- Long-range 2-way confirmation remote start system
- Perfect for adding remote start to OEM keyless entry
- Long-range Car Finder feature (requires horn connection)
- Includes two micro-sized 1-button remotes w
- Can unlock doors with engine running with optional connections
I thought this would be a good purchase to replace a failed Bulldog remote starter. Out of the box the install was easy and the instructions were really good. I got it installed in an hour or so. Checked everything out and it started on the first try. I was pleased at that point. After that the honeymoon was over. 3 out of ten starts the remote just buzzes at you with a red LED. If you hit the button for 3 seconds the car will flash it's lights so I know it's not out of range. You try to start it again and the red LED just flashes at you. Maybe the next time it will start the car I can't figure out what the pattern is that makes this happen. Both remotes do it. So it has to be something with the brain telling the remote that it can't start.
Yes, I did check the manual and there is nothing on what a red LED means. Nice. I called tech support and the answer I got was take it back to the place that you had it installed. I told the guy I installed it myself. He explained to me that support for this product is not available to DIY installers. only authorized dealer installers are able to get tech support. His first answer to my problem was to hit the button twice. WTF? Does the guy even know his own product. His next question was were did you buy it from. I told him Amazon. He said the only retailer on-line authorized to sell this product line is Crutchfield. So Buyer beware if you have a problem with this thing and need some help. So if Crutchfield is the only authorized on-line reseller then what happens if you install it yourself when you bought it from them?
It's going back.
1 week later
So after not getting a response from Direct Tech or the local rep. Who by the way was a total moron. RT Grim. I figured I would triple check everything before sending it back. I was able to duplicate the problem. There isn't anything in either the users guide or the installation guide. Which by the way is some kind of super secret document never to be seen by those other than the privileged Direct tech dealer/installers. Try searching on the net for it. There DIY line is pretty much the same thing without as many features. Anyway, the problem turned out to be the hood pin switch. When the car drove around over bumpy road the chassis of the car tweaked enough to just make the hood switch. When one of the safety inputs causes the remote start to not work with this model of remote starter the response from the remote is a solid red LED and a really annoying beep sound. THIS IS NOT DOCUMENTED ANYWHERE IN THE MANUAL AT ALL!!!!! WTF!!!!!
All they needed was a one line bullet point telling you anywhere in the reference guide what a solid red LED response code is. I find it pathetic that a local installer and the tech support didn't know what this meant. Now that it works I am happier with the purchase. But because of the crap tech support and how Direct tech ideally only wants to deal with dealers I won't buy from them again.
Oh, and when the unit is out of range it does flash the red LED. But in a certain sequence which is also not in the manual. So overall the documentation will tell you the connections but that's about it. The trouble shooting section sucks. Since this thing can talk with the remote the fail code should relay back to the remote so that the user can tell what the failure is. How hard would that be? Yes, with a solid red LED it does sort of tell you it failed. But, since it is not in the manual and you have to get to the brain to see the LED for the diagnostic code it isn't to user friendly. If it fails to start the diagnostic code should flash on the remote.
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This remote start was installed in a 93 Toyota P/U, Manual and fuel injected. My vehicle had no special options, such as power locks, windows, installed alarm, etc.
I'm currently stationed in Alaska and a remote start is pretty much a necessity up here. I did some research before purchasing this system and determined that this was a no/low frills unit and would exactly meet my needs. Below are a few things that I would point out to people interested in purchasing and installing this themselves:
This unit will integrate into a vehicle with an existing "factory" alarm. This was determined by the options in the wiring diagram to attach to the existing alarm system.
You will also have the option to have this remote start to "power up" x2 or x3 options. Two are high power options, one of which I attached to the blower motor (as recommended in the instructions), the other high power options they recommended connecting to the rear defroster. If I remember correctly, there was an additional 12v accessory output which wasn't a large wire/high power option. Just don't EXACTLY remember...
Another option that this system includes is automatic lock/unlock of the door locks. My vehicle didn't have that feature so I can't exacly go into depth on the setup and operation.
This system has a sensor that will help to know when to shut the starter down on the vehicle when it has "started". Once I read how this worked I was VERY happy with this purchase and the operation. Many other systems require the system to "read" an iginition source from the vehicle's ignition system. This one takes a prilimary voltage setting "base line". It then initiates the starting sequence, once it reads that there is a higher voltage available when compared to the baseline it shuts down the starting operation. Ultimately, this is reading the battery voltage. When the vehicle "starts" and the alternator is producing charging voltage the system understands that the vehicle MUST be running because of the higher voltage available, and shuts down. AWESOME! My truck, being older sometimes dies after it has started. Combine that to -40* temps we have experienced this week (prior to me writing the review!!) When the remote starter sensed that the voltage dropped back down to the baseline voltage, even AFTER having started (a failed start ultimately), the starting system re-started the truck. The ONLY problem I've experienced was due to my install and the options I then chose. For instance, my truck will sometimes start but not have a high enough RPM to "excite" the alternator to start putting out voltage. I've had the truck experience a "hung starter". I let the truck run its course just to see what would happen, basically so I would know in the future what to expect and to know if I could depend/trust this device to meet my needs in Alaska. Well in the instance of the hung starter the attemt was continued for about 3 seconds and then shutoff. At that point the truck shutoff and the system reset. My truck then started on the second attempt by the device. THis is by NO MEANS a fault of the starting system, just an issue with my truck. The wiring harness did come with an option to connect to the negitive side of the distributor (helps the system to know that the vehicle is running). I had opted not to use this wire. While I had considered re-installing the wire into the wire harness, I decided that my current configuration is probably better suited for my needs. My reasoning for this is if my truck doesn't have the alternator charging and the system continued to run ultimately the battery would be getting discharged. The winters up here are hard enough on our battery and starting systems, so I'll deal with the slight grinding an a very rare ocassion (I've only seen it happen once) and know that when it is running that the battery is also getting charged.
On installing:
By memory, I only used the two 12v input (constant 12v connections) off the power source going to the key
One wire back into the "key on" wire in the vehicle
one wire into the "ignition" wire on the vehicle (initially the truck woudl crank but not run until I found this wire)
One wire grounded*
Neutral safety/automatic safety switch (was actually connected to the same "grounded" location" as the ground wire
Bypassed my "clutch" safety switch. I cut these wires and soldered and taped them. The vehicle always now thinks the clutch is pressed in.
One wire to the 12v positive side of the blower motor system (Environmental control system)
One wire to the 12v positive side of the brake light switch (safety to shut the system down)
One wire to the 12v NEGITIVE side of the light relay out of the steering column. **NOTE! You may need a relay if your system isn't 12v NEG!!!
Small push-button switch This actually doesn't seem to do anything, that is unless I failed to connect it to the control box. I may check on this later, but it is supposed to keep the vehicle running when pushed the vehicle is running. It didn't seem to work on mine. But as stated, it could be my fault. It is also used for "programming" and making changes to the options.
NOTE!!
There are two wires I "should" have used, but didn't for my existing setup. My vehicle horn doesn't work, so I didn't connect the horn wire and the "hood pin switch". I opted not to install that, but did install the supplied "warning" sticker. This is my vehicle and I'm well aware that there is a remote start on it.
"Installer notes" (if you will).
This is defaulted to running for 12 minutes. Not nearly long enough for the -40 and colder temps here in Alaska. The push button switch I mentioned above is supposed to be an option to changing the programming. My horn not working is part of my problem for changing the programming as you are required to react to horn beeps.
There is a supplied "toggle switch" which I believe to be an "off switch". There were not provided instructions on to where to put this. I believe it would be an interrupt switch to the negitive side of the control system, but opted just not to install it. I may have overlooked this in the instructions, but just stating it like they do the other break out of the wires coming out of the harnesses.
For all the additional wires I didn't need I just "yanked" them out of the harness while it wasn't attached to the control box. This eliminates the "rats nest" of additional wires under the dash.
Take some time!!! Pull out the instruction book and read through what wires will be required for your install. I don't intend for this to sound harsh, but if you can't figure out what you will need, take your vehicle in and have this professionally installed.
I'm pretty good at vehicle wiring and have installed car radios in past when I was younger. I didn't have any issues with installing this, but ONLY did so because this vehicle is old enough and operates off of 12v and 12v only. There are no different voltages on different systems for different readings. There is no way I would have tried this on my 09 GMC Sierra or the wife's 08 Mazda CX9. I previously had a Pontiac Grand Am and the aftermarket installed remote start later had a problem and activated the factory alarm. At that point the vehicle had to be towed to the dealer to identify the problem, back to the installer and have the system removed, and back to the dealer once again to have the security system reset. At that point it was driven back to the installer and a new system was installed.
The instructions CLEARLY state you MUST have a multi-meter, not a test light. I highly, highly recommend you do as suggested. The wiring diagram I had for my vehicle (Chilton/Hayes type manual) was absolutely WRONG with the wire codes and colors. I probably would have blown a fuse while trying to determine what wires I needed since the vehicle manual was wrong.
BITWRITER Programmer. Many times the manual describes going to a factory installer and having them program your unit to better meet your needs. I haven't done so and I've done a quick search. I've found numerous bitwriters (different ones) for under a hundred dollars. I'm positive that a factory installer will charge about $100 to "program" this. Just buy it yourself and you now can make the changes you need at your desire. (just a suggestion ;) )
In closing:
This device is awesome for my needs. Most all the "remote starting systems" out there are vehicle alarms with a remote starter option added on. This adds a bunch of wires and other problems that we as vehicle owners don't want to deal with. By eliminating the unneeded items, we have a simple and flawless system for starting our vehicles. I highly recommend this unit and firmly believe that it does its job and does it well. I currently can't say for the range of the remote, but I've tried it well inside of military buildings (all brick and metal construction" and when the unit won't start the vehicle it makes a loud noise to let you know that the starting attempt was a "no-go". (Oh, and the LED illuminates either orange or red... I don't remember).
The install is pretty simple, I recommend soldering the connections as recommended, scotch locks were not recommended in the instructions, but I have seen EVERY alarm and remote start installed with these. Use at your own risk.
Take your time and plan it out. Get a factory manual, it may be of help. I believe has an option to download free wiring diagrams (years ago) and they may still be available. Check that source prior to purchase if you're trying to look at ways to trim your total cost.
The remote is pretty small, but still doesn't look or feel flimsy. The key chain hole isn't large enough to add a non-supplied key chain to it, you would have to add it to the provided small key ring.
There is a location for an external LED (I believe), but also a LED on the side of the control box for aid in programming and status. But this is usually hidden under the dash somewhere...
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Installed this unit in a 2006 Wrangler I live in MN and winter conditions are severe. This is a nice unit to just warm up the vehicle while it sits in the drive way covered with snow or ice. Range is great especially outdoors with no walls (300 yards or more). It's hard to rate or trust what they say about going through walls as every sitturation is uniques.
Yes this unit can be installed in 2 hours or less take your time and it will turn our to be a successfull install. My install is simply to start the Jeep and run the HVAC system I dont need it to turn on any dome lights, or roll up any windows. I dont have any security system to bypass or engage.
With 1 short click 2 way remote will sound a successfull tone indicating the vehicle recieved the start signal. The vehicle starts after about 2 4 seconds. The HVAC will run as last set when you exited the vehicle. The driving lights stay on during the designated run time. When you get into the car, insert key and turn to run postition step on brake and the system is transfered back to normal run control.
The system prohibits any effort to steal the vehicle. If the brake pedal is depressed with out the key in the run position, the vehicle shuts down. Thats the extent of my install. Other safety's can be set up (and included) to further protect your vehicle. (hood switch)
Tools that I used for this successfull install that were not included -
Wire diagram for my Jeep that I found on line (google) that identified all of the correct color wires that I need.
Inexpensive DC test light from auto store (
These mats were advertized as able to fit both the Dodge Durango and Jeep Grand Cherokee. I thought this was a bit odd since my impression is that the Durango is somewhat "wider" than the Jeep Grand Cherokee. As a result, before I ordered these mats, I called the manufacture to confirm that the mats would fit the Jeep Cherokee. I was assured that they would so I went ahead and ordered them. They arrived in a week. The front mats fit my Jeep Grand Cherokee like a glove. However the back mats are too large. I guess I could cut them down to size to make them fit but that defeats the purpose of ordering so called "custom fit" mats. I plan to call the manufacturer back and complain.
