Bluetrek Compact Classic Ultra Slim Loud and Clear Carkit Speaker Driver Pack - Black

OK, I have to admit I had high hopes for this unit. I liked the thin design and using the mic to turn the unit on/off. Having the unit on the visor keeps the mic and speaker close. I was hoping that Bluetrek had improved on the previous design since I had read many mixed reviews on this and similar car kits. The unit charged quickly though took a while to pair initially. Now, when my iphone is searching and I lower the mic it pairs in seconds. Hold the button down and access voice control to dial. I've only made a few calls, but the other end could not tell I was on bluetooth. The volume can go loud if you need it, but with the speaker close to your head you won't. I have not tried it with windows down nor with music in the background. Also, I have not tried it outside of my car so I can't speak to the distance it can hold a connection. Only time will tell if it can hold up to the heat of the Las Vegas desert. For the price, i'm very satisfied.

I ordered 4 of these for myself and other family members not too long ago.

Worst piece of junk I've ever encountered, hands down...or hands free.

3 failed to pair... no matter what we did on our new Iphones. One did. I sent 2 back immediately for a refund from Amazon.

One I smashed into a million itty bitty pieces and mailed it to Bluetrek. It was worth the $47 of satisfaction I got from obliterating this piece of garbage.

I wish that I didn't have to give it even ONE star!

At least Amazon answered and reimbursed me. ( They have my everlasting loyalty for standing by me )

Bluetrek customer support is non existent so I can only say they don't care about their product

and won't support it.

I solved the problem with the purchase of Jabra Drive hands free devices instead.

Pairs up easily and works like a charm. So far I've used it for 3 months and it hasn't needed a charge yet.

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I bought 2 of these, thinking they were like the one I had previously owned. Not even close! Looks similar, but sound it so bad you can't even use it. My speaker phone on my mobile is a better option. Total waste of money and time :-( Tried to return them, but I was on vacation, tried when I got back, but Amazon says I missed the return "window" by one day! Also, had to return one right away, did not accept a charge, so I didn't get to test until later....The one that did except a charge didn't recognize my phone at first, so much time wasted...

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I thought this would be the answer to my all my phone-on-board worries! However, there's no one home so this just keeps on ringing in some very key areas.

What's good:

1) the price

2) Easy set-up

3) Extremely good/clear speaker

4) Manipulating phone controls can be done via the kit or the cellphone

5) I have found that the battery power has been quite reliable.

What's bad:

1) people on the other side of your conversation have great difficulty in hearing you clearly and without drop-outs/breaks in the signal. Even when you speak no more than two inches from the microphone. This makes for an extremely frustrating conversation when you are trying to focus on the road. i sometimes have to switch back to the handheld in order to finish my conversation. For this reason alone, i could never recommend this buy.

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I bought this for $20, which was a very reasonable price. I find that the speaker quality is O.K., and people sound a little tinny. Don't have the window down or you won't hear anything as it is not very loud. But it holds a charge for a long time.

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12 Volt Automatic Battery Float Charger

I have 3 of these and have worked well for many years. The oldest one I own is about 10 years old. Never had a dead battery on the harley. I recently purchased another one, that will be used on my diesel pickup with 2 batteries. Never had a issue with these floating chargers. I added some pictures what they look like packaged. I have used this on a gel cell battery and had no issues.

I have 4 of these and use them on boat, lawn tractor, and classic car batteries. Keeps the batteries full without overcharging. Never a dead battery which also extends their life. The price is right, although I got mine on special at Harbor Freight. Did have one go bad a few years ago, but at that price no big deal.

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It was exactly what I had ordered ,it works perfectly and the price was better than what I had expected.The shipping was fast and effecient.

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This small battery tender is just what i needed to keep on our lawn mowers and 4-wheeler. to keep the battery from dying.

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The box states "for wet cell and gel cell batteries"but when I read the instructions in the box it stated"Do not use on gel cell batteries"Typical China crap

Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback

• In-Dash AM/FM, CD, MP3 Receiver with Remote
• Single-line, multi-segmented LCD display with LED back light is 35% larger
• Power Output: Peak: 50 watts x 4 channels RMS: 14 watts x 4 channels
• Theft-deterrent, detachable face plate with anti-dust design
• Wireless remote control included

GREAT performance, a wide variety of features, sharp appearance, and easy installation are definitely high points for this unit!

I have been a professional in the automotive service business for over 40 years, and I just could not believe how GREAT this unit sounds. It puts out great high, midrange, and bass frequencies equally well. With its multiple equalizer and bass boost settings it provides incredibly rich, full range, quality sound at a price (about $60) that just seems impossible to beat.

Although you will need to read up on all of its various settings and adjustments to "dial in" exactly what you want in the way of your own particular musical experience, it'll be well worth your time investment. The aux input jack is another great feature that lets you update your vehicle to easily connect an iPod or any other sound device up to it using a standard headphone mini-plug. The remote control that is included is also a nice touch even if you don't use it much. Imagine having a picnic somewhere, or using it in your RV, with this stereo providing the musical entertainment, and being able to control it from the very compact and lightweight remote you can keep in a shirt pocket. How cool is that?

It has a large, clear, screen display and an attractive, high-end-looking removable faceplate that offers some theft prevention, or at least theft-deterrent qualities.

Installation is very simple, as it will fit into any single-DIN slot by itself, or into any double-DIN slot if you add a single-DIN-sized pocket or spacer. Since almost every vehicle sold in the US in the last 30 years (at least up until the latter 2000s) uses the DIN mounting standard, there are very few vehicles in which this unit won't fit easily. It comes with screws to mount it to most vehicle manufacturers'stock mounting brackets. But if your vehicle is missing those brackets it's still no problem because it also comes with its own very thin sheet metal "sleeve" that can mount generically and sturdily to almost any factory stock or aftermarket DIN-sized frame/faceplate components. You then simply slide the unit into that sleeve and add the trim plate that is also included to complete a custom-looking installation.

To make things really easy and provide for a clean, factory-looking wiring job, I would suggest also buying and using an aftermarket wiring harness adapter (like the Metra 70-1720 Radio Wiring Harness I used for my friend's '93 Honda Accord, which was available through Amazon.com for only $3.55 when I bought it). That way you can connect the new stereo's wiring harness to the adapter at any convenient location outside of the car (like on your workbench or kitchen table) and then simply plug the adapter harness connector into your vehicle's factory radio wiring harness connector just as though you were plugging a factory radio into it. This makes for a neat, incredibly simple, and professional installation at VERY little additional cost.

If you are buying this unit to replace another unit that was stolen from your vehicle, and the thieves damaged or removed the factory wiring harness connector plug and some of the factory wiring, you can also inexpensively bring your vehicle radio wiring back to "like-new" condition by getting a "reverse wiring adapter harness" (like the Metra 71-1720 Reverse Wiring Harness I also bought for my friend's '93 Honda Accord). You then wire this "reverse" harness to the wiring in your dash that the thieves cut/damaged. You will then have a factory-type connector again, into which you connect the adapter harness connector as described in the above paragraph. Again, a great professional installation job.

Overall, this unit from Amazon is an AMAZING value... Thanks Amazon!!!

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The only reason I replaced the factory radio was to have a line in port so I could listen to my ipod as I drive. This stereo is great for people like me. If you just casually listen to the radio and want to use the line in port now and again, this is a great option. There aren't a whole lot of other bells and whistles, but that saves me money in the end. I purchased a dash kit and wire harness from Amazon as well making the install really quick and painless.

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All i wanted was a pioneer head unit that had an AUX port so I could play songs from my iPod and i got this one & it's just what i needed. I love it!

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Everything is great but one thing bothered me, on the box it claims that it supports USB, but there is clearly no USB input on the device.

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Easy installation, low price, looks good, made my factory speakers come alive, and easy to use, it's awesome. I recomend this unit for anyone that needs a little something different, or needs to replace a non working stereo.

GPS Portable Travel USB Plug-in Rapid 12 Volt Car Charger

After breaking the power cord for my Magellan GPS, I looked around for a replacement. Magellan was ready to sell me a new one for $25. Same price for a generic one from an electronics store. Then I found another one here at Amazon for $12. And, finally, I came across this one for less than a dollar. The price disparity was so great that I was inclined to be suspicious of its quality, but for less than a dollar I was willing to risk it. It works just fine. As noted by another reviewer, the cord is just a little on the short side, but I have found it long enough to reach over the steering wheel from the cigarette lighter to the lower left corner of the windshield in my 2003 Toyota Rav-4. I've only needed to use it a single time since the purchase but so far, so good.

Original car charger was destroyed. Tried numerous usb adapters and chargers, all would power the unit but would not charge the internal battery. This charger/adapter did the trick. Although it doesn't have the feel of quality as the original (cord isn't rubberized or as long as the original) it is definitely worth the price. A+

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This device works like it is designed to, however the cord is the coiled type, and seems a little short. If you are needing to span a fairly long distance from the GPS unit to the cigarette lighter plug, then you may consider a non-coiled design.

I have a Jeep Cherokee, and the GPS is mounted on the front windshield. Not a great distance to the lighter socket, but it is a bit of a stretch with this coiled cable.

Otherwise this one works well, with a good solid connection on both ends, and an indicator (red) LED light tells you the plug is operating.

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We had left the original in a rental car and bought this as a replacement....it was actually a better cord than the original because the new cord coiled so there was not so much excess cord and it wasn't so stiff. Very happy, thanks.

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I've used it quite a few times over the past month and a half and have no complaints. At about $20 cheaper than the Magellan replacement charger I am very happy with this purchase.

Instapark PowerBox Mars100 Fold-n-Go Portable 100-Watt Solar-powered 12V Battery Charger with Power

Not at all what I expected, The USB port will not charge my IPAD, I have to plug it in to the DC port which means turning on the Fan to keep the charger cool which causes the battery to run down really quick and does not even fully charge my IPAD. I am really disappointed with this Charger. I think that they need to find a better battery charger. The Solar panel is great but needs more adapters.

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Power Acoustik PC1.0F 1.5 Farad Digital Power Capacitor

• Digital Power Capacitor
• 2 Dc
• Digital Display
• Brilliant Silver Aluminized
• Mounting Brackets

I just can't get over the capacitor trend. I thought 1 F was enough now they are making 50F caps that resemble car batteries. Do you need it well, maybe if you are seriously into car audio competition, but this 1.0 (actually the product that shipped was 1.5 Farads) cap is rated for amps to 1000W.

Why use a cap? A capacitor stores a tremendous amount of energy that can be delivered very quickly to your amplifier. Capacitors are also the opposite of inductors. A good example of inductors are LONG WIRES like the one that carries power from your car battery to your amplifier (and if you are a good installer you have a second wire that returns back to the negative battery terminal and don't use the chassis ground where you pick up noise from turn signals, etc into your audio system)

You see, when a loud "thump" comes down the audio signal cable to the amplifier, it may demand 100-200 amps of power from the battery + alternator for a fraction of a second and send that power into your subwoofer. If your power cable is inductive (a natural property of ALL cables, no matter how big or how fancy or how expensive), then it will resist a sudden change in current that is the DEFINITION of inductance. By placing a capacitor across the positive and negative terminals of the amplifier in very close physical proximity, it negates the effects of that wire that feeds power to your amp and makes for a more constant voltage. As a result, your bass is cleaner and more defined, your amp does not distort and damage your speakers, and yes, it is louder. Do you need 5, 10, or 50 Farads? No. 1-1.5 Farads is more than enough unless you are going for more than 1000 watts.

This unit also has a 3 digit LED display of the voltage (i.e. 13.8 ) in RED LEDs about 1/2 " tall and comes with some acrylic mounting brackets to hold it so you can read the voltage at your amplifier. If you see it bouncing around as your music plays, then you should use a larger capacitor.

Be aware that you can not just "plug it in" if you do so, the sudden inrush of power into the capacitor will damage it. Follow the instructions on the package to charge the capacitor with a light bulb in series for a few seconds until it reaches 13.8 VDC then remove the bulb. Also NEVER short circuit the capacitor as this can also damage the insides. Use a light bulb or the LED display to drain the power out of it. If you obey these rules, then sparks won't fly.

Finally, the LED display draws 50 mA ALL THE TIME, so in one day it draws 1.2 Amp-Hours from your car's battery if left sitting (there is no "power on" terminal for the display it is always on). In a month of sitting it will drain your car battery. You may wish to install a relay or battery switch to turn off your stereo (or just remove the fuse) when not using it at the airport parking lot so you can start your car when you get back.

All together I am impressed with this 1.5 Farad cap I received which is not the one shown in the picture. I am using it with a power inverter to produce 120 VAC at 1000 Watts and it works fine, but I have also used them in car stereo installs before when the customer wanted louder, tighter bass from their subwoofer package or was getting distortion or having their amp cut out when the bass was cranked up. The cap will fix the problem for you.

Enjoy in clean health and post some pictures of your install!

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using this on a 1000 watt kicker amp and it really helps out with the power. Has a digital read out screen in it so you know its doing its job. If your Amp is 1000 watt or less then this is perfect. And if you have a head/dome/gauge light dimming problem this is a great fix unless its your alternator or old battery. when I upgrade my amp and subs I will be getting a bigger power acoustik brand cap.

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It is pretty easy to measure how much energy is stored in a capacitior. Use the following equiation V=I*T/C. Since my PowerAcustik capacitor draws about .1A to run the display, all you need to do to check the capacitance is see how long it takes the voltage to drop once you disconnect it from the source of power. For example, in my case it took about 4 seconds for the voltage to drop from 13.5 down to 12.5. Rearranging the equation and solving for C....I come up with about .4F. Fortunaetly, .4F is still probably good enough to ride out one thump of the car stereo...so it propably doesn't matter at the end of the day...but I still want to get what I am paying for. F. H. (Rick) Smith

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The product in the picture is a 1.2, however the actual product has a red lable and is a 1.5. the posts are a bit hard to use dont overtighten them. i used a pack 8 ga ring connects (autozone) that i cut and opened to attach it to the posts and crimp my wires too. wiring this item is confusing... http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_capacitor_installation/car_audio_capacitor_installation.htm That helped a lot! i used a bolt for a rear seat belt to ground it under the back seat. good luck.

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great product , easy to install , very happy with the purchase , works great

JAEWONCNC IROAD IONE-900HD HD Video Car Digital DVR Recorder Black Box - 32GB

• 1CH DRIVING REORDER, 1280x720p HD, 30Frame, 130degree Angle, 0.5LUX
• MicroSD 2GB - 32GB, Overwriting Video out(NTSC) Video out port(2.5Pie)
• Quick Button (event/mute/format/auto parking), MIC, Speaker, Voice guidance
• Recording mode(Constant recording/Event (shock) recording/Manual recording/Automatic parking mode motion detection)
• GPS(separate purchase item) Recording vehicle speed and location information3-axis acceleration sensor(x,y,z)

Not as good as described, can hardly distinguish the car plate even during the day, not to mention in the night.

No/limited English version of manual, software available.

Really don't see the difference compared to those priced cheaper.

Powertraveller Startmonkey 200 Portable Jumpstarter

This is a really slick and neat device.

Very compact and easy to use and starts your car up no problem.

Don't leave home without it.

Can also be used to charge phones, tablets, and other devices.

Very handy for sure.

As stated I used it twice the first year dident have cause to use it till 2 years later . Well it was dead, could not recharge it. Oh yes, it's out of warranty . So for $100 , $50 per jump its expensive.

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I bought this about a year ago and have found so many uses outside of jumping another vehicle. I use it as a backup battery for several instruments in my work. Highly portable, lightweight, small and keeps most low amp instruments going for hours and/or charges the device battery. It is great if you're a motorcycle rider on long trips...it has saved me and my back country motor riders several times. You'll find many uses for this battery and it jump-starts vehicles!!

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This has been an amazing item. I don't have room for a big jumper unit in my car plus it will be loose in my trunk. This item has it's own case and it's able to jump mt battery that I have in my car. Its a must have for people that don't have jumper cables and need space in thee trunk for other things.

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Husky Liners Custom Fit Front and Second Seat Floor Liner Set for Select Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Si

the rear mat, even after being trimmed for the cup holder (per instructions) had the edge of the mat folded over (appx 2") when the rear seat is laid down/flat to create a load floor. not to cool & expecting the rear mat will permanently crease after time.

the best features received from the nubs locking the mat in place (no sliding), they look nice & I hope they dont curl

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3-in-1 Hand Pump Siphon Gas Oil Liquid Air

These guys (fix find) are crooks. They sent me a different (far lesser) product than which was shown on the image and do not respond to emails. Buy from someone else.

I purchased exactly the same one as the one shown here for transmission oil change, but decided to use it for motor oil change beforehand. Good thing I did, since it was extremely inefficient in pumping oil. Instruction says pump it 3~4x and let the gravity do the work but it doesn't trickle out for a second then nothing would come out (I kept the drain portion lower than the intake as instruction says). It appears the fittings and pump itself have air leaks since the fittings cannot be securely fastened/tightened to form air tight seal. I even used tapes to create better air seal, and still it took about 1.5hr of pumping to get 3 quart out... Good really vigorous shoulder exercise meanwhile~. Overall, I guess you get what you pay for.

I guess it might be ok for a small amount of liquid, but for anything more than a quart or so, this may not be a practical tool. Just wanting to let others know so that they know what this can be useful for.

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These pumps are terrible, the hoses are just friction fit and they leak air, the seals leak gasoline everywhere. The pump barely functions at all and is very poorly made.

I almost got stranded when I was relying on using this (brand new) pump to transfer fuel to my kicker tank this weekend when main motor blew.

Only liberal application of rescue tape and frantic pumping among three guys enabled this pump to transfer enough fuel for us to make it back.

Of note, the pump wouldnt pump at all if it was more than a few inches above the level of the fuel in the main tank.

Buy a different pump! Especially if you're relying on this as a emergency fuel transfer pump.

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I almost didn't buy this pump because it wasn't very well rated by Amazon buyers. But I had to try something and I'm glad I went with this pump. I just used it to remove the oil from my rider mower because I couldn't budge the drain plug. But this little pump worked beautifully for that purpose. Before I started, I read the directions. Instead of using both orange hoses, I used only one and trimmed off about 8 inches in which I placed the "dipstick hose" according to the directions and then attached the 8 inch orange hose to the top of the pump. I also trimmed the dipstick hose to about 12 inches. (I was thinking that maybe pumping the oil a shorter distance would help the pump work more efficiently. But now that I've done the job, I don't think trimming the hoses mattered.)I used the rest of that orange hose to attach it to the bottom of the pump. I let the mower run for about 3 minutes to heat up the oil, place the dipstick hose in the dipstick hole on the mower and the other orange hose went into a bottle on the ground to catch the old oil. I pumped it a few times and soon the oil was flowing out of the mower into the bottle! NO PROBLEMS!!! If you have to change your lawnmower oil, this is a good way to go.

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I gave this 3 stars because it will work well for some applications. I used it to pump gas and it got sticky and hard to pump. It appears that the lubricant doesn't stand up to gas very well even after just one use. The other reason I rated it low is due to how short the hoses are. I wanted it primarily to pump gas from the car so I wouldn't have to take the gas cans to the station to fill them. Almost all cars have the fuel filler opening in the side rear and the tanks are in the middle of vehicles so the hose provided is too short to reach fuel in the tank. Apparently wasn't designed, or maybe wasn't tested for this application. Appears it would work well if you don't want to pump from a vehicle or pump gas. I'll try to purchase a longer hose rather than return the item.

Whistler Pro-1600W 1,600 Watt Power Inverter

I have purchased many inverters for my service truck, RV, boat, and emergency home backup, and this is what I have learned...

Buying a large inverter is confusing. Most people want their inverter to run the "continuous" loads that they have, plus have enough surge power to start air conditioners, microwaves, sump pumps, etc. Seems simple enough, but when they purchase an inverter, usually it can't handle the startup surge they were hoping. Herein is the problem: most people don't understand "Surge Duration".

Most inverters can put out more than their rated "continuous" output for surge. But the question is: How long can the inverter provide that surge? The vast majority of consumer inverters can only provide surge for 2 seconds with most less than 1 second! This is totally inadequate for hard starting appliances. I have measured the surge on my 2 hp air compressor, and it lasted about 5 seconds before it settled out to its "continuous" wattage. My 1000 watt microwave settles down at about the 3 second mark.

So what to do? Always look for an inverter with a long surge duration. The bigger inverter companies sell them, but they are usually labeled "Industrial" or "Commercial", and are much more expensive.

Which brings me to the Whistler Pro Inverters. Whistler Pro's have something they call "Smart Surge Control" that provides the surge wattage for close to 10 seconds. That is the longest I have found of any low priced consumer based inverter. I gave several a shot, and they work as advertised! They have more than enough surge duration to start my hard starting appliances like A/C, microwave, air compressor, large power tools, sump pump, etc. My 3000 watt Whistler (5000 watt surge) can start my hard starting RV air conditioner with no problem while also running my microwave!

...So add up your continuous wattage needs. Then find the wattage of your most surge hungry appliance (here is a great chart w w w.g e n e r a t o r s a l e s.c o m/w a t t a g e-c a l c u l a t o r.a s p ) and size your inverter based on those calculations.

Example:

Rated running watts ("continuous") of my lights + fridge + sump pump = 1440 running watts

Largest Surge wattage appliance is my big sump pump = 2700 surge watts

Pick the inverter that is above both ratings, in this case I would get a Whistler Pro 1600. It is rated at 1600 watts running continuous, 3200 surge.

Remember: inverters require VERY HIGH current, so the 12v cables have to be VERY large to work correctly. For larger inverters (1500 watt+) the cables need to be LARGER than the cables you see on your car battery. Large cables are expensive, stiff and heavy, but are a MUST! Your inverter will NOT run correctly without them! Follow the cable sizing guides, and don't skimp or you will be disappointed with your inverter's performance! I cannot stress this enough. Also, keep the 12v connectors clean and tight for reliable power.

Lastly, let's talk about your batteries:

Home backup, off grid or RV (large) inverter use requires more than one deep cycle battery, usually many more. Check with an inverter pro to size your battery bank correctly BEFORE you purchase your inverter.

For those of you that are running an inverter in an idling single battery vehicle, the vehicle alternator makes your battery look bigger than it is. In my truck I have a 165 amp alternator with a 1600 watt continuous inverter. It works terrific with the engine idling. I just don't use the inverter with the engine off. The continuous large current draw on an ordinary car battery will shorten its life considerably if the engine is not running. I could install a battery isolator with a second battery, but if I leave the truck idling, that isn't necessary. Remember, BIG cables, TIGHT clean connectors!

I hope this helps you with your inverter buying quest... Good shopping ;-)

Added May 23 2013:

Just to clear up some confusion about using an inverter in a running vehicle:

If you draw more amps than the alternator can produce at idle, you will drain your battery. Once the battery voltage drops below about 10.5 volts, the inverter will shut itself down. Most alternators produce about 30%-40% of their output at idle. High output replacement alternators are readily available. Just Google "high output alternator". Be sure to increase the size of the alternator hot wire if necessary to support the higher amps of the replacement alternator...

I purchased this to run my appliances (fridge and freezer) in the case of power outages. Got heavy duty cable and battery clamps so can hook up to any available auto to power the unit. Tried on the chest freezer and the over/under fridge one at a time with no problems. Will only need to run for an hour every 5 or 6 to keep things cold enough to not spoil. Can also obviously run lights and other items as needed with this. Easy to store, easy to use, no need to store gas, no maintenance. There is always at least one car in my driveway too.

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One just can't beat the amount of wattage this item provides for the money. It seems a good quality product and simple to use. Works great, if properly set up. One thing I didn't see anybody mention is that this inverter is NOT supplied with the battery cables, which these things used to always include. As another reviewer recommended, get very heavy wiring/cables to connect this item to your vehicle because it will draw a lot of amperage when driven hard. I give this Whistler product 5 stars and two thumbs up.

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I just ordered this inverter because my 15 year old Whistler 1500 watt is going on the blink. If this one lasts have that long I will be totally happy. I think the trick to long life is mounting it horizontal and give it plenty of air space around it for cooling. I use it in my Locksmith van to run key machines, a Dremal and laptop. Not at the same time. I also don't let the inverter get stressed, I run the truck while in use. This puts less stress on the truck battery to. Past experience is why I am going with Whistler.

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Powers my 1/2 HP sump pump from a battery without breaking a sweat. The display shows 1440 watts when the pump is running which sounds too close to the max for comfort, but the fans don't even turn on -so it's very quiet -and the pump starts and runs fine (it was running about 40% on, 60% off after a heavy rain when I tested it).

Edit: (changing 5 stars to 4) Apparently something fishy is going on with the ground wire. I expected that if the ground terminal on the input side is properly grounded, then the outlets will have proper ground. Not so. My voltmeter measures zero volts between both ground & neutral, and ground & hot. My high efficiency gas water heater, which uses electricity only for electronics and exhaust fan, refuses to run with error code "wiring error: high resistance to earth ground".

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Pyramid RPR425 4 Gauge Power Wire 25 feet OFC (Clear Red)

• 4 Gauge Clear Red Power Wire 25 ft. OFC
• 61/0.25 x 7C,D. 9.0mm

This is the WORST power wire ever purchased. They claim it is 4 gauge, but in reality it is 8 gauge! it is all shielding and hardly any copper wiring. It is made from such thinly stranded wire that cutting the cable shield will surely cause you to cut into the wire, reducing the gauge even more. I have performed trunk battery installations in 8 other vehicles, all using 4 gauge wire. Using this wire the car will NOT START. For comparison, Stinger brand 4au wire is 3.0mm, Phoenix Gold's 4au wire is 2.5mm, this brand is 2.0mm. AGAIN THIS IS NOT 4au WIRE!!!! Don't be ripped off.

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I get it and just like the others IT'S NOT 4 GAUGE!! Same size as my 8 gauge that I was trying to replace.

The picture is completely different than the product received (packaging and proportions). How can they keep marketing this as 4 gauge? Are they counting the diameter of the insulation?? Not cool and must return it....

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this wire is not true 4 gauge. i would not recomend this for anything other than speaker wire

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This cable is not 4 Gauge as many have stated in previous reviews, I only bought it to see for myself because I really only needed 6-8 AWG cable anyway. Sure enough, this cable was alot smaller than the existing 4 AWG that I have. I can fit 2 of these cables into a 4 gauge ring terminal and crimp them together in 1 terminal. No way you can do that with REAL 4 gauge cable.

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This is really great pricing on 10-gauge primary...but, since they are marketing it as 4-gauge (I'd really like to know what 'gauge' they are using), this will burn your total rig down, if you actually use it as 4-AWG, without checking it first.

BUYER BEWARE...works for 8-10 AWG loads...but is NOT 4-AWG. (we will be clear about this...it is 8-AWG wire, that's the copper stuff, not 4-AWG).

UPG 85980/D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Battery (12V; 35 AH; UB12350)

This battery is my primary power source for a remote steel shed that contains all of my electric starting power tools and toys, five in all. The charge on all being maintained simultaneously by a 50 watt solar panel, a decent controller and this battery. I have no worries even after sitting for weeks in winter temps that all of my machines will start and that their batteries are maintained fresh. The primary battery also runs interior lighting, a CB radio, and my paging alarm system. This battery performs well at all temperatures, even well below zero. If I ever need to replace it, I'll happily buy another.

I have these and will be buying more. I have 30 of UB 12350 35 ah batteries that are almost 8 years old now. They run 2-1500 watt tru-sine inverters and are filled by 21 harbor freight 15 w panels, also 8 years old and 890 watt kyocera. With a 6+ year old HY energy HY400 12 volt wind turbine, known now as a Windmax HY400 5 blade. The Universal Battery brand is tough and easy to find. The Amorphous panels from H F are not the best but charge a hour before and hour after the Mono panels do and they do charge ( 1.39 amps) in a full moon!!! In full sun they still work well, 19 amps when they were new, 14.3 amps now after 8 years. New style HF (topray) panel seem better than the old ones I have.

Wanna save ? Use soft copper plumbing refrigeration tubing, type L to link your batteries. I have 3/8 OD inserted into 1/2 ID inserted into 7/8 OD soft copper pipe. Cut to length, bent to shape, hammered flat 2" of the ends and drilled 5/16 holes used stainless bolts and brass washers to bolt up. Slip 1 1/8" heater hose (black and red hose) over it to insulate "before" flattening ends cut 4 inches less than length you made. Handles 1500 amps easy, clean and saved me $400 bucks on cables for 30 batteries. Also made my 9'3" run to big 5000 watt HF inverter with it adding a 1/4" soft copper tube in the 3/8ths OD. I use it for 4 to 6 hrs a week of welding and cutting.

Suggestion? Shop Amazon suppliers for these. They will warranty them better than a local dealer, lesson learned on that one in my case.

****Helpful LEARNED facts: Never allow the voltage to drop to 10.7 volts, ever. That level is 80% D.O.D. (Depth of Discharge). When it drops to 11.4 you are at a safe but taxing 55% of D.O.D. and to make yours last as I have never let voltage get below 11.6 and you too may get 8 plus years out of your battery. I also hit mine with a 40 amp plug in battery charger 2 times a year till they get warm to stir them. I've owned Trojans, suretttes and Walmart (johnson controls) and NONE have the balls that 30 of these have (1050 hair frying amps) for my solar/wind home. Exide 6 voltreal good, Odyssey Deep cycle High $ but really good. The UB 35 amp So far, still kickin a$$. Your choice, I even have 6 of these grouped in 2 packs of 3 that for 4+ years have started my 1997 Ford diesel truck, cheaper than the batteries they told me I needed by $60.

I am shopping now for 30 more because I doubt they will make it through the winter in Idaho. But, I thought that last year too!

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Very nice heavy duty solar panel battery.

Sealed and solid so you can mount this any way you want.

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I have a Companion II Scooter it is about six years old and has been my passport to Freedom. When it died I had to call the VA (Dept of Veteran Affairs). About a month later I got a pair of batteries delivered and installed into my scooter. The batteries ended up being no good. Then I had to call the VA again. Two months later the VA authorized to have the key and accelerator assembly replaced. This didn't help as the problem was still the bad batteries. Then the on-board charger needed replacing. Still you can't charge bad batteries. The scooter has been down and unreliable since june 2011. By now it is time for me to take matters into my own hands, after all the entire scooter has just been rebuilt, and being an avid fan of Amazon I decided to buy a pair of batteries from ecom.Electronics after reading good reviews. They showed up lickity split, I installed them and my scooter is back on the road again. I have made two trips into town (about 3 miles round trip) for a total of six miles. I decided to charge these new batteries for the first time. Since then I have been to town three more times and the batteries according to my meter on the scooter is still in the green and going strong. So I am planning a fourth trip into town. These UPG D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Batteries are the best. I will definetly by-pass the VA next time and get my next pair of batteries from ecom.Electronics and avoid a seven month delay dealing with the VA. I highly recommend ecom.Electronics.

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I now have 4 of these hooked up to my 12 volt off grid solar power system. I use 2 30 Watt solar panels to charge them and run low wattage LED light and small 12 volt fans and also use to keep my power tools charged. I have not been disappointed.

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Associated Equipment 6031 6/12V 125 Amp Hand Held Analog Alternator/Battery Tester

I've found the ASO6031 to be an excellent well made product. It's analog meter is straight forward making it easy to see the testing at hand. It's simple, reliable and easy to use.

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Cobra CPI1575 3000w Car Power Inverter w/Remote Control

I use this in my "big" truck every day.

Does a great job just as expected!!

Would recommend this inverter to anyone who needs one!!

Received as expected. Quality is high. Works as described. Have no complaints or concerns, was able to mount it where I wanted and it does the job well.

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Way too much hassle trying to get to customer service with other item I bought. I have returned it and am awaiting for my money back.

I'll look at this in store as at this point ordering online is too risky.

I've been sold used stuff advertised as new. SHAME!

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I was looking for something that would run a 1400 watt coffee maker for the Motorhome as well as the 1000 watt microwave. The key for me was the remote switch so I can mount it out of the way. This works perfectly, not both appliances at the same time but each separately is no problem. Lots of battery (3 group 29 batteries) with huge 4 Awg wiring within 3 feet of each other. Figure 1400 watts is 140 amps so be prepared for this.

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I installed this inverter on my boat to run a few appliances so I don't have to run the generator. I tried it on the largest power consumer, the 900W microwave. Inverter shuts down (and yes, battery bank is fully charged to almost 14V and load test perfect). This IS NOT a 1500W inverter as described! Also, the low-voltage shutdown feature kicks in at 11.4V, WAY above the 10.0V listed in the manual! This is the cheapest inverter I've ever bought (regrettably). Will not buy a Cobra again. Over-rated, misleading specs. Junk