CES 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness

• 10 Gauge Wire For Heavy Current Applications
• Polorized Molded Connector (Red and Black Wire)

First off these connectors appear to be pretty good quality. The connectors easily connect and disconnect and are snug enough that I do not fear them coming apart on their own.

Each harness is actually two plugs connected together with a red and black wire. So while you get about twelve inches of wire with the harness you'll really only get about six inches connected to each plug. Right now though that's my only complaint, which isn't much of one as for my application I am easily able to splice each plug onto a longer cable.

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I bought a bunch of these six months ago at least, to use in my pet project solar system, that I am always working on and expanding. I really liked the convenience of the disconnect feature and wanted only number ten gauge wire. And this had the right gauge. I also found several in-line ATC 10 gauge wire fuse holders that work really well. However they started heating up on me and I didn't notice it right away!

I noticed in the reviews that some people were having trouble finding the fuse holders in 10 gauge. Try "The Install Bay" ATFH10C-10; WTRPRF ATC FSEHLD 10 GA W/C 10. These are the ten pack, but they are available individually as well. Alternately Ancor

Marine Grade Products Fuse Holders Amps 30 Style ATO/ATC INLINE; Part #607023

Anyway, I have been using these quick disconnects as leads into and out of my Sunsaver Mppt 15Amp Solar Controller. And I also wired them to two different battery banks, plus my solar panels lead in wires, basically on every piece of equipment in my system, though not to any of the fuse 10 gauge inline wires obviously.

I started having some strange problems where the Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT was skipping over the bulk charge phase and going into absorption almost right away. Battery voltage would be only 13.05 volts but the Sunsaver battery terminals were reading at 13.85V.

I was running about 150 watts in from the panels and that was very low. They added up to 220 watts nominal. And the 150 number was only at peak radiance levels.

I was using a Dr Watt meter that I connected using these quick disconnects into my battery out cables to try and find the problem.

I checked everything, cleaned the three deep cycle batteries that I had wired in parallel. Checked each solar module for voltage power at the box and at each end. Everything seemed good.

Finally I also upped the thickness of my battery interconnect cables to 4 gauge.

Still had the Sunsaver misreading the battery voltages. I figured it had to be a possible ground fault somehow feeding back to the Sunsaver and spoofing it into thinking the voltage was much higher then it really was.

If this is lengthy it's because I want to explain the processes i went through before i make the complaints. I had crimped connectors But didn't solder as I don't really know how to do that well.

Finally just touching the plastic housing of the quick disconnect on my battery lead out which connected to my battery cables I discovered that the plastic housing was burning hot. At only 120 watts solar input, 13.10 volt input. Output I mean.

Trying the quick disconnect on a brand new Samlex Power 15AMP Charger I got the same heat overload. Looking into the plastic housings of all of my disconnects you can see that the male pole is made from simply thin hollow tin. and so is the female side as well. The wires are 10gauge but the actual connectors look like 16 gauge at best! Real cheap stuff that they are using.

So I tried a bunch of different ways to connect them up and no matter how I did it, they still are getting so hot especially at the 130-200watt 12volt level, that it looks like the one I was using as the connect to my battery out terminals on the Sunsaver may have melted a bit and some bleed through occurred feeding back to the Controller. I yanked all of the connectors out of the system and presto! The Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT started working perfectly, and all problems went away! Really lucky that Morningstar builds such a wonderfully sturdy device that it wasn't harmed by the current feedback loop.

Now I don't have any disconnects at all and I really miss them. If anyone has any suggestions please send me a comment. I am thinking of switching over to the PowerPole system, but really am starting to hate all of these additional costs and over spending!

Oh, lastly, I never had any problems matching up positive with positive and negative with negative. It's really simple to remember that each loop needs each side wired as they are when you first get them.

Read Best Reviews of CES 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness Here

I bought this to be able to connect and quick disconnect a solar panel I'm using for a portable solar power setup. Adding the proper connectors to splice wires together was all it took to add this connector in and it works great. It works great for my needs!

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This 10awg 2 pin connector can handle the load for e-bike battery to motor connections very nicely. Of course it has other uses in the car stereo market, but I decided to make all my electric motor to battery connections using this high current capacity connector and they work great. Good for 30-35 amps which is about as much as the average ebike hubmotor can put out. I will be buying more of these great value connectors in the near future for my next ebike project.

Lately I have sent a few negative reviews (below 3) and have noticed that Amazon will summarily dump them. I can only guess that suppliers have infiltrated convinced them that this is not good for business. For folks that have noticed this peculiarity you might pass it on.