, but it really was easy to program. We simply followed the directions, very specifically, and voila! It was programmed...and for considerably less than if she had gone to the dealership for a replacement.

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My last fob was failing when I these arrived. (Believing in redundancy, I bought three new ones.) The instructions were clear and easily followed, so programming all three took less than 45 seconds. What a relief, and what an excellent product.

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Easy set up, looks good, no problem. Only gave it four stars because it doesn't have the ford logo on it, and well, ahem, I wish it had the features of the newer model cars, but at 4 bucks, it's a STEAL!!!

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