AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 MHz 6 Channel and Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button L

• Alarm With Remote Car Starter
• 915 MHz 6 Channel And Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button LCD Transmitter
• Five Button XT-915LCD 915MHz Two-Way LCD Transmitter
• XT-915s 915MHz Extended Range Remote Transmitter
• Spread Spectrum Encoder

I ordered this AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 from DiscountsJungle in late 2010. It was installed by a local installer in St. Louis. Fine installation. Strange remote. The remote resets its time every time it is turned back on (it turns itself off to save power). The remote supposedly can be programmed to stay on I have not been able to make that work. On the other hand the remote is very power hungry and if on all the time needs recharging often. Once off, the remote must be slapped against something (hand/leg) to activate a motion sensor and the lock button must be pressed to turn back on. This is not documented in the owners manual. When the remote is turned off you will not be notified if the alarm goes off. So much for a 2-way remote. I wish I had my Audiovox alarm back.

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like the system works great. but my remote restarted all the time. so i bought a new remote and the same thing happened and the new remote quit working all together.

Read Best Reviews of AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 MHz 6 Channel and Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button L Here

Good product that works well. Protects my car and starts it everytime I have used it. It is powerful enough where I can start my car in my bedroom and it will turn on in the driveway, but I am not sure that there is a 1 mile range as when I am further away from my car it is not in range to start. The LCD screen is convenient and lets me know that my car is started but the instructions to check the temp and set timer, etc are a little tough and you have to cycle through buttons alot. I had to get this device professionally installed which made it a bit more expensive, but overall it was still a lot cheaper than buying a device off of a chain store and having them install it. I would probably buy this product again if I needed something similar, but would more likely lean towards the starters that work from smart-hones and ipods.

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well i can't honestly tell you how the product is, considering the remote wasnt working when i recieved it from phimart. if your thinking of purchasing this alarm then thats good but if its being purchased thru phimart..please think about it, very bad company, customer service is non existent, once they have your money your relationship is over with them. they dont answer phone calls or anything. so again..be careful who you deal with!!

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This is a comparison review of the DEI Viper 5704V, the AutoPage CS3-RS915 LCD, and the CodeAlarm ca6551sst. I also have a DEI Viper 5901aka 5702V (the previous version of the 5704), and an AutoPage RS855 LCD.

---Background---

I have always done and prefer to do all my own installs. Not only is it something that I have the skills for and I enjoy doing, but I don't like other people disrespecting my property. Nobody respects anything that's not theirs, and I like to ensure everything is done to perfection without ruining anything. If you are technical and have patience, these systems are not difficult to install by any means. It's just a matter of knowing a little bit about electricity (12 Volts DC), locating the wires in your car that you need to tap onto, knowing how to carefully remove the panels in your car without breaking anything, and using the proper test tools, connectors, and wire wrap to make a very clean install without even cutting wires or drilling holes.

---Preface---

After purchasing a third car, needing to upgrade the systems in my current two cars, and researching the current selection of alarms, I decided to try each of the Directed Electronics Viper 5704, the Audiovox CodeAlarm ca6551sst, and the AutoPage CS3-RS915-LCD. They are all in the same class of 2-way paging alarms with remote start, and use spread spectrum technology to communicate between the main unit and the key fob. For those of you that don't know, this technology has been around for a while, and simply means that the communications can occur on multiple frequencies. This is good in case there is interference on one frequency, the transmissions can potentially get through to the receiver on another frequency.

Besides having long range 2-way and spread spectrum technology, the other things that are important to me when selecting a security system:

*Rechargeable remote I hated having to keep a stash of AAA batteries around for my previous security systems.

*Good manufacturer reputation I've had good luck with my AutoPage system, and I know that Audiovox has been around for a while. I gave DEI a shot again just based on their name. I have used a lot of their accessories in the past (shock sensors, motion sensor, power door lock actuators, etc.) and have had good luck. DEI is the largest car security system manufacturer out there. DEI was founded by Darrell Issa, who is currently a congressman with a new worth of approximately $½ billion. One big problem I have with DEI is that they are very partner focused, and don't warranty their systems if they aren't installed by an authorized DEI dealer. This also means if you lose the (very un-detailed) install/wiring guide that the system comes with, you're not going to just be able to download it from their web site. So, make sure you take photos of it/make copies before you lose or destroy it. AutoPage and Audiovox both make their install guides available for download on their web sites, and I suggest you review those as well as the user's manual entirely before deciding on a system to purchase since they will give you a lot of information as to the functionality.

*Lots of customization options one important thing for me is to be able to disable the arm and disarm chirps. Since the remotes for 2-way security systems such as these beep/vibrate to confirm that you've successfully armed/disarmed the systems, why would you want your car's siren or horn to chirp as well, unless you're trying to show off? I like to be stealth! The arm/disarm confirmation chirps can be enabled and disabled through the customization programming that's described in the install manual of all of these alarms.

*Two car functionality All these systems support 2 cars, with varying difficulty of switching the remote from one car to the other.

*Vibrating remote Being in a noisy place can easily drown out the high pitched sounds that the key fob makes when your alarm goes off.

---The Reviews---

I installed the DEI Viper 5901 in my older car several years ago. I purchased the 5901 and a competitive AutoPage alarm that came with a color OLED display at the same time. I decided to send the AutoPage alarm back and keep the 5901 in that car due to it having better range when comparing side by side, and the AutoPage's fob's color OLED display being impossible to see in sunlight. Had I have known the problems I was going to run into with DEI's junk 5901, I would have returned them both and purchased the AutoPage system with the non-color LCD display and with the spread spectrum technology. (Spread spectrum allows for communicating over multiple frequencies to get around interference.)

Going back to my DEI Viper 5901, it has a major flaw where once every 2-3 months it will take 100's of tries of hitting the unlock button to disarm the system and unlock the car. I usually will end up having to use my key to get into my car, setting off the alarm along with making everyone around look and/or waking up all the neighbors, and quickly reaching under the dash and pulling the system's wire to the horn/power (whichever I could get to first). Pulling the power and resetting the system will fix the problem temporarily. The Viper 5901 would also frequently have a long delay before actually arming/locking and disarming/unlocking after hitting a button on the fob. Furthermore, sometimes pushing the buttons on the fob would have no effect at all, not even a confirmation beep like the fob would normally emit when pushing a button. I've read some other reviewers complain about this as well. I also have a couple other gripes with it, one being that the car finder will simply lay on the horn solid for several seconds, rather than a series of short beeps (like the CodeAlarm and the AutoPage systems will do). The way the 5901 and now the new 5704 just slams the horn solid for several seconds is a great way of getting people near your car pissed off and getting everyone to stare at you looking for your car. Maybe if you're the type to always pay attention to where you park or live in a small village somewhere and don't ever travel to a shopping mall this won't be a problem for you. Like many people out there though I have a very busy lifestyle with a lot of ADD and distractions, so I need to have a good functioning car finder! Second, even though you would have the system set to not chirp when arming/disarming, if the battery in the fob was low, it would chirp the horn for a long duration after about a 5-10 seconds from disarming the system. This was very frustrating at night when trying to wake everyone up, including the neighbors. The fob beeps when the battery is low anyhow, so why does it need to chirp your horn in addition? Also, if by design you're going to make the system chirp the horn when the battery in your fob is low, why have it chirp when you're going to the car???? It should chirp when you're leaving your car because that's when you're most likely going to go inside somewhere that you can charge it! There's also no option to disable this. Lastly, they decided it would be smart to integrate the shock sensor into the unit on the 5901. Ridiculous! This all just goes to show how little common sense the engineers who designed this thing have.

I called DEI to mention these problems, and some cocky kid answered the phone that had no interest in my comments. They did verify that the car finder and fob battery low chirp issues I mentioned above had not been corrected, and I verified this after receiving the new Viper 5704V and testing it.

After receiving each system, I first hooked them up on the bench to test. The first test was the power draw when armed and not alarming. This is important if you're going to let your car sit armed for an extended duration, like at an airport parking lot. The Viper and the CodeAlarm each drew ~40ma when armed, and the AutoPage ~24ma. Next was the range test. With the antennas all near each other, the range was almost identical when walking around my city neighborhood. Of course, it was no where near a mile that all the manufacturers claimed more like 1200 feet down to the end of my street. Sometimes the CodeAlarm would work where the Viper wouldn't, and vice versa. I'm sure the FCC has a transmit power limit that the manufacturers must abide by. Expect around 1000-1500 feet at the most. If you really want to get notified, you can always get a prepaid SIM card and a 12v GSM alarm from eBay so you can get a text message on your cell phone. I will tell you I can park my car half way out in the parking lot of a typical WalMart or grocery store, and be able to communicate with my car half way into the store. Range is very dependant on obstructions.

One thing to note is that these systems are not capable of full duplex communications between the system and the fob, meaning that if the system is transmitting to the fob, the system will not receive any button pushes on your fob. This is relevant in a couple scenarios. First, if your car is alarming, expect it to take up to 15 seconds of you standing there pushing the button on your fob for your system to stop alarming. This is because your system will be transmitting to alert your remote that there it is in alarm. The manufactures may have designed in periodic brief pauses in the transmission to allow for a signal from the remote to get through, and if you're lucky to press the button at just the right time, you might get your system to stop alarming sooner. In my tests, I was able to stop the AutoPage from alarming the soonest. This also applies to remote start. After your system starts your car, it will be transmitting to confirm that your car has started. You'll have to wait up to 15 seconds to be able to disarm your alarm and unlock your doors after using remote start. If I'm in a safe area, I'll usually disarm the system before activating remote start.

Another thing to note with the fob communications is that for all of these systems it may take up to 10 seconds or so for your fob to be notified of your security system going off. The fobs from all manufacturers work similar to cell phones to conserve the battery life they only turn the receiver on every so many seconds. So, if your security system happens to be triggered right after your fob went out of listening mode, you may have lost valuable time to nab the perpetrator who broke into or crashed into your car. From my tests, the AutoPage had the slowest frequency of checks and took the longest to be notified of an alarm condition.

Each system has a "warn away" function that relies on the dual stage shock sensor they come with. When a lighter touch on your vehicle is detected, the siren/horn chirps quickly. I find that the "warn away" is pretty much useless, and is frequently set off by loud motorcycles driving by. The warn-away feature is complicated by the fact that the shock sensors that these systems come with only have a single adjustment, rather than a separate adjustment for each stage. So, you can't customize your sensitivity for full alarm vs. warn away and you may end up with lots of warn away pages/beeps if you like your shock sensor sensitive. You might be better off either not using the warn-away, or purchasing a separate shock sensor (they are cheap) just for the warn away function to be adjustable. In my case I installed a front and rear shock sensor in my daily driver for better coverage of my car. In my car that I installed the AutoPage system in, I had to rig the warn-away wire over to the full alarm input to get better sensitivity. I also had to use a DEI504D shock sensor with the AutoPage system due to the bug mentioned below and the fact that it has better sensitivity than the AutoPage OEM shock sensor.

--Pros and Cons of the Systems--

First, I'm very jaded against DEI with the bad experience I had with my 5901. Furthermore, the issues I had with the battery low warning chirping your horn/siren when you go to your car, and the car finder have been carried over to the 5704V. The other disaster with the 5901 was that the shock sensor was integrated into the 5901, which limited your installation locations. Thankfully, due to enough complaints, DEI did not carry this dumb idea over to the 5704. The only thing that was nice about having the integrated shock sensor was that you could adjust the sensitivity from your remote, vs. having to potentially pull apart interior panels to adjust your shock sensor. If these companies could come up with a standard to be able to adjust the shock sensor sensitivity from the system itself rather than the shock sensor, that would be great!

The DEI 5704 has the most fine tuning options of any of the systems, as well as programmable output wires. The vast majority of people will not need to make use of these, and furthermore, you need to purchase a DEI Bitwriter to program many of those options. They could have just put a USB or serial port on the main system, but DEI wants to sell you an additional piece of hardware. Some of the Bitwriter options include remote start run time by the minute, smart start temperature, and siren duration by the seconds. You can also customize the key fob icon for each of the Aux outputs to Trunk, Window, and Sunroof with a Bitwriter. For me, I would rather not have the above problems, not have to buy a Bitwriter, and slightly less customization capabilities.

In regards to the key fobs, the fob for the 5704 is the same as the one used with my older 5901. One complaint I had with that was that the rubber cover over the USB charging port only lasted a few months before disintegrating. Of all three of the fobs, none have an extremely noticeable vibration capability. During an alarm, the CodeAlarm and the Viper had the most noticeable vibrator, with the AutoPage being slightly less. I can tell you from the Viper that I've had mixed results with the vibrator alerting me. The problem is that none of the fobs actually vibrate and sound at the same time. Rather they sound, then vibrate briefly, then sound again. The piezzo buzzer on the AutoPage fob, however, is at least twice as loud as the one on both the Viper and the CodeAlarm. In fact, I find myself having to use the AutoPage's fob while it's in my pocket sine it's so piercingly loud.

The Viper 5704 and the AutoPage CS3-RS915LCD both have mini USB connectors on the key fobs. The CodeAlarm has the more modern style, micro USB charging connector. If you're an iPhone user, you're going to have to have multiple chargers in either scenario. If you're an Android user, you'll be happy with the CodeAlarm's fob since it's nice to have one universal charger that will work for your phone and your key fob, not to mention there will certainly be lots of your friends and coworkers that will have a micro-USB charger lying around if needed. The fobs that come with the AutoPage and the CodeAlarm both have painted fronts, and expect them to wear quickly. The plating on the CodeAlarm and AutoPage's fobs have both disintegrated pretty well over several months. I wish they would just leave the paint off and leave them rubberized black plastic. The silver paint on my Viper fob is half gone exposing an ugly greenish plastic underneath. Finally, I found with all the fobs, that it's very easy to accidentally hit one of the super large lock/unlock buttons when they're moving around in your pocket. One thing with the AutoPage, if you hit the lock button while the system is already armed, it triggers the car finder and will beep your horn annoying. With the CodeAlarm, you have to hit a side button to trigger the car finder, which is difficult to do by accident. If you manage to hold down the unlock button, that ends up being a trunk release, if you have that functionality in your vehicle.

The fob for the AutoPage is almost identical to the CodeAlarm (they both must be using the same manufacturer for the remotes), but the navigation is completely different. Getting to 2-car mode with the CodeAlarm is much easier just press the F button, then lock and unlock together. With the AutoPage, you have to go through the menu, which can be tricky (though it's at least a menu vs. having to memorize some random key sequences). For the Viper, you have to hold down the F button as well to change to car 2. I like how you can also customize the color on the Viper's and the AutoPage's fob's backlights. As far as battery life goes, you should get at the very minimum around 5 weeks or more per charge on any of the fobs depending on usage.

From experience with the key fobs, the plastic LCD display covers get scratched and blurred very quickly from being in your pocket, bag, etc with other keys and items. At the same time you get one of these systems, get some good quality screen protectors with STRONG adhesive so they don't peel up. When you get the systems, they come with a cheap plastic sticky protector on the fob's display. Peel that off and keep it to use as a template to cut screen protectors. Put it on top of a screen protector, and trace around it with a fine tip marker (I use the fine tip Sharpies). Cut out inside the line you drew. It's not going to be perfect, but it's better than eventually having a blurry and scratched display. Oh, and make sure you clean the grease, etc. off your fob's display with rubbing alcohol before applying the screen protector.

For the remote start functionality, they all behave pretty similarly, though I've only tested the CodeAlarm in practice. The only two difference I see are that first, you have more one more option with the AutoPage to avoid accidental starts. With all of them, you can at the very least set them so you need to hit the start button twice within a few seconds. Second, with both the AutoPage and Viper, you can have temperature controlled starts, with the AutoPage able to be set at 0 degrees F, and 15 degrees F, and Viper only 0 degrees, but the Viper customizable to 10 degree F increments if you also have a Bitwriter. The Viper can also start your car at a high temperature for cooling, where the AutoPage only has a low temperature. The viper might be helpful for you if you happened to need to leave a pet in the car in a hot climate. For me, I would never use temperature controller start, and I would carefully consider whether or not you would use it before making a decision based on this.

So far, I've had no major issues with the remote start functionality of the ca6551sst. I tested it in combination with an iDatalink transponder bypass, as well as a DEI PKALL, but it took many, many tries to get the PKALL programmed, so I didn't trust it. With both bypasses I had to increase the crank time since they're slow to send the code, but the ca6551sst let me easily adjust that. And that leads me to one more difference in the remote start the Viper and the AutoPage have several more options for crank time than the CodeAlarm, but again that hasn't posed an issue for me with the CodeAlarm.

As far as the alarm functionality goes, the CodeAlarm has an enormous win over the Viper and AutoPage, and that is that if you use the horn for your alarm, when your alarm is triggered it will optionally (by default) hold on your horn with random brief pauses! This definitely is an attention getter wow! Personally, I don't hook up the included sirens, I only use the horn since I don't like to drill a hole through the car's firewall to run a wire for the siren. Sometimes you can find an unused wire in your car to use for the siren, or just be able to slip a wire through an existing hole through the firewall.

As with my Viper, when disarming the CodeAlarm I've found that once or twice a week it will take 1-2 button pushes to disarm the security system, where each time I'm standing within a few feet of the vehicle. Fortunately it hasn't been the 100's of times it would take with the Viper.

One other issue I have with the CodeAlarm is that there is a "ground while armed" wire on the CodeAlarm that I use for a secondary warning LED that I mounted on the dash of my vehicle. Unfortunately, it's also on during remote start even when the system is disarmed. Because of this, it stays on until I put my key in the ignition, turn it to on, and press the brake to release the system's control over the starter. This means I'm going to have to get a relay that will cut off ground to the LED during remote start. The Viper on the other hand has 4 programmable outputs that you can set either to validity, link to arm, link to disarm, link to arm/disarm, or remote start only. They're all controllable from the fob. It's nice that they have these built in, but you'll need a Bitwriter to program and fob icon and the latch time away from the default of 30 seconds if you're planning on using them for window rollup and/or sunroof closure. The AutoPage has 3 programmable outputs, and you can program the timer from 1 second to 2 minutes without any sort of add-on. For the CodeAlarm you'll need an external timer relay.

The AutoPage is the only one of the three that doesn't have warning LEDs on the antenna, and comes with an external LED. This is important to me since the antenna can draw attention to the antenna's location. If someone is smart enough, they could break into your car and if they rip off the antenna quick enough, you would never get a page. On the other hand though, not having LEDs integrated into the antenna could be a drawback for the install since then you have to find a place to mount your LED, and potentially have to drill a hole somewhere. For me, I purchased a small black plastic project box, drill a hole in it, mounted the LED in, and mounted the box in the car using double sided 3m sticky mounting squares found at Walmart.

One other note is that the CodeAlarm has no car temperature check functionality, whereas both the Viper and CodeAlarm do. Also, as alluded to above, both the AutoPage and the Viper have extra programmable outputs if you want them to close your windows, sunroof, etc. The CodeAlarm only has one programmable output, though on the Viper and AutoPage, those outputs have various limited functionality. I suggest downloading the manuals for more info.

In regards to support, I did contact DEI three times twice by phone, and once by email. I definitely have to give them credit as they answered me each time in a timely fashion by phone and email. I tried calling AutoPage, and was not able to get through on their consumer phone support number. I also tried emailing AutoPage, and I never received a reply. I did not try contacting CodeAlarm's support.

In summary, I think any of these can be winners depending on your requirements, likes, and dislikes. The AutoPage has everything the CodeAlarm has and then some, except for the random horn honk feature when alarming. The big thing that I really like about the CodeAlarm is definitely the random horn honks that would really get people's attention in a parking lot full of cars where most people have learned to tune out car alarm honking. However, the AutoPage does have a slightly better fob with a more powerful vibrator and much louder sound which is really important to me. I also like how the AutoPage will let you change the fob's background color whereas the CodeAlarm will not, not that this should be a deciding factor. I would only go with the Viper if for some reason I didn't mind purchasing a Bitwriter, needed an extreme customization option, or the high temp auto start capability. Personally, my favorite is the CodeAlarm.

Lastly, it should be mentioned that all three have the ability to link to optional cellular based add-ons that you pay subscription fees for so you can get alarm notifications, start your car, unlock your doors, etc. from a smart phone. AutoPage calls their's C3. DEI/Viper calls theirs SmartStart (not good reviews here on Amazon), and CodeAlarm (Audiovox) calls their add-on 220Carlink. The DEI/Viper and the AutoPage both have GPS tracking available. The subscription fees vary, so do some homework.

---Major Bug with AutoPage System Received---

Finally, I must mention that the AutoPage systems apparently have a manufacturing bug at this time. I purchased two from different resellers, and they both had this bug. The majority of the time, triggering the warn-away stage on the shock sensor will subsequently trip the 2nd stage/full alarm for the majority of the time. Other times it behaves normally for a while until the unit is power cycled. Or, if the unit is power cycle, it will start misbehaving again. Sometimes when the 1st stage is tripped, the LED's for both stages go into a frenzy for a minute or so, though the alarm never gets triggered. When I remove the blue wire from the shock sensor harness (the 2nd stage trigger), the 2nd stage doesn't get triggered. When I have the system set in shock sensor test mode, it behaves fine. It also works fine when paired with a DEI 504d shock sensor. So, the problem appears to be a combination of the main unit and the shock sensor. This problem could go unnoticed since unless you are paying close attention, the only symptom one would see, depending on how and what you were doing you set your shock sensor's sensitivity, is that occasionally it will either take much less of a hit to set the system off (if you set the shock sensor sensitivity when it was behaving normal), or it will take a much harder hit to set the system off (if you set the shock sensor when it was acting up). Personally, I hate the warn away feature since it's an annoyance, and I always pull the warn away wire out of the shock sensor's harness (the green wire in this case), so it's not a big deal. It's still a bug though that makes me doubt AutoPage's quality control.

If anyone else out there reads this review that has one of these system, please test your shock sensor out over a few days time and leave a comment here letting us know if you're experiencing the same issue. You will see this issue as it will be impossible to just trigger the warn-away feature of the shock sensor. With a light hit, the green LED will light first, followed by another blink of the green LED, then the red LED.

Master Lock 263DAT Titanium High Security Steering Wheel Lock

When I initially started looking at steering wheel locks, I saw this one and thought, what a great deal and great price. It's like the original Club, but on steriods ! :D I was reluctant at first after hearing on the net claiming this could be picked by an ordinary pen! I contacted Masterlock after purchasing and they emailed me to assure that it cannot be picked with a pen. Perhaps it was with a previous model because this lock isn't a tumbler Kryptonite-style type. So when I received it, sure enough, it comes with a regular padlock-style lock and keys. It does need to be positioned correctly, though as the previous reviewer said, but I think it's an excellent steering wheel lock. And the red flashing led is a bonus, especially at night.

I got this steering wheel lock for my 2000 Honda Civic Si. My car got broken into and I found this bar laying on the back seat. Found the bar was bent in the middle. It's an awesome deterrent but the car thieves managed to get off without a problem. If they want your car bad enough they will find a way. Good thing I have an alarm with starter kill and a clutch pedal lock.

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Let's be honest, if someone really wants to steal your car, and if they have the motivation, they're going to do it. But that doesn't mean you should make it easy for them. The Masterlock Steering Wheel Lock gives theives a hard time. Its double hooks make cutting the steering wheel and slipping it off more difficult. Prying or otherwise tampering with the bar could easily set off the horn, giving the theif unwanted attention. My only compaint is that the bar is difficult to install on my Taurus, as I have to set the wheel in a certain position in order to get a snug fit. Other than that, it provides a good means to keep the joyriders away from my car. Use this or something like it (pedal lock, tire lock, gearshift lock) along with some common sense (don't leave your car unlocked, don't leave your valuables on display) and your car should be fine.

Read Best Reviews of Master Lock 263DAT Titanium High Security Steering Wheel Lock Here

Alright, I've read most of the reviews others have had regarding this lock and whether you love it or hate it really depends on your steering wheel. The four claws fit alright on the steering wheel of my Acura but it could be better. Nonetheless, this product is fantastic and I love the peace of mind it gives me. It is a little bit thinner than the original Club, but it is made from titanium so attempting to cut it with a hacksaw will be quite a difficult job. The flashing LED on the end is an added plus, giving off the illusion of a car alarm LED at night (if you don't have an alarm, that is). I've had this for a little over a month and use it religiously; if you're as paranoid as me, you should too. :D

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I bought this because you can't beat it for the price (I paid ~27.50 after Shipping), and my car was stolen (but then recovered) prior to this purchase, which of course made me realize I needed to start being concerned about security and anti-theft measures.

PROS:

Price. It's cheap and generally speaking does its job.

The blinking LED is a super cool idea (provided it actually works -see CONS below)

It's relatively quick and easy to put on your wheel. Depends on the type of wheel, but anywhere from a couple seconds to about 20 seconds is all you'll need.

On my car, it still fit even though I had one of those leather wheel cover things.

It's light and not huge, meaning moving it around is easy.

(Although that could also mean it's weak and made with inferior materials. Not sure.)

CONS:

As others have said, the flashing LED goes out quickly. In my case, it died after ONE DAY, which really sucks because I think the blinking light is a fantastic idea and something that all clubs should have. Made me sad :(

The black plastic portion at the end that houses the flashing LED can literally be pulled off with your hands. On mine it actually fell off. I imagine this isn't helpful for you when a thief is working on breaking the club to get access to your car.

I am driving an older car (1987 Nissan Sentra 2-door hatchback) that for whatever reason has a thinner-than-normal steering wheel grip. This means that the club can slide around an inch or two once attached on the wheel. Not a big deal if you're just using it as a deterrent, but I think it's reasonable to assume that against actual attacks, this would make it a lot easier to break and/or remove.

The piece of metal that "comes out" when you attach this to your steering wheel, is about a third to half an inch thick. *It's also hollow*.

(A commenter pointed out, though, that if it's indeed titanium as claimed, it probably doesn't need to be super thick. I don't know if hollowed titanium or steel would be better, but they have a good point)

BOTTOM LINE:

Flaws considered, for the price it's a pretty good deterrent to a thief, who will very likely skip on to another car that's not clubbed, unless your car has particular appeal like being a luxury car or a classic. But if it's worth so much, wouldn't you be spending more to get a nice club?

It's definitely got room for improvement but the piece-of-mind to cost ratio is very good.

If they fixed the issues with the blinking LED being of such poor quality, I'd probably buy the product again.

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Husky Liners Classic Style Custom Fit Molded Front Floor Liner for Select Ford/Mazda Models (Black)

not that you have to trim it to fit. I plan on returning this as soon as I get a break in the holiday traffic.

I recently purchased these for my son's new truck. My husband and I have a set in our truck and love them. You can just pull them out and rinse them off when they get dirty. They have a lip around the edge to keep any pebbles or melting snow from going under the seats, etc. They are also cheaper here than elsewhere.

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Optima 8042-218-FFP YellowTop Group 75/25 Deep Cycle Battery

At first I was a little leery to order a car / truck battery from on line, but my local auto parts wanted close to double what I found it on Amazon for. So I plunged in. The battery arrived sooner than I had thought it would, greatly packed, no problem with the battery, came charged and fit right in my truck. Truck cranked right over. After a month battery still has had no issues and still looks new.

I purchased this battery for my Silverado 4x4 truck. I have a large Alpine stereo system with two amps and two 12" subs under the back seat. The truck also uses electric fans for cooling. My old battery would go dead every couple of weeks under this current drain. With this new Optima Yellow top battery, everything works great. My problems are solved.

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There may have been packaging problems in the past, but not now. Battery came in heavy cardboard with all corners protected. It arrived a day early. The size was exact, all brackets & cables fit. A lifting handle works fine and stays on the battery. A plastic elevating platform, about an inch thick, was included but not needed for my Corvette. Battery was fully charged, car started right up. I have another yellow-top in an old Blazer, that Optima has worked without incident for the last two years. Very pleased.

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This is replacing the same battery on my car a 2002 Subaru WRX.

PROS:

Strong battery

AGM technology > No liquid and non-spillable

Reliable power > Won't die immediately and leave you stranded on the side of the road when it's weakening.

Side posts are helpful when you have a lot of electronics going on and need another connection.

High quality construction (save for the Amazon packaging and eventual shipping damages)

CONS:

The box in which it shipped was snug and contained virtually no protection. My battery had 3 chipped plastic corners. The battery was 100% functional however.

The CA (Cranking Amps) and CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) numbers dropped a bit since 4 years ago. Not sure if Optima is making a weaker battery or just more accurate specs. It is the same item number as my old battery and that had over 800 CA and 660 CCA. This one is showing 770 CA and 620 CCA. Weird.

CCA not as high as Optima Red Top line; can be an issue if you experience very cold winters.

Heavy (~37 lbs.)

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My battery arrived in a snug cardboard box with holes in the sides for handles. If I remember right the cardboard at the bottom extended a bit to protect it if it was dropped 3 or 4 inches straight down. After reading the reviews here, I put a sign on my door asking the delivery person to ring the bell and wait so I could examine the packaging. UPS delivered it. I don't know if they would have taken it back had I refused it because no signature was required. In any event, the packaging was fine, the battery was fine, and it works fine. This is not my first Optima. If it works as well as the last one, a different model, I will be happy.

However, I just noticed that even though this item is sold by and fulfilled by Amazon, there is a notation of no returns. I don't remember seeing this when I purchased it in January and the restriction does not appear on my invoice. This battery has a three year replacement warranty and I am wondering how that is going to work with Amazon not accepting returns. I always assumed that Amazon was an authorized dealer for items sold and fulfilled by Amazon. As soon as I find out where to make an inquiry in Amazon's maze of a help system I will report here what I find out.

New 1 Button A BLADE Remote Flip Key Shell For Mercedes-Benz ML320 C230 (NO PAINC,2 track) No Chips

I had an issue with the key blank being thicker then the OEM which required me getting the blank cut because my oem one would not fit in, they replayed back apologized and made it right. Thank you

Perfect match but its difficult finding someone who actually lazer cut this key so not such a great buy, then it broke

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My key was slightly too thick for the slot, but i filed it down which took about 30 minutes of my time. The key is a tad too long for the shell, but not much you can do about that. But it flips and works great. it also looks very nice flashing the Mercedes logo.

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Does not have a spot for the chip that actually allows the care to start. Does not fit original key unless filed down and then it still does not work. Just didn't work for my 1987 C230.

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I ordered this product expecting to be able to swap my key into it as well as the electronics. The first thing I found out was that it wouldn't swap in because the case has different tolerances, my key would fit one side of the case but the other side where the spring goes in was too big. You MUST spend the money to get their supplied blank cut to your key. In their listing of vehicles supported mine wasn't listed, a 1997 E320. This vehicle has a special chip in the key that must be present for the car to start. I had to cut out some plastic right next to the red lense to get the chip in. Once I put my electronics in, the button wouldn't hit the micro switch on the electronics for the remote to work. Frustrated completely, I took the spring and the button to unlock the key out of this fob and stuck them in my old remote. Then I tossed the rest in the garbage.

Husky Liners Custom Fit Second Seat Floor Liner for Select Jeep Liberty KJ Models (Black)

These liners are fantastic. The fit is perfect for my '06 liberty. I live in the North East so our winters can get pretty hairy but these stand up to the mud, snow, rain, and dirt with ease. I would definitely recommend these mats to anyone looking for a durable mat to protect their floors.

This floor liner is a perfect fit on my 2003 Jeep Liberty Sport/Freedom. It's pricey compared to cheap, generic liners but this is a must have for any car owner. It is especially advisable for using during the winter season and rainy season because it catches all the dirt and wetness so that your floor carpets are kept clean and dry all the time. It is certainly worth the investment and I highly recommend it.

Fyi, I first went online to huskyliners.com and emailed the manufacturer to make sure this is a perfect fit for my car. They are very courteous and helpful, and they emailed me back within 24 hours. I suggest you do the same before making a purchase. Also, when installing these on your car, the liners actually have marks on them that tell you which one goes to the passenger side or the driver's side of the car. These are supposed to make a PERFECT fit on your vehicle so if you find that it doesn't do that then you either purchased the wrong kind or you installed it incorrectly. You need not worry though (if you purchased the wrong kind) because Amazon.com has an excellent, customer-friendly returns policy.

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I bought the front and rear floor liners for my 2002 Jeep Liberty. First of all, the pattern is not diamond like in the picture, it's rectangles with rounded corners. The actual liner is not as thick or as "rubber like" as I would like. It's more like thin plastic. Maybe it's just my liners, but they don't fit on the floor perfectly. Overall, they do what they're supposed to, and I guess that's what counts.

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These floor liners fit perfect. They protect the whole floor. I couldn't ask for a better product.

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eForCity 12V DC TO 110V AC POWER ADAPTER INVERTER FOR CAR OUTLET

• Converting DC power outlet into an AC power outlet (with DC power) for some small electronic appliances.
• Just plug this inverter in to any 12 Volt DC power outlet, like those found in a car, RV or boat.
• An intelligent sensor checks with the output/input compatibility with your electronic device. When the LED lights up, that means the converter can power the device. If the LED light does not illuminate, disconnect the electronic device from the converter.
• Input: DC 12V / 500mA. Output: DC 100V-240V. Max Output Power: 5W
• NOTE: Not for large electronics like laptop computers, DVD players, printers, etc.

I received this item, pluged it into the car, and it didn't work. Not at all, nothing. Piece of junk.

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I bought this to act as a DC to AC converter that could run off of a 9 volt battery. Worked well enough that I'm buying a second one. It will work fine in a car also, you just have to remember that it's meant for low current. It would probably charge a cell phone, but nothing with a high draw such as a laptop.

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I was doing a science experiment with a student, and this was the exact electronic item that we needed. Thank goodness it was available on Amazon.

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while i wouldn't use this to power any electronic device, i did take it apart and use its ability to transform DC to AC and created an electro-static generator.

Did not work for what I need it for I was trying to use it for a outlet. Not what I was hoping for.

6v 4ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery (6v4ah , 6 Volt 4 Amp Hour , 6 V 4 Ah, 6volt 4 Amp Hour)

I used these batteries to change out dead ones at a customers location. I wont be able to say how good they are until a year or 2 goes by.

It is a basic battery that replaced an existing one. The size was the same as the old, and the replacing went smoothly. Exactly what I needed.

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After 18 months our childs ride on train would no longer charge well. As the charger was supplying voltage, I took the chance that the problem was the battery and decided to replace it . The battery dimensions, voltage rating, and current rating matched perfectly with the original battery and was one third the price of the replacement battery from the toy manufacturer. I unsoldered the old battery connector and used it with the new battery. After reading about charging of these very cheap lead acid batteries with their very cheap chargers, I decided to carefully monitor the obtained battery voltage. I found that although the original instructions said to charge the battery for 14 hours, 30 minutes seemed to give this battery a complete charge. So far the battery has worked well in the ride on train and my two year old grandson is having a ball.

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thought our lantern was a goner, then found this, had ordered new bulbs but didn't need them just new battery love that we can use lantern again delivery was quick would be nice if there was disposal info with product

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Battery was delivered quickly and was exactly as described. Arrived charged enough to operate the emrgency light combination radio/ etc., which was a good sign. Hope it lasts like the original.Thanks!

Black & Decker VEC026BD Electromate 400 Jump-Starter with Built-In Air Compressor

I just wanted to clear up some common misconceptions regarding these jump-start/inverter/inflator products. I personally own 3 different types from 400 watts to 1500 watts and have done tons of research on them. I guess you could call it an unusual hobby I have. I blame the manufacturers for over hyping these units or just choosing not to inform consumers of their limitations.

THESE UNITS ARE NOT AS POWERFUL AS YOU THINK! Most people seem to be very disappointed by the amount of "juice" these put out.

--FRESHLY CHARGED this item will probably run a small TV/DVD combo continuously for around 2.5 hours. That's it. Also, you can't run a coffee maker, hair drier, microwave, refrigerator or heavy duty power tool off this. It's just not designed for that kind of use. Buy this to run a small TV, fan or laptop for a few hours, or to charge your cell phone. That's all it's designed for.

--You probably won't be able to jump start an 8 cylinder engine with this especially if it's an older car or has a totally dead battery. These units are mostly for 4 and 6 cylinder engines. They just don't have large enough batteries in them to turn over a big V-8.

--The air compressor is little more than a toy. All of these units have tiny, noisy compressors in them that will take 20 to 30 minutes to inflate a single full size 16" tire that is totally flat. And you will completely kill the battery just doing one tire like that. Plus you may damage the compressor by running it that long continuously because they heat up so much during use. You're better off taking your tire to a gas station!

THE UNIT WILL SELF-DISCHARGE JUST BY SITTING IN YOUR CAR! It will lose about 10 20% of it's charge PER MONTH. The hotter it is outside the faster it will self-discharge. PLUS YOU WILL EVENTUALLY DESTROY THE INTERNAL BATTERY BY LEAVING IT IN A PROLONGED DISCHARGED STATE! You can easily kill this device permanently by a process known as sulfation, in as little as one year, if you don't keep it charged. (This is what happened to my first unit, a Xantrex Power-Plus 400. It cost me about 1/2 the original cost of the unit to replace the battery!)

To prevent this you need to either bring it in the house and recharge it about once a month (who's going to remember to do this?), or keep it plugged into the cigarette lighter at all times. Some people claim this can overcharge the battery, but I disagree. Your cars built-in voltage regulator should keep the unit topped off without doing any damage to it. Plus you know you always have a freshly 100% charged unit ready to go.

-You should immediately recharge it after each use. If you use it for a jumpstart or even to recharge your cellphone you should recharge the unit within a day or two. This practice will prevent harmful sulfation and prolong the life of the unit.

-These don't last forever. Just like your car battery eventually needs to be replaced so will the battery in this device. Expect about 100 full charge/discharge uses or 5 7 years, whichever comes first, before the battery in this will need to be replaced. Some of these jump-starters/inverters don't have user replaceable batteries so you may have to replace the whole unit anyway. You can usually find a reasonably priced replacement battery on e-Bay if you're handy enough to disassemble the unit and find out what size battery is inside. Based on the weight and size I would say the VEC026BD has a 20 Amp Hr battery inside it, but that is only a guess on my part and should be verified by disassembly.

For the money I'm not super-impressed with this unit. I just bought the Xantrex PowerPack 600 on sale from Amazon for $100 delivered. The 600 has a more powerful battery and can run larger appliances longer than the B&D. It usually goes for $130 but even at that price it's worth the premium over the B&D.

I hope this guide has been helpful to you to maximize the usefulness and life of your jump-start inverter, and to give you an idea of what to expect when you purchase one.

I just purchased the electromate 400 a few days ago ....I charged it overnight then tested it on a few things. Obviously it will jump start a car since it is basically built around a car battery.

It ran my large box fan just fine. Also worked great when I plugged lamps into it.

I tried using it to brew coffee using my Mr.Coffee but apparently the amps being drawn by the water heating and also heating the hotplate under the pot was too much for it and it would just shut down after a few seconds every time I tried it. Too bad ! I suspect if you have a newer coffee maker with the insulated pot and no heated hotplate you might do just fine.

One thing I could not find much info on before I purchased it was just how long will it power ordinary household items during a power outage ?

To test this...with the electromate fully charged, I plugged a 13" color tv with a built in DVD player into the electromate, put a DVD movie in...and checked the clock. It kept the TV powered and the movie playing for just a few minutes under 3 hours. Not bad. This is a well built unit...seems very sturdy...but is a bit heavy so don't plan on taking it backpacking. I'd recommend it highly to anyone looking for a way to keep some of the small conveniences going during a power outage.

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Bought this for jumping off my second vehicle which oftens goes several weeks without being driven and for powering small devices when camping. Worked fine for jumping off the vehicle; however, used the unit to power an electrically powered air mattress inflator and it did fine. Went to plug in the small fan and nothing. For whatever reason, the electrical outlets do not work now. Tried everything.

Follow up:

Just received my second unit. Charged it 24 hours. Plugged in regular size box fan and the unit's electrical outlet status light starts blinking green and shuts down after less than 2 minutes. Plugged in a small desk top fan and the same thing. Even plugged just my answering machine in and the same thing. Black and Decker must have issued a bad batch since most other reviews are positive.

Amazon has been truly amazing. They shipped the replacement model which I received three business days after filing for a return and even had UPS pick up the original one.

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Perhaps too heavy to carry in your car all the time, but I did take it on vacation, and sure enough, I left a dome light on long enough to kill my battery. This had plenty enough power to get my car started. The 120 volt was used to power a trouble light at home, on a rewiring project. It sure beat trying to work with a flashlight. I have not tried the inflator. I bought this with some camping use in mind, but haven't got to go camping yet.

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While this may not be the most powerful backup power unit and it is a bit heavy (but a cool and practical design) I have found so many uses for it and well worth the $100 I paid for it. I'm kind of a tool girl and buy stuff even though I don't think I will need it. I was so wrong with this one.

I purchased my original unit in AUG, 2007. I immediately took it on a dry camping trip just cuz it was a group trip and we all like to show off our stuff. I won! On that trip, I was able to air up my mattress and keep a florescent drop light on for one of the party nights then recharged it off of a friend's portable generators.

I do craft shows and like to take samples. I was able to run a large crock pot with this unit, keeping my chili warm for hours, turning it on and off through the period of time I expected to need it and the chili remained at a "food safe" temperature.

At a most inconvenient time, the battery in my 1999 5 Liter V8 Ford Explorer died and I used this unit it to jump my truck several times a day for 3-4 day without recharging.

I have used it to top off my tire when I had a slow leak and needed to hold over until I could get it fixed. (Pretty large tires)

Most recently when Hurricane Ike was coming in during the early AM hours, I knew my power was going down. I fulled charged the unit and plugged the wireless router and modem into it so I could watch the live broadcast of the storm coming on shore on the laptop. It held over until almost daylight and I felt like striking up the generator.

I do chili cook-offs and have one of those blowup nylon/poly decor things like folks put in their yards at Christmas, a little smaller though. I can plug that into the unit and it runs for hours and I have power if I need it for a blender or something else like that.

I run a large chile garden and take this with me when I work in it for the day. Instead of running the truck radio or long, long extension cords out to the field, I just plug my radio into the unit.

My home and garage were burglarized this year and my original unit was stolen. It was one of the first things I replaced because I just think it's a good thing to have around.

This is by far a very amateur and non-technical review but I do hope that it does let someone know that this is just one of those things you think you will never need and you will be surprised at all of the ways you could use it. Sure, it would be nice it it ran for a longer period of time and it did not weigh as much as it does (but the handle is very comfortable, even when lifting it up onto the under-hood to jump your battery) the Electromate has managed to make the list of Hurricane Preparedness down here.

BTW, I would have never gotten the one with the radio instead of the air compressor...just plug the radio into this while you air up the inner tubes for the river!

I hope my info helps!

Beth in Texas

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GTMax 4pcs - Purple Skin Rubber Soft Silicone Case + Clear LCD Screen Protector + Car Charger + Mic

purchase this for my husband, he loves it. He needed it because his phone's

battery does not keep a charge and when he is out on his jobs he can charge

it and not worry about dead battery.

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2007 2008 2009 Chevy Cobalt KEYLESS ENTRY REMOTE CLICKER FOB WITH REMOTE STARTER (MUST BE PROGRAMME

I bought this item because the unlock button from the remote I had didn't work, so the new one they sent me works to lock and unlock but the panic button does not! and i can't turn my car on using the remote becuase the upper button that is used for that locks my car also! The remote is simply messed up.

Super price for a super item. Can't tell the original from the this one. Exact match and programmable . Comes with battery installed. You can't go wrong with this unit and price. Fast Shipping also.

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great price had looked for a while this was great to be able to get it at that price...cool. just the right part to.

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Fob programmed perfectly even the remote start. I had the dealer program the fob when doing other work. The fob is actually more sensitive than the original fobs.

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The description for this remote was totally misleading. I had ordered it for a 2008 Chevy Cobalt.

When I took it to the remote to the dealer we found it is for a Chevy SUV not a Cobalt.

However the dealer was able to program it to operate the doors and panic button but not the remote

Start.

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Galaxy AS-900 - 659.0 MHZ

• AS-900T wireless transmitterBody-pack styleAF L/R indicatorTransmits in stereo or monoFixed frequencyXLR/1/4" combo inputRF output 10mWAS-900R wireless receiverSingle rackmountHeadphone out: volume control80mW2 "AA" batteriesRF indicatorLow-battery indicator3.2oz (90g)

Its ok when working .. this system is notorius for the reciever having connectivity issues .. doesnt always want to turn on .. the silver contacts on the inside are cheaply made ... but other than that when worklng there arent really any comnplaints

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I purchased the AS-900 to check out in-the-ears for my four-piece contra dance band. This type of music is all instrumental and all acoustic, but the playing environment is extremely loud and extremely reverberant. It frequently is not possible for band members to hear each other or themselves. Floor monitors or hot-spot type monitors often make the on-stage noise level worse.

I've used the AS-900 along with a set of the Klipsch image s4 buds for three dances. I'm currently the only person in the band using in-ears. I have not tried the buds supplied with the AS-900. For all three gigs, the transmitter was about twenty feet away. Here are my results:

1. The fixed frequency of the AS-900 has absolutely not been a problem at all. The three gigs were in the Philadelphia suburbs, in northern New Jersey and on Manhattan. I experienced no interference at all, as in none. These are all densely populated areas. If I were going to experience interference from ambient sources, it should have happened by now.

2. The Klipsch IMAGE S4 In-Ear Enhanced Bass Noise-Isolating Headphones (Black) work well and are comfortable.

3. The belt clip for the AS-900 receiver is just a piece of wire, is entirely inadequate and flies off at every opportunity. Very annoying. I've wrapped it with several layers of electrical tape, which seems to hold it on O.K. for now. If the tape does not hold, I'll fabricate a belt clip from sheet brass and hold it on with Velcro. Galaxy should do a better job with this belt clip.

4. The rest of the band complains that they can't communicate with me when I've got the buds in. I'll have to add an ambient mic. Hopefully that won't cancel out all of the noise reduction benefit of the buds.

SPECIAL MART / HD 2.7-inch LCD Dual Car Dvr + GPS / G-sensor Car Video Camera / Car Camera Surveill

• 2.7'' 16:9 HD display without distortion.
• Duel camera two screen
• GPS LOGGER BASED ON golbal postiton system
• G-SENSOR
• Cyclic recording mode with no memory run out issue

I bought this for my husband who is very fussy and a bit of a techy and he loves it. He wanted a camera which was forward and backward recording and we have been using it for two month and have had no problems with it at all.