Whistler Pro-2000W 2,000 Watt Power Inverter

I am an over the road truck driver and we bought a Cuisinart K-Cup coffe maker that draws 1500 watts of power and my 1500 watt inverter could not handle it. We installed this inverter and upgraded the inline fuses to 80 amps and it works like a charm. It can be a bit noisy under load but for the price I am VERY pleased. We have been using for three months so far.

Did not last 2 months. Powered a microwave about 5 times, a coffee pot about 10, and a laptop on occasion. Now it starts whining with an audible alarm and shuts down regardless what I try to power with it. Also the built in USB port didn't never work either, would not even charge an iPad. I am just outside the window of return with it so now I must contact the company who made it and hope for the best.

Edit 7/25/2012

I have come back to report that I never was able to get this company to respond concerning the failure of this unit or any type of RMA. I have resigned to the fact that I threw away almost $200 and I am having to order a different brand now from another company in hopes for the best. I do not recommend this brand

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I did my research, and looked over countless reviews. I bought the Whistler Pro-2000 watt power inverter, and I am VERY HAPPY!!! I am a trucker so I know what I am talking about when it comes to the needs of everyday power inverter use. I didn't want to have to use all 4 batteries to run a power inverter. I was using a Sima STP 1500 watt power inverter, and it always had problems running my 700 watt micro wave. I installed my Whistler Pro-2000 watt today and it worked just great. I am all smiles. My micro wave worked great without any problems. The digital read out told me how many watts I was using, and the 3 fans on the back kept it nice and cool. The old inverter would take 4 min. to cook a bag of popcorn, I guess because it wasn't supplying enough power. With my Whistler I was able to cook the same bag of popcorn in 2:30 min. and it almost burnt the popcorn, that is how well it performed. I will continue to update this review when I test it even further.

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Will run a 1300 watt microwave no problem (1700 watt at peak). Lots of hissing on light bulbs, both Incandescent and CFLs. But if you have any old CRTs lying around that you are going to be using, you will need a Pure Side Wave Inverter.

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This is my first inverter so I have no point of reference to compare it to, but it's meeting my expectations in every way. Do read the reviews for this and other Whistler models as well as other inverters to avoid the mistake of thinking you can plug this into your cigarette lighter and you're done it ain't that simple! Please, please forget using your cigarette lighter with any inverter over 200W right now...you are almost certain to toast fuses or wiring in your car.

And oh yeah, a complete solution is not as cheap as this single item either.

My biggest complaint was about grounding the unit. There is a ground connector but not much detail about *how* to ground it or *why* to ground it in the manual. Searching around on the web I found posts suggesting that (1) you don't really need to ground it and indeed it works just fine without a ground wire, (2) if you don't ground it you will die, and (3) if you DO ground it you will die. I think I got that resolved (more later). My only other complaint is trivial: the supposedly always-powered USB port on mine is only powered when the switch is on. Not a huge deal.

I bought this to supply power to a few items in my house in the event of a sustained power grid failure caused by something like an ice storm or a hurricane, both of which I've experienced. I've had a gasoline generator for years but it took up lots of room, had to be maintained (oil/filter changes, keeping the tires inflated, exercising it periodically) and I had to remember to go buy lots and lots of flammable gasoline to store when the weather looked nasty (and provide space for all those gasoline containers). After reading a lot on the web I sold and replaced it with a solution consisting of...

* this Whistler 2000W inverter (up to 4000 starting watts you need to understand the difference between starting and running watts before you even think about buying an inverter or a generator!)

* two 12V 110 amp deep-cycle sealed AGM batteries to supply power to the inverter (you need to understand all those buzzwords too like deep-cycle, sealed and AGM)

* several not-too-cheap cables to connect the two 12V batteries together in parallel (a.k.a. a "battery bank"), then to connect them to the inverter (the inverter wants to be fed 200 amps; two 110 amp batteries in parallel provide 220 amps to make it happy; my car's alternator provides only 105 amps and yours probably doesn't provide much either, you need to understand parallel vs. serial battery banks)

* a "smart" charger to keep the two 12V batteries ready for use

* a few very robust extension cords

* a rolling utility cart to put all this heavy stuff on (the batteries are about 90 lbs. each)

* a ramp to let me roll the cart up two steps into the house from the garage

That got me started and that's almost all. This let me try to power the items I want to be able to run in an extended outage, including:

* my refrigerator/freezer, a recent model from Samsung that is very efficient, it starts and runs fine off the inverter

* as many CFL-equipped lamps as you'd like as well as a few electric fans they draw virtually no wattage; knock yourself out

* essential electronics including a laptop, cable modem, wireless router, NAS adapter, external hard drive, wireless printer, VOIP phone box, cordless phone base station, cell phone and tablet chargers but *not* the UPS that these are usually plugged into the UPS didn't like the inverter (I learned that a UPS *is* an inverter system with battery all in a box)

That left me with one essential item that wouldn't run: an older model, not very efficient portable/room-to-room air conditioner. It wanted more starting watts than the inverter could supply. Solution: do without the air conditioner or buy a newer, more efficient one. Still looking at that. I'll update this review when I figure out what I'm going to do.

One last problem: in an extended power grid failure, how do I recharge my battery bank when it has been depleted? I thought about cranking up the car and connecting jumper cables from its battery to the battery bank, but read too many posts online that made me uncertain about the wisdom and safety of that. Then the light bulb came on: another inverter, just a smaller one. My car's alternator will easily power a 400W inverter ($32, about the price of a good set of jumper cables). My "smart" charger only uses 150W. So for another $32, my car becomes a 400W 115V generator that runs the smart charger that replenishes the big inverter's battery bank. Problem solved. (Actually, I went for an 800W inverter for around $50 so that I could recharge the battery bank and still power some other items during the recharge my car's 105 amp alternator can handle the 800W inverter's 80 amp requirement with no problem. Your next assignment is to find out how many amps your car's alternator puts out.)

Confused yet? I was too and I'm still learning, but I think I've put together a pretty low-maintenance, high-reliability solution for a power failure lasting several days. I have around $1,000 in it and expect it to last for years. Just wanted to give a plug to this product while making people aware that there is a lot more to this than just buying an inverter.

Oh yeah, about grounding the inverter: that was easy. The ground lug is there to ground the inverter's case to the chassis of the inverter itself inside the case. Just connect an 18 or 16 gauge wire between the inverter's negative input terminal and the ground lug. I got this from Whistler tech support. I don't know why the unit can't just be supplied that way. Anyway, I've run it for hours with and without that ground wire and it works just fine. Like any electrical device, pay attention to what you're doing and be careful!

I have my cooking and heating needs covered for an extended period without electricity which is why they're not mentioned here.

Comments welcomed. Seems like I learn something new about this topic every day.

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Husky Liners Custom Fit WeatherBeater Molded Front and Second Seat Floor Liner for Select Chevrolet

These have worked nicely and I'd highly recommend them so you don't ruin the factory supplied ones. If you're thinking about itjust do it-

Installed these and have no worries about thrashing up the carpeting. I live in Ann Arbor, Mi, and the interior gets full of snow and ice and mud throughout the seasons.

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Fits the car well, functional, but the material from which the mats are made keeps reminding me of the trays supermarkets use to hold their meat.

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Husky Liners Custom Fit WeatherBeater Molded Front and Second Seat Floor Liner for Select Hyundai E

Just bought a new Hyundai Elantra with a light interior. I have a 12 year old so decided to protect my new investment with the mats. Best thing I ever did. 2 days after putting the mats in it rained. Mud every where. Picked up my son from school and mud all over his shoes. Mats worked great. Just an FYI-these mats do not have a soft rubber feel. They are ridged plastic. Easy to clean.

It has saved me a lot of stress with my brand new car! Worth the price! So happy I bought it! I recommend to any one who wants to keep a clean car.

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I had Husky Liners in my last vehicle. I immediately bought them for my new car and they fit like a glove!

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fits well, I will buy some for out dodge truck, They are easy to take out and clean.for the price they are the best value for my needs

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I have WeatherBeaters in all of my vehicles. Living in Oregon, in the winter one does get muddy wet shoes. My WeatherBeaters are in my vehicles all winter. Excellent fit, good looks, well worth the price.

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Custom Automotive Kill Switch Kit

My wife's car keys were taken at the gym. To prevent the thief from coming back later for the car I installed this. I'm 63, average fix-it skills and was able to run the wires from the fuse box under the hood to where I put the switch near the driver seat with some effort. The wires went into the fuse box on our 2009 Corolla by following the existing wire bundle with no mod to the fuse box cover.To connect to the fuse panel the switch came with 2 crimp type fork connectors with one fork cut off. I changed those to crimp type flag connectors and 2 brass tap connectors (Wirthco Tap-a-Circuit #30102) It made a more solid connection and the switch works perfectly.

This product is ok. It doesn't connect into the fuse compartment right in keeping the fuse door closed. I disconnected it because it kept killing my truck when I didn't want it to.

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Schumacher PSW-61224 DSR ProSeries 250/200/150 Amp 6/12/24 Volt Manual Wheel Battery Charger/Starter

I have found this battery charger to be just the right product for my boating applications. It is quite versitile and has the capacity to charge our heavy duty 24 volt system in a short time.

Quick charge & the 24 volt is a great feature to boost when a excavator batteries are low and need to start

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Easy to use, versatile, needed 24v and it works great. I like the non conductive fiberglass bar to hold the battery clamps when not in use.

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Recommend to all farm and fleet businesses, we have been selling for a few years and our customers are very happy with this unit

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Does everything it was required to do. Using it on a 2 yard loader & other heavy equipment. Works Great!

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Schumacher PS-2100MA DSR ProSeries 2/15/100 Amp 6/12 Volt Automatic or Manual Bench Battery Charger

Sorry never got a chance to try it out. Someone stole it off the front porch in broad daylight. I'm upset and I want to order another one. Those are very nice and handy. Thank you.

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BlackVue New DR400G-HD II(Season 2), Car Black Box/Car DVR Recorder, Full HD (1080p@30fps), G Senso

• Full HD Video: High Definition & High Frame Rate, Extended recording time with a high compression rate
• 2 megapixel CMOS sensor, Diagonal 120, horizontal 98, Built-in microphone, High-Capacity Meory Card Support (up to 32GB)
• Various Recording Modes, Motion Dection in Parking Mode Recording, 360 rotation cylinder in sleek design, Full HD label
• Universal File Format: MP4, Video Playback on various devices, BlackVue App and Software(for PC), MyWay Viewer
• Built-in GPS and G-sensor, Internal Emergency battery, Voice Guide, 3-color LEDs, Video out

I bought this item just about 3 weeks ago and I have been using it for 2 weeks. It has several advantages. First of all it is small and really easy mountable on the car screen, it is almost not visible while you are driving because it is hidden by rear-view mirror, you can just see LED that shows you mode of device.

Then video. Quality is perfect and could be played by any player that can play MP4.

Also, when you insert SD card to the camera and start it it will place all software in it.

It places it's own video player.

This player seems a bit complicated at first glance but is really good, due to device records not only video but also supplementary info. it can show you your position and speed based on GPS data, time (you have to specify your time zone), sort files by 3 types (normal, event, park). Also if you choose a date it will show what hour you were driving, minutes, seconds, you can click on the desired time and it will view the file that corresponds this date.

Also package contains 4 cable holders that allow you to properly mount power cable.

Just 2 small disadvantages: not very loud sound recording and quite sensitive G sensor.

Overall 5 of 5

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I got home the other day and found this order from Amazon. I opened it up, then considered sending it back. It was not the unit which I thought I had ordered. Plus in reading the instructions, it says that the software is on the memory card. The accompanying memory card was blank. (BTW. It uses micro cards.)

Then I got onto the Internet to check it out. It was rated as having the best quality image that you could get from an auto accident camera. I had to try it out, at least, before sending it back. I figured that I would compare it to another Accident Camera that I have for in different vehicle.

I installed it in my car today. It uses a base with a double-sided sticker to attach to the windshield. Once you touch it to the glass, it's there permanently. I did not get mine level. I should have taken more time, as it says in the instructions.

Insert the unit in it's base, then insert the memory card, then attach the power. It's main modes are normal mode for driving. Event mode which is automatic when you hit a bump. And parking mode where it only saves files if there is something moving in the image. It also shuts off automatically when power gets low so that the camera does not to run your battery down while your car is parked. It has indicators to tell you which mode it is in, plus a voice will tell which mode it is in. It switches modes automatically.

The 1st thing it did was format the memory card and save it's software to the card. They claim that the software is compatible with PCs, some smart phones, and some GPS units which accept memory cards. All that I know is that it works on my laptop with Win 7.

One of the odd things is that all of the adjustments to the camera is done to the software on the memory card after the camera formats it. It starts up with the time zone set for Europe. It also starts up set for KPH instead of MPH. Everything is in English. You will have to adjust the time zone and set it to MPH. The software uses the entire height of a PC screen. I could not adjust software information page on my computer screen.

I took the camera for a spin. The video was excellent, compared to my other accident camera.

I'm keeping the camera.

I uploaded a video from this camera, but Amazon hasn't it live, yet. It's HD video and may be too large.

I posted the same video on Youtube, but Amazon has blocked it out. Just search Youtube for "BlackVue DR400G-HD II".

There are 2 versions of this camera. One is Korean and normally is only sold in Korea, according to the information available. The other is for the rest of the world, which is the one that I received from Amazon.

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I've had the Blackvue installed in my Tundra for about 3 weeks now and I'm impressed for the most part. One major drawback is if your model vehicle's cigar lighter shuts off after so long with iginition turned off (to prevent car battery drainage). Then the camera turns off and you won't have video footage if someone hits your parked car. Apperently there's some "Power T" battery pack available out there to fix this problem. Doesn't seem to be availble for purchase at the moment. Still looking.

Camera clarity is good for the price. I could take snapshots from the micro-SD card onto my laptop of License plates and street signs that are readable. The incident mode trigger is a little sensitive at times even after adjustment but not a big deal, can easily ignore or turn way down or off, but better to error on the side of safety anyways. The motion sensor is super sensitive during daylight when turned up: raindrops, leaves blowing by, blinking lights set it off easily. It's not the greatest at nighttime though without a minimal amount of light, so park in a well-lit area or install a motion security light near your driveway. It will come on with cars passing by with their lights light, but someone creeping in the dark-I wouldn't count on it: hence the Viper system also installed.

The camera is easily concealed behind the mirror so people don't get too curious. GPS works great. Sound is good. Overall, I'd give this camera a 5 if they included some back-up battery pack system so I can keep it in actual parking mode for multiple days without draining my battery. It only uses 4V in full 1080 HD mode so, it probably would take a long time anyways.

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If you try to update the firmware from the manufacturer, the unit tells you that it is a different model. This is the same problem noted on the reviews of the 400-1, read those before you buy. The unit gets very hot. Combine that with direct sun from the windshield and you can imagine how hot! This will be a good unit if they can work out the problems, not worth the money as it is. I am really sorry I bought it.

While the original DR400G-HD was plagued with reliability problems, this version claims to resolve the overheating issue. The main problems in the original camera are as follows:

Purple Light of Death

Burned out Camera

Deteriorating Picture Quality

"Please check SD card" error

Many people suspect the first 3 problems listed are a direct result of the camera overheating.

Overheating

Unfortunately it does not appear that the overheating problem has truly been resolved. Even though the default bit rate is much lower, many users complain the camera gets very hot and there are reports of overheating cameras.

Here is a video of a brand new BlackVue DR400G-HD II Season 2 with excellent video quality.

http://dashcamtalk.com/blackvue-dr400g-hd-ii/

Iqua miniUFO Bluetooth Speakerphone (Black)

It's pricey, but it's worth every penny. Small, unobtrusive, fits great on the visor. Charges while you use it from dash outlet, and holds a charge for a long time. Sound quality is excellent, both receiving and sending. I found one on eBay about 8 months ago and have been using it daily since. Love it. Also have a Jabra unit; much larger, ugly, too heavy for visor, sound not nearly as good. Get the UFO, you won't be sorry.

Q7 Car DVR Camera HDMI AV-OUT 2.0 Inch TFT Screen car dvr camera recorder HD 720P Night Vision 140

this product works great! it may look cheaply made but it has not failed me yet.

taking night time video is not so good.

but overall for the money you pay it is a good product.

Python 580 Responder Remote Start/Keyless Entry System

• Long-range 2-way remote start system with keyless entry
• Confirms commands and system triggers with the Responder LE remote's Ghostlight indicators and tones
• Multiple time and temperature remote start modes
• Includes one Responder LE 2-way remote and one companion 1-way remote
• OEM Security Alert input
• Multiple time and temperature remote start modes Includes one Responder LE 2-way remote and one companion 1-way remote

I installed a one-way version of this on my 2000 Monte Carlo last fall. Installed the 580 on my wife's 2009 Vue this fall. The installation can be done yourself if you can read diagrams and use a volt meter. You must buy the proper interface module loaded with software to make it work in your car. I found one on that auction site that starts with an E. Using the DB-All interface, I only had to hook up 7 wires. Took about two days, but i am extremely obsessive about making things look stock. This unit has excellent range. It tells you if the vehicle received the signal, no hoping and guessing if it started. I am very satisfied! The setup would cost around $500 installed at a retail store, and you never know who is hacking into the wires under your dash.

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Installed the Python 580 myself in my '06 Honda Ridgeline about 1 month ago. So far, the system works great; even at -20F in North Dakota. The install took around 8 to 10 hours, but much of that time was spent researching the installation since only a wiring diagram is provided; no install instructions. Actually wiring it up was pretty easy. If you're not familiar with electronics or electrical systems I would advise having it installed for you. Be sure to order an immobilizer bypass module if you're installing this in a modern car. I used the DBALL from XpressKit (also made by Directed Electronics). I connected it to the Python 580 using the D2D connection, and it works perfectly. I can control all the same functions as the factory key fob with the Python fob. No extra key is need for the DBALL either, which is nice. Range is plenty far for what I need to start my truck from across the office and parking lot. The 2 way functions take a little memorizing, but are easy to use (cabin temp, lock status, run time remaining, etc...). All in all, I'm very satisfied with this remote starter.

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The system works great, a lot of features, be careful, is not a securiy system, is just a keyless entry system. The remotes are a little low quality plastic. But everything else is great.

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This unit works well, however the battery door on both remotes has broken, and I am having a tough time finding replacement parts

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This remote start is reliable but the battery cover broke easily. I can't find a replacement anywhere. I have to use tape to hold the cover.

Power Bright PW2300-12 Power Inverter 2300 Watt 12 Volt DC To 110 Volt AC

So I have had this inverter for a little over a week now, I have tested it for the last few days, this thing is the real deal at a nice price. I had mine running 2 LG 10,000 btu window air conditioners to see if it would work and it worked like a charm! At first i ran the ac units and the wire was getting a little hot at the connections so I used a heavier gauge wire and a better connector and it works great. This inverter was worth every penny in my opinion. I made a battery pack that it connects to power all my fun camping stuff for when I go camping. The product itself is made nicely even the remote looks sweet, they could have cut corners on a lot of things but instead they did not. I love power bright just for that! For those of you that are wondering the inverter itself starts beeping at around 10.5v and its not a loud annoying beep that you will find on other inverters, its gentle to my ears. Also the unit turns off completely @ 10.3v

If you get this unit be sure to read the manual, its pretty short and sweet and has some useful info in it as well. Use 2 gauge or 0 gauge for best results. Make sure you use this with a deep cycle battery for optimum power. I'm extremely picky when it comes to buying anything that is electronic and I can honestly tell you that I cant find anything to complain about at all.

UPDATE!!! Ive had this inverter for about a year and a half now. I use it for satellite power where I need it on job sites and use it 90% of the time. Ive run just about all the big tools you can imagine for a contractor. Big table saws, tile cutters, reciprocating saws, hammer drills, impact drills, shop vacs, my compressor which is a rigid contractor roofing compressor,hell even my 120v ac welder at max setting purrs like a kitten with this thing :) drill chargers, masonry stone cutters (those babies need some serious power cutting through rock!!! I must say this inverter still makes me smile every morning it starts up no problem even though I use it a lot. I cant tell you how many hours i have racked up on old blue. Its well over 1000 by now, That's right i named her ;) I must say i would trust this thing with my life. If you use it all the time like me blow out the fans every 6 months or so to keep them flowing properly. If you keep the fans working this baby will last forever.

After doing much research, my being a nuclear/mechanical engineer & all, I elected to purchase this inverter, so as to power various appliances in our new RV, including a microwave oven, TV, stereo, etc. But instead of just installing it, without knowing what it's real limitations might be, I elected to test it 1st, by hooking it up to numerous ever increasing loads. So initially I used some non-recommended but still very high quality 6 gauge cables that I had lying around, thinking that they should work, just for my brief test period. At this point the inverter failed miserably, by only putting out approx. 600 watts, vs. it's rated 2300 watts = much disappointment. But a call to Power Brights Technical Support Dept. (they are excellent & most helpful) quickly determined that my cables were most likely the problem, as this inverter reportedly looks back at the resistance of the cable, vs. the load which is ramping up, at which point the inverter shuts down rather prematurely, as it's designed to, for safety reasons. In any case, their recommended use of 2-gauge cable, which is clearly stated in the provided Owners manual (I used 2-gauge very flexible welding cables, 6' long) immediately solved my very low output problem, hence this inverter now puts out > 4000 watts surge, with around 3000 watts continuous. So in lieu of it initially just being able to run a 500 watt floodlight, it can now start & run my basements 1/3rd hp sump pump, in conjunction with a 1400 watt microwave, in addition to the 500 watt floodlight, in addition to my 500 watt 3/8 drill, "all starting simultaneously", without a single hesitation, nor peep of any kind. In the meantime, the cables themselves remain at room temperature, with just a slight increase in temperature in the inverters metal case, with not a single cooling fan coming on, even with these rather heavy loads, hence there is no noise what so ever. In summary, this device easily exceeded all of my expectations (powerful & quiet), as I have yet to even find its true load limit. In reality, I'll only be using approx. 1/2 of this inverters output, with plenty of margin, should I need to run a power tool or something, while the microwave is on, and the stereo blaring, etc. And if I had to do all over again, I would purchase the 0-gauge, already made up 6' long power cables from Amazon for ~ $50., along with a $10. Bussmann fuse holder from NAPA (which I did, as it's identical to the 2 fuses holders that already came with our RV from the factory), along with a 225 amp Bussmann fuse for $5. (it's a near perfect match for this inverter), also from NAPA (ie. Amazon offers neither of these products for some reason). So nice job all around by Power Bright = Easy 5 Star Rating.

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This inverter is great. It's the perfect alternative to a gas generator. I use it for back up power at home. My wood stove heats the house and this inverter powers my whole den. Cable TV, computer, lights, microwave, etc. I run a string of christmas lights up the stairs to the kithen and bedrooms. My power source is a Diehard PM-1 deepcycle marine platinum battery. It's on trickle charge all the time. A user note is to keep the cord to the TV as short as possible to minimize RF interference. you can also coil up the AC cord to work as an inductive RF choke.

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Bought the Power Bright PW2300 as back up power to operate my sump pump and freezer in case of power outages due to hurricane Irene. In a dry run (as it were), I hooked up to my car battery using the recommended 4 gauge connectors and it powered up the sump pump motor ok. But it just could not get the freezer motor to turn on. I knew that pumps can require higher initial starting power than their running power need but felt that I had bought a unit with sufficient power head room. Based on another reviewer's comments, I returned it and bought the Whistler pro 2500 watt inverter for a few dollars less. The Whistler had not come up in my original search so I did not know about it until I noticed the review later. Hooked it up and the freezer started right up no problem. Maybe the difference between "2300" and "2500" was the extra umph that I needed. If you are trying to power household devices then I recommend going with the 2500 as a minimum. As a bonus, the wattage out indicator in the Whistler worked much better than the Power Bright's which often did not indicate watts if they were too low.

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First one arrived late March 2010. Watt meter did not read anything and the remote was broke. The box had no visual damage to it so I figure it was in the packing at the company. Paid for the shipping back to company. Second one arrived late April 2010 and everything has been good up to Nov 30, 2010, just over 7 months and now one of the outlets are bad. You can hear the crackling when something is plugged into it. Called the company and YES, I have to pay for the shipping AGAIN back to them from Maine to Florida to be repaired. The company told me I should have a spare anyways just in case something like this happens. Great $200 to $250.00 sitting on the shelf, yea right. It will not happen again with this company. I will sell this unit when it arrives back to me fixed and I will order from a different company this week. This inverter will end up costing me over $50.00 more now because of the extra shipping and finding another way to run my freezer and lights. Screw them!

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Swift Hitch SH02 Portable Wireless Camera System

I've only used this twice so far and both times it has proven to be a real treat to have, as I didn't need the wife's help to get our trailer hooked up to the truck. I was able to back up and stop in the perfect spot the very first time. No more in and out, in and out, move an inch to the left, no the other left and so on. Anybody that has a trailer knows exactly what I'm saying. It was easy to charge both units, easy to set up and very easy to use. The magnet works great and I know I'll use the suction cups on the back of our trailer sooner or later. My only bit of disapointment was trying to see the screen when it is really sunny outside, as the brightness seems to make the actual picture very, very light gray and tough to see the screen clearly. I've not yet used it in the dark, but I'm sure it will be great there. I'm really glad I went with the SH02 model rather than the SH01, as the carry case with the foam protection around each piece is great, with all the charging cords and everything needed to use this set-up was in there, also I wanted the suction cup set-up as well. In my opinion, it was a good deal for the price!

PLEASE READ THE ADDITIONAL COMMENTS ATTACHED TO THIS REVIEW, BEYOND MY ORIGINAL POSTING.

We bought the kit that included the suction cups which are needed for vehicles with fiberglass hatches, tail gates, etc. The suction cups are connected to a triangle metal plate which substitutes a metal plate for the camera unit to stick to. The suction cup adapter fell off the glass window of a Tahoe. We then wet the suction cups with basically the same result. The magnetic base camera unit has a tendency to slide on all metal surfaces that I tried. This is not good.... The actual magnet in the base of the unit is recessed ever so slightly so that actual metal to magnet contact is not achieved. The magnetic "force" causes some magnetic field to hold it in place but the vibrations from backing up the car cause it to slide. In other words, the magnet is not strong enough to hold it in place. I called the manufacturing company and they had no helpful suggestions. I am going to try and remove the magnet and install a thin spacer to raise the actual magnet above the camera's metal base. That way, the actual magnet should make contact with a metal surface. The recession in the base is very minimal, but just enough to weaken the sticking power of the magnet. I am not exactly sure how I am going to fix the suction cup issue.

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This item is a nice piece of kit but has 2 important drawbacks: its very difficult to see the screen in the typical bright sunlight that many times I have to hitch; and the screen is too small to see dark detail. Part of the problem is that if the hitch itself is in shadow, the camera light sensor darkens the image to compensate for the area its receiving thus making the ball or the bar (Hensley hitch)impossible to discern. You can adjust the camera view but there are just so many places on which you can mount the camera that will also accommodate a sight angle that eliminates bright areas so that the hitch is viewable.

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The camera works well and my husband hitched the boat by himself on the first try.

He also uses the camera when he works on the car. In the past, he would use a flashlight and a mirror to look for items he couln't see under the hood. Now he uses the camera and can also do this at night since the camera operates well in the dark. The camera is used to look up into the fireplace, under the house, in the attic and for lost toys under the bed and couches.I recomend this to everyone.

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About half the price of factory option for a backup camera. Plus with the 10h li battery life of this second generation (SH02) camera, I can use it for wireless nighttime security camera of my campsite when camping in the popup. Hey raccoon, get away from that ice chest!. Can move the camera to the back of trailer to assist in backing into campsite as well. Oh, the included custom foam cut case is top quality, too.

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METRA Ltd GRT6 Metra: Ring Term 4GA 3/8-GOLD

• 4GA 3/8 - GOLD 10 PAIRS

Not that anyone really sees these (we used them for power distribution on our solar power system) but these things are simply gorgeous. They worked beautifully, too. I have an aversion to crimping, so these were actually soldered to the #4 wires out of our 50AMP charge controllers to the fuse holders, disconnects, and batteries. Easy, clean soldering job. We'll be keeping a supply of these on hand.