AmazonBasics 2-Port USB Car Charger with 2.1 Amp Output (Black)

• Note: Please consult your product's user guide to determine compatibility with your device.

Smart phones and tablets have two charging modes: USB and AC. The mode the phone uses depends on what it thinks is charging it. If it thinks it is connected to a dumb charger it will go into AC mode and ask for as much current as it needs. If it thinks it is connected to a computer it goes into USB mode and asks for 500 mA because that is what the USB bus on most computers is capable of providing. Because of this, USB charge mode charges much more slowly than AC mode and on some devices that need a large amount of current (like iPads) USB mode might not charge your device at all (the device will still be receiving charge, just not enough, so it will lose battery, just at a slower pace).

When I hooked my phone into this charger it went into USB charge mode (500 mA) even though the charger is rated at 2.1 Amps (it is 2 Amps max shared between the two ports but I have not checked to see if that means 1 Amp per port, or if only one port is connected that single port can use the full 2 Amps). The way that your phone determines which mode to enter depends on if the data pins of the USB port are shorted together or not; if they are shorted (the data pins are the center pins of the 4 pin USB connector) it will enter AC mode, otherwise it thinks it is a computer port and will enter USB mode. On this charger the pins are not shorted. I have found this to be the case with the overwhelming majority of chargers I have experimented with. They are rated for 1 Amp or more but consistently put my phone into USB mode. I assume this is because you can buy regular USB connectors in bulk much more cheaply than you can buy a properly wired AC charging USB connector. So the ability to put out more than 500 mA is there, your phone just will never ask for more.

It is easy enough to fix the charger so that it will enter AC mode if you know how to solder. You just unscrew the power end of the charger where the fuse is, then use a flat head screw driver to pop the casing open down the seam. Once you do this you are left with the circuit board that the USB connectors are attached to. Solder the center pins together on each USB port (it's a somewhat tight fit soldering the port on the side where the LED is connected but completely doable) and then just pop it all back together. If you are careful in taking it apart you won't damage the casing at all. After doing this my phone and all other device I have tried report that they are in AC mode.

I have tried charging an iPad with this charger (both by itself and with another device connected) and in both cases it reports that it is "Not Charging". This leads me to believe that it is a max of 1 Amp on each port (the iPad needs 2.1 Amps, at least when the screen is on). If you put the iPad to sleep it charges fine, with or without another device connected on the other port. And again, when an iPad or iPhone says that it is not charging, it is still "charging" just not fast enough to meet the needs of the device so the battery will still get drained.

I hope this helps anyone who has had problems with the charger or is considering buying it. I think it works perfectly fine (then again I was irritated with it until I modded it). It is really difficult to tell if one of these chargers is wired for AC mode until you get your hands on it and try it out. And if you have a device that doesn't check the data pins and kick itself into USB mode you should get the full current of the charger without modding it. It is technically the phone that is limiting the current being delivered not the charger.

Update:

Wow, they raised the price on this charger to $20. It was $10 when I got it. I wouldn't pay $20 for it. Buy a mini or a micro charger that sits flush with your dash (or close to it). This charger is pretty big. Or get a charger that can do a dedicated 2 Amps on one of the ports. I'd say it is worth it for $10 but not much more.

Buy AmazonBasics 2-Port USB Car Charger with 2.1 Amp Output (Black) Now

I've been using a now unavailable Kensington PowerBolt as my car charger, mainly for my iPhone 4, but occasionally to reanimate my iPad 2. A single USB socket is fine for commuting, but on long car trips when my car is filled with children and gadgets, a double socket makes for a lot less futzing.

I tested this by charging my iPhone 4 while in use, while simultaneously charging a Kindle Fire and it seems to work fine. On my 40 minute commute, I can add about 20% to the charge status of the Kindle while topping of the iPhone, all without any overheating or fuses popping. A couple years ago, I went through many chargers trying to find one that could reliably power an active iPhone, so I'm glad that cool running chargers have become so inexpensive even while powering two devices.

Devices I've tested and found to work:

iPhone 4

iPhone 4S

iPod Touch 3rd Generation

Kindle Fire

Kodak Playful pocket video camera

Sony Bloggie Touch camera (Needs a USB extension cable or it blocks the other charging port.)

Remington hair clipper

Jabra Extreme Bluetooth headset

Devices I've tested which didn't work:

HP Touchpad

Materials are pretty cheap looking, and the device is much, much larger than the PowerBolt; this makes it easier to insert and remove but I'd have been happier with something compact as the large size makes it easy to knock it out of kilter and stop charging which you might not notice while concentrating on driving. This can be really annoying. So not a perfect charger by any means, but a useful budget model.

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I have been using it since last two weeks now. This is simply awesome product.

I have used "Griffin Powerjolt Dual Universal USB Micro" before and AmazonBasic is much better than Griffin for following reason

1) Design: Griffin is so small that it gets stuck in the car charger. Amazon basic is perfect size .. neither too small nor too big (it looks huge in pics but actually is small)

2) Charging time: This is why you buy a car charger ... Amazonbasic is 2.1 amp vs griffin which is 1 amp... Amazonbasic charger charges phone twice as fast griffin. I use iphone 4 and it gets fully charged (from 10% battery) while i m listening to music in an hr

3) Quality: Griffin use to get very hot (and even my phone use to get hot) after 1 hr of charging ... amazon car charger is of much better quality ... I have used it all day and neither charger nor phones get hot

Overall I would highly recommend this product if u have a iphone (or any smart phone). Whether you are charging one device or two devices simultaneously it charges faster than any other product in market

UPDATE: Aug 28: Its been 10 months and this product is awesome... Actually I have noticed that my iPhone changes faster in car compared to even wall socket.

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I am trying to get a 2.1 Amp (or atleast 1 Amp) car charger for my HTC Vivid and HP Touchpad (CM7). These devices consume lot of battery when using gps in car. I had lot of hope on the amazon basics car charger. However, both my devices get only 500 mA from these chargers (which is not sufficient for GPS usage). The devices recognize the chargers as USB port and hence only 500 mA. I have performed amperage analysis on both Vivid and Touchpad using currentwidget for android. See customer images.

01/02/2011 Update:

Well, few people have suggested me about "data pin shorting protocol" for phone to differentiate between real usb port and charger's usb port. I would like to question the rationale behind ME doing it instead of AMAZON (or whoever the manufacturer really is). My wall chargers already have these data pins shorted. They charge every device I throw at them including iPhone. So why can't amazon manufacture them with data pins shorted initially.

Also I would not recommend end user meddling with power electronics. I value my phone and tablet more than a $10 (now $20!!) car charger. No thanks. Its simply not worth the hassle when its time to claim warranty.

A few other reviews are correct, this unit does ** NOT ** provide anywhere near two amps of charging current.

When charging an Android phone (HTC Rezound) the phone indicates the charging source is USB because of the low current (probably ~ 500 mA). If the charger was providing anything over one amp, the phone would indicate the charging source is AC.

The charger stays completely cool which also indicates it is not providing any amount of current flow or regulation.

One star for deceptive product description.

Cadence Fda0+4k 0+4 Gauge Dual Amplifier Installation Kit

• Nickel Plated For Corrosion Resistance
• High Current Competition Class Dual Amp Kit
• 3000 Watt System Capable
• Designed To Enable Peak Performance
• 100% Copper Rca Interconnect

Ok, I shopped around online for about a month looking for a dual amp wiring kit. While I am not a certified car audio installer, from my study and being a cable man I have learned about gauge quality, size, standards, and signal flow. With that aside I was confused as to rather or not I'd get a good quality zero gauge cable kit or if it would/wouldn't be AWG (American standard gauge or whatever.) So I searched out youtube videos of this Cadence Cable compared to others out there. After all the searching I settled on this Kit and I tell you what!!!! This cable is thick(0Guage.) They don't give you more isolation to make the cable LOOK-LIKE its bigger than it is. IT IS! And it has more than enough flex for running the cable around obstacles.

Oh, don't be fooled like I was by the picture. These distribution blocks are VERY WELL constructed as well. The only thing I'd think is not right is that I was assuming by what I have researched that a zero gauge wire should be fused with more than 150A fuse more like 250A or 300A...but as I said I'm no expert.

All in all if you are on a budget, have a 3000 watt< system, and want to get it right the first time, don't worry so much about AWG and those $100,$200+ BIG NAME kits and get this one or the $89 kit that has a digital volt display and gold plated connections. Good luck on your install (make'em roll there windows up lol)

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These are true gauge sizes... Actually, the 1/0 is a little bigger than spec. Only issue with the kit is the distrbution block for the ground (1 into 4) is of no use to this kit as the terminals are 4 & 8 awg. Not a big deal. Non fused distribution blocks are a dime a dozen. Even with this small issue I would rate this product 6 ★ if I could. It's a little pricey but worth every penny... And still cheap considering the power wire alone would cost more than this kit from a dealer. This kit will definately power your 5000 w and under system.

On a side note, I would also recommend using a different remote wire as this one is very slight and could easily break. Still 100 percent satisfied.

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I'll start off with two statements about this kit:

1. You ARE getting the advertised wire gauges.

2. The 0ga power and ground wires are copper clad aluminum.

The distribution blocks and fuse blocks included with the kit are very high quality, as is the battery terminal.

All in all, I'd buy this kit again.

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This was my first purchase of a cadence product and let me tell u this is a top quality wireing kit everything and more tham expected was included, aTop notch kit if i would reccomend this kit to anyone :-D

Great set. Only thing is the ground distribution block is to small for the 0 guage wire. Other than that everything was good.

Optima Batteries 8052-161 D31M BlueTop Dual Purpose Battery

The Optima batteries carry a price premium because of their design, however their long life and ability to work in any orientation and in rough environments is what you are buying. Additionally, you do not need to worry about acid spilling out like you would with traidtional deep cycle marine batteries. Cost, however, is substantially higher.

I ordered mine through amazon and it was shipped ground from their fullfulment center in Sacramento nearest to me in the bay area which meant it arrived overnight. I was a little disappointed at first getting ground service as a prime member, but overnight beats 2 days and their fullfillment centers are across the usa so chances are you will get yours in 1-2 days by ground ups.

I have used Optima batteries since I killed my first battery in my H1 humvee offroad in Alaska doing 60 MPH over rock roads from the Yukon territories to Alaska. Ordinary car batteries just don't do well to the vibrations the H1 hummer can produce. Additionally when offroading, the H1 may tip up to 40 degrees on sideslope which will spill the acid out of a normal car battery while the optima does not loose any acid or liquid at all.

You *MUST* match the color code of the optima battery with YOUR intended purpose as follows:

BLUE (this one) DEEP CYCLE applications RV's, inverters, UPS systems basically applications where you plan to drain the battery dry every time then recharge it pretty soon afterwards.

YELLOW (what I use in the H1 Hummer engine) Has both deep cycle ability and engine starting ability. If you drain a NORMAL engine starting battery dead you take between 5-10 percent of its life away right there. The Yellow Optima batteries can take deep discarge running lights and accessories with the engine off and still start the engine then recharge from the alternator provided they are not totally dead. NOTE: if you use the side post for engine starting, ALWAYS connect a winch to the top post. Look closely and you will see that there is a slim bar that makes the side terminal FROM the top post, which is the main terminal. Because a winch will draw 200+ amps for minutes at a time, the top post is advised by optima for this and any heavy, long running loads. Engine starting is brief (4 seconds) so the thin strip inside the battery is fine.

RED these are just simple replacements for engine statring ONLY they are NOT meant to be deep discharged and will suffer a shorter lifespan if you do drain them. They still have all the benefits of the Optima design of being sealed, vibration proof, and spill proof.

Hence for cars, I always choose Yellow tops, and for boats or RV's & UPS systems I use blue tops. Honestly I've never bought a Red top because I normally want a battery that can run accessories on a vehicle with the engine off for a long time.

This battery is rated 75AH and I realize you can buy alot more AH in a deep cycle marine cell with liquid acid for less money. I have no concerns anchoring this battery down inside my vehicle because I know it will not spill acid if I accellerate or corner sharply or go off road. I know that the wet cell deep cycle marine battery will spill acid under many conditions even just climate changes or charging rapidly.

You get what you pay for in the Optima batteries. Considering Amazon does not charge to ship a 69 lb battery to you and does not hit you with a core charge it's not a bad deal to get it on your doorstep overnight or 2 days. All together it proved to be an excellent piece of my inverter system (see Xantrex Technologies Prosine 1,000 to 1,500-Watt Power Inverter #1000 for the inverter I used)

The optima battery can deliver high enough currents for the Xantrex true sinewave inverter to start an air compressor which is a difficult load to deal with. Other batteries I tried refused to provide the inrush current to start the compressor. The reason is simple inside the "6 pack" of cans are rolled up lead calcium gelled acid sheets with LOTS of surface area, which translates into higher currents possible.

Finally, there is a pamphlet stuck to your new battery on how to care for your Optima cell for charging currents on the D31M model. One of the cons of the Optima design is that they do not take equalization charges like wet cells do so it is best to maintain a constant voltage of about 13.6 VDC on the battery when you are able to to prolong its life. I keep mine on the CTEK Multi US 7002 12V Battery Charger which charges at 6-7 amps and can also supply 6amps for items running off the battery when ac is available.

This is professional gear and will deliver excellent results when used properly.

Optima batteries are one of the best on the market. I am very impressed by their longevity and high power delivery. I have had a yellow top Optima in my 4wd truck for 9 years now and it is as strong as the day I installed it. Other great features of Optima batteries are the facts that you never have to add water, they can be mounted in most any position and the terminals never corrode.

This purchase was a second blue top D31M. I use two of these batteries in parallel to power a 2000 watt inverter. I tested it by placing a 1500 watt load on the inverter which drew 137.5 amps from the two batteries in parallel. They were able to sustain this load for 27 minutes. That is like cranking a 6 cylinder engine for half an hour. I previously used marine deep-cycle flooded-cell batteries for my inverter but they would only last about two years and I constantly had to check and add water as well as clean corrosion from the terminals. The bottom line is even though you pay more initially to buy an Optima battery the long life and power delivery quality actually make it cheaper than other batteries when you divide the cost by the number of years of service.

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Over the past 5 years I have purchased 3 Optima batteries. The first one lasted just past it's warranty date and then failed. It was a red top. The last two were very expensive blue top marine deep cycle/starting batteries purchased at the same time and put in the same boat. The batteries operated through a Perko switch set on ALL. They charged together and discharged together. They are just now 37 months old. One has failed completly and the other still works. The warranty is 18 month free replacement and 18 month prorated. So here again no warranty help.

Most battries that you purchase for $200+ have a 48 or 60 month warranty. Optima does not. The company would go out of business if it had to honor warranties that other battery manufactures offer. Optima is just a lot of hype. I have learned my lesson and will never purchase another Optima battery.

Optima is owned by Johnson Controls and moved their manufacturing plant to Mexico. In Mexico they are not held to strict enviornmental laws and employ cheap labor. They now offer only a 24 month warranty, period. I guess they know how long their battery is good for.

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I really wonder if some reviewers here actually read Optima's FAQ.

Optima clearly states that a deeply discharged battery may appear (even to "techs") as defective and explains how to charge such battery.

Also, ANY lead acid battery is subject to sulfation if stored at low charge. Desulfating chargers work and don't cost that much.

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I have used optmas in my cars since the 90s.I have used them in my 87 Buick GN and multiple corvettes. They were the best. However the last copule of years something has changed. I use to let my vettes sit for weeks and they would start without a problem. Now they cant sit for more than two weeks without going dead. Once they are dead forget about charging them. 6 months ago I changed the optima n my 90 Callaway vette to an interstate and can go a month with out a charge. i also examined the electrical system the only draw is the clock and factory security light. Tonight the same problem in my GN. The car sat for three weeks (red top Battery is 3 months old) and the battery is dead and wont take a charge. I never had a problem with the yellow tops or red tops in the 90s, and now I have the same problems with both. I think something was changed in theses batteries and I am now done.

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Pyle PLMRMP1A 2-Channel Waterproof MP3/iPod Marine Power Amplifier

• Marine amplifier delivers 2 x 100 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms, 2 x 200 Watts Max at 4 Ohms, 2 x 300 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms
• Power protection circuitry with anti-thump turn-on and soft turn-off to protect your speakers
• Accepts RCA line inputs and includes a 3.5mm-to-RCA adaptor so you can plug in your MP3 player or iPod easily
• Also accepts standard high- and low-level inputs from marine head units
• Includes wired remote control for adjusting volume gain

The wiring and accessories looked nice and convenient, but the amp did not push anywhere near the rated 100 watts. In reality this amp is good for about 25 watts total (12.5 watts x 2).

If you want low end or volume look elsewhere.

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Very small (think deck of cards) and easy to install. Wish it had more power, but it works.

I paired it with the Dual $30 speakers below. Sounds fine. The amp doesn't push the speakers beyond their limit at all (I hooked them up to my home stereo and they went much louder) so I couldn't see buying any larger speakers for this amp. I put it in my boat, and it is plenty loud enough without the engine running, but I can barely hear it over the engine when running.

Link to speakers below

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A5S926/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

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I installed this AMP in my golf cart and it works great. I purchased the one with the 6.5" speakers. The sound is good for the price. You dont get a lot of base and its not going make you go def but does sound good at normal\high volumes. My cart is open air and we have no problem hearing it at full speed or even if just hanging out near the cart. Very easy to hook up and wired volume control is a great addition. Believe they make a 4 channel if hooking up 4 speakers. If you are looking to THUMP or BLARE this is prob not the best for you but does get loud.

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Gets hot but overall great product , does make music very loud and enjoyable to listen to was amazed how loud

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after proper installation the amp wokred great. then after a hour's worth at half volume it overheated and stoped working.

2nd Generation Audio FM Transmitter and Car Vehicle Charger for the HTC EVO 4G - Uses Gomadic TipEx

• Transmitters emit a powerful FM signal that is the maximum allowed by FCC regulation. Advanced signal isolation provides crystal clear sound quality.
• Smart technology circuit architecture provides precision voltage and resistor regulation specific to the HTC EVO 4G. Protects the internal battery longevity by modulating the charge in a safe and efficient manner.
• Full FM frequency spectrum is available and is user selectable in 0.1MHz increments from 88.1 to 107.9 MHz. Advanced Digital PLL sound coding maintains stable and high quality sound.
• Sophisticated power protection mechanisms keep your EVO 4G safe from power surges, overcharging and short-circuiting.
• Product is designed to last and is backed by our Gomadic Lifetime Warranty. Buy with confidence!

This is a return review. I have used this charger/fm transmitter for my htc evo for five months. It served its purpose for the five months. however, it is not working and not charging now, i just wanted to mention that to users

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i got this product because it doesn't take batteries. it works just fine. there is one problem. if the device and my stereo are on i can here a low ticking noise. not noticeable with music on though.

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I have had this product for some time now and it still works as expected. No complains so far. I would recommend.

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it's been a year since I had this and it still works well and still love it, also got 1 for my wife and she loves hers

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Exactly what I was looking for. My truck doesn't have a MP3 jack to listen to my music on my phone. Love this product!

Dual Battery Isolation Kit with Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR)

I received this item on time when promised. The installation couldn't have been easier. Red cable from Positive battery terminal to isolator then Red Cable from Isolator to second battery positive terminal. Ground isolator with black cable to vehicle body or frame. Ground second battery to body or frame and your ready to go. No need to connect alternator to isolator with this product. So far it works perfect!

Bought this for my car's four security camera's. Without it, my car battery always died in two days. Now no worries. When i go on vacation for a week, the battery is at 25%. I start the car with no problems and the second battery charges up. Thanks

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Disappointed.

I used this kit to install a dual battery setup on my boat along with a Blue Sea 7650 switch. I ended up using the Blue Sea voltage sensing relay as this one feels cheap and did not make me have confidence in its ability to do the job over the long run. The kit needs to come with at least double the amount of tinned copper lugs (the cable ends that connect to the terminals) because there is simply not enough in this kit. I had to go to my local autoparts store and buy more to complete my install. The same was true with the shrink wrap....simply not enough to do a complete install. I guess they don't expect you to install a switch along with it...but how do they expect you to control the power if you don't install a switch along with it.

In the end I would have saved money if I would have just bought the tinned copper lugs and wire separate.

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Bulldog RS102 Remote Car Starter with Keyless Entry

• Remote programmable runtime (5, 10, or 15 minutes)
• Automatic hot/cold start
• 4-button extended range remote control
• Keyless entry/trunk pop
• Lifetime warranty

The product worked as advertised. Granted, the installation was difficult but that's because of having to work in a cramped space and at awkward angles. One job I'd never want to have is an automobile electronics installer! But if you follow the directions step by step, and get the wiring chart for your vehicle from Bulldog's web site, the unit should work. Mine worked the first time and I'm happy with it. The programming is a little convoluted but without any external switches or interfaces, I guess button pushing sequences is all that's left. I was skeptical about Bulldog's method for splicing wires (no soldering or crimp connectors) but it works and you don't have to cut and splice any wires. They provide a little voltage tester that was a big help. Its a probe with an alligator clip on one end and an LED at the other end and it was very helpful in finding the correct wires. Just be patient and accept that working under a car dash is a real pain!

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I bought this module for my honda car, after reading that its easy to install. But when I bought it I found out it was difficult to install. In fact I ended up paying a car mechanic to install it.

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I have installed 2 of these, one in my Windstar, and the other in my F150 Pickup. The F150 was my second one, and was relatively easy, about 3 hours. The Windstar was my first, and took a lot longer, I had a defective unit, the company replaced it no hassle. It can be tricky to put these in, there is very little room to maneuver under your steering column. Their website gives wiring information for many models. If you are not mechanically inclined, don't even try. I would hesitate to put these on a newer, still under warranty vehicle, only because a screwup might create warranty issues. I'm getting 2 more for my parents for Christmas. Bulldog sells wiring harnesses for many vehicles, I bought one for the first try, did not for the 2nd, after I saw how easy it was to make the splices by their directions. Good luck.

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I purchased this remote starter in November of 2005 and began the endeavor of learning how to install a starter by myself. I personally can not comment on the technical support staff, as I never found it necessary to contact them.

I started by pulling up my wiring diagram (a 2004 Chevy Cavalier) and printing it out. Later that night, starting at around 11:00pm, I began the installation process. The instillation was a snap, the only difficulties I ran in to were the wires hiding WAY up on the body control module, which was an issue with the car, not the starter. After only 2 hours, having never installed a remote starter in my life, along with a fuel system bypass module, I pressed the start button and just like that, first shot, the vehicle started.

I have since installed the starter in two separate vehicles. One vehicle belonging to a friend, and a second vehicle of mine. The install in my second vehicle (a '97 Dodge Ram Sport full-size pickup) took around an hour and a half. Again, once all wires were connected, first touch of the button and I heard the pipes singing.

Of course, this starter does not have all the bells and whistles of other models out there, but for the price, you can't expect it to have all the other features. Aside from the range (which is greatly increased by following instructions and keeping the antenna away from the frame, and also by mounting it to a third party antenna**), I would recommend it to anyone who wants a reliable remote vehicle starter.

I bought and purchased the remote starter at the bargain priced of $79.97 Canadian at our local Zellers Store in December 2002. The unit worked fine for the first two months but on February 21st of this year the unit short malfunctioned at my office and the unit constantly began cranking the starter motor. Unfortunately by the time our facility management and security personnel were able to find me and I was able to disconnect the battery the unit had fried my starter and it was to late.

I called and e-mailed the company everyday for a week and nobody would respond. After one week of trying I finally did get a response by phone and they said to send it in and they would have a look at it. They advised that this type of failure had never happened in the past. When I found out that these failures have happened and due to the length of time it took for them to respond to such a serious problem, I wasn't left with much confidence that I would get anywhere with them so I decided that the retailer would have to intervene. I am trying to reach a settlement to obtain compensation for the $700.00 I am out of pocket. They are having the unit independently tested to determine if there is a defect in the unit that caused it to fail. I will keep you posted as to how I make out and as to whether it is determined that the unit was defective.

Based on my experience I would stay clear of this product.

Allstart Tools 555 Camo Pro Pac Battery Jump Starter with AC Inverter

I HAVE USED ONE BEFORE FOR OVER 10 YEARS AND ITS STILL GOING STRONG. ITS A GREAT PRODUCT AND EASY TO USE AND IT HAS NEVER LET ME DOWN YET. ITS NICE TO HAVE THE INVERTER TO RUN SMALL THINGS OR A PHONE CHARGER WHICH COMES IN HANDY ALL THE TIME. KEEPS A CHARGE FOR A LONG TIME AND YOU CANT OVERCHARGE IT SO ITS A PLUG AND FORGET FOR AWHILE IF NEED BE. IVE USED IT ON HUNTING/ FISHING TRIPS, AT WORK WHEN MY DUMP TRAILER BATTERY GETS LOW AND WONT GO UP, IVE JUMP STARTED VEHICLES WHEN BATTERY'S GO LOW AND THERE OUT IN THE BOONIES. GREAT PRODUCTWOULD NOT HESITATE TO BUY ANOTHER. THERE ARE CHEAPER ONES AVAILABLE BUT NONE WILL WORK AS GOOD AS THIS ONE DOES.

I had a friend stuck at work needing a jump on his Bronco... Took this over there, Voila! Started it, no problem and his battery was DEAD... so, works for me! :)

Haven't tried the inverter yet, but that was a secondary consideration, I wanted something to start me if needed when I'm out four wheeling away from help and gas stations; and it appears to do the job.

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Purchased the unit as an emergency back-up power source for charging cell phone through 12v plug and and lap-top computer thru the invertor works great for both...

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So far so good..... My truck sat for ten months, hooked the pro pack up to her and one crank fired right up

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I have owned the Pro Pack since 2000 and recently purchased a second one. I have used the Pro Pack jump starter numerous times while hunting and camping. Things happen when you least expect it and the Pro Pack has come to the rescue everytime...because I never leave home without it. I use it at night to run florescent lights in my tent or cabin. It is quiet! and that is ultimately important when I am hunting and camping. My 12 year old Pro Pack still works great, I use it mostly around the house when the power goes out for instant lighting with a florescent drop light. Thanks for a great product. JJF

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Python 474P TX Remote with Extra Keypad for 474PX

• Python 4-button remote

I bought this to replace a failed original unit. This replacement unit works perfectly. The instructions for programming it were a little off, but once I got it programmed everything worked fine. The price on Amazon was good and delivery was quick. Definitely satisfied with this product.

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I ordered this remote to replace the one that I currently have for my wheelchair accessible van. It is to open and close the wheelchair ramp. I did not realize that it would not come with instructions on how to program it for the wheelchair ramp. I still have not been able to program it and am still having to use the old one which only works occasionally. Very frustrating to say the least. My 10 year old son is in a wheelchair and I really need this to work.

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this is not the product they send out. i got a way after market product that couldnt be programed. dont do find a store in your local area

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The remotes work perfectly. took a few trys to get the combination perfect but once I got it down I was able to program Both remotes with easily

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I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata. Works fine! I admit that I did have a tough time installing the device at first. Had to look up where my "valet button" was on my car (under the dash below my steering wheel) and also have to run my vehicle (as opposed to just turning the key to the "on" position). Once I had those little details down, installation was a snap! Works exactly the way I expected.

Odyssey PC925L-A Automotive Light Truck Battery

I have Polaris 02 700 sportsman the battery is all position, so I put on its side bolted the power & ground cables up to the PC925L, dropped it in the stock battery box, (the stock tie down worked perfected) lots of reserve power for spraying roundup.

No complaints! Arrived sooner than promised was in the original Odyssey box (which was well packed by the way) and they used fed-x so I received a ship notification and was able to track it's progress.

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So, overall, this is a nice battery. While it lasts. Two winters in a non-heated garage and the battery was dead in the middile of the third year. So, if you want to buy this battery because it works well go ahead. But whatever you do do not believe the story about it "lasting 10 years". This is just not true.

BTW, the warranty on the battery is 2 years and the manufacturer will not give you a time of day if you are one second over it.

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I've had poor luck with flooded lead acid deep cycle batteries in marine applications, and excellent luck with the smaller Odyssey dry cells in PWCs. So I decided to invest some extra money in one of these after my last pontoon boat battery died.

The PC925L fits acceptably in my group 24 battery box when positioned on its side. I ordered some M6 wing bolts (10mm long) to easily connect my eye terminals and provide a clamp area for my charger. Had absolutely no problem cranking & starting a 60hp Mercury outboard, but the real test will come when I use it at night and fire up the docking lights. That usually drops system voltage enough to dim the panel gauge and anchor lights.

My main desire with the Odyssey battery is long life, as I've experienced with the smaller ones. That remains to be seen.

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Husky Liners Custom Fit Second Seat Floor Liner for Toyota RAV4 for Select Toyota RAV4 Models (Blac

got this for the 2nd row seating area of an '09 Rav 4 because weathertech doesn't make one. turns out to be a well worthwhile buy. it fits nearly perfectly (there is little bit of a gap around the corners but not much).

I've hesitated so long in getting this. I wish I hadn't, it would have saved me from many hours of vacuuming. Well worth every penny. It makes the back seat look brand new again.

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Accutire MS-4400B Pistol Grip Digital Tire Gauge

I have one of these from the late 1990s and it still works great. I like it so much I bought another recently.

It died after only 2 days -I tried to read a tire with about 8 psi and it showed "-0.0" on the display. After this, all it would do is show the same thing "-0.0".

So I exchanged it for another one. Sure enough, it worked for dozens of readings, until a few days later I again tried to read a tire with about 8 psi in it. Once again, it will only show "-0.0" after that.

My guess is this is a firmware problem with the new units.

It worked fine until the battery died. Then I found out that's designed to be disposable. I actually disassembled the unit and got a battery from Radioshack, but oh surprise, the unit didn't work anymore.

Don't buy disposable units. Pay a little bit more and get something that will work for many years.

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Piece of junk. Won't fasten onto the tire's valve stem just releases the air from the tire and doesn't register the pressure (that used to be there). I've purchased several items via Amazon.com, and this is the only one that's been a big disappointment.

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After buying a lot of inaccurate tire gauges (especially the digital ones), we found a review on Consumer Reports that recommended this one. Bought 3 -all 3 gave the same tire pressure when I tried them out on a tire. Accidentally dropped one on the pavement, then it flipped into the sand/gravel. Blew the sand out of the nozzle and it worked just fine. I don't recommend dropping it into the sand of course, but CR did say it held up well to being dropped and that seems to be true.

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I have had this gauge for a couple of years but had noticed significant differences between it and other gauges. Recently I did a comparison between three gauges including a certified master gauge in a tire shop. My gauge was reading 4 psi too low a significant deviation for a 32 psi nominal pressure.

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