Monday, October 20, 2014

R310 2.7-inch 140 degrees Dual Lens dash board camera car dvr black box video recorder + gps logger

R310 2.7-inch 140 degrees Dual Lens dash board camera car dvr black box video recorder + gps logger
  • Dual Lens,Front lens: 140 wide-degree,Back lens: 120 wide-degree
  • Video resolution 640*480 30fps
  • GPS Module,Gravity Sensor
  • Adjust the position of the lens: its front/back lens can be rotated for 270 degree to the front or back

After having HD 720P 2.5-inch LCD Monitor CAR Dash Dashboard CAMERA Cam VEHICLE VIDEO Accident RECORDER DVR Support SD/MMC Memory Card : Up to 64GB about a year, and caught some good videos, I decide to get more car DVR for all my cars. Found this one, but I can not find any video from anywhere, so I decide to take my chance getting one to see how good the video quality is.

The setup is easy, video is excellent comparing to my previous car DVR, the GPS sensor is very sensitive, GPS function is very useful when you reviewing the video, it tell you exactly where your car was at exact time, 6 minutes video clip took about 360 MB, you will need large micro SD card for it.

I only gave four star because of the User Manual is really really bad, so far I only test single lens mode at day time, I did not test the other lens and night time yet, I will update my review after I done those.

10-24-2012 updates

I just notice Amazon change the product I wrote review on to another one, Amazon keep the same title, the product review I wrote was a football shape, totally different one, I do not own the current one, I do not know anything about the current one.

01-13-2013 updates

just found Amazon change the product picture back to the one I own and I wrote the review.

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I picked it up from the post office Friday (it came with postage due?) I had a chance to skim through the booklet Friday night and then put it in the car Saturday before heading out on some errands. It went up very easily and staying put. My unit came up in English so there was no fumbling through another language to set it up. I was able to finish the set up without looking back at the manual. My only set up issue was confusing the front and back cameras. This was quickly noticed in the screen when everyting was upside down and quickly fixed.

After a lot of driving on Saturday I finally had a chance to pull the SD card and watch some of the video on Sunday. The required video player isn't the best but it works fine. It provides options to view either camera by itself or both at the same time. It lets you switch between MPH and KPH. It let's you turn on or off the mapping feature. Most importantly though it lets you save the file to your computer so that you can use it with other programs if you decide you want to and can use the AVI format it's in.

My experience was that the video was good. Not good enough to read road signs or liscense plate numbers, but otherwise clear. It is important to keep your windshield clean or glare will affect the image. I thought the rear-facing camera provided a good image as well. I'd prefer a camera with a zoom lens to provide a better view out of the rear window as opposed to inside the car, but it's still a good image. I haven't played with the volume a lot, but my first few attempts had very low audio.

The GPS and Google map feature worked very well. It provided accurate location and speed information. I can't imagine needing more mapping information than it provides. If you intend to use this as evidence in case of an accident, keep in mind that if you use the GPS feature it will capture your speed. As long as you're not speeding at the time of the accident the video will help you. If you like to speed though you might want to think about not capturing the GPS information.

It looks like it creates a fairly large file size. I'm using a 32GB class 6 card. The video recording smoothly and without any choppiness. It's very easy to start a new file while driving to make it easier to identify important files you wish to keep and to reduce file size. As long as you lock important video files before it over-rights them a 32GB card should cover a lot of driving.

The only thing that bothers me a little is that I drive more than one vehicle. If the camera is installed nicely with the wires run out of the way and out of site it's not quick or easy to switch it from one vehicle to another. But then again, at this price it's probably cheaper to buy a second kit than to try to track down a second GPS and Power cord that could be left in the second vehicle.

Overall, after one weekend with the product I'm very happy with what the product does and how it does it for the money.

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You're not going to find a better dashboard camera for this price anywhere. The picture quality is excellent, similar to the video posted in the other review. I am amazed at the features packed into this product, particularly considering the price: dual lens camera, gps tracking and g-force sensor. The application used to view back the videos is easy to use and links to google maps to sync the video to your location. The rear-facing lens has some kind of light sensors, or something, that provide a night-vision effect for the video inside the vehicle.

My only two minor cons on this product are: First, as others have noted, the instruction manual is obviously translated from Chinese so it takes a little bit of effort to figure out what some of the instructions mean. Not a big deal, just requires a little playing around with it and you can figure it out. Second, getting the micro SD card out could be easier; it basically requires a pair of tweezers. But, even considering these two minor issues I would still give this 5 stars based on all of the features you get for this great price.

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I narrowed my car cam to 3 choices available on amazon. I purchased this first because it was the cheapest with the most features. I liked that it had dual (front and rear) cameras, GPS speed and location tracking, G-force sensors, automatic on-off, and built-in screen for real-time monitoring or reviewing previous recordings. After using this for 3 days, here is what I found out:

Pros:

1. Suction cup works in freezing temperatures. Just make sure it's clean before installing.

2. Once set up, car cam is easy to use. If plugged into the car accessory outlet, it can automatically turn itself on and off when the car turns on and off.

3. Video is as clear as a Non-HD camera will give you. Because it gives a nice Wide-field view, it will not allow details such as license plate numbers.

4. After formatting a micro-SD card, the unit will auto copy the required JPlayer onto the card. After inserting into your computer, double click the JPlayer.exe file on the card (or copy it to your desktop) It works on my Win7 computer. Use of the JPlayer is mostly intuitive.

5. The unit is smaller than I expected (similar size to a toilet paper roll).

6. Sound is as clear as I expected considering background radio and road noises.

7. Can record Front or Rear Only, or both at the same time. Recording can be turned on/off manually if needed.

8. GPS (when it works) gives helpful info about speed, location and tracking on a mini Google map in the player.

9. G-Sensor is interesting but not that helpful unless in a crash or high speed turns, etc.

10. Built-in monitor screen is needed for setup, but I prefer it off during use so not to distract when driving. This could be helpful to review a recording if needed on site of an accident. I prefer to view on the computer.

Cons:

1. User Manual is difficult to understand. You need to read the entire 7 pages before attempting to use this item.

2. Unit is made in China, but comes in Russian as default language. Following manual will allow you to press the appropriate buttons blindly until the language is changed to english. Then all menu items will be obvious.

3. Screen default is to time-out around 10 seconds. This makes it difficult to play with when new. You can change this in the menu to stay on. After you know how to work the unit, you can change it back to screen saver.

4. GPS features give very helpful information such as location, speed, and tracking on a map. But it takes up to 30 seconds to work, or sometimes not at all (at night for me). The speed is about 5 seconds delayed from what the video is showing, so it is not exactly real-time.

5. JPlayer but could be designed better. The "Large size display" button makes it 50% larger for me, not full screen as I would expect. This may also depend upon your monitor screen resolution.

6. JPlayer shows a map of a chinese city as default if your GPS did not work during the video recording.

7. Time zone is incorrect, no option to change it.

8. My video played well, but takes a long time (~30sec) to manually jump to another file on the card. I hope this is because I did not use the recommended class 6 card speed. I ordered a new ($23) 32gb class 10 card to hopefully fix this.

9. Four LED Infrared lighting for the rear camera is focused into a narrow spot in the center, about 1/10 of screen area. This allows a night view inside the car, but could be much better if spread out more (poor design).

Overall I like this and plan to purchase another one for my other car. I give it 5 stars for overall value, minus 1 star for poor manual and requiring a special JPlayer to view videos.

3/21/2013 Update

Using a 32gb class 10 card made all the difference. No more delays jumping from one video to another during viewing.

I forgot to mention that you can export the video and snap a photo, but it takes a long time for the video and does not show extra features like GPS or speed info.

This is a good little camera for the price, but I have had the GPS go out on me and I agree with everyone else about the instructions being ridiculously bad.

I would buy it again for the camera alone. The GPS function shouldn't be counted on.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

Glove Box Car Jump-Starter

Glove Box Car Jump-StarterIf you have read the other reviews, you know that there is some debate over whether this works or not. Having tested this product, I will say that almost everyone is right on both sides of this debate. This is because there is confusion about what this product actually is and what it actually does. It is probably improperly described as "jump start" device. When you hook jumpers to your car from another car or from a portable jumper, electricity is sent to both the discharged battery and the engine. When the electricity goes to the engine, it allows it to start by sparking the gasoline. This product does not do that and is not designed to do that. So, technically, you cannot jump start your car with this. However, this does not mean that it will not help start your car if your battery is dead. This is because this is actually a battery charger. When you hook up Mighty Jump to your lighter, it is supposed to start recharging your battery. The electricity it is sending through the circuits to your battery is not enough at any moment to start your engine directly, but it is charging your battery. After 10-15 minutes, your battery may very well have enough current to start your engine. So, technically, it is correct to say that this will not work to jump start your engine. It could though recharge your battery, and this could very well get your engine to start.

This will only work though if your battery is capable of holding a charge or being recharged. If it is old and needs replacing, this product will do nothing for you. On the other hand, if you leave your lights on for a few hours and your car won't start, this could very well be enough to help you get it started.

Do you I recommend this? Only if you have a good battery and you can get this at a good price.

Do I recommend that you buy a more expensive portable jump starter instead? From my experience, they are not very reliable either. They are essentially just rechargeable batteries, probably very similar to your car battery. That means they will wear out relatively quickly. For the price, you could probably just replace your car battery. For that reason, the Mighty Jump at a smaller price point is very tempting.

In general, having a set of jumper cables would be your most reliable option particularly if you live in an urban setting with a lot of people around. If you are out in the middle of nowhere regularly, you might want to invest in something more versatile (and more expensive).

If you can get this at a good price, it would be a good option for just running down your battery from leaving your lights on. If you suspect that your battery is bad or is getting old, this will do nothing under those circumstances.

Sabre Rattler and G. Mahler (commentator on Aquabusa Jib's review) comments are the most informational and accurate.

For any jump starter to work (including the Mighty Jump) the following conditions must be present:

1. The battery in the jump starter must be in good condition and kept charged. This is needed to charge up the car battery.

2. The accessory (lighter) socket must be in the "ON" position and the connection is good all the way to the car battery.

3. The car battery must be capable of retaining the charge from the jump starter. That is it must not be too old or incapable of holding a charge.

4. All devices using battery power (eg Head lights, rear window heaters, radio, cabin lights etc) should be switched off so as not to drain the limited battery power available.

5. Wait for the car battery to be recharged sufficiently to provide the cold cranking amperage that Aquabusa Jib mentioned in his review to start the car. This may take between 1 to 10 minutes depending on the battery power in the jump starter and how discharged the car battery is.

6. The car should start now (unless the starter motor on the car is dead!). Do not switch off the car engine during the first 15 minutes of driving to allow the car generator to at least partially recharge the car battery.

Remember to recharge the jump starter battery after use so it is ready for the next emergency. It can be achieved by leaving the jump starter connected for about 15 to 20 minutes while you are driving. It is good practice to recharge the jump starter battery at least every 3 4 months. All rechargeable batteries deteriorate over time and need to be replaced after a few years. It is time to replace when it will not hold a charge for at least a few days when not in use.

Jump starters do work if used correctly.

Hope this helps some people.

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This product works fine. People need to READ the instructions and do as directed. I noticed many people have commented that they only wait 5 minutes for their battery to recharge. The directions clearly state to wait 10 to 15 minutes. Also, be sure your ignition switch is turned to the 'Accessory On' position. Otherwise, no electricity can flow to the battery. Do NOT leave the Mighty Jump in a car when the outside temperature plumets below zero, or it will lose its charge too. Bring it inside to keep it warm. Another tip. If your battey is old or not holding a charge properly, it's time to get a NEW BATTERY. It's not Mighty Jump's problem. PLEASE READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Don't be so quick to blame Mighty Jump. 99% of the time it is the owner's fault, not the product.

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Do NOT waste your money!!! I bought 3, one for me, one for my mom and the other for my sister. My mom had to use hers, it didn't work; I bought mine and it didn't work! THIS IS JUNK JUNK JUNK!!!

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While driving home my battery light came on. I was able to get the car home. I turned the car off than tried to restart the car and nothing happen. when I told my roommate what happen she gave me the mighty Jump to try and jump start the car to go get a new battery. I had the might jump connected for 5 min and the car started right back up. I turned the car off and than back on but sadly it died again. I had a bad alternator. The main point of the store is that it charged my battery up enough to get it started. Which means that the product does work.

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Sanyo 4900/RL 2000/RL 4920/5300/7200/RL 7300/7300/RL 2500/5400/VM 4500/5500/MM 5600/MM 7400/8100/PM

Sanyo 4900/RL 2000/RL 4920/5300/7200/RL 7300/7300/RL 2500/5400/VM 4500/5500/MM 5600/MM 7400/8100/PM 8200 Rapid Car Battery Charger & Cigarette Lighter AdapterI ordered 2 car chargers for our Sprint phones to enable convenient charging during road trips. Our order came in ahead of time and the product works flawlessly. Jimmie M.

Duracell 813-1500-07 1,500 Watt DC to AC Power Inverter

Duracell 813-1500-07 1,500 Watt DC to AC Power InverterThe Durucell Inverter 1500 watt works just great. I had no problems at all. I saw in reviews that some people had the inverter begin to smoke as soon as they hooked it up. That's what happens when you don't hook possitive terminals to possitive and negative to negative. You need to be real careful and double check before you hook up and turn on. Plus don't use any cables that are smaller than the ones provided. I add a 40 amp fuse link to the possitive cable just to be on the safe side. This will avoid any possible electrical fire.

Purchased this to replace on I already had installed.

It is a great value for the money. It was about half as much as any other comparable brand and type. I got it installed and it's working great.

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This is a great product produces enough energy to power

tools and small appliances. I love the fact that it only

requires one set of wires that are included, You cant beat that.

Only improvement needed are one or two more outlets.

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Item works as advertised.

I powered a microwave and coffee maker at the same time with no problem or the fans coming on.

You have to follow the instructions and use 4gauge wiring no more than 5 feet long(jumper or welding cables work great). You also have to use some kind of fuse as close to the battery as practical (you can use an inline 100amp from a car stereo shop) and ground the unit with 8 gauge wire from its chassis to that of your RV, car or boat..if you don't, you risk frying the unit. I read those reviews about smoke pouring out and think that a $1.50 fuse could have saved $170 worth of clean, noise free power.People, read the manual!!!

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During hurricane Irene, there were widespread power outages and it was nearly impossible to get any sort of portable generator on Long Island. Instead, I ordered a Duracell inverter and purchased a pair of deep-cycle marine batteries to use as a power source. It was sort of amazing to see the delivery truck show up the next day, even with the streets in my town cluttered with downed trees and power lines major credit to Amazon and their shipper for getting me this thing in under 24 hours.

I used the inverter to power my (oil-fired) hot water heater as well as some lights and a microwave oven (not all at once, of course). There's quite a bit of energy in those marine batteries, and I was able to get about five hot showers out of my water heater with a single battery charge. When the battery ran down, I connected it to my car via jumper cables and recharged it. It was a lot of work, but our power was out for a week, and this at least gave us hot water and some lighting until I could find a suitable generator.

Through the ordeal, the Duracell inverter worked perfectly no complaints whatsoever. It handled the surge current required by my hot water heater when it started, and never even became hot to the touch. I don't think the internal fans ever even snapped on. Otherwise, the rest of the construction quality is very good, and it was easy to setup. You do need to supply your own connecting wire I made mine using an old set of jumper cables. If you need more power, there's even a 3000 watt version of this same inverter.

Highly recommended, especially at this price.

Kicker 09ZCK8 Z-Series 8AWG Amplifier Kit with 2-Channel Interconnects ROHS Compliant

Kicker 09ZCK8 Z-Series 8AWG Amplifier Kit with 2-Channel Interconnects ROHS Compliant
  • Complete kits with Direct-Control components
  • Comes with Signal cables and 16 AWG Super Twist Speaker Wire
  • Included are Power Cable, Ground Cable, Fuse Holder, System Fuses and more

I went to Best Buy to purchase this kit, it was priced at $100. Using my iPhone I scanned the barcode and found it on Amazon for almost half the price. Needless to say I was very pleased.

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I've actually never used Kicker amps or subs, but these wiring kits sure are impressive. Kicker gives you everything you need, and they don't skimp on quality. Along with that, they even give you speaker wire, which probably isn't in every amp kit out there.

If you're setting up a new amp, regardless of the brand, pick this. It worked great on my Alpine equipment last time, and this time it worked great on my Sony amp.

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Good product and price arrived on time came with everything I needed to hook up my two channel amp would recommend

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The amp kit works great with the kicker dc122 subs and Kicker dx3002 amp. Only thing is it didn't come with some type of cable or part something RCA I think. Other wise just works great

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The product is worth the money, its wiring so there is not a whole lot to review about, but what i can say is it looks cool next to my battery :P (fuse.) Dont buy the boss "8 gauge" kit.

AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 MHz 6 Channel and Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button L

AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 MHz 6 Channel and Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button LCD Transmitter - C3-RS915LCD
  • Alarm With Remote Car Starter
  • 915 MHz 6 Channel And Two Way FM/FM Paging Remote 5 Button LCD Transmitter
  • Five Button XT-915LCD 915MHz Two-Way LCD Transmitter
  • XT-915s 915MHz Extended Range Remote Transmitter
  • Spread Spectrum Encoder

I ordered this AutoPage Alarm with Remote Car Starter 915 from DiscountsJungle in late 2010. It was installed by a local installer in St. Louis. Fine installation. Strange remote. The remote resets its time every time it is turned back on (it turns itself off to save power). The remote supposedly can be programmed to stay on I have not been able to make that work. On the other hand the remote is very power hungry and if on all the time needs recharging often. Once off, the remote must be slapped against something (hand/leg) to activate a motion sensor and the lock button must be pressed to turn back on. This is not documented in the owners manual. When the remote is turned off you will not be notified if the alarm goes off. So much for a 2-way remote. I wish I had my Audiovox alarm back.

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like the system works great. but my remote restarted all the time. so i bought a new remote and the same thing happened and the new remote quit working all together.

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Good product that works well. Protects my car and starts it everytime I have used it. It is powerful enough where I can start my car in my bedroom and it will turn on in the driveway, but I am not sure that there is a 1 mile range as when I am further away from my car it is not in range to start. The LCD screen is convenient and lets me know that my car is started but the instructions to check the temp and set timer, etc are a little tough and you have to cycle through buttons alot. I had to get this device professionally installed which made it a bit more expensive, but overall it was still a lot cheaper than buying a device off of a chain store and having them install it. I would probably buy this product again if I needed something similar, but would more likely lean towards the starters that work from smart-hones and ipods.

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well i can't honestly tell you how the product is, considering the remote wasnt working when i recieved it from phimart. if your thinking of purchasing this alarm then thats good but if its being purchased thru phimart..please think about it, very bad company, customer service is non existent, once they have your money your relationship is over with them. they dont answer phone calls or anything. so again..be careful who you deal with!!

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This is a comparison review of the DEI Viper 5704V, the AutoPage CS3-RS915 LCD, and the CodeAlarm ca6551sst. I also have a DEI Viper 5901aka 5702V (the previous version of the 5704), and an AutoPage RS855 LCD.

---Background---

I have always done and prefer to do all my own installs. Not only is it something that I have the skills for and I enjoy doing, but I don't like other people disrespecting my property. Nobody respects anything that's not theirs, and I like to ensure everything is done to perfection without ruining anything. If you are technical and have patience, these systems are not difficult to install by any means. It's just a matter of knowing a little bit about electricity (12 Volts DC), locating the wires in your car that you need to tap onto, knowing how to carefully remove the panels in your car without breaking anything, and using the proper test tools, connectors, and wire wrap to make a very clean install without even cutting wires or drilling holes.

---Preface---

After purchasing a third car, needing to upgrade the systems in my current two cars, and researching the current selection of alarms, I decided to try each of the Directed Electronics Viper 5704, the Audiovox CodeAlarm ca6551sst, and the AutoPage CS3-RS915-LCD. They are all in the same class of 2-way paging alarms with remote start, and use spread spectrum technology to communicate between the main unit and the key fob. For those of you that don't know, this technology has been around for a while, and simply means that the communications can occur on multiple frequencies. This is good in case there is interference on one frequency, the transmissions can potentially get through to the receiver on another frequency.

Besides having long range 2-way and spread spectrum technology, the other things that are important to me when selecting a security system:

*Rechargeable remote I hated having to keep a stash of AAA batteries around for my previous security systems.

*Good manufacturer reputation I've had good luck with my AutoPage system, and I know that Audiovox has been around for a while. I gave DEI a shot again just based on their name. I have used a lot of their accessories in the past (shock sensors, motion sensor, power door lock actuators, etc.) and have had good luck. DEI is the largest car security system manufacturer out there. DEI was founded by Darrell Issa, who is currently a congressman with a new worth of approximately $½ billion. One big problem I have with DEI is that they are very partner focused, and don't warranty their systems if they aren't installed by an authorized DEI dealer. This also means if you lose the (very un-detailed) install/wiring guide that the system comes with, you're not going to just be able to download it from their web site. So, make sure you take photos of it/make copies before you lose or destroy it. AutoPage and Audiovox both make their install guides available for download on their web sites, and I suggest you review those as well as the user's manual entirely before deciding on a system to purchase since they will give you a lot of information as to the functionality.

*Lots of customization options one important thing for me is to be able to disable the arm and disarm chirps. Since the remotes for 2-way security systems such as these beep/vibrate to confirm that you've successfully armed/disarmed the systems, why would you want your car's siren or horn to chirp as well, unless you're trying to show off? I like to be stealth! The arm/disarm confirmation chirps can be enabled and disabled through the customization programming that's described in the install manual of all of these alarms.

*Two car functionality All these systems support 2 cars, with varying difficulty of switching the remote from one car to the other.

*Vibrating remote Being in a noisy place can easily drown out the high pitched sounds that the key fob makes when your alarm goes off.

---The Reviews---

I installed the DEI Viper 5901 in my older car several years ago. I purchased the 5901 and a competitive AutoPage alarm that came with a color OLED display at the same time. I decided to send the AutoPage alarm back and keep the 5901 in that car due to it having better range when comparing side by side, and the AutoPage's fob's color OLED display being impossible to see in sunlight. Had I have known the problems I was going to run into with DEI's junk 5901, I would have returned them both and purchased the AutoPage system with the non-color LCD display and with the spread spectrum technology. (Spread spectrum allows for communicating over multiple frequencies to get around interference.)

Going back to my DEI Viper 5901, it has a major flaw where once every 2-3 months it will take 100's of tries of hitting the unlock button to disarm the system and unlock the car. I usually will end up having to use my key to get into my car, setting off the alarm along with making everyone around look and/or waking up all the neighbors, and quickly reaching under the dash and pulling the system's wire to the horn/power (whichever I could get to first). Pulling the power and resetting the system will fix the problem temporarily. The Viper 5901 would also frequently have a long delay before actually arming/locking and disarming/unlocking after hitting a button on the fob. Furthermore, sometimes pushing the buttons on the fob would have no effect at all, not even a confirmation beep like the fob would normally emit when pushing a button. I've read some other reviewers complain about this as well. I also have a couple other gripes with it, one being that the car finder will simply lay on the horn solid for several seconds, rather than a series of short beeps (like the CodeAlarm and the AutoPage systems will do). The way the 5901 and now the new 5704 just slams the horn solid for several seconds is a great way of getting people near your car pissed off and getting everyone to stare at you looking for your car. Maybe if you're the type to always pay attention to where you park or live in a small village somewhere and don't ever travel to a shopping mall this won't be a problem for you. Like many people out there though I have a very busy lifestyle with a lot of ADD and distractions, so I need to have a good functioning car finder! Second, even though you would have the system set to not chirp when arming/disarming, if the battery in the fob was low, it would chirp the horn for a long duration after about a 5-10 seconds from disarming the system. This was very frustrating at night when trying to wake everyone up, including the neighbors. The fob beeps when the battery is low anyhow, so why does it need to chirp your horn in addition? Also, if by design you're going to make the system chirp the horn when the battery in your fob is low, why have it chirp when you're going to the car???? It should chirp when you're leaving your car because that's when you're most likely going to go inside somewhere that you can charge it! There's also no option to disable this. Lastly, they decided it would be smart to integrate the shock sensor into the unit on the 5901. Ridiculous! This all just goes to show how little common sense the engineers who designed this thing have.

I called DEI to mention these problems, and some cocky kid answered the phone that had no interest in my comments. They did verify that the car finder and fob battery low chirp issues I mentioned above had not been corrected, and I verified this after receiving the new Viper 5704V and testing it.

After receiving each system, I first hooked them up on the bench to test. The first test was the power draw when armed and not alarming. This is important if you're going to let your car sit armed for an extended duration, like at an airport parking lot. The Viper and the CodeAlarm each drew ~40ma when armed, and the AutoPage ~24ma. Next was the range test. With the antennas all near each other, the range was almost identical when walking around my city neighborhood. Of course, it was no where near a mile that all the manufacturers claimed more like 1200 feet down to the end of my street. Sometimes the CodeAlarm would work where the Viper wouldn't, and vice versa. I'm sure the FCC has a transmit power limit that the manufacturers must abide by. Expect around 1000-1500 feet at the most. If you really want to get notified, you can always get a prepaid SIM card and a 12v GSM alarm from eBay so you can get a text message on your cell phone. I will tell you I can park my car half way out in the parking lot of a typical WalMart or grocery store, and be able to communicate with my car half way into the store. Range is very dependant on obstructions.

One thing to note is that these systems are not capable of full duplex communications between the system and the fob, meaning that if the system is transmitting to the fob, the system will not receive any button pushes on your fob. This is relevant in a couple scenarios. First, if your car is alarming, expect it to take up to 15 seconds of you standing there pushing the button on your fob for your system to stop alarming. This is because your system will be transmitting to alert your remote that there it is in alarm. The manufactures may have designed in periodic brief pauses in the transmission to allow for a signal from the remote to get through, and if you're lucky to press the button at just the right time, you might get your system to stop alarming sooner. In my tests, I was able to stop the AutoPage from alarming the soonest. This also applies to remote start. After your system starts your car, it will be transmitting to confirm that your car has started. You'll have to wait up to 15 seconds to be able to disarm your alarm and unlock your doors after using remote start. If I'm in a safe area, I'll usually disarm the system before activating remote start.

Another thing to note with the fob communications is that for all of these systems it may take up to 10 seconds or so for your fob to be notified of your security system going off. The fobs from all manufacturers work similar to cell phones to conserve the battery life they only turn the receiver on every so many seconds. So, if your security system happens to be triggered right after your fob went out of listening mode, you may have lost valuable time to nab the perpetrator who broke into or crashed into your car. From my tests, the AutoPage had the slowest frequency of checks and took the longest to be notified of an alarm condition.

Each system has a "warn away" function that relies on the dual stage shock sensor they come with. When a lighter touch on your vehicle is detected, the siren/horn chirps quickly. I find that the "warn away" is pretty much useless, and is frequently set off by loud motorcycles driving by. The warn-away feature is complicated by the fact that the shock sensors that these systems come with only have a single adjustment, rather than a separate adjustment for each stage. So, you can't customize your sensitivity for full alarm vs. warn away and you may end up with lots of warn away pages/beeps if you like your shock sensor sensitive. You might be better off either not using the warn-away, or purchasing a separate shock sensor (they are cheap) just for the warn away function to be adjustable. In my case I installed a front and rear shock sensor in my daily driver for better coverage of my car. In my car that I installed the AutoPage system in, I had to rig the warn-away wire over to the full alarm input to get better sensitivity. I also had to use a DEI504D shock sensor with the AutoPage system due to the bug mentioned below and the fact that it has better sensitivity than the AutoPage OEM shock sensor.

--Pros and Cons of the Systems--

First, I'm very jaded against DEI with the bad experience I had with my 5901. Furthermore, the issues I had with the battery low warning chirping your horn/siren when you go to your car, and the car finder have been carried over to the 5704V. The other disaster with the 5901 was that the shock sensor was integrated into the 5901, which limited your installation locations. Thankfully, due to enough complaints, DEI did not carry this dumb idea over to the 5704. The only thing that was nice about having the integrated shock sensor was that you could adjust the sensitivity from your remote, vs. having to potentially pull apart interior panels to adjust your shock sensor. If these companies could come up with a standard to be able to adjust the shock sensor sensitivity from the system itself rather than the shock sensor, that would be great!

The DEI 5704 has the most fine tuning options of any of the systems, as well as programmable output wires. The vast majority of people will not need to make use of these, and furthermore, you need to purchase a DEI Bitwriter to program many of those options. They could have just put a USB or serial port on the main system, but DEI wants to sell you an additional piece of hardware. Some of the Bitwriter options include remote start run time by the minute, smart start temperature, and siren duration by the seconds. You can also customize the key fob icon for each of the Aux outputs to Trunk, Window, and Sunroof with a Bitwriter. For me, I would rather not have the above problems, not have to buy a Bitwriter, and slightly less customization capabilities.

In regards to the key fobs, the fob for the 5704 is the same as the one used with my older 5901. One complaint I had with that was that the rubber cover over the USB charging port only lasted a few months before disintegrating. Of all three of the fobs, none have an extremely noticeable vibration capability. During an alarm, the CodeAlarm and the Viper had the most noticeable vibrator, with the AutoPage being slightly less. I can tell you from the Viper that I've had mixed results with the vibrator alerting me. The problem is that none of the fobs actually vibrate and sound at the same time. Rather they sound, then vibrate briefly, then sound again. The piezzo buzzer on the AutoPage fob, however, is at least twice as loud as the one on both the Viper and the CodeAlarm. In fact, I find myself having to use the AutoPage's fob while it's in my pocket sine it's so piercingly loud.

The Viper 5704 and the AutoPage CS3-RS915LCD both have mini USB connectors on the key fobs. The CodeAlarm has the more modern style, micro USB charging connector. If you're an iPhone user, you're going to have to have multiple chargers in either scenario. If you're an Android user, you'll be happy with the CodeAlarm's fob since it's nice to have one universal charger that will work for your phone and your key fob, not to mention there will certainly be lots of your friends and coworkers that will have a micro-USB charger lying around if needed. The fobs that come with the AutoPage and the CodeAlarm both have painted fronts, and expect them to wear quickly. The plating on the CodeAlarm and AutoPage's fobs have both disintegrated pretty well over several months. I wish they would just leave the paint off and leave them rubberized black plastic. The silver paint on my Viper fob is half gone exposing an ugly greenish plastic underneath. Finally, I found with all the fobs, that it's very easy to accidentally hit one of the super large lock/unlock buttons when they're moving around in your pocket. One thing with the AutoPage, if you hit the lock button while the system is already armed, it triggers the car finder and will beep your horn annoying. With the CodeAlarm, you have to hit a side button to trigger the car finder, which is difficult to do by accident. If you manage to hold down the unlock button, that ends up being a trunk release, if you have that functionality in your vehicle.

The fob for the AutoPage is almost identical to the CodeAlarm (they both must be using the same manufacturer for the remotes), but the navigation is completely different. Getting to 2-car mode with the CodeAlarm is much easier just press the F button, then lock and unlock together. With the AutoPage, you have to go through the menu, which can be tricky (though it's at least a menu vs. having to memorize some random key sequences). For the Viper, you have to hold down the F button as well to change to car 2. I like how you can also customize the color on the Viper's and the AutoPage's fob's backlights. As far as battery life goes, you should get at the very minimum around 5 weeks or more per charge on any of the fobs depending on usage.

From experience with the key fobs, the plastic LCD display covers get scratched and blurred very quickly from being in your pocket, bag, etc with other keys and items. At the same time you get one of these systems, get some good quality screen protectors with STRONG adhesive so they don't peel up. When you get the systems, they come with a cheap plastic sticky protector on the fob's display. Peel that off and keep it to use as a template to cut screen protectors. Put it on top of a screen protector, and trace around it with a fine tip marker (I use the fine tip Sharpies). Cut out inside the line you drew. It's not going to be perfect, but it's better than eventually having a blurry and scratched display. Oh, and make sure you clean the grease, etc. off your fob's display with rubbing alcohol before applying the screen protector.

For the remote start functionality, they all behave pretty similarly, though I've only tested the CodeAlarm in practice. The only two difference I see are that first, you have more one more option with the AutoPage to avoid accidental starts. With all of them, you can at the very least set them so you need to hit the start button twice within a few seconds. Second, with both the AutoPage and Viper, you can have temperature controlled starts, with the AutoPage able to be set at 0 degrees F, and 15 degrees F, and Viper only 0 degrees, but the Viper customizable to 10 degree F increments if you also have a Bitwriter. The Viper can also start your car at a high temperature for cooling, where the AutoPage only has a low temperature. The viper might be helpful for you if you happened to need to leave a pet in the car in a hot climate. For me, I would never use temperature controller start, and I would carefully consider whether or not you would use it before making a decision based on this.

So far, I've had no major issues with the remote start functionality of the ca6551sst. I tested it in combination with an iDatalink transponder bypass, as well as a DEI PKALL, but it took many, many tries to get the PKALL programmed, so I didn't trust it. With both bypasses I had to increase the crank time since they're slow to send the code, but the ca6551sst let me easily adjust that. And that leads me to one more difference in the remote start the Viper and the AutoPage have several more options for crank time than the CodeAlarm, but again that hasn't posed an issue for me with the CodeAlarm.

As far as the alarm functionality goes, the CodeAlarm has an enormous win over the Viper and AutoPage, and that is that if you use the horn for your alarm, when your alarm is triggered it will optionally (by default) hold on your horn with random brief pauses! This definitely is an attention getter wow! Personally, I don't hook up the included sirens, I only use the horn since I don't like to drill a hole through the car's firewall to run a wire for the siren. Sometimes you can find an unused wire in your car to use for the siren, or just be able to slip a wire through an existing hole through the firewall.

As with my Viper, when disarming the CodeAlarm I've found that once or twice a week it will take 1-2 button pushes to disarm the security system, where each time I'm standing within a few feet of the vehicle. Fortunately it hasn't been the 100's of times it would take with the Viper.

One other issue I have with the CodeAlarm is that there is a "ground while armed" wire on the CodeAlarm that I use for a secondary warning LED that I mounted on the dash of my vehicle. Unfortunately, it's also on during remote start even when the system is disarmed. Because of this, it stays on until I put my key in the ignition, turn it to on, and press the brake to release the system's control over the starter. This means I'm going to have to get a relay that will cut off ground to the LED during remote start. The Viper on the other hand has 4 programmable outputs that you can set either to validity, link to arm, link to disarm, link to arm/disarm, or remote start only. They're all controllable from the fob. It's nice that they have these built in, but you'll need a Bitwriter to program and fob icon and the latch time away from the default of 30 seconds if you're planning on using them for window rollup and/or sunroof closure. The AutoPage has 3 programmable outputs, and you can program the timer from 1 second to 2 minutes without any sort of add-on. For the CodeAlarm you'll need an external timer relay.

The AutoPage is the only one of the three that doesn't have warning LEDs on the antenna, and comes with an external LED. This is important to me since the antenna can draw attention to the antenna's location. If someone is smart enough, they could break into your car and if they rip off the antenna quick enough, you would never get a page. On the other hand though, not having LEDs integrated into the antenna could be a drawback for the install since then you have to find a place to mount your LED, and potentially have to drill a hole somewhere. For me, I purchased a small black plastic project box, drill a hole in it, mounted the LED in, and mounted the box in the car using double sided 3m sticky mounting squares found at Walmart.

One other note is that the CodeAlarm has no car temperature check functionality, whereas both the Viper and CodeAlarm do. Also, as alluded to above, both the AutoPage and the Viper have extra programmable outputs if you want them to close your windows, sunroof, etc. The CodeAlarm only has one programmable output, though on the Viper and AutoPage, those outputs have various limited functionality. I suggest downloading the manuals for more info.

In regards to support, I did contact DEI three times twice by phone, and once by email. I definitely have to give them credit as they answered me each time in a timely fashion by phone and email. I tried calling AutoPage, and was not able to get through on their consumer phone support number. I also tried emailing AutoPage, and I never received a reply. I did not try contacting CodeAlarm's support.

In summary, I think any of these can be winners depending on your requirements, likes, and dislikes. The AutoPage has everything the CodeAlarm has and then some, except for the random horn honk feature when alarming. The big thing that I really like about the CodeAlarm is definitely the random horn honks that would really get people's attention in a parking lot full of cars where most people have learned to tune out car alarm honking. However, the AutoPage does have a slightly better fob with a more powerful vibrator and much louder sound which is really important to me. I also like how the AutoPage will let you change the fob's background color whereas the CodeAlarm will not, not that this should be a deciding factor. I would only go with the Viper if for some reason I didn't mind purchasing a Bitwriter, needed an extreme customization option, or the high temp auto start capability. Personally, my favorite is the CodeAlarm.

Lastly, it should be mentioned that all three have the ability to link to optional cellular based add-ons that you pay subscription fees for so you can get alarm notifications, start your car, unlock your doors, etc. from a smart phone. AutoPage calls their's C3. DEI/Viper calls theirs SmartStart (not good reviews here on Amazon), and CodeAlarm (Audiovox) calls their add-on 220Carlink. The DEI/Viper and the AutoPage both have GPS tracking available. The subscription fees vary, so do some homework.

---Major Bug with AutoPage System Received---

Finally, I must mention that the AutoPage systems apparently have a manufacturing bug at this time. I purchased two from different resellers, and they both had this bug. The majority of the time, triggering the warn-away stage on the shock sensor will subsequently trip the 2nd stage/full alarm for the majority of the time. Other times it behaves normally for a while until the unit is power cycled. Or, if the unit is power cycle, it will start misbehaving again. Sometimes when the 1st stage is tripped, the LED's for both stages go into a frenzy for a minute or so, though the alarm never gets triggered. When I remove the blue wire from the shock sensor harness (the 2nd stage trigger), the 2nd stage doesn't get triggered. When I have the system set in shock sensor test mode, it behaves fine. It also works fine when paired with a DEI 504d shock sensor. So, the problem appears to be a combination of the main unit and the shock sensor. This problem could go unnoticed since unless you are paying close attention, the only symptom one would see, depending on how and what you were doing you set your shock sensor's sensitivity, is that occasionally it will either take much less of a hit to set the system off (if you set the shock sensor sensitivity when it was behaving normal), or it will take a much harder hit to set the system off (if you set the shock sensor when it was acting up). Personally, I hate the warn away feature since it's an annoyance, and I always pull the warn away wire out of the shock sensor's harness (the green wire in this case), so it's not a big deal. It's still a bug though that makes me doubt AutoPage's quality control.

If anyone else out there reads this review that has one of these system, please test your shock sensor out over a few days time and leave a comment here letting us know if you're experiencing the same issue. You will see this issue as it will be impossible to just trigger the warn-away feature of the shock sensor. With a light hit, the green LED will light first, followed by another blink of the green LED, then the red LED.

Midland 75-822 40 Channel CB-Way Radio

Midland 75-822 40 Channel CB-Way Radio
  • Portable CB radio with 40 CB channels, 10 NOAA channels, and 4 Watts of output power
  • Power with six AA batteries or included cigarette lighter adapter for mobile use
  • Instant access to NOAA Radio, channels 9 and 19; Dual Watch monitors channel 9 and additional channel
  • ANL (automatic noise limiter) and squelch control for improving reception and eliminating noise
  • One-year manufacturer's warranty

I couldn't be much happier with this unit. Where it really shines is in battery life. I've used this in various 4x4 competitions and my teammates use some much larger, clunky handhelds that require 10 batteries and eat them up quick (several sets in a weekend). I use 6 nicads in my midland unit and they last and last.

Its a pretty decent mobile unit too with the adapter. With an external antenna the range is tremendously improved. My only real complaint is that I wish that there was a way to lock the backlighting on when using the car adapter this would make it easier to use at night.

Buy Midland 75-822 40 Channel CB-Way Radio Now

Works very well and a great value for the purchase price. The fact that this radio can be a handheld or a mobile radio and that it comes with a 12-volt cigarette lighter plug, a PL-259 external antenna connector, a portable antenna, a battery box for using six "AA' batteries, and an AC adapter made the system very versatile. The NOAA weather band capabilities only added to this versatility My only complaint is that the radio could use more volume output as it is sometimes hard to hear when used in a vehicle.

Read Best Reviews of Midland 75-822 40 Channel CB-Way Radio Here

I purchased this CB radio at a local electronics store for $. It comes with an adapter to plug into your vehicle. The adapter also has a hookup for an external antenna. You can use the unit as a hand held with the battery packs. The radio comes with two battery holders. One for disposable batteries, another for rechargeable. The rechargeable battery holder has an AC adapter included. It comes with a steel belt clip. Though, be careful it can easily scratch your belt.

The radio isn't very loud, even with the sound at max level. The only time I have any issues hearing it is when I have a window cracked. It does come with a jack for headphones or an external speaker. This Midland model also does not have an ANL (Automatic Noise Limiter), and does receive interference from time to time.

The range is to be expected for a hand held radio. Using it with the rubber antenna inside of your vehicle you can expect 1/4 3/4 mile range depending on the time of day and terrain. You get better range outside of your vehicle. Excellent for use on ATVs. If you plan to use this radio in your vehicle, it would be wise to purchase an antenna. I purchased a magnetic antenna for portability:

Want Midland 75-822 40 Channel CB-Way Radio Discount?

The Midland 75-822 is a neat little device, it comes with everything for both HT & mobile use except, a hand microphone, mobile antenna & batteries. External hand microphone, external antenna, & both rechargeable & alkaline cells are each purchased separately. Rechargeable & alkaline cell battery cases, plus cigar lighter power cable with an external antenna adapter are included (Type BNC & SO239/PL259 HF antenna connector) They really thought of almost everything in this package. The one drawback I found was the build was cheap. One of the screws came from the factory cross threaded into the bottom of the unit. The screw was crooked and caused difficulty, impairing the battery pack's ability to slide on and off the radio. There was evidence that the internal wires were pinched causing case/frame misalignment during assembly and when examined the internal frame was slightly bent. As a result someone had forced the screw into the slot and stripped all of the threads on both surfaces. The radio is still usable after clearing the pinched wires except the threads are damaged and the screw may come loose (only use & time will tell). I don't think I should have to repair a radio's defects brand new from the factory, and I feel it's just another example of the cheap, inferior quality of Chinese gear pouring across borders everywhere. Also want to state two (2) radios were purchased. Be aware when you purchase an inferior Chinese product, you might be stuck with the Status Quo. Amateur radio & GMRS/FRS gear is slightly more expensive in most cases but, in this case would have been a better purchase as it is engineered to higher quality standards. Decided to purchase two Yaesu HT's to replace them. These Midland radios are still as new in their boxes sitting on the shelf. They will likely play an emergency backup role to the new Yaesu radios. Caveat Emptor! (Let the Buyer Beware)

The Midland 75-822 would have received 5 stars had they both been 100%. However, sometimes Chinese gear is sub standard so, in this case it receives 3 stars (because it's just ok under the circumstances). IF there is any change I will update this review appropriately.

I hope this saves somebody a headache (check the build very carefully prior to posting your review). I hope Midland and Amazon are listening.

Thank you for reading

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I purchased this item to use on trail runs that I do with other 4X4 owners. When standing outside the vehicle and using the hand held setup I got a range of about a mile and a half. The primary way that I use this radio is with a 3' FireStik mounted to a cross member on my roof rack. This set up puts the antenna right in the middle of the roof of my SUV and makes for a great ground plane. I then run 18' of coax along the roof rack, through the rear window and under the floor mats to the front of the cabin. I check the antenna tuning each time I set it up and I get over 5 miles range in mountainous terrain and over 10 miles in open country.

I like this radio because it fits my needs. I want to be able to take it down when I am not on the trails or traveling in remote areas, but I want it to be quick and easy to set up when I do want to use it. I am sure I can get better features and longer range with a permanent setup and a "big box" radio, but I am completely satisfied with this product. It is versatile and easy to use once you familiarize yourself with the controls and their locations.