Showing posts with label honda odyssey car battery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label honda odyssey car battery. Show all posts

Monday, October 20, 2014

Cobra CPI1000 1000W 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter with USB Port

Cobra CPI1000 1000W 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter with USB Port
  • 1000 watts continuous power with 2000 watts peak power
  • 5 volt USB output for running and charging your electronic devices
  • Direct-to-battery cables included
  • 2 AC outlets
  • Heavy duty construction capable of handling multiple loads

I bought this inverter to run my home fridge during power outages. It works great. No problems starting and running the compressor. It even handled a 1/2" drill motor easily.

I picked this one for it's power and voltage display. It allows me to estimate the battery draw so I have an idea how long it will last. I also liked the USB power source, although I have not used that yet.

It does come with nice HEAVY power leads (with clips), although they are very short. Good enough to set right next to a battery and clamp on.

So far, no complaints or problems.

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I have these in all 4 of my company's vans to run heavy duty continuous use machines. My old inverters would pop and I would have to turn them off and back on. If these surge it resets itself within less than a second and keeps on truckin. I had to install a solenoid for them to work correctly (my mechanic advised me to do that, I dont know the technicalities) because without the solenoid it wasn't drawing enough power. I have been very impressed with the quality and price of these and will continue to buy them.

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Excellent product, I am using it to run my Directtv,automatic dish, TV, and much more. I am sure I am only using a small amount of its capabilities but works great.

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My first review of this product was not a kind one. I could not use a toaster or coffee pot with this device and chastised cobra for over stating the wattage capabilities. After many hours of work and upgrading to another bigger one with the same results, I wanted to rewrite my review. If you take this inverter or the bigger one, and put it right at the battery with the supplied clamps, it WILL deliver a strong output and make a pot of coffee with a normal toaster. Keep in mind a toaster and a coffee pot are pretty much a direct-short to a power supply since they are heating elements. There is no more difficult task for an inverter to do! Vacuum cleaners, all those things are easy compared to heating element type appliances. Anyway, back to installation. If you have the device RIGHT at the battery it will deliver as promised since there is a short wire and no voltage loss.

BUT when I installed it under the seat of my RV with a top of the line amp install kit about 12 feet away, it did NOT deliver. It would beep and shut down. Even with the 100% copper wire, oxygen free stuff I used, it had voltage drop to make the inverter go below the magic level that makes it freak out. In my installation, I could NOT mount the inverter at the battery--there was not enough room. So long story short I put a second battery under the seat of the RV next to the inverter/ this battery only drives the inverter. Problem solved. works like a charm, but I would invest in the bigger one-if you can afford it. The voltage drop in the wire is very real issue. I am in the car electronics business and sell such things and it even amazed me and my co workers .

The bad thing to keep in mind, is that all of these converters have a cooling fan. You will hear this loud whirring noise while it runs. The fan has two speeds. If your car is running and it gets enough voltage the fan goes at low speed. BUT if your car is not running the fan is in high speed. Keep this in mind, you WILL hear this and it may make watching TV annoying. Install the inverter accordingly.

You do get what you pay for in inverters. If you were to step up to the more expensive brands of inverters that boast "sine wave" and "noise filtering" You will pay $400 or more and I bet they have less issue with voltage drop. But hey, you have to live within your budget.

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Tried several others before this one. main reason for purchase was for a PS3. Once I bought this one the PS3 worked... One caution though. If you use the old PS3 (fat one game play 200watts) the power required will or might give you feed back through the speakers in the form of a hiss. I purchased the newer skinner PS3(only 100 watts) and it was quite. Also I have seen several people use the 800 watt one and there are small lines of distortion from the alternator. This has an extra grounding terminal for chassis ground(below large ground) that seems to clear up this problem... Great product

Sunday, October 19, 2014

AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 MHz 6 Channel and Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button L

AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 MHz 6 Channel and Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button LCD Transmitter - C3-RS915LCD
  • Alarm With Remote Car Starter
  • 915 MHz 6 Channel And Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button LCD Transmitter
  • Five Button XT-915LCD 915MHz Two-Way LCD Transmitter
  • XT-915s 915MHz Extended Range Remote Transmitter
  • Spread Spectrum Encoder

I ordered this AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 from DiscountsJungle in late 2010. It was installed by a local installer in St. Louis. Fine installation. Strange remote. The remote resets its time every time it is turned back on (it turns itself off to save power). The remote supposedly can be programmed to stay on I have not been able to make that work. On the other hand the remote is very power hungry and if on all the time needs recharging often. Once off, the remote must be slapped against something (hand/leg) to activate a motion sensor and the lock button must be pressed to turn back on. This is not documented in the owners manual. When the remote is turned off you will not be notified if the alarm goes off. So much for a 2-way remote. I wish I had my Audiovox alarm back.

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like the system works great. but my remote restarted all the time. so i bought a new remote and the same thing happened and the new remote quit working all together.

Read Best Reviews of AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 MHz 6 Channel and Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button L Here

Good product that works well. Protects my car and starts it everytime I have used it. It is powerful enough where I can start my car in my bedroom and it will turn on in the driveway, but I am not sure that there is a 1 mile range as when I am further away from my car it is not in range to start. The LCD screen is convenient and lets me know that my car is started but the instructions to check the temp and set timer, etc are a little tough and you have to cycle through buttons alot. I had to get this device professionally installed which made it a bit more expensive, but overall it was still a lot cheaper than buying a device off of a chain store and having them install it. I would probably buy this product again if I needed something similar, but would more likely lean towards the starters that work from smart-hones and ipods.

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well i can't honestly tell you how the product is, considering the remote wasnt working when i recieved it from phimart. if your thinking of purchasing this alarm then thats good but if its being purchased thru phimart..please think about it, very bad company, customer service is non existent, once they have your money your relationship is over with them. they dont answer phone calls or anything. so again..be careful who you deal with!!

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This is a comparison review of the DEI Viper 5704V, the AutoPage CS3-RS915 LCD, and the CodeAlarm ca6551sst. I also have a DEI Viper 5901aka 5702V (the previous version of the 5704), and an AutoPage RS855 LCD.

---Background---

I have always done and prefer to do all my own installs. Not only is it something that I have the skills for and I enjoy doing, but I don't like other people disrespecting my property. Nobody respects anything that's not theirs, and I like to ensure everything is done to perfection without ruining anything. If you are technical and have patience, these systems are not difficult to install by any means. It's just a matter of knowing a little bit about electricity (12 Volts DC), locating the wires in your car that you need to tap onto, knowing how to carefully remove the panels in your car without breaking anything, and using the proper test tools, connectors, and wire wrap to make a very clean install without even cutting wires or drilling holes.

---Preface---

After purchasing a third car, needing to upgrade the systems in my current two cars, and researching the current selection of alarms, I decided to try each of the Directed Electronics Viper 5704, the Audiovox CodeAlarm ca6551sst, and the AutoPage CS3-RS915-LCD. They are all in the same class of 2-way paging alarms with remote start, and use spread spectrum technology to communicate between the main unit and the key fob. For those of you that don't know, this technology has been around for a while, and simply means that the communications can occur on multiple frequencies. This is good in case there is interference on one frequency, the transmissions can potentially get through to the receiver on another frequency.

Besides having long range 2-way and spread spectrum technology, the other things that are important to me when selecting a security system:

*Rechargeable remote I hated having to keep a stash of AAA batteries around for my previous security systems.

*Good manufacturer reputation I've had good luck with my AutoPage system, and I know that Audiovox has been around for a while. I gave DEI a shot again just based on their name. I have used a lot of their accessories in the past (shock sensors, motion sensor, power door lock actuators, etc.) and have had good luck. DEI is the largest car security system manufacturer out there. DEI was founded by Darrell Issa, who is currently a congressman with a new worth of approximately $½ billion. One big problem I have with DEI is that they are very partner focused, and don't warranty their systems if they aren't installed by an authorized DEI dealer. This also means if you lose the (very un-detailed) install/wiring guide that the system comes with, you're not going to just be able to download it from their web site. So, make sure you take photos of it/make copies before you lose or destroy it. AutoPage and Audiovox both make their install guides available for download on their web sites, and I suggest you review those as well as the user's manual entirely before deciding on a system to purchase since they will give you a lot of information as to the functionality.

*Lots of customization options one important thing for me is to be able to disable the arm and disarm chirps. Since the remotes for 2-way security systems such as these beep/vibrate to confirm that you've successfully armed/disarmed the systems, why would you want your car's siren or horn to chirp as well, unless you're trying to show off? I like to be stealth! The arm/disarm confirmation chirps can be enabled and disabled through the customization programming that's described in the install manual of all of these alarms.

*Two car functionality All these systems support 2 cars, with varying difficulty of switching the remote from one car to the other.

*Vibrating remote Being in a noisy place can easily drown out the high pitched sounds that the key fob makes when your alarm goes off.

---The Reviews---

I installed the DEI Viper 5901 in my older car several years ago. I purchased the 5901 and a competitive AutoPage alarm that came with a color OLED display at the same time. I decided to send the AutoPage alarm back and keep the 5901 in that car due to it having better range when comparing side by side, and the AutoPage's fob's color OLED display being impossible to see in sunlight. Had I have known the problems I was going to run into with DEI's junk 5901, I would have returned them both and purchased the AutoPage system with the non-color LCD display and with the spread spectrum technology. (Spread spectrum allows for communicating over multiple frequencies to get around interference.)

Going back to my DEI Viper 5901, it has a major flaw where once every 2-3 months it will take 100's of tries of hitting the unlock button to disarm the system and unlock the car. I usually will end up having to use my key to get into my car, setting off the alarm along with making everyone around look and/or waking up all the neighbors, and quickly reaching under the dash and pulling the system's wire to the horn/power (whichever I could get to first). Pulling the power and resetting the system will fix the problem temporarily. The Viper 5901 would also frequently have a long delay before actually arming/locking and disarming/unlocking after hitting a button on the fob. Furthermore, sometimes pushing the buttons on the fob would have no effect at all, not even a confirmation beep like the fob would normally emit when pushing a button. I've read some other reviewers complain about this as well. I also have a couple other gripes with it, one being that the car finder will simply lay on the horn solid for several seconds, rather than a series of short beeps (like the CodeAlarm and the AutoPage systems will do). The way the 5901 and now the new 5704 just slams the horn solid for several seconds is a great way of getting people near your car pissed off and getting everyone to stare at you looking for your car. Maybe if you're the type to always pay attention to where you park or live in a small village somewhere and don't ever travel to a shopping mall this won't be a problem for you. Like many people out there though I have a very busy lifestyle with a lot of ADD and distractions, so I need to have a good functioning car finder! Second, even though you would have the system set to not chirp when arming/disarming, if the battery in the fob was low, it would chirp the horn for a long duration after about a 5-10 seconds from disarming the system. This was very frustrating at night when trying to wake everyone up, including the neighbors. The fob beeps when the battery is low anyhow, so why does it need to chirp your horn in addition? Also, if by design you're going to make the system chirp the horn when the battery in your fob is low, why have it chirp when you're going to the car???? It should chirp when you're leaving your car because that's when you're most likely going to go inside somewhere that you can charge it! There's also no option to disable this. Lastly, they decided it would be smart to integrate the shock sensor into the unit on the 5901. Ridiculous! This all just goes to show how little common sense the engineers who designed this thing have.

I called DEI to mention these problems, and some cocky kid answered the phone that had no interest in my comments. They did verify that the car finder and fob battery low chirp issues I mentioned above had not been corrected, and I verified this after receiving the new Viper 5704V and testing it.

After receiving each system, I first hooked them up on the bench to test. The first test was the power draw when armed and not alarming. This is important if you're going to let your car sit armed for an extended duration, like at an airport parking lot. The Viper and the CodeAlarm each drew ~40ma when armed, and the AutoPage ~24ma. Next was the range test. With the antennas all near each other, the range was almost identical when walking around my city neighborhood. Of course, it was no where near a mile that all the manufacturers claimed more like 1200 feet down to the end of my street. Sometimes the CodeAlarm would work where the Viper wouldn't, and vice versa. I'm sure the FCC has a transmit power limit that the manufacturers must abide by. Expect around 1000-1500 feet at the most. If you really want to get notified, you can always get a prepaid SIM card and a 12v GSM alarm from eBay so you can get a text message on your cell phone. I will tell you I can park my car half way out in the parking lot of a typical WalMart or grocery store, and be able to communicate with my car half way into the store. Range is very dependant on obstructions.

One thing to note is that these systems are not capable of full duplex communications between the system and the fob, meaning that if the system is transmitting to the fob, the system will not receive any button pushes on your fob. This is relevant in a couple scenarios. First, if your car is alarming, expect it to take up to 15 seconds of you standing there pushing the button on your fob for your system to stop alarming. This is because your system will be transmitting to alert your remote that there it is in alarm. The manufactures may have designed in periodic brief pauses in the transmission to allow for a signal from the remote to get through, and if you're lucky to press the button at just the right time, you might get your system to stop alarming sooner. In my tests, I was able to stop the AutoPage from alarming the soonest. This also applies to remote start. After your system starts your car, it will be transmitting to confirm that your car has started. You'll have to wait up to 15 seconds to be able to disarm your alarm and unlock your doors after using remote start. If I'm in a safe area, I'll usually disarm the system before activating remote start.

Another thing to note with the fob communications is that for all of these systems it may take up to 10 seconds or so for your fob to be notified of your security system going off. The fobs from all manufacturers work similar to cell phones to conserve the battery life they only turn the receiver on every so many seconds. So, if your security system happens to be triggered right after your fob went out of listening mode, you may have lost valuable time to nab the perpetrator who broke into or crashed into your car. From my tests, the AutoPage had the slowest frequency of checks and took the longest to be notified of an alarm condition.

Each system has a "warn away" function that relies on the dual stage shock sensor they come with. When a lighter touch on your vehicle is detected, the siren/horn chirps quickly. I find that the "warn away" is pretty much useless, and is frequently set off by loud motorcycles driving by. The warn-away feature is complicated by the fact that the shock sensors that these systems come with only have a single adjustment, rather than a separate adjustment for each stage. So, you can't customize your sensitivity for full alarm vs. warn away and you may end up with lots of warn away pages/beeps if you like your shock sensor sensitive. You might be better off either not using the warn-away, or purchasing a separate shock sensor (they are cheap) just for the warn away function to be adjustable. In my case I installed a front and rear shock sensor in my daily driver for better coverage of my car. In my car that I installed the AutoPage system in, I had to rig the warn-away wire over to the full alarm input to get better sensitivity. I also had to use a DEI504D shock sensor with the AutoPage system due to the bug mentioned below and the fact that it has better sensitivity than the AutoPage OEM shock sensor.

--Pros and Cons of the Systems--

First, I'm very jaded against DEI with the bad experience I had with my 5901. Furthermore, the issues I had with the battery low warning chirping your horn/siren when you go to your car, and the car finder have been carried over to the 5704V. The other disaster with the 5901 was that the shock sensor was integrated into the 5901, which limited your installation locations. Thankfully, due to enough complaints, DEI did not carry this dumb idea over to the 5704. The only thing that was nice about having the integrated shock sensor was that you could adjust the sensitivity from your remote, vs. having to potentially pull apart interior panels to adjust your shock sensor. If these companies could come up with a standard to be able to adjust the shock sensor sensitivity from the system itself rather than the shock sensor, that would be great!

The DEI 5704 has the most fine tuning options of any of the systems, as well as programmable output wires. The vast majority of people will not need to make use of these, and furthermore, you need to purchase a DEI Bitwriter to program many of those options. They could have just put a USB or serial port on the main system, but DEI wants to sell you an additional piece of hardware. Some of the Bitwriter options include remote start run time by the minute, smart start temperature, and siren duration by the seconds. You can also customize the key fob icon for each of the Aux outputs to Trunk, Window, and Sunroof with a Bitwriter. For me, I would rather not have the above problems, not have to buy a Bitwriter, and slightly less customization capabilities.

In regards to the key fobs, the fob for the 5704 is the same as the one used with my older 5901. One complaint I had with that was that the rubber cover over the USB charging port only lasted a few months before disintegrating. Of all three of the fobs, none have an extremely noticeable vibration capability. During an alarm, the CodeAlarm and the Viper had the most noticeable vibrator, with the AutoPage being slightly less. I can tell you from the Viper that I've had mixed results with the vibrator alerting me. The problem is that none of the fobs actually vibrate and sound at the same time. Rather they sound, then vibrate briefly, then sound again. The piezzo buzzer on the AutoPage fob, however, is at least twice as loud as the one on both the Viper and the CodeAlarm. In fact, I find myself having to use the AutoPage's fob while it's in my pocket sine it's so piercingly loud.

The Viper 5704 and the AutoPage CS3-RS915LCD both have mini USB connectors on the key fobs. The CodeAlarm has the more modern style, micro USB charging connector. If you're an iPhone user, you're going to have to have multiple chargers in either scenario. If you're an Android user, you'll be happy with the CodeAlarm's fob since it's nice to have one universal charger that will work for your phone and your key fob, not to mention there will certainly be lots of your friends and coworkers that will have a micro-USB charger lying around if needed. The fobs that come with the AutoPage and the CodeAlarm both have painted fronts, and expect them to wear quickly. The plating on the CodeAlarm and AutoPage's fobs have both disintegrated pretty well over several months. I wish they would just leave the paint off and leave them rubberized black plastic. The silver paint on my Viper fob is half gone exposing an ugly greenish plastic underneath. Finally, I found with all the fobs, that it's very easy to accidentally hit one of the super large lock/unlock buttons when they're moving around in your pocket. One thing with the AutoPage, if you hit the lock button while the system is already armed, it triggers the car finder and will beep your horn annoying. With the CodeAlarm, you have to hit a side button to trigger the car finder, which is difficult to do by accident. If you manage to hold down the unlock button, that ends up being a trunk release, if you have that functionality in your vehicle.

The fob for the AutoPage is almost identical to the CodeAlarm (they both must be using the same manufacturer for the remotes), but the navigation is completely different. Getting to 2-car mode with the CodeAlarm is much easier just press the F button, then lock and unlock together. With the AutoPage, you have to go through the menu, which can be tricky (though it's at least a menu vs. having to memorize some random key sequences). For the Viper, you have to hold down the F button as well to change to car 2. I like how you can also customize the color on the Viper's and the AutoPage's fob's backlights. As far as battery life goes, you should get at the very minimum around 5 weeks or more per charge on any of the fobs depending on usage.

From experience with the key fobs, the plastic LCD display covers get scratched and blurred very quickly from being in your pocket, bag, etc with other keys and items. At the same time you get one of these systems, get some good quality screen protectors with STRONG adhesive so they don't peel up. When you get the systems, they come with a cheap plastic sticky protector on the fob's display. Peel that off and keep it to use as a template to cut screen protectors. Put it on top of a screen protector, and trace around it with a fine tip marker (I use the fine tip Sharpies). Cut out inside the line you drew. It's not going to be perfect, but it's better than eventually having a blurry and scratched display. Oh, and make sure you clean the grease, etc. off your fob's display with rubbing alcohol before applying the screen protector.

For the remote start functionality, they all behave pretty similarly, though I've only tested the CodeAlarm in practice. The only two difference I see are that first, you have more one more option with the AutoPage to avoid accidental starts. With all of them, you can at the very least set them so you need to hit the start button twice within a few seconds. Second, with both the AutoPage and Viper, you can have temperature controlled starts, with the AutoPage able to be set at 0 degrees F, and 15 degrees F, and Viper only 0 degrees, but the Viper customizable to 10 degree F increments if you also have a Bitwriter. The Viper can also start your car at a high temperature for cooling, where the AutoPage only has a low temperature. The viper might be helpful for you if you happened to need to leave a pet in the car in a hot climate. For me, I would never use temperature controller start, and I would carefully consider whether or not you would use it before making a decision based on this.

So far, I've had no major issues with the remote start functionality of the ca6551sst. I tested it in combination with an iDatalink transponder bypass, as well as a DEI PKALL, but it took many, many tries to get the PKALL programmed, so I didn't trust it. With both bypasses I had to increase the crank time since they're slow to send the code, but the ca6551sst let me easily adjust that. And that leads me to one more difference in the remote start the Viper and the AutoPage have several more options for crank time than the CodeAlarm, but again that hasn't posed an issue for me with the CodeAlarm.

As far as the alarm functionality goes, the CodeAlarm has an enormous win over the Viper and AutoPage, and that is that if you use the horn for your alarm, when your alarm is triggered it will optionally (by default) hold on your horn with random brief pauses! This definitely is an attention getter wow! Personally, I don't hook up the included sirens, I only use the horn since I don't like to drill a hole through the car's firewall to run a wire for the siren. Sometimes you can find an unused wire in your car to use for the siren, or just be able to slip a wire through an existing hole through the firewall.

As with my Viper, when disarming the CodeAlarm I've found that once or twice a week it will take 1-2 button pushes to disarm the security system, where each time I'm standing within a few feet of the vehicle. Fortunately it hasn't been the 100's of times it would take with the Viper.

One other issue I have with the CodeAlarm is that there is a "ground while armed" wire on the CodeAlarm that I use for a secondary warning LED that I mounted on the dash of my vehicle. Unfortunately, it's also on during remote start even when the system is disarmed. Because of this, it stays on until I put my key in the ignition, turn it to on, and press the brake to release the system's control over the starter. This means I'm going to have to get a relay that will cut off ground to the LED during remote start. The Viper on the other hand has 4 programmable outputs that you can set either to validity, link to arm, link to disarm, link to arm/disarm, or remote start only. They're all controllable from the fob. It's nice that they have these built in, but you'll need a Bitwriter to program and fob icon and the latch time away from the default of 30 seconds if you're planning on using them for window rollup and/or sunroof closure. The AutoPage has 3 programmable outputs, and you can program the timer from 1 second to 2 minutes without any sort of add-on. For the CodeAlarm you'll need an external timer relay.

The AutoPage is the only one of the three that doesn't have warning LEDs on the antenna, and comes with an external LED. This is important to me since the antenna can draw attention to the antenna's location. If someone is smart enough, they could break into your car and if they rip off the antenna quick enough, you would never get a page. On the other hand though, not having LEDs integrated into the antenna could be a drawback for the install since then you have to find a place to mount your LED, and potentially have to drill a hole somewhere. For me, I purchased a small black plastic project box, drill a hole in it, mounted the LED in, and mounted the box in the car using double sided 3m sticky mounting squares found at Walmart.

One other note is that the CodeAlarm has no car temperature check functionality, whereas both the Viper and CodeAlarm do. Also, as alluded to above, both the AutoPage and the Viper have extra programmable outputs if you want them to close your windows, sunroof, etc. The CodeAlarm only has one programmable output, though on the Viper and AutoPage, those outputs have various limited functionality. I suggest downloading the manuals for more info.

In regards to support, I did contact DEI three times twice by phone, and once by email. I definitely have to give them credit as they answered me each time in a timely fashion by phone and email. I tried calling AutoPage, and was not able to get through on their consumer phone support number. I also tried emailing AutoPage, and I never received a reply. I did not try contacting CodeAlarm's support.

In summary, I think any of these can be winners depending on your requirements, likes, and dislikes. The AutoPage has everything the CodeAlarm has and then some, except for the random horn honk feature when alarming. The big thing that I really like about the CodeAlarm is definitely the random horn honks that would really get people's attention in a parking lot full of cars where most people have learned to tune out car alarm honking. However, the AutoPage does have a slightly better fob with a more powerful vibrator and much louder sound which is really important to me. I also like how the AutoPage will let you change the fob's background color whereas the CodeAlarm will not, not that this should be a deciding factor. I would only go with the Viper if for some reason I didn't mind purchasing a Bitwriter, needed an extreme customization option, or the high temp auto start capability. Personally, my favorite is the CodeAlarm.

Lastly, it should be mentioned that all three have the ability to link to optional cellular based add-ons that you pay subscription fees for so you can get alarm notifications, start your car, unlock your doors, etc. from a smart phone. AutoPage calls their's C3. DEI/Viper calls theirs SmartStart (not good reviews here on Amazon), and CodeAlarm (Audiovox) calls their add-on 220Carlink. The DEI/Viper and the AutoPage both have GPS tracking available. The subscription fees vary, so do some homework.

---Major Bug with AutoPage System Received---

Finally, I must mention that the AutoPage systems apparently have a manufacturing bug at this time. I purchased two from different resellers, and they both had this bug. The majority of the time, triggering the warn-away stage on the shock sensor will subsequently trip the 2nd stage/full alarm for the majority of the time. Other times it behaves normally for a while until the unit is power cycled. Or, if the unit is power cycle, it will start misbehaving again. Sometimes when the 1st stage is tripped, the LED's for both stages go into a frenzy for a minute or so, though the alarm never gets triggered. When I remove the blue wire from the shock sensor harness (the 2nd stage trigger), the 2nd stage doesn't get triggered. When I have the system set in shock sensor test mode, it behaves fine. It also works fine when paired with a DEI 504d shock sensor. So, the problem appears to be a combination of the main unit and the shock sensor. This problem could go unnoticed since unless you are paying close attention, the only symptom one would see, depending on how and what you were doing you set your shock sensor's sensitivity, is that occasionally it will either take much less of a hit to set the system off (if you set the shock sensor sensitivity when it was behaving normal), or it will take a much harder hit to set the system off (if you set the shock sensor when it was acting up). Personally, I hate the warn away feature since it's an annoyance, and I always pull the warn away wire out of the shock sensor's harness (the green wire in this case), so it's not a big deal. It's still a bug though that makes me doubt AutoPage's quality control.

If anyone else out there reads this review that has one of these system, please test your shock sensor out over a few days time and leave a comment here letting us know if you're experiencing the same issue. You will see this issue as it will be impossible to just trigger the warn-away feature of the shock sensor. With a light hit, the green LED will light first, followed by another blink of the green LED, then the red LED.

Sunday, October 5, 2014

7.5" Portable DVD Player TV AV MP3 FM USB SD Card Radio Games 270¡Ã£ Swivel TFT

7.5' Portable DVD Player TV AV MP3 FM USB SD Card Radio Games 270¡ã Swivel TFTThis DVD player is perfect for taking on the road & keeping the little ones entertained. I love the swivel & fold feature which makes it fit perfectly into the headrest mount holder I also purchased through Amazon. Wonderful clear picture & good sound for a small machine. It also came with a game disc & controllers which reminded me of the original PacMan days. Very primitive, but I suppose some young children might find them entertaining if there's nothing else to watch or do in the car.

Anti-log TV are you kidding me, where in digital world now.

I can not believe I fell for that one. I should have read better .

Buy 7.5" Portable DVD Player TV AV MP3 FM USB SD Card Radio Games 270¡Ã£ Swivel TFT Now

Saturday, August 9, 2014

INNOVA 3030 Diagnostic Code Reader for OBDII Vehicles

INNOVA 3030 Diagnostic Code Reader for OBDII VehiclesRecently the "Check Engine" light illuminated on the dashboard of my 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI, and I used this as an excuse to purchase a code reader. I chose the Equus 3030 based on price, richness of user interface, and sophistication of the company's website (Innova).

I was not looking for a high-end tool, with battery-backed up memory and an internal list of code descriptions. Ideally, I will seldom use this tool, and using the manual (or even better, the company's website) to look up codes works fine for me. So I have to write down the code on a piece of paper, and take that to my computer, rather than the unit remembering it for me. Plus, no batteries to go dead while the tool sits in my toolbox.

I did appreciate the extra indicators on the LCD display, and the Green/Yellow/Red LEDs for quickly checking the status of the system. Other inexpensive code readers have a single line of text displayed, with very little else, and you need to scroll around to get information. With the Equus 3030, icons are displayed to indicate which tests have run, or have not returned good status. Also, a count of codes, pending status, and the status of the check engine light are all displayed along with the code itself.

The CD included with the unit is designed for Windows users. However, it contains the manual in PDF form, plus an instructional video that played just fine on my Mac. I cannot comment on anything else on the CD, but it's certainly not required to use the tool. And as I mentioned, code lookup can easily be done on the Innova website, with the URL printed on the front of the tool. I have the hope that they will keep their database of trouble codes up-to-date, which is often better than software on a CD.

I was able to plug the tool in to my car's OBDII connector, turn on the ignition switch (without starting the engine), press the "link" button, and in seconds had a code displayed. I noted the code, and looked through the user manual. Unfortunately, they only list common codes in the user manual, and didn't have my code. So I typed it in to the search box on their web page and found that I had a fault in my #2 cylinder glowplug. It was a simple test to verify that (check the resistance of each plug), and indeed that was the fault. I have glow plugs on order, and will replace them myself on the weekend.

This device is cheaper than even having a mechanic look at my car these days. Even if I wasn't able to fix the problem myself, I feel more confident going to a mechanic if I have a good idea of what the problem is. The price I spent was well worth it to me, and now I have the tool in case similar issues come up in the future. With today's car electronics, there is no other reasonable way to diagnose trouble.

This is what it is and does what it does. It is a basic bare bones code reader (doesn't give you any live telemetry data) but has the advantage of being future proof. This is one of the most affordable code readers that works with the older On-Board Diagnostics (OBDII) and the newer Controller-area network (CAN or CAN-bus). CAN has been in use by some car manufacturers since the 1990's but as of 2008 all new cars sold in the U.S. are required to use CAN. Both protocols use the same type of connector on most cars. Even if you have a car that is OBDII don't be tempted to save a few bucks on an OBDII only reader; you're bound to have a CAN type car in the future.

It is well made, the LCD and status lights are highly readable and the controls are simple and easy to learn. Amazon is shipping the updated 3030a model that is virtually the same as the one pictured except for a slightly different button placement and a newer processor that apparently is more compatible with all car manufacturers.

Buy INNOVA 3030 Diagnostic Code Reader for OBDII Vehicles Now

As a backyard mechanic I was frustrated with the new cars and the check engine light that results in a $60 charge to read at a garage. Now that the price of a reader is less than $80 it makes sense to try the Equus Innova 3030 car reader and I was happy I did. It works great and is easy to use but does have a minor problem I discovered. My Subaru would not communicate with the 3030. The tech support phone line was tied up, but they quickly responded to my email and sent me a new Innova 3030 with a new chip set. Apparently Subarus, Mazdas and Volkswagons tend to have a problem in communication and in this case require a newer chip set in the 3030 which apparently works on all brands (I checked my Honda and toyota OK), so if you have one of the former car brands ask for the newer chip set. The manual has one misprint and the key must be turned to on position before plugging the 3030 into the car. Tech support at the website was great and called back later. I had already saved $60 on reading my codes plus saved $80 labor by installing a failed sensor myself although I think many other codes require a shop manual to actually track down the problem part. In summary a great tool for backyard mechanics to read the codes, fix the car and turn off the check engine light.

Read Best Reviews of INNOVA 3030 Diagnostic Code Reader for OBDII Vehicles Here

I did my research and I don't think you'll find a better featured OBDII compliant code scanner for the money. Comes with complete instructions and a bonus CD with more information. It plugged right in and ran its diagnostics without any problems. This unit will probably pay for itself after one or two uses to check stored codes if your vehicle's MIL comes on. Even if you don't do the repairs yourself, you'll be in more of a position to know and understand what needs to be done when you take it in for service. Certainly less chance of being misled as well. Highly recommended. Obviously, before you buy, make sure you are buying it for use on OBDII compliant vehicle(s)-generally 1996 and later. Otherwise it won't do you any good.

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Modern (post 1996) cars provide on-board diagnostic information. All car manufacturers use the format because it was mandated to make it easy to perform emissions tests.

The Equus Innova 3030 code reader retreives diagnostic codes from your car's engine and displays the error code(s) on its display. The 3030 does not need batteries either because it is powered by your car's battery via the OBDII port. You can then look up these codes in the manual or on the Equus website to get details of the problem. These codes enable you to determine what is wrong with the car and then take corrective measures. For example, if the code indicates a cylinder misfire and the spark plugs were recently changed, the cylinder misfire may indicate a bad spark plug. You can then change the spark plug for that cylinder.

This device will also clear the check engine light (CEL). This is useful when you have taken corrective measures, such as replacing a defective part, and you want to determine if you have solved the problem. Replace the defective part, clear the CEL, and run the car. If the CEL does not come on again, the problem is fixed. If the CEL comes on again, then the problem probably lies elsewhere so you might have to try replacing a different part.

This device is also useful for going to the auto mechanic armed with some knoweldge of the problem and will save you the cost of your mechanic having to plug in his much more expensive OBDII reader just so that he can make the same diagnosis.

The manual says not to turn on the car but I kept getting an error message when I plugged in the 3030 to my 08 Mazda with just the key in at the ACC position. However, once I started the car it worked fine, retreiving the error codes, displaying them, and allowing me to clear them. So if you get an error following the procedure in the manual, try turning the car on after you plug it in.

All in all, this is an excellent diagnostic code reader for the money. Highly reccomended.

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Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Ballistic EVO2 50 Dry LiFePO4 Motorcycle Battery 80CCA

Ballistic EVO2 50 Dry LiFePO4 Motorcycle Battery 80CCAInstalled the 16 cell unit to replace a conventional lead acid battery in our vintage race car. Double the CCA with a 16 lb reduction in weight. Unfortunately it didn't even last 1 hour. It failed completely, going from 13.2 v to.6 v in a heart beat.

There are not instructions about having to mount it to protect from vibrations and I have never had to do so to any battery over 40 years of running race cars. So far my email to Ballistic has gone unanswered concerning the warranty and why it should fail from vibration.

I purchased a spare so I will install it for the next test day and see if it lasts any longer. I will follow up after the test day. But for me the jury is out.

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Thursday, July 3, 2014

Auto Theft Deterrent Light (Fake Car Alarm)

Stalwart 72-22248 Auto Theft Deterrent LED LightI love this product! It is my second one, I sold my other car and the buyers wanted to keep it, so I ordered this one.

So easy to use. Just put in the batteries and place it where you want in the car. That's it. It really showes up at night. There is a small recessed area in the lower part of the dash and that is a perfect place.

Also love the off-on switch which saves on batteries. The price is very good and the seller sent it very quickly.

Highly recommend!

Save your money it's junky, cheap and not worth the price.

Mine stoped working in cold weather and the battery cover broke.

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Don't waste your money. The way the two LEDs blink make this thing look like what it is... a toy. Very disappointed. Can't believe I spent more than 1 dollar on such a crappy thing. Even a kid would understand that this thing is not an alarm.

Read Best Reviews of Auto Theft Deterrent Light (Fake Car Alarm) Here

These things look real enough, especially at night when, presumably, they're most needed. Of course, they may not fool every would-be car burglar, but any with half a brain will probably opt not to test them. And, at just over 20 bucks for the pair (including shipping), that's a pretty cheap bluff.

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At night, this phoney alarm looks very convincing. When you mount it, rest it on a ledge since the velcro that comes with it is not very strong. I ve had it for a month and the batteries are still working. The shipping was as much as the product but this can not be had in your typical auto parts store. Probably because they would not sell the real thing that costs $200 more.

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Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Car Charger for LG VX1000, VX3200, VX3300, VX4650, VX6100, VX7000, LX325, MM535, LX535, VX4700, VX8

Car Charger for LG VX1000, VX3200, VX3300, VX4650, VX6100, VX7000, LX325, MM535, LX535, VX4700, VX8100, VX8000, AX4750, AX5000, LX225, VX9800, AX4270I relearned the lesson that you get what you pay for. I paid only $1 for this charger, and I probably paid too much. It seemed to have troubles immediately, in that when plugged in and attached to the phone, my phone constantly beeped and the screen brightness flickered, almost as if the connection was intermittent. Eventually, it damaged either the batter or the phone, because now the phone will hardly hold a charge.

Stay away!

Inexpensive item. Still worth the cheap cost. Works just fine. I would buy another one if needed.

Buy Car Charger for LG VX1000, VX3200, VX3300, VX4650, VX6100, VX7000, LX325, MM535, LX535, VX4700, VX8 Now

Thursday, May 8, 2014

Goal Zero 11004 Sherpa 50 Silver Portable Recharger

Goal Zero 11004 Sherpa 50  Silver Portable RechargerI purchased the Sherpa 50 to charge my iPhone and iPad 3 while camping. When fully charged it will charge up the iPad once from a near fully depleted iPad battery, or give 2 charges from 50%, in my experience (YMMV)

The Goal Zero system uses their own connectors which work nicely between their batteries, chargers, and solar panels. Since I already own the Sunlinq 12w and 25w panels, I needed to splice my own connectors to make these work together. I bought the Goal Zero 6' 8mm input cable extension and spliced a connector for the Sunlinq. I was able to charge the Sherpa 50 in about 4 hours from 60% to a full charge while the Sunlink 25w panel was in full sun. It would be easier (and maybe quicker) to use the Goal Zero panels, but I already own the Sunlinq.

Overall I am very pleased with the Sherpa 50; this is a well made high quality unit. My only criticism, is that the 8mm extension cord did not fit the Sherpa. I contacted customer service and they responded the next day, acknowledging the problem and recommending a fix (shave 1/8" off of the plastic connector barrel), which worked perfectly.

I use this on all my trips. When I am not using it with the solar panels, I plug it into my car adapter. Ironically my nexus 7 doesn't charge well with a car adapter, but charges fine with this bad boy.

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Saturday, March 1, 2014

1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006

1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 FORD EXPLORER AND EXPLORER SPORT TRAC ***UNIQUE FIRE RED*** 4 BUTTON KEYLESS ENTRY KEY REMOTE FOB TRANSMITTER CLICKER WITH FREE PROGRAMMING & DISCOUNT KEYLESS GUIDE!
  • FREE PROGRAMMING INCLUDED!
  • DISCOUNT KEYLESS GUIDE INCLUDED!
  • EXPERT KNOWLEDGEABLE CUSTOMER SERVICE!
  • UNIQUE FIRE RED FORD REMOTE ***MOLDED PLASTIC, NOT A CHEAP PAINTED SHELL***
  • OVER THE PHONE TECHNICAL SUPPORT AVAILABLE

Good quality construction, easy programing, and excellent operation from a distance. I have absolutely no reasons to complain about the product, nor the service!

Buy 1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Now

This remote works excellent just like the factory one. Programming was very simple. Price is good. My only complaint is how long it took to get here about 3 weeks. I would by this remote again.

Read Best Reviews of 1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Here

We received the remote in a timely fashion. The instructions were pretty clear. Just remember to turn the keys quickly. We bought the red one so we could distinguish my remote from my husbands. it does the trick. Haven't had any issues with it, had it for almost a month now. Am happy with this purchase.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

BaoFeng UV-5R 136-174/400-480 MHz Dual-Band DTMF CTCSS DCS FM Ham Two Way Radio

BaoFeng UV-5R 136-174/400-480 MHz Dual-Band DTMF CTCSS DCS FM Ham Two Way Radio
  • 25KHz/12.5KHz Switchable
  • Channel Step: 2.5/5/6.25/10/12.5/25KHz
  • Frequency Range: 136-174 / 400-480MHz
  • 128 Channels 50 CTCSS and 104 CDCSS
  • Dual-Band Display, Dual Freq. Display, Dual-Standby

You would be hard pressed to get a better dual band HT for $62. This radio has international settings, meaning that the entire frequency range from 130-174mhz and from 400-480mhz is open to both TX and RX. This means you do need to be careful as a Ham license only allows you to TX on 2m from 144-148mhz and on 440 from 420-450mhz. The radio is not FCC certified to transmit on any of the Marine VHF, MURS, FRS/GMRS, or business radio or emergency services radio frequencies that lie in these frequency ranges and operating in those frequency ranges with this HT will expose you to FCC action.

You definitely will need the programming cable as the included directions are not enlightening for programming the radio with the keypad. The programming software for the radio is a minimal spreadsheet program. There are better free aftermarket alternatives (there is an active Yahoo group devoted to this radio, there are plenty of Youtube videos, and there is an aftermarket programming package called CHIRP which is a better software program). Make sure that you firmly attach the cable as failure to attach the cable properly will lead to frustration.

The stock antenna is ok if you live under a repeater. For those not living under a repeater an aftermarket antenna is a good upgrade.

For operational purposes the radio transmits and receives quite well and will operate for quite some time on the rechargeable battery that is included with the radio.

For $62 you also have a radio that if it should fall into a lake, get lost or some other calamity strike you can replace it.

Buy BaoFeng UV-5R 136-174/400-480 MHz Dual-Band DTMF CTCSS DCS FM Ham Two Way Radio Now

The Baofeng UV-5R is not an APX7000, so if you're expecting that, you're not going to be impressed. If you want a good, reliable inexpensive dual band HT that is in fact a COMMERCIAL (it IS FCC part 90 certified) Radio, this is for you. Out of the box, it comes complete with a good 1800mah lithium ion battery, belt clip, hand strap and drop in charger. If you're familiar with commercial radios, you'll feel at home programming the UV-5R with the free software, but you'll need to purchase a USB cable if you don't already have one (this radio uses the same 2-pin Kenwood LMR style cable that Wouxun, TYT and many others use). The cables are less than $20.

You get 128 channels with any combination of VHF or UHF channels. Another plus is the radio ACTUALLY SUPPORTS NARROWBAND, INCLUDING SPLINTER CHANNELS. This is a HUGE plus if you want to use the radio to listen (or transmit, if you're authorized) to public safety after 2013 when the FCC mandates narrowband on VHF and UHF. Many agencies are also going to channel steps most ham radios cannot properly tune (e.g. 154.8225). The UV-5R uses DSP, so it has great audio on both transmit and receive. Reports I got about my transmit audio were great, and I noticed if I spoke loudly, the DSP did a good job of attenuating the voice to a tame level.

The display is fairly easy to read, and for it's size the keys are easy to press. What I really like is the large volume knob with integrated power switch, no accidental turn off of buttons! The PTT key is easy to actuate and you don't get fatigue for long conversations. Speaker is loud, though I don't think it has the 1 watt of audio the specifications state. It is loud enough to hear in a crowd or driving down the road with the window open. Construction of this HT is solid, does not feel like a $50 radio, more like a $150 radio.

The only downsides are the poorly written manual, but hey, this is a $50 radio not a $500 radio. If you've used LMR type radios, you'll be able to get around in the software, the menu system also lets you control many of the radios' features. It does have an FM radio, which actually has great sensitivity, and the flashlight feature is easy to actuate using the lower side button and actually comes in handy.

All in all, this is a great ham HT that has the unique ability to LEGALLY operate on part 90 (commercial) frequencies (for those duly authorized), has great performance, and a long battery life. For the price, you cannot go wrong with it. I would buy another and probably will.

Read Best Reviews of BaoFeng UV-5R 136-174/400-480 MHz Dual-Band DTMF CTCSS DCS FM Ham Two Way Radio Here

You get what you pay for. Not for a newbie when programming since the instructions are half a step above useless, and definitely translated. Some of the voice prompts are still in Chinese (low battery). You can get help from some internet user groups specifically for this radio. Programming the repeater offset in memory mode is not what I expected, and not in the instructions... you program the channel twice, once for receive, another for send. You really need to program the channels from a computer. I spent the extra money to get a USB programming cable to match, and downloaded the programming software from one of the user groups. From what I read it was worth getting the genuine cable. Some others commented they bought cheaper versions that turned out not to be compatible with the USB drivers.

I do like the voice prompts... you can use it in the dark, or one-handed without looking at it.

I wanted an inexpensive backup, and that is what it is. Seems to be sturdy, and does the trick, but my 25 year-old Kenwood still outperforms it on 2M.

So far, I am still glad I bought it for a backup.

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Be advised that a particular seller (that claims to be the actual distributor for Baofeng based in KY) advertises the original UV-5R radio but then ships the UV-5RA instead. Normally this would be no big deal, as the UV-5R series of radios are exactly the same inside and have no additional features except one the "newer" UV-5RA unit has a different front plastic face plate but that newer faceplate causes additional problems the design of the newer faceplate on the UV-5RA does NOT allow you to use the normal Baofeng 3800mAH battery (nor the cheaper 3600mAH generic clone battery that the same "distributor" claims (and lists) as an actual Baofeng 3800mAH battery. They claim their generic battery will work unmodified on the UV-5R series of radios (their justification for the switch), but it doesn't. See my Baofeng Extended Battery review for more info).

Yes, you can modify (on your own) the Extended Battery so it will fit the UV-5RA (or the other series of UV-5R radios with modified faceplates), but if the "distributor" lists the UV-5R (but then switches your order to whatever they have in stock instead of what they have listed) and then ships (in the same order) a generic clone Extended Battery that isn't the actual Baofeng AND doesn't work/fit with the radio they shipped, why is it your job to modify their items to make them work?

In addition, when you (as an Amazon customer) point out their multiple listing errors (shipping a non-Baofeng battery, shipping a less than advertised 3600mAH model (vs. the actual Baofeng 3800mAH model that was advertised on the listing), and shipping an Extended Battery that won't work on the UV-5RA radios that they switched your order to and shipped with them in the same box), they claim that:

a) Baofeng doesn't even make an Extended Battery (funny since I own several already with Baofeng Electronics' label on the inside of the case and Baofeng's name imprinted into the back of the plastic battery case), and that

b) if I'm not happy I should pay to ship my order back to them (this is how they treat a customer that ordered multiple radios, extended batteries, and programming cables all at once and paid over $117 in shipping fees)?

None of these issues may bother some folks, especially those that either don't care which model of radio they get and/or never plan to get an Extended Battery as an accessory, but I wanted folks to know what customer service issues you may face in dealing with this Baofeng "distributor" in KY.

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I'm no expert on HAM HT radios, but for the price, this is a fantastic little radio. I have another common Chinese brand and I think this one beats it hands down. It is smaller\lighter and looks better. Sound is clearer\louder. Reception is stronger. And it has better features. I would highly recommend it. But, purchase a programming cable and download the PC software. That is a much easier way to program the radio.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006

1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 FORD TAURUS ***UNIQUE NAVY BLUE*** 4 BUTTON KEYLESS ENTRY KEY REMOTE FOB TRANSMITTER CLICKER WITH FREE PROGRAMMING & DISCOUNT KEYLESS GUIDE!
  • FREE PROGRAMMING INCLUDED!
  • DISCOUNT KEYLESS GUIDE INCLUDED!
  • EXPERT KNOWLEDGEABLE CUSTOMER SERVICE!
  • UNIQUE NAVY BLUE FORD REMOTE ***MOLDED PLASTIC, NOT A CHEAP PAINTED SHELL***
  • OVER THE PHONE TECHNICAL SUPPORT AVAILABLE

The product shipped fast and was packaged neatly. The instructions for programing the fob were very easy to follow. I programed the fob in less than a minute and have had no trouble with the product. I would refer others to use Discount Keyless in the futher.

Buy 1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Now

Price was good but buttons are tempermental. Trunk works but lock and unlocking of doors are hit or miss. That's at any range. Thinking I should have just bought a replacement battery for the old one.

Read Best Reviews of 1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Here

I got one these and for some reason the distance was way short. Turned out it was just a dieing battery. Popped it open, put the new battery in and it works just fine now.

Want 1998-2012 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Discount?

works just as described and easy to set up.

BUT the range is nowhere near oem...sometimes it seems you have to be right next to the car for it to work