Q Industries HV18 Small Tire Air Compressor

I have only used this thing about three times in the few months I have had it. It has performed as well as expected. I take it with me in my motorcycle tank bag on longer trips, and having that extra security is great. I already have a battery tender connection hanging off my bike and that works great for this also. I think it is a smart buy for anyone in the market.

Now residing in Las Vegas, NV I always knew I should have one of these on hand when riding solo out of town, but kind of procrastinated for way too long. Sure enough, soon after receiving this unit and while on a ride, the need arose for inflating my rear tire after plugging a nail hole. This compressor kit is the bomb and worked exactly as described. In no time, I was back on the road and can now tell you from experience that you should NEVER ride without this kit. I highly recommend this product!!

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The compressor by Q-Industries is a great fit for my needs. It's compact so that it fits into my hard case saddle bags

to take on short or long riding trips. The case that comes with it stores all the connection options provided. Great product.

Every motorcyclist should have one of these if you doing any type of touring or long weekend rides.

A great deal at a great price from you guys at Amazon.

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This item performs well in The job for which it was designed.

Multi use compressor designed for all ATV's, UTV's, motorcycles, bicycles, and sports equipment.

This item was never designed to inflate car or truck tires. The advantage of this pump is in its portability. This fits well In my motorcycle tank bag because it's soo small. In my test it took 10 minutes to inflate my rear motorcycle tire from flat to 36psi. The small pressure gauge is perfect but it seems to read 2psi high...which is not a big deal for its portability. The multiple ways to connect to a power source is great. I am using my existing battery tender connection. I was not able to get the entire pump and accessories in the carry bag but once I shelved the connections I didn't need to bring with me I was able to get the rest in the bag. Before shedding connections, everything but the air hose fit in the bag.

This pump gets warm and I would only use it for 10-15 minutes at a time before letting it cool down.

If storage space is not an issue go with a bigger pump, this pump purposely trades power and run time for space.

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Only used this one time and was well satisfied . it was much better than the first air compressor I ordered. making the exchange's was simple thanks to Amazon return policy. they really want to help you receive a quality product.

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Peak PKC0TP 5 Million Candlepower Spotlight

So far i'm impressed with the spotlight, it works as described. It has the most perfect weight for carrying around, just light enough to not being annoying. I would say the only con to this product is the charge time, it's 24 hrs, right long wait for 40 minutes of use. But it's worth it in the long run when you need the spotlight. Also, it holds it's charge better than listed, the little light lasts almost 7-8 hrs solid on, and the spotlight itself lasts 35 minutes solid on till a dimmer view of the light. I would recommend to anyone looking for a spotlight you need on the boat (dc recharge), and for walking through the woods at night.

positive: great idea to put a 3-bulb LED light in addition to the powerful one. Also, the adjusting handle allows you to set down aimed at a specific angle.

negitive: 1)somewhat bulky, 2)NOT as powerful as my 2-million CP spot that I keep in my car and 3)batterie recharging time is 16-18 hrs-way too long!

Overall: it works fine but I wouldn't buy it again

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Bought two of these spotlights. One for me and one for my sister. Hers was a Christmas gift. She has a home surrounded by woods and was always hearing crazy things at night coming from the woods. Now with this spotlight, she can check it out and see what the heck it is!!! Mine is for the same thing. WE love it. Shines brightly. Get one!

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this is such a great light, super bright! I use it to walk my dogs. Only problem is that is does not last long, this is my third one and this one lasted the shortest time, three months. I charge it as directed. Such a shame because I really like this light, wish it would last longer.

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I was looking for a flashlight with a top handle and this one fit the bill. The price was right and I am basically very happy with what I received. I am disappointed with the fact that when you plug in the flashlight for charging, that there is no LED indicator for when the charging cycle is completed. The fact that it is all black and not gray and black as shown in the picture, is a very minor concern. I haven't used it very much but it appears to have a long range beam that reaches across my valley here in the mountains of North Carolina, appears to travel 150 yards on a clear night.

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12Ft Jumper Booster Cable Automotive Battery Emergency

Ok for small to medium cars with small to medium amperage batteries. I have three diesels and I don't use them as the cable/clamps aren't heavy enough to handle 1000 amp batteries, but for the toyota they work fine.

Husky Liners Classic Style Custom Fit Molded Front Floor Liner for Select Jeep Wrangler TJ Models (

Excellent color match, great fit, easy to remove for cleaning, holds lots of water, would purchase again and recommend highly

Bought a pair of these in 1998 when I bought my Jeep. Fifteen years later, they are still going strong. They do have a tendency to "float" a bit if you've got the top off and are driving at highway speeds, as air gets underneath them easily.

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These floor mats contain the mess, are very durable, and retain position in the vehicle.

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I have to say that this is the third vehicle that I have purchased Husky liners for. They do a great job of protecting the carpet under them as well as holding the dirt in with their high sides. I have never had a single complaint with any of their liners. Currently, I have the complete set for 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.

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3.5-inch Magnetic Portable Wireless Camera System Rechargeable Battery Built-in Monitor and Wireles

• 3.5" high resolution LCD, 2X size of traditional 2.5" LCD screen, w/ built-in rechargeable battery
• Monitor provides Image capture (JPG) and Video capture (AVI Video) in SD Card (Card not included)
• Single hand operation, quickly hitch up any trailer, camper, 4-channel view up to 4 cameras
• Color day & night vision camera with magnetic base mount to your tailgate
• New features - A/C adapter charge at home, sun-blocking, video TV output, USB PC connection

I have an F150 super-cab with a 6' bed. I cannot get the picture in the cab with the camera on the tailgate. That's with the truck off and no phone around. Even a few feet away the picture starts to give out. The unit does not match the picture on the box. There are sticker's changing the part number and company name on the box. The instructions are incomplete, including the part list and attaching the antenna. The box states that the camera range is 100 meters, but the instruction booklet states 50 meters. I bought direct from the 4UCam. This was a complete waste of $215.

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Over all I like it. when attaching it to the tail gate on my f-150 to see my hitch,its the best. when you go back towards the rear of my trailer 25 ft starstream its ok. when going behind the trailer thats when its little shady. over all the product is worth it.I would recomend this product. I was probally i was expecting more.

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A few parts were missing in the original order. Called customer service and they were shipped immediately. Works just fine for the way I planned to use it. Neat little item.

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For an inexpensive replacement for the back camera, I would recommend this to those interested in a compact camera with a low budget, i spent $400-$600 on other cameras which stayed with those vehicles (waste of money). So, this camera, with infared/night time ability and having a magnet and rechargable battery would be a nice addition to your vehicle, easy to set up and use for any vehicle requiring a back up camera for those hard to see hitch/trailers/5th wheels.

Schumacher PSJ-2212 DSR ProSeries 2200 Peak Amps Jump Starter and Portable Power Unit

Best in class--had a couple cars with shorts that needed lots of jumps and went through three other brands. Every one under $100 could not last or keep a charge long enough to work on demand.

The 2212 instantly started a dead battery on cold mornings. The 3 amp charger is much faster than cheapo models.

Basically it is a durable solid unit. You'll need to spend over $200 for a better jump starter. The long cables let me solidly place it while jumping, unlike the other boxes that barely reached.

Buy it & you will love the security of genuinely professional grade peace of mind.

Ill give you the good news first. This item will spin my 4.3 liter high-compression V8 like there's no tomorrow, and it will do it at least 5 times on one charge. It will hold a fresh charge for three months. It has a huge red digital readout that serves several purposes. It will let you know when you have a good connection to a car battery before you switch it on. It will let you know how much voltage it is providing, and it will tell you the charge state of its internal battery when it is in charge mode. There is also a warning if you cross up your leads. There is a cigarette lighter socket for 12V access.

Now for the bad news. First, you have to provide an extension cord, and, when you do, there's no place to store one of any length on the device. My advice is to buy the shortest single-socket 16AWG cord you can, and squeeze it onto one of the side hooks where the leads are stored. Otherwise expect to just leave the cord behind (probably the manufacturer's intent) or carry it separately. Second, while you can leave the charger plugged in full time without overcharging, there is a noisy fan that runs full time (and draws about 6 watts along with the display). Even if you charge it in your garage, you probably won't want to just plug it in and forget it for two years, because that fan will wear out sooner or later. At least it sounds like it will. (I wish they'd used a quieter fan of the type that comes on desktop computers.) Don't plan to store it in an unheated area in winter, because performance will suffer severely, although a sealed garage is probably warm enough in most climates. Finally, you can't use this thing as a charger to maintain a car's battery in the garage. It's not designed for that and won't allow it.

I'd like to make a couple of final points about battery-powered, jump-start devices in general. If your car's battery has failed catastrophically, meaning it's almost like a short circuit, you must disconnect one lead of the battery before using one of these. (Assuming your alternator is good, you can reconnect the battery once the car is running.) Otherwise, the bad battery will suck the charge out of the jump-starter. You may have encountered such situations with jumper cables, when you find you have to partially recharge the dead battery with a running car's alternator before you can start the car. This is the kind of thing that happens when you leave the lights on for a long time. It should not be the kind of thing that happens when you have tried to start the car and heard a clicking noise.

If your car's battery is dead because you've run it down while trying to start the car, you'll probably run the jump-starter down too. In fact, it will probably run down faster than your car's battery did, just because it's not as big. Don't blame the jump starter for either of these situations.

This jump-started does what it's supposed to do, and it is a good price. If you can live with the cord and the fan, and you don't ask it to perform miracles, you'll be happy with your purchase.

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If you buy this product, watch out for one very strange quirk: No matter how fully charged the battery is, the digital readout will ALWAYS say it is 10% charged when you plug it into a charger. The readout will slowly creep up towards 100% over a few hours. But this readout is false: It has no connection to the actual charge on the battery. To determine the actual charge on the battery, press the "%" button on the unit and it will tell you the actual percentage the item is charged.

The Schumacher customer service department doesn't know that this is how the product works, and they will tell you that the unit is broken if you ask about it. You'll then have to pay $35 to ship the unit back to them to get a new one (it's very heavy), and it will take several weeks, and the new one will seem broken, too. But it's not: It's just a strange quirk of the way these machines are designed. Trust me: This happened to me twice before I figured it out on my own.

UPDATE: I have changed my rating of this item from three stars to one star because after having the unit replaced twice for the reason above, the third unit I received just totally stopped working within about two months of it being sent to me. This time, the unit was really dead: It takes no charge no matter how long it is plugged in, and gives zero read out. Ironically, I couldn't get a replacement unit because the new replacement was no longer under warrantee: The clock on the one-year warrantee started ticking when I received the first unit, and it was just about elapsed when I received the third one. So I ended up spending a year dealing with the service department to "fix" units that weren't broken, and then at the end I received a unit that stopped working after about 2 months. I guess it just wan't meant to be. I hope others are luckier with this product than I was!

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I am on my fourth jumpstarer and after all the previous junk this is a keeper. At 22 ah it delivers enough cranking power for must vehicles, in a nutshell it is a self contained unit with trickle charger and voltmeter, the fan that cools the charger is a little bit loud and never shuts down even after full charge is reached don't know why. Finally I own a REAL jumpstarter.

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This box sells for $300+ on the tool trucks, and is a professional class jump starter. You can crank a turbo diesel that has two batteries with this bad boy and not even make it sweat. Im giving it 5 stars even though you will have to buy an extension cord to charge it(because the jumper does not come with one). Any one in the automotive industry needs one of these in their shop.

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250w Grid Tie Power Inverter Converter Solar 10.8v-30v DC 110v AC

After testing this device for two weeks, here's my take... I have it connected to my 12 volt / 305 watt solar array. It really cranks out the power! It's silent until the fans starts when it reaches 50 watts or so. I have it plugged into a Kill-A-Watt meter so I can see exactly how many watts and amps are being generated at all times. My electric meter goes to zero even with the refrigerator, desktop computer, HDTV and other small appliances running. This means that my solar panels are generating enough power to run everything in the house without using City Power. I have a Blue Line digital meter connected to my electric meter and it lets me know how much City Power is being used. The electric meter will zero out, but not spin backwards. This is fine with me since I can use the power that my solar panels are producing rather than constantly charging batteries that are never used since there has not been a power failure at my house since 2006. Back up power is fine, but you really want to use the power that your solar panels are generating NOW. Note: All of my solar panels combined are 305 watts and with full sunshine, the device runs until the electric meter goes to zero state and stays there until clouds pass by. It has never shown any sign of having a problem with more than 250 watts being connected to it. The fan cycles on and off but it's not overheating since the box itself is only warm.

Hey had my doubts, but this actually works... hook your solar panels to it, plug it into the electric socket, and your going..., i watched the electric meter actually stop for 2 hours.... in the heat of summer! Been using it every day now for 3 mths now. Only have 55 watts worth of solar panels...got to remember your refrigerator, and freezer only run intermittently,, so it takes fewer watts than you think to make a difference....

am hoping I can hook a small wind generator to it, though it says for solar power. so long as i dont go over 250 watts or 30volts, thinking it might work... and can get another one of these and plug in another outlet... might go for a 500 watt grid tie inverter one day, thought I would start small...!

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After reading up and watching videos on U-Tube, I decided to buy this product along with a kill-a-watt meter. Everything was just as is. Just plug in and start saving. I have 3 45 watt solar panels I bought from Harbor Freight, I have 4 marine deep cycle batteries hooked up. When running 12 volts to the grid tie inverter the output is only around 120 to 125 watts that you are putting back. When I wired the batteries in series and hooked up 24 volts to the grid tie inverter I was putting back 230 to 240 watts. Just make sure your wiring is correct. Don't want to blow the inverter up. Only wished I bought the 500 or 1000 watt instead because I intend on expanding and adding wind turbines to my setup. Recomend you go to Missouriwindandsolar.com They have great products at a reasonable price. That is where I intend to purchace my wind turbine from. Hopes this review helps. Tony from Indy.

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The unit works but it overheats and only does 120-130 watt if used with a 12 volt system, also doesnt work with my 36 volt solar pannel because it is only rated to 30 volt open circuit. it produces about 230 watt if used with a 24 volt battery pack or solar pannel under 30 volt open circuit.

Overal it is a good product but the problem that i had is with the Seller.

Super nice Guy, from China because his english was not really good, We exchanged a couple of emails because i wanted to return the item because was underperforming. Well this is not amazon, i got an RMa number and they promised me a refund but i had No label , i was supouse to go to the usps and pay to ship it back, insure the package because if it gets lot im out. They offered to pay for the label but wanted to refund me only 82 dollar from the 100 that i payed for the unit, also they were talking about restocking fee 20%.

Bottom line, the product works but will be recommended in a cool climate, with a 12v max solar pannel, do not try to use it with a 24 volt because it will not work properly. The 24 volt solar panel has a open circuit voltage sometimes higgher than 30 volt and this unit will stop and will not produce ant power.

Also verry important , this is not Amazon selling it , is a seller thru amazon and the price it is great but if it doesnt work it not worth the trouble to send it back.

In the end I have decided to keep it and try to use it as is or maybe sell it on ebay.

Great communication with the seller. Great Guy, just remember this is not as convinient as buying from amazon directly where you get return labels if the product is not right or functional .

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Just as described. Works great. I was skeptical about this when I first saw it, but doubts disappeared after use and testing. Using this to connect a 100 watt solar panel, and a 12 volt battery bank to the grid. Killawatt meter shows it's making almost 100 watts on a clear day connected to the PV panel. Slows down the meter on the house. Waiting for next power bill to see energy savings. The cheapest and easiest way to connect your solar panels to the grid.

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Cobra CPI 480 400-Watt 12-Volt DC to 120-Volt AC Power Inverter with 5-Volt USB Output

• 400 W Continuous Power Handling
• 5v USB output
• 2 Grounded AC Receptacles
• Thermal Shutdown and Reverse Polarity Protection

I just opened the package and haven't used this thing yet so I can't comment on functionality but I wanted to let others know that this unit DOES come with a cigarette lighter plug (as well as a set of alligator clips) that you can attach to the screw posts.

I wasted a couple bucks on a separate cigarette lighter plug when I ordered because the product information says nothing about coming with the cigarette lighter plug.

Oh There is also a sticker on the cigarette lighter cable warning not to draw more than 150 watts when using it plugged into a lighter socket (use the alligator clips or your own custom wires to connect straight to the battery for full power)

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The power inverter works great. I used it on a 5000 mile road trip powering a PS3 and iPhone and another cell phone along the way, in addition to other small electronics. To get the most power out of the unit, you need to hard wire it directly to the battery. I mounted it under the passenger seat and ran some 8 gauge wire. Very easy installation. I looked at several inverters before purchasing this one. The usb connection was what sold me on the unit. I now have an easy way to charge my iPhone without having to buy a car charger or taking up one of the regular power outlet slots. Well worth the money. The only thing to note for Amazon is that the product listing advertises that it comes with a carry case. It does not. No problem for me because I don't really care, but it may matter to you. I believe the CPI 475 does include the case.

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I has been on ever since I put it in my semi. I have a laptop, a printer, and four chargers for cordless devices hooked to it on a power strip. The fan will come on if I'm watching a movie on the laptop but that is the only time I have ever heard the fan come on. It is exposed to temps from below 0 to 80+ and hasn't complained yet.

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Power ratings are grossly over-stated. I have owned this product for about 1 year. It has worked great for powering my laptop while in the car. I have not been able to get it to supply power any greater than 100W without it shutting off however. With the inverter connected directly to clean battery terminals with the included battery clamps, vehicle running (14+ volts at clamps), I have unsuccessfully tried powering two different TV's rated at 140W. In both instances the inverter shut off when the TV's where powered on. I next tried turning on a 150W halogen flood lamp. The inverter shut down before the lamp lit. This inverter is rated at 400W RMS/800W peak. It should be able to supply these loads without any issues. Keep in mind I tried these loads with the inverter connected directly to my (dual) truck battery, engine running. The test where run on multiple occasions. There was no lack of supply current/voltage.

Upgraded from 1 to 3 stars: I have since "hardwired" the inverter to my vehicle battery with an Anderson Power Pole 50amp connector in between. With this configuration I have been able to get a full 400 watts realiabley from it. I have been running this setup for about 2 years now. I use it about an hour continous once a month.

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I just received my Cobra CPI 480 400-Watt unit today.

The lighter cable option allows taking this unit in a different vehicle. My unit came with both lighter plug and jumper cable type power connectors. The lighter plug has a 15A fuse in the tip, limiting output to a continuous 165W (hence the 150W mentioned in the manual). Higher power levels will require direct connection to the battery terminals, or the fuse will blow.

The lighter plug, as noted in other reviews has trouble staying electrically connected in my Cadillac Seville lighter socket, but doesn't fall out. The rear passenger lighter sockets have the same mechanical connection issue.

[The following comments were made from a unit sent back for repair. Addendum comments made against a new unit are at the bottom of this review, and new scope image replaces the old one in customer images.]

With the unit connected to a car battery with the engine running for high power checking, a Hoover 110V hand vacuum runs just fine. I grabbed a 500W halogen contractors light to see what happens on overload. The lamp starts to light and about 200mS later (~1/5 sec) the units starts shrieking and turns off output. [This behavior changed in the new unit (below) which now powers the 500W lamp for a minute] This unit does not recover from this condition automatically. The front panel switch must be turned off, then back on for the unit to recover. This also implies that any motor load with high startup currents has to be substantially started in 200mS or the overload condition will trip on this inverter. 200mS is short, most motor type equipment can take 500mS-1Second to start, which means many motor driven appliances may not work well with this inverter. Think about how long your lights "dim" when your freezer starts. If it's longer than the tiniest of "flickers", then it's probably longer than 200mS.

Since my use is to recharge two electric bike batteries from 120VAC and my cell phone from USB and each bike charger draws 170W peak @ 120VAC during the charge cycle (340W peak for two), this unit should meet my needs.

The battery direct connect cables are about 2.5 feet long and made of 12AWG wire. Something heavier (6 or 4AWG or two parallel sets of 10AWG) should get me from my battery under the hood past the firewall and into the car with little enough voltage drop to get that 400W capability without burning up 20A lighter fuses or having so much voltage drop due to wiring that the unit shuts off with a low voltage sensing error.

A nice addition is a contractors "pig tail" [8" extension cord and three plugs] to extend the 110V outlets for wall-wart type chargers. Target also has 8-inch "adapter cords" to extend the outlets if you have something physically large to plug-in (Amazon solution:Power Extension Cord, Perfect for Transformers, 1 ft). If I have a lot of wall-wart type chargers (up to 6). GE has a nice widely spaced 6-outlet solution meant to physically cover a wall outlet GE 50759 6-Grounded Outlet In-Wall Adapter, White. This plugs into the pig-tail which plugs into the inverter for running a pile of low power chargers (like cell phones, kids game-boys, camera battery, and a laptop).

I put the CPI480 on the bench to answer a few more basic questions about this unit. See my uploaded "Modified Sinewave" scope photo of CPI 480 output under "customer images".

First, when the power switch is first turned on, the fan runs for 14 seconds, then turns off. This concerned me after reading several reviews saying their fan stays off. [The new unit doesn't do this]

Will the 5V USB output stay on even when the switch is off? In fact the 5VDC output turns off with the front power switch as does the 110VAC. This unit draws no power when the front switch is off, so it doesn't need to be physically disconnected from the battery.

During startup (turn the front power switch on) at 13.5 VDC input with fan running, my unit draws 800mA (0.8A). After the fan turns off, my unit settles down to 650mA (0.65A) for "standby", not running anything. The box says

Directed Electronics 473V Viper 3-button Replacement Remote

An exact match to my original remote. I had this working within 2 minutes of opening the package by just following the included instructions. As long as you know where the valet switch is for your alarm system, setup is a breeze.

I purchased this Viper remote for my car as a replacement since the original remote failed after several years of use. A technician at an auto garage easily programmed the new one in a flash and I was on my way. It works great, first time each time to open and close the car doors, either at the vehicle or from a reasonable distance away. I'm totally pleased with this product and do not hesitate to enthusiastically recommend it.

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Received the DIR 473V 3-button remote over a week ago. Price was >30, DIR mfr wanted $69 for same. Installer store was twice as much. Was new, genuine product, in original bubble pack, and came with an extra silicone replaceable button pad and battery. This remote replaces the one I lost, and it has more range and signal strength than the older remote,even with a new battery. This is as good as it gets for my 5 year old Directed Electonics 350HV alarm. Accompaning instructions were confusing, so went to Best Buy mobile electronics guy who programmed it for free in 1 minute or less. If you have no experience with remote setup, do yourself a favor and go to an installer to have it programmed. Even if he charges you, it will be minimal, because it literally takes so little time (

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Kuryakyn 4218 Black L.E.D. Battery Gauge

I actually had to buy this twice. The first time I bought it the cover was kind of a snap-on ... and it snapped off one day while riding. Didn't realize it until I got home. It cost way less then and I wish I'd glued it down. It works very well and is visible in all light conditions. I think Kuryakyn bought out the original product to add to their line, so it went from $24 to $40. I managed to get it on Amazon for $30, so not entirely complaining.

It's compact (about an inch and half), has a self-stick foam bottom and works well on my basic black dash. I drilled a small hole for the wiring underneath.

Oh, yeah, I'd highly recommend this black one over the chrome if you don't want some shiny object reflecting the sun in your face. The point is to see the LEDs, right? Not be blinded by reflected light. I use it to make sure my accessories are not taking me out of the green zone.

item received as advertised and in a timely manner it looks and works great on my vt1100 honda shadow spirit.

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I've had one of these for a while; it is definitely readable during the day and at night. It's a good-looking unit, easy to hook up, and accurate.

Every bike should have at least one. As others have mentioned, this can help prevent or anticipate electrical issues on a bike -or confirm that everything is working as expected.

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This product was exactly as described, and the price was very reasonable. I am using it to not only monitor the battery, but the entire 12 volt electrical system. The different color LED's are easy to view and understand. And the blinking red LED's at the upper and lower voltage range, warn of an abnormal sustained condition.

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Got this to use on my 2007 GL1800 Goldwing. Works nice. Small in size with 3m tape for mounting. Easy to install. Accurate as checked with a digital multimeter.

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