Painless 40102

This kit was a pain in the a--. Hooking up to the starter solinoid was the worst pain. I had to end up ordering custom made battery cables. One was 8 feet long running from the starter to the switching cylinder. Getting to the starter was almost impossible without tearing up my hand. So far everything seems to work ok but like I said it was a pain not painless.

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LaserShield BSK13101 Home Alarm Kit

Don't make the same mistake.

1If you don't subscribe to a monitoring service you cannot have any functionality at all. Can't make it call you to your phone, can't make it send you a TXT even if you have the sparrow thing installed.

2The audible alarm sounds a little louder than my alarm clock in buzzer mode.

3The sensors are definitively not state of the art, as the description states.

I have had alarms in the past so I have something to compare to. I know this is not the top of the line system, but I have had descent alarm systems that call up to five numbers without subscribing to a service.

This thing has a lot of potential! What if the Sparrow module would let you monitor it yourself through the internet. or activate it and deactivate it online... check which sensors are active, etc... that would be something. I have looked for something like this and haven't found a good product. I would pay for the Sparrow if it did something more than send info to an alarm company.

Hope my review helps you... Maybe if you're willing to pay for the service it would work OK... but most alarm companies install their stuff for free if you stay with them for 2 years. I have had ADT before... Sylvania also makes some nice "monitor yourself" alarms like for around 150...I just thought this one would be able to dial without the alarm company service.

2.5" Screen HD 720P Car DVR Driving Recorder With IR 10-LED Night Vision/Cycling Recording/AV OUT

• Uses 500W HD camera lens.
• Night vision function.
• Automatically records once the engine starts.
• When the memory is full, it will automatically cover the previous files

The folks at Alldaymall contacted me shortly after I had ordered this product:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00919ZNQM/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

telling me they had just sold out of that particular camera, and asked if they could substitute an alternative. I figured something like this situation would happen eventually (since they had only one of that item left in stock), so I said "OK". The substitute was the camera I'm reviewing now. I was a little disappointed that an English language operating manual wasn't included (the only manual was in Chinese, I think), but since I'm a very technically-minded, hands-on kind of guy, I started pressing buttons to see what did what. It didn't take long to figure out how to operate the camera (about 30-45 minutes of trial-and-error) and get the battery charged. It has several resolutions available, from VGA 640X480 to 1080 FHD on the movie camera side, to VGA 640X480 to 12 MP on the still images side. There's also a setting to flip the display 180 degrees, if you use the camera "upside down", and so many others I haven't used yet. It's a definite learning curve...if you press the setting wheel too soon, it defaults to the main display, and so forth. As mentioned, trial and error and about 45 minutes of tinkering, and you'll be operating this camera in no time flat. I've not yet used it in my car, but I plan to at some point, just to test it's capabilities.

It comes with an in-car mount (a heavy-duty suction cup for attaching to the windshield), an RCA video cable to connect to a TV or DVR, a USB A to micro USB cable, and a 12v car adapter. You can also use it as a webcam, if you're so inclined, or a USB mass storage device (although I had some trouble mounting it as the latter...I suspect my computer not recognizing any USB device over 8gb as the culprit). It'll take up to a 32GB SD Card, which, on the lowest resolution settings, will give you over 400,000 still images or over 5 hours of video. It's also night-vision capable, given the array of 10 IR LEDs on either side of the wide-angle lens. With the LEDs turned on, you can see about 30-45 feet in total darkness (about average for night vision devices). Turning them on takes a bit of practice...press the power button once to turn the camera on, then a brief press of the power button will turn the LEDs on or off (the display will indicate when the LEDs are on or off). The display itself is rather small...no more so than an average LCD camera, so it really isn't an issue.

I've not yet tested the battery capacity, but I suspect on battery power alone, actual use times may vary. I tend to use things like this connected to an inexhaustable power supply (such as a LARGE battery, a car charger, or other means), since batteries are so unpredictable.

I plan to tinker with this some more over the next few weeks, so we'll see just how complicated (or easy!) this camera is to use "in the field", as it were.

In closing, I'd like to ask a favor of the fine folks at Alldaymall Please include an English-language manual, or offer an English-language translation of the included manual with your cameras from now on. The directions on the back of the box are not very informative. Thank you!

Coleman Cable 08860 20-Foot Ultra-Heavy-Duty Truck and Auto Battery Booster Cables, 2-Gauge

i wold not recommend getting a jumper cable this good unless you have frequent problems with your car.

i play a lot with different stereo components (amplifiers etc) in my car and i end up running the battery down dead quite often.

for me hauling around a 15-pound set of booster cables in the trunk is worth it because, for example, i used it twice within just the first week after receiving it for most other people it may not be worth it.

the jaws grip super tight. actually its very hard to work them with just one hand because they are so strong sometimes i end up using both hands to compress the spring seriously i imagine many guys will HAVE to use both hands but this makes for a stronger contact. there are copper inserts in both jaws (so in 4 jaws in total) and some people prefer that although (of course) only 2 of the 4 jaws actually are connected to the cable directly.

the cable itself really looks like 2nd gauge its almost all copper with only very thin (about 1 millimeter) insulation on top of it. this is unlike 10 dollar jumper cables which have almost the same thickness on the outside but are almost all rubber with a thin copper wire in the middle.

i ran into a bit of a problem with the insulation on the jaws themselves though. the red and black rubbery plastic on the handles is thin and not durable. when i gripped one of the jaws onto the handle of another it bit right through this plastic and started to spark. this is also a testament to how strongly the jaws grip they bite right through insulation (so dont do that).

i never thought i would need so much length but actually its quite handy. we even managed to jump the car in-line parked with a third car in between our cars (but one of our cars had to be parked reversed for that).

for those of you who are not electrical engineers like me your engine needs a certain cranking current and to get it out of jumper cable the cable must have low enough resistance. resistance increases with cable length so if you have a big engine to start (bigger engines need more cranking current) and a long booster cable it better be thick, because thickness of copper is what lowers resistance.

for my engine which is only 3.5 liters this cable is overkill but the only thing wrong with overkill is that you have to haul around a 15 pound booster cable in your trunk ... perhaps in extra cold weather when the engine is extra difficult to start the overkill might come in handy.

five stars this cable is no joke

So these aren't the best cables you can buy. For that you'll have to go to an electrical or welding supply company and you will PAY! Probably between 3 and 5 times what these cost! So unless you plan to start a towing service and need cables that will see daily use, I'd say these are gonna work for you.

(Update: After compairing them to the 4ga cables I bought a month or so back for my car, they don't really seem that much thicker... That's said they are MUCH heavier! The individual stranding is of a thicker gauge than the other model so I'm guessing that's why the thickness isn't much more...)

What I like:

--Length I bought these for a half-ton pickup. Why? Because it never fails that your battery will fail to start your engine when your parked in a packed lot with cars on all sides. Rather than pushing a 3 ton vehicle out you pull the booster vehicle in as close as you can and let the length work for you.

--Heft these cables are no joke. It's a workhorse grade cable that lets plenty of energy flow. When trying to start a 5.7L V8, that's kinda important.

--Solid Clamps Unlike some of the other reviews, I don't have a problem opening my parrot clamps with one hand. But their hardly weak, they'll clamp solid and stay put!

(Update: If you really need 2ga booster cables and your skeptical of these, Deka makes a set of 2ga cables for around $150. I have no personal experence with them but I have a little with the Deka name and they seem pretty good.)

What I don't like:

--Stiffness They're not as flexible as I was hoping. But about as flexible as I expected. True welding cable in 2ga is about $3 per foot and per cable. That's why the best jumper cables cost $200+. Still I was hoping for a little thinner stranding to promote flexibilty.

--Cable to Clamp Like other reviews have mentioned the cable doesn't go all the way to a copper contact connected to the jaws. Instead. It's screwed to the body of the clamp then the copper jaws are also screwed to the body. Still fine I'm sure.

So why buy these cables aren't they overkill? I've had this argument with people before: "My 6ga cheapies start my truck fine." Well I will attempt to addess this. As the number in terms of gauge decreases the ammount of conductor increases. In other words 2ga has more (perhaps 50-100% more) conductor than 4ga. This doesn't automatically equate to twice as much power but it does certainly allow more power to flow safely. For those that aren't aware (and I'm not an electrical engineer here), resistance is the enemy of all electrical circuts. Resistance translates to heat in the same way that friction does when two physical surfaces rub together. Five basic factors contribute to resistance in a give curcuit and determine the appropriate line size. Ambient temperature, conductor, line distance, voltage, and amperage. Ambient temp we have no control over. Hot is bad so just assume the worst. This means bigger cable to overcome the additon resistance heat is producing. Conductor of these is copper so that's good. You want pure or at least a high purity mix of copper in this type of conductor. Distance and voltage. One of these cable's strengths also happens to be a weakness. Total run length for this circut is 50'. Pretty long for a low voltage system like 12VDC. The higher the voltage, the longer it can run on a given gauge wire without encountering too much voltage drop. 12VDC drops voltage on a circuit in a realatively short distance. So heaiver gauge lines are needed to prevent this. Amperage is also a big consideration. The more amps a load pulls the more resistance the circut will generate. Basically on a small wire, a large load will generate a lot of heat and one of two things will happen. 1) the wire will melt and/or catch on fire. 2) The load your trying to power won't work. And make no mistake, starting even a small engine takes a LOT of energy! So bringing it all together. Large load, low voltage (that we don't want to make in lower), and a long distance run means that you wan the heaviest cables you can find. Addressing the orignal question and statment. 6' 6ga cables might start your small-block fine. But if you want or need the extra length, you need to consider heavy gauge cables. That said I've personally seen light duty cables melt and smoke from starting an engine too big for them.

Are these right for you? So these will run you close to $100 shipped...do you actaully need them? I own both these and the Coleman 4ga 25' booster cables. Having no offical training and with no real sizing charts on the packaging I would say this. The 4ga will do you fine at the 25' length for engines up to 5-liters or so (and honestly probably up to about 6L as well.) Anything bigger than that and you should be considering these or something even better.

Also protect your investment. Buy a cable bag for them to keep them neat and protected. Also keep the twist ties that came with them to keep them organized inside your bag. I have the Arsenal #5888 cable organizer and it works great for this. Remember too to clean and inspect your cables after each use to prolong their life and keep you safe.

Buy Coleman Cable 08860 20-Foot Ultra-Heavy-Duty Truck and Auto Battery Booster Cables, 2-Gauge Now

All other jumper cables are not real jumper cables. THESE are jumper cables. Let me explain.

When you're in a bind on some dark night in some parking lot somewhere and your battery is dead, you need to get out of there pronto.

In times like that, it's much easier to get a jump if YOU own a set of jumper cables. It's double good if those jumper cables are long so that they can easily reach the battery of a good samaritan. Now, according to electrical theory in order for DC current to flow across long distances, you need thicker cable.

That's where these cables come in, they're long at 25' and thick at 2gauge.

That's what these cables provide, maximum length at near maximum gauge cable. And yes, your jumper cables SHOULD cost close to as much as your spare tire because that's what you need --just look up the cost of copper on the market (that stuff is expensive).

Yes, you can buy a $17 set of 10 foot, 18 gauge cables out there but if they can't reach between cars or if they can't carry enough power to start your car, you might as well have been lugging a brick in your trunk all those years and you might as well have enjoyed a good lunch with the $17 for all the false confidence it gave you. I'm serious, buy an extension cord for $5 and you get as much jumping potential as many of the so called 'jumper' cables on the market --there should be laws against marketing products that cannot jump start a car. Worse, having no cables or less-than-worthless cables means that a criminal might reach you before you can get a jump and make your getaway.

At the end of the day, you want a 25' or 20' cable, so you better be looking at 2gauge or 4 gauge cable no compromises there. You can go to 6gauge if you're working your way down to 16' cables. But, the reality is that you always need a few extra feet when trying to jump start someone's car parked in some tight parking space --so you're back to the 25' and 2 gauge.

Pros

I know I can jump start a Semi with these (more importantly, I can get a jump from a Semi Truck drivers are the good guys btw)

Extra long at 25'

Parrot clamp are strong, but an average guy can open them with one hand

Copper inserts in the parrot clamps is nice

Clamps are rated at 500amps

they're friggin heavy at near 14lbs, yes that's a pro! that means there's 14 POUNDS of Copper in there and that's what allows the current to flow as freely as the Amazon river (no pun intended). It's huge.

Cons

I do have an issue that the copper cable is not attached to the copper inserts in the clamps, it screws into the metal clamp rather than into the copper insert. I don't know if that's a mistake or not. I'm thinking about doing a bit of retrofitting. I'm sure it's more than enough the way it is.

Overall, these are as close an approximation to the kind of jumper cables that my dad had when I was growing up. He custom made his -he's old school.

Anyway, if you're going to carry jumper cables, and you should --don't muck around -spend the dough, get these --they'll last a lifetime and will not let you down.

Advice, after you get a jump don't waste time rolling these things up in some dark parking lot -just toss the heavy mangled mess into your trunk and get home. There's always time the next day to roll these monsters back up and get them ready for the next wild adventure you might have.

Read Best Reviews of Coleman Cable 08860 20-Foot Ultra-Heavy-Duty Truck and Auto Battery Booster Cables, 2-Gauge Here

The quality of workmanship and materials is outstanding on these cables. If you own a crew cab pickup especially a diesel pickup these are the cables you need.

Want Coleman Cable 08860 20-Foot Ultra-Heavy-Duty Truck and Auto Battery Booster Cables, 2-Gauge Discount?

I wanted a super heavy duty set of booster cables and these certainly fill the bill. I have not had the need to try them out yet but the heavy duty construction leaves me no doubt that I would be able to jump start the space shuttle if needed. You may be able to get by with a set of 4ga or even 6ga, but if you have full size trucks or an RV, these are definitely worth considering.

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Philips 12824WLEDX1 DayLight 8 High Powered Luxeon LED Daytime Running Light

These Philips LED DRLs are well built, bright, rugged, and the supplied harness and hardware are top notch. Heatsinking is excellent so the LEDs should remain bright for the life of the car. The LEDs on my units are also of matched tint with none appearing particularly warmer or cooler. Overall the tint is a cool white which goes well with HID headlights, but my halogen fogs look very yellow next to these. They are not as surprisingly bright as I was hoping for after reading the reviews here, but isn't that how it always is with high expectations. (EDIT: After 3 weeks in varying weather I can say they are satisfyingly bright. I find myself driving off at night forgetting to turn my headlights on since they do illuminate the road to a degree.)

Hookup is easy 3 wires: battery +/-, and one lead to a parking light. The control module has two excellent waterproof plugs that connect to the lights. The lights have sufficiently long wires with matching plugs at the end. All wire is protected by a gloss black vinyl tubing. The lead to the parking light was not long enough for my installation (control module mounted on center of firewall to left front park light).

The lights function by sensing change in battery load and automatically turn on. When the module senses the battery is in a steady state the lights turn off after ~10 seconds. This works well enough, but has some quirks. My car has delayed-off dome lights. So when I open the door and trigger the dome lights, the module senses the current and the DRLs turn on (no key in ignition). Not quite 10 seconds later the DRLs turn off (meanwhile my dome lights are still on). Then when my dome lights turn off, the module senses another change and turns the DRLs on again for 10 seconds. So while this could seem like a fancy convenience function of the DRLs, it is the consequence of the simplified hookup design. I do not find this objectionable except when the battery is connected to a charger that is cycling on and off and the lights are turning on/off as well. Personally I would have preferred wiring them to the ignition or the option to. As is when I approach the car and unlock the doors with my remote, the DRLs come on and help locate the car as well as illuminate the walk toward it not a bad thing. UPDATE: Upon installing a new battery I found the DRLs no longer turn on when I operate the remote. The old battery was tired and exhibited a larger voltage drop when the dome lights turned on whereas the new battery maintains voltage better and does not trigger the control module. The lights now turn on with the engine, but only with the engine. I believe this is how they were designed to function and my initial experience was due to a weak battery. If the lights begin to operate again with my remote I will know my battery is starting to weaken.

The LEDs dim when the park/headlights are on unless the park light lead is not hooked up. These are bright enough that oncoming drivers will be annoyed if they are not dimmed at night. The control module uses PWM dimming which is basically a superfast strobe. This is noticeable when waving your hand in front of them, but not when driving.

I measured the current to the system and it was 1.25 A on hi, and 110 mA when dimmed which figures to 16 and 1.4 watts. By contrast my two dome light bulbs draw 680 mA each or 17 watts for the pair, more than the DRLs on hi.

Depending on your vehicle, installation may be more involved that the 2 hr. estimate. My car (2003 Audi S6) has lower grilles which are not ideal for directly mounting these. I fabricated some brackets that bolted to the bumper support and secured the lights into openings I cut in the grilles (I uploaded a customer pic of the finished install).

If you do mount as suggested by screwing the frames to the car then snapping the lights into the frames, be advised it will be difficult to remove them. The frames are a strong spring steel and snap securely over the light housings in matching recesses. So once the light is snapped into the frame they are flush, and once in the frames the lights obstruct the mounting screws. Removing the lights would require prying the frames up to free the locking tabs something I'd rather not attempt. There is another suggested mounting option directly bolting them to the car via two M5 tapped holes in the back of the housings and not using the frames, but there are no M5 bolts included in the kit.

My car requires removal of the front end for certain engine maintenance. As such I wish there was also a disconnect plug at the lights and not just at the control box. Removal of the lights would require unplugging at the control box and feeding all the wire back through PITA. I ended up adding disconnects at the lights and making 2-piece mouting brackets so I could remove the lights, their frames, and part of the bracket easily as one unit without having to pry the lights out of the frames. When I added the disconnects I removed most of the excess wire and used some to extend the park light lead which was short.

The only non-OEM quality part in the kit is the connection for the lead to the park lights, a Scotchlok-style tap splice. I've had problems with corrosion over time with these, so I placed a blob of silicone in it before I squeezed it to encapsulate the connection.

Overall I am very satisfied with them and have confidence they will last. I would have liked the ability to disconnect the lights at the housings and a more disassembly-friendly design, but depending on your vehicle these may be non-issues. If you have an easy install or have the means regardless, these exude quality and will not disappoint. I rate it 5 stars for the quality of the components and for what it is a universal kit. Installed on my Audi they look and perform every bit OEM.

Just had these installed in my 2008 Infiniti G37. The lights look good and function more or less as advertised (come on bright, dim when other lights come on), but I also noticed the lights had a blinking duty cycle in dim mode when I stopped after 30 minutes of driving (see video). This is not documented, but is exactly as LAQ described. There must be a reason for this. My lights were professionally installed according to the directions.

Philips Automotive (248-553-9080) first advised the blinking was because the 3rd wire to enable dimming is connected to a circuit that has auto-on capability (my marker light, parking light or city light whatever you want to call it). Most modern vehicles have sensors to automatically turn on lights at night or in tunnels. Philip's advised this capability conflicts with the DRL's auto-dimming function; even during the daytime when the headlights don't come on! One or the other must be disabled. I removed this 3rd wire on the DRL leaving the DRL's permanently in their bright mode. UPDATE: Cutting the wire to the parking light had no effect the lights still blinked. After further discussion with Philips, they commented the Daylight 8 LEDs are designed in Europe and when installed on many North American vehicles the (voltage?) tolerances are not the same. They sent me a new control module (Alternative Control box ACC/KL15 starter)with one additional wire to a fuse box. Once installed again, the lights performed as advertised. I downgraded my rating from 4 stars to 3 stars as this issue was not documented and I was given incorrect advice the first time. Philips is not only aware, they have an alternate module ready this situation should be both documented and a warning to clients. I had to pay twice for the 2 installations and a lot of lost time debugging a known issue.

Philips attempted to make the connections idiot proof by utilizing a 2-wire control module with a voltage sensor to determine when the lights should change modes. Unfortunately it doesn't work for all vehicles so be forewarned. In my opinion, the traditional 3-wire connections to a fused relay is more complicated to install but gives predictable results.

I also note the lights are quite directional. Mine were installed to match the shape of the bumper which has a slight curve where mounted. Consequently they point a little bit to the side, perhaps 10 degrees. I don't consider this an issue as they are not the primary source of illuminating the road ahead of the vehicle. In fact it could be beneficial as they complement the front pointing projection lights.

They are bright and slim providing an even more modern look to my car.

Buy Philips 12824WLEDX1 DayLight 8 High Powered Luxeon LED Daytime Running Light Now

Based upon the glowing reviews for this product, I decided to make the investment in the LED DayLight 8 running lights for my new F-150 King Ranch. The product is well-made, lives up to all of the reviews, and the shipment was prompt and problem-free. Installation was relatively straight-forward, although the instructions for the wiring sequence were a little confusing and I hadn't anticipated the need to remove the entire headlight assembly to access the wire to the parking light. I was very pleased with the end result, until a few days later when someone on the street pointed out that the running lights were flashing on and off. It seems that after the vehicle runs about a minute, the running lights begin flashing...5 seconds on and 2 seconds off. It appears the control box may be overheating....which seems further supported by the fact that the flashing stops when the running lights are in "dim mode" when the headlights are on. Convinced a replacement control box would fix the problem, I called the Philips support number that is listed on the instructions and on the box the running lights came in. This phone number is for the household lighting division, which is totally unfamiliar with this product. They transferred me to the automotive division...which appears to only be able to help consumers identify which replacement light bulbs to buy for their vehicles. After several circular conversations it became evident that Philips was unable / unwilling to help me....to the point that it seemed they had never heard of this product. These results are very disappointing. The LED Daylight 8 running lights were a great addition to my truck and I am very frustrated that after spending over 2 hours to install them, I now have to uninstall them tonight so that UPS can pick them up tomorrow to return Amazon. Since I'm not willing to invest the time for another installation with potentially similar results, I didn't request a replacement set.

Read Best Reviews of Philips 12824WLEDX1 DayLight 8 High Powered Luxeon LED Daytime Running Light Here

This product is indeed of the highest quality. The frame is (as far as I can tell) aluminium, the lens is glass, and has the DOT mark. The light pattern from each of the eight LEDs is designed well, projecting the light forward in a narrow beam as viewed from the top, yet projecting a very tall beam as viewed from the side. The mounting brackets appear to be high strength, hardenned steel very rugged. The electronics work perfectly, just as advertised and are encased in a steel box (looks water tight as well). As soon as the car turns on, the DRL come on. When you turn on the car's running lights, the DRL immediately dim. When you turn off the car, the DRL waits about 20 seconds and then turns off. I'm quite sure the LED's are pulse width controlled, meaning the control box is more complex than just a relay switch, and I'm sure this contributes to both the brighness and longevity of the DRL.

The other great attribute of this product is its slim profile. The DRL is ~17mm high ( less than 3/4"). Compared with all the other DRL I saw on the market, this seems to be the thinnest.

The lights themselves are *very* bright, easily seen in broad daylight. Phillips clims a 10000hr liftime which is way beyond the life of the car assuming an average speed of 30mi/hr, the DRL should last 300,000 miles.

Bottom line: I'm happy with the product, it was well worth the premium over other products available in the market.

Want Philips 12824WLEDX1 DayLight 8 High Powered Luxeon LED Daytime Running Light Discount?

Had these lights installed last week on my 2011 Infiniti g 25. They installed in about 1 hour, simple and easy to do for most people. I had purchased a diffenent brand in October and after the first storm had water and condensation behind the lens. These Phillips lights are real quality and I have had lots of comments form friends and the sales person where I purchase the car, infact they will probably purchase the same light themselves. They are much brighter then I thought they would, very visable in daylight and they dim to a beautiful accent light when I turn on the headlights. I did a lot of research before I finally settled on these lights and it paid off. Don't buy the cheaper lights out there or imitations because you will just have to replace them quickly and sooner then you want. These are quaility, bright, and easy to install. Highly recommended

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36V Dual Pro Golf Cart Battery Charger with Plug #611 for EZ Go

The wrong charger was sent. It had been mislabeled in the box. Contacted company, they sent authorization and label to return at their cost and then the correct charger was sent. Charger works great! Customer service was excellent. Will use this company again.

Odyssey PC625 Powersports Battery

This is my second Odyssey Battery and the first one is still working fine. I use these in a pair of Yamaha WaveRunners. One of the best features on this battery is its ability to hold a charge. Come winter, I just disconnect the battery and leave it in the WaveRunner and it is ready to go in the spring; the cold does not bother it at all.

these batteries do not generate gasses dangerous especially due to the equipment that must be nearby when you generate solar/wind electricity. this co. ships fast and refunds are not a problem. their prices are the best and their rating is almost always 5 star. 'nough fer me.

Buy Odyssey PC625 Powersports Battery Now

The Odyssey PC625 Powersports Battery is a very good Battery. When I first received the battery, I was a little worried because it is very compact. I put it in my boat (it arrived fully charged) and went out to the lake. I tooled around for about 4 hours and still had a 1/4 charge. I liked it so much that I bought a second one and I now use two of these to power my 40 lbs thrust electric trolling motor. The small size allows me to easily fit both in my Minkota Battery enclosure. I have the motor on my square back canoe, and this set of batteries keep me trolling all day long. Smooth power delivery and long life as well as the compact sealed design make these batteries ideal for powering small boat motors. It takes and holds a charge very well. It is a little more expensive than a similar battery (that is larger, heavier, and may not work as well) but I believe it is completely worth the price. I would recommend these without hesitation.

Read Best Reviews of Odyssey PC625 Powersports Battery Here

heheh, I'm going to be the outlier here believe it or not I use this in my car! :) I think this really shows the power and versatility of this battery. I modified the back of my car to open up to allow for easier working on the engine, but this required me to tilt the trunk 90 degrees the original battery was a normal battery, so this would translate to spilling it's contents all over everything, which is generally what you don't want to do. So I searched around and looked for what my options were in terms of a sealed battery that could still put out enough amps to turn over my car more than a few times and not leave me stranded in some parking lot. A couple other Lotus owners also identified this battery (which they used for weight reasons), and I switch to it about two years ago without a single issues.

Now I don't recommend this for everyone (or really anyone), because there are quite a few caveats such as I had to put a battery quick-disconnect on it because the parasitic load from the alarm would drain it dead in about a week. But I think the fact that I can use the battery and have it perform so well in an environment it most likely was not intended to be in speaks volumes of its quality.

Want Odyssey PC625 Powersports Battery Discount?

A bigger battery might run longer but this battery doesn't weigh much and its easy to carry around.I thought I'd try this one out because of all the good reviews.You can see a video I made of this battery being used on my inflatable boat here with a trolling motor by clicking on ''By Rod Hays ''.The video is on ''Intex Seahawk II Boat Set''

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Samsung SCH-i110 Illusion Battery Charger Kit - Contains multiple charging options, including AC Wa

• Specification: Samsung SCH-i110 Illusion Supported, Dimensions: 2.0 X 4.0 X 0.5 inches, Power Input: 110-240 VAC, USB Output Power: 5.0 VDC
• Intuitive color coded LED light indicators display when the battery is properly connected, in charging state, and fully charged. Super easy to use!
• Gomadic Kit includes ability to charge the Samsung SCH-i110 Illusion battery from a variety of power sources including AC wall outlets, DC car cigarette ports, or any standard USB port
• Fast, light weight, flexible and very compact form factor. Advanced internal circuitry protects from power surges, accidental reverse polarity, and overcharging.
• A quality product backed by the comprehensive Gomadic Lifetime Warranty.

The port on my phone was messed up so I wasn't able to recharge my battery. I checked around for battery chargers and I was told there was no such thing for my phone, but they were wrong. This is Perfect for me. It took me a few minutes to figure out how to line up the two prongs to the battery, but wow it's so simple. They really thought of everything, with the attachments i'm able to recharge my battery in my car. I totally love this product, amazing price, I cannot say enough, this product literally saved me more than a hundred dollars. Thank you Gomadic!!

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Veho VBC-001-BLK SAEM Bluetooth Handsfree Car kit with Motion Sensor Power Save Function (2 years S

• Unique AMS (automated shutdown sensor) technology with human body sensor for energy saving and extended battery life
• Extended battery life with 32 hours talk time, 66 days standby time, 2 years standy in sleep mode
• Crystal clear call quality by eliminating wind noise and echo with automatic volume control
• Multi point pairing with upto 8 devices and use 2 devices simultaneously using Bluetooth version 2.1 +EDR
• Proximity auto pairing to automatically pair your mobile phone and car kit

I chose this model because it does not have an FM transmitter. I'm already using a satellite radio receiver which is transmitting on FM so I wanted something which was entirely independent and stand-alone. This was it. The battery life advertised is one of the best I've seen. There's a detector which puts it into sleep mode when you're not around to save on the battery.

Sitting in my car and quietly listening to the radio, this device would fall asleep until I moved my hand. Then, it would wake up, each time playing a little tune. If you flip the sun visor down, the motion detector is pointed away from me so it will fall asleep and play a little tune. hummph. No way to disable the motion detector or the wake-up and sleep tunes.

The bluetooth would also stay connected when I went inside so, when I wanted the unit to go to sleep it wouldn't.

There's a little blue flashing light when you're connected. While you're driving, might get annoying especially at night. But, that I can disable by pressing the + and buttons together. Great. But, as soon as the unit sleeps and wakes up the light returns. Not so great.

The good news is that I found a method which works for me. There is a master power switch right on the front edge. When I'm on a call, I just switch the unit on and the call is transferred automatically without any button pushing. iPhone does this for me. If your phone does not, you can simply transfer the call manually by pressing the button on the unit. I haven't tried answering a call yet but should be fine.

Despite the fact that Apple disabled Siri on my iPhone 3GS, they did leave me a few undocumented voice commands, such as "dial." Holding the button down on the unit for a second or two, I hear a tone from the unit, then a tone from the phone, then I can voice dial. Pressing the button when the phone is ringing will pick up the call. I found it to be not perfect e.g. one time I pressed the button on the unit and my iPhone started playing music, but I blame Apple for that.

The mic has good quality. No problems with voice commands. I left myself a voicemail and listened back typical cell phone sounding quality but I'm happy with it. I do not need to shout into the mic, but speaking clearly helps. The speaker is loud and clear, surprising quality for a small, flat speaker. And, when I heard the message I left for myself it didn't sound like I was in an echo chamber or even on a speaker phone.

Seems to take about 5 seconds to connect when I power it on, so I'm just keeping the unit off until I need to make or receive a call. This way I don't need to mess with the bluetooth connecting, disconnecting, motion detector timing out, not timing out, flashing blue light, etc.

Totally satisfied it's not perfect, but what it does it does well. I think it's the best out there. For the price, I'd say go for it and upgrade when something better comes out.

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Pairing up this unit was very easy. Once fully charged I installed the clip, attached it to my visor and turned it on. Later that day, I went for a ride and called my wife. She said the sound quality was as good as when I use the phone by itself with minimal background noise. She also said there was a slight echo, but it must have been the cell connection because the echo hasn't happened on calls since then. Although the sound quality is good enough to understand what is being said, the sound quality leaves a little to be desired. The small speaker lacks the dynamic range that the cell phone is capable of (all mid frequencies, similar to a standard wired phone or small transistor radio), and tends to be slightly distorted with the volume maxed out when the caller speaks loudly (-1 star for sound quality and lack of FM broadcast).

The feature that really makes this unit an easy sell for me is the automatic power up and standby modes controlled by the built in motion sensor. All you have to do is get in your car and the unit turns itself on, as opposed to most units that you have to touch a button or flip a switch to turn it on. For me, this feature totally makes this unit the best choice above all others. Other units turn on and off when it senses the paired Bluetooth unit near it, which eats battery power if you have your car in the driveway and you are moving in and out of Bluetooth range in your house or business. I've had this unit for about three weeks and am still working off the original two hour charge. It uses lithium batteries, so the unit is smaller than most others, and the charge should last the same or longer than other hands free units.

Overall, I am very pleased with the Veho Saem speakerphone unit and highly recommend it.

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This product is terrific. easy to set up, use, and great voice and speaker. and.......did I mention battery life.........wow!

I like it so much, that I will purchase another one.

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I just recharge it once, and useing it over two months until today. very good quality for sound. I love it.

PAC PAC-200 200 Amp Power Relay

So far I have 4 of these in 4 ea. 1 year old trucks running optima D31 batteries and inverters inside, along with this isloator model to prevent load on the truck's starting battery. One truck is equipped with dual D31's for extended inverter runtime.

With 48 truck-months of usage we've had no failures or trouble of any kind, if you are interested we also wired two trucks with the ability to jumpstart themselves using this (it's rated for 300A surge). It does mean an extra wire and switch inside the cab but beats bringing the jumper cart out in the weather.

During the year of use, there have been no more emergency jump starts, no more dead trucks on monday, and the inverter systems have run fine. With the extra current from the alternator we can run the inverters (I'll admit a hodgepodge of models purchased at different times) for extended periods of time as needed to support heavy power tools to cell phone chargers.

Drivers do appreciate the "clunk" this isolator makes when engaged. The audible noise lets you know the two electrical systems are tied.

I would recommend a shunt style ampmeter if room permits.

Install as described, No worries...Koool to hear switch clunk when you turn on accessory! Solid sounding, well made...

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You need one of these for that second battery install. Easy to install, no worries...

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Ive had this on my sc300 because a alternator cost 230 and a battery is 160 for the car so i want to avoid paying that out AGAIN! i bought a kinetik 600 battery and this and niether one of them has went dead yet. now its not going to eliminate power lost after about 40mins at night my lights still start to dim.but as long as my car still starts up this rely is doing its job

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Huge fan of the relay. Not only does it save the battery up front from dying out on me, but if the battery up front ever dies, it's a flip of a switch and boom! Jump start with no cables. Little extra wiring, but so worth it. I use it to isolate three commercial grade batteries from my optima red top up front, and it works wonders!

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Motorola Installed Handsfree Car Kit

I've installed two of these kits with no problems. While the instructions are "sketchy", they do have what you need to know in the two pages for your given language. Installation time varies with the vehicle, access under-dash, skill of the installer, but is pretty much "easy". The product itself works well and does what it is supposed to do...free you from headsets while driving and provide good quality sound in both directions.

Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 2006 Toyota RAV4 With Do-It-Yourself Programming

This key worked perfectly for me! Great alternative to paying $200+ at the dealership. I tried Home Depot and a couple of other hardware stores to have the key cut, but it was too large to fit into their machines.They recommended trying a locksmith, which I did, and they were able to cut the key in just a couple of minutes for free. After the key is cut, follow the programming directions which I admit, took me a few attempts until I had it memorized, but it really is simple. As a previous poster mentioned, you need to make sure that your car does not require an anti-theft microchip in the key. The computer device inside my key had fallen out and my broken key still started the car, so I knew this wasn't necessary for me.

The keys are good and programming them to open the doors was easy.

Unfortunately the keys WILL NOT start your car until you take your car and the keys to a locksmith ($125) or the dealer ($300) to have the anti-theft chip programmed.

The ad says "Easy programming at home, no dealership hassle!" but it's not true unless you want to open the door, but not drive the car.

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This product worried me when I was trying to figure out whether or not it was the correct key. I took it to Ace Hardware, Home Dept, Lowes, two local locksmiths, and none of them had the machine that could fit the key due to it's large push button handle. I finally found a locksmith that had the correct machine and $5 later I was ready to program it. Programming was a piece of cake and took no longer than 5 minutes. Just follow the directions. Key works great! Ordering a second one now for my wife.

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I've received the ordered product.

I've cut the key to specs as instructions said

I've programmed the open/close remote control and it does not work (I followed the instructions carefully to ensure I wasn't making a mistake). Don't know what to do with the key now.

To make matters worse the key does not start the ignition. It fits the key hole, does start the stater motor, but the main engine doesn't kick in afterwards

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This key may work fine in other cars, but it lacks the internal chip required to start the ignition. I wish they had been clearer about it in the description, because I'm out $44! It's probably a great product if you don't need that chip, just check before buying!

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FUSION 7" 2-Way Marine Speakers - 260W

• Waterproof Yes
• Watts 260w
• QTY Pair
• Mounting Style NONE
• Main Cone Size (Inches) NONE

Very impressed with the Price! Could not find a better deal any were period. Came with Three different Grills! I have a fusion 50 series marine 2x40W Stereo installed in my 17' Center console and its Pretty loud for only 2x40W can hear it ok at Full throttle with a 70hp Four stroke in Choppy water. Will be upgrading to a amp in the future! For now it sounds good for a budget project.

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good pduct good sound, good price meet expextations. OK Ok Ok Ok Ok OK Ok Ok Ok Ok Ok Ok

Garmin nüvi 3760LMT 4.3-Inch Widescreen Bluetooth Portable GPS Navigator with Lifetime Map & Traff

• 4.3-Inch LCD Screen
• Preloaded with street maps for the U.S., Canada & Mexico
• Lifetime map updates
• Lifetime traffic updates
• Lane assist with Junction View
• Bluetooth wireless technology

This is my second Garmin Nuvi GPS. My first was a Nuvi 360 and it still works after more than 4 years. I decided it was time to upgrade to a newer version after having my old one for so many years. Some of the features that caused me to choose the 3760LMT were the lifetime maps and traffic, Lane Assist, Junction View, trafficTrends, and myTrends. If you're looking for additional reviews for this unit, you can search for the 3760T, which is the same unit, minus the lifetime map updates.

Pros: The wide screen is a great improvement over the smaller screen I was used to on the 360. The color is much more vivid and the screen is much brighter. Even during a sunny day, I have the brightness turned down. I had my old 360 up to max brightness and it was difficult to see in bright sunlight. The sound is also much louder on the 3760. I had the sound on max for my 360. The 3760 has the volume at less than half and it is plenty loud enough to hear above the road noise.

Two functions I think should be a must for any unit are Lane Assist and Junction View. Lane Assist shows you which lanes you need to be in when approaching a junction on a freeway. So far, I have noticed that it is quite accurate as to the number of lanes and picking the right lanes to be in. Junction View shows you a rendered picture of what the junction signs you are approaching look like and an arrow is included showing with route to take. The junction signs shown in the 3760 are, for the most part, what you actually see on the highway. When the junction view is shown, it is up for only a few seconds and then the unit reverts back to the map display. When shopping for a unit, I highly recommend these options.

Another great function is the Trip Planner. With my old unit, I used to have to manually move to a starting point on the map, then select my destination to determine travel time for a proposed trip. Now, with the Trip Planner, the 3760 allows me to plan trips, including the entry of a desired arrival time, which shows a suggested departure time taking into account travel time for the trip. You can save the trips and then call them up when you're ready for them. This is another must-have option.

I was also really looking forward to the traffic information being delivered directly to the unit. With my 360, I had to use a smart phone to get traffic information, which was not very convenient while driving in traffic. I don't live in an area where traffic information is broadcast, but I do travel to Los Angeles frequently. My take so far on how well the traffic information works is that it is better than nothing. I've noticed that it is not always completely accurate. I've hit slowdowns that didn't show on the unit. I have also seen it be very accurate. I was traveling westbound on a stretch of freeway in an area where the eastbound traffic was moving very slow. The map showed the point where the eastbound slow traffic began, which corresponded closely to where the slowdown actually started. When traffic information is being received, a traffic icon shows up in the upper left of the screen. The icon turns yellow for slow traffic ahead and red if traffic is really jammed. The unit automatically re-routed me once when traffic on my route was report as red. The route it chose was the same one I would have chosen had I known about the traffic jam. If the traffic is reported as slow, you can ask for a suggested alternate route. The unit displays the travel time for the main route and the alternate route so that you can make a decision of whether the alternate route is worthy of consideration. If you have your estimated arrival time displayed, the traffic function updates your arrival time to include traffic slowdowns. When it is receiving traffic information, the displayed estimated arrival time is much more accurate.

Cons: Reception of traffic information is not flawless. The unit occasionally loses the traffic data connection. Powering the unit off and then back on restored the connection.

A major problem I have with this unit is that it stops drawing the map after it has been running continuously for about 3 hours. I noticed that another reviewer of the 3760T reported the same problem. My guess is this is caused by a software problem and, hopefully, it will be resolve in a future update. The only way I can avoid this problem is to turn the unit off and then power it back on every couple of hours during a long trip. This is rather annoying for a GPS that costs more than $400.

I can't say whether trafficTrends and myTrends are good options or not, because I've seen no evidence that either is doing anything. It's possible that I haven't driven in the same area enough where traffic data is available for this option to kick in. However, I would have thought there would be some indication of myTrends working. The way I understood myTrends was that the unit would watch where you like to drive and then start routing you that way. I have a route I travel frequently that has a shorter by-pass, which I always avoid since it's only a 2-lane highway. My 3760 has not realized that I don't take that by-pass, because it tries to get me to take it every time. My recommendation for these 2 options is to skip them and save some money. If you commute every day in a big city, maybe these might be useful.

When searching for a location in another city, the unit does not display the resulting city list in order of distance from your current location. I'm not sure what criteria it uses to order the list. At a point about 250 miles from Los Angeles, CA, when trying to select a location near Los Angeles, the resulting city list shows Los Angeles, CA as the 45th entry on the list. Paging down 5 at a time, 9 times, to get to the desired city is not very convenient.

In summary, knowing what I know now, I would probably have chosen the 1490LMT instead. It has all of the functions that I find useful in the 3760. But, at around $200, it's a much better value.

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I have read many reviews here and would like to address the negative ones:

When I first connected the 3760, I could not acquire satellites. Having read the nightmares about four hours of updating only to have failure to load, or failure to restart, I was nervous about trying to update the 3760. I figured I might have to return it.

I went to the Garmin update and downloaded the updates to my PC. I turned on the 3760 and plugged it into the pc, and then followed the update wizard. I updated the firmware and some voice updates. The process took about 5 minutes!! I have an Intel quad 7 processor, so an older PC might take a bit longer.

I then set up to take about an hour trip. The 3760 found satellites and calculated the route in less than 30 seconds. I love the screen clarity, and the external speaker gives sufficient volume. Then I intentionally went off route and the 3760 recalculated in less than 10 seconds!

I bought the 3760 because my TomTom took 5-10 minutes to startup and calculate routes, and it was hard to hear with any kind of cabin noise. It took a long time to recalculate as well.

Needless to say, I am completely satisfied with the 3760's performance and highly recommend it--just be careful to have the unit fully charged before updating--and follow the instructions.

Cheers

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I upgraded from my 765T, which I have been enjoying for couple of years, mainly due to:

1. One of the best designed windshield mount in the industry, my old Tomtom kept falling all the time.

2. Removing the unit from the cradle is a such joy!

3. Multiple routing planning.

However its touch screen is horrible, basically useless. And I thought its map is out of date.

I have high hope for this beauty, upon playing it for couple of days, I noticed that:

1. When traffic indicator turns red, it doesn't give estimated delayed time anymore! I can't believe they removed one of the most useful feature...

2. The mini USB cable has an awkward angle into the cradle, why can't they make it flush and straight?

3. The routing algorithm seems to give quite some odd suggestions.

4. Only two customizable data fields, such a waste of high resolution screen estate. Tomtom beats it hands down. Come on give us more choices!

5. I did a map update yesterday, and noticed that it doesn't include a big highway on/off ramp changes, which happened about a year ago, so i'm not sure how up to date / accurate they are, it somehow defeats the claimed "life time map update" feature, which is quite disappointing . I also noticed some express way have wrong number of lanes.

6. Still no speed-sensitive automatic volume adjustment, such a bummer.

I kinda regret my "upgrade", and think they are going backwards on some essential features.

Update on 6/14

1. The auto power off some times doesn't work, when ended up draining the battery.

2. Sometime the lane guidance is complete messed up. i.e. one a two lane road it shows a 6 lanes!

3. The POI seach is not intuitive at all, I have to use "go to", then choose "near start, on the route, near destination", why can't they simply show POIs on the map, then let user to pan/zoom? Almost every major online map software offer that feature...

Update on 7/1

I noticed the shining "chrome" top edge caused a lot of glare under California sun. So much so it blinds my eye, I think they should make the top edge more matt like. It won't be as cool, but more pratical and safer.

Update on 9/13

1. I upgraded the map/firmware to 2012.20, and noticed it shows a split screen of map/visual on exit, as opposed to visual only, which is quite nice.

2. I also noticed that exit view is very photo realistic, so much so upon close inspection I figured it's actually from REAL photos (judging from the shape of tree and lighting pole), which is quite amazing consider the amount of data to be squeezed in!

3. Quite often it crashed (auto powered off) for no apparent reason.

4. Quite often the arriving time is messed up badly, for example I arrived at 6pm, but on the GPS it says 9pm.

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Getting used to a GPS with traffic-sensitive routing takes some getting used to, but the more I use it, the more I like it.

I bought this unit, refurbished, for under $200 when starting a new job, and I needed fast route calculations (and re-calculations), larger display, free map updates, and an input method that could be used safely without having to pull over. I got all that with the 3790LMT.

I have a smart phone with Google maps, but felt that a dedicated GPS was better. Typing an address on a touch-QWERTY keyboard while driving is just too dangerous. A snap--in holder-standard with any GPS--is an expensive extra for a phone, and you will have to attach the power cord separately. Maps don't show up if you are in an area with no cell phone coverage. And running GPS on a smartphone makes it heat up quite a bit, and wears down the battery.

First off, I want to comment on the negatives that others have talked about: Ads, and unit running hot. I have not seen a single pop-up ad, and yes I use the live traffic feature. As far as running hot, it does, but seems to be built for it.

I work in and around Boston, and have to drive to client sites during rush hour almost daily. The routing around traffic quite helpful; I have learned more in three months than in years about how to get around some traffic chokepoints.

One feature I have come to depend on is the ability to find Parking near where I am, and the matching feature, to find where you Parked; if you remove the unit from the holder while the power is still applied, it auto-magically assumes you've parked the car. Then, after completing my service call, I just Find Last Parking, and I am guided back to my car. No buttons to push, no Apps to load and remember.

The voice commands work better than I expected. For my regular clients, I can call up Favorites, select one, and start Navigation without having to take my hands off the steering wheel. It doesn't work as well for an unknown address, so I use the touch screen for that, but with predictive typing for City, and Street, it's safe enough.

The screen's high resolution helps compensate for my older eyes, and I chose this over a larger screen but with lower resolution. A larger screen would have not fit in a pocket, and would have had a short (if any) battery life.

The 3790 does seem to adapt to 'learn' my common routes, and will often advise me of distance, and estimated time to a location even if I haven't told it where I am going. At first I questioned some of the routing choices, but either it has learned, or I have, and we are generally in agreement. If I chose a different route, it senses quickly, and will often recalculate in the time it takes to get to the bottom of an exit ramp.

I use the speakerphone feature, and it synced my work Blackberry contact list right up, easier to read on the nuvi than on the phone itself.

I just did my first quarterly map update, and the whole process took a little over an hour; slow but better (according to reviews) than it used to be.

In all, I got all that I expected and then some when I purchased this unit. Well worth the $170 (refurb).

I go way back with Garmin, way before the Nuvi models came out. The thing about Garmin is they stand behind their products 100% I have dealt with their tech support and those people are excellent and very helpful. This new generation of Nuvi's blew me away. You get a lot of bang for your buck on the 3760LMT model I just purchased on Amazon. Since this is my 5th Garmin and like I mentioned I been with them from the beginning this model is outstanding. Free lifetime maps, Free Traffic and when your using it its intuitive to your traffic patterns. It looks ahead for you and tells you how long until you hit your next favorite destination. Like I tell all my friends you wont go wrong with a Garmin.

DEWALT Bare-Tool DC515B 18-Volt Cordless 1/2 Gallon Wet/Dry Portable Vacuum (Tool Only, No Battery)

Its a little noisy, but thats because it's actually doing something. If you already own 18 volt DeWalt tools, batteries, and a charger, then this is a really nice all-purpose tool to have around for a reasonable price. I haven't used it with any fluids yet, but it seems to have enough power to do that with no problem. The quick-change-quick-charge batteries are just as handy on this as they are on all of the other DeWalt tools. This won't do what a shop vac does, but it handles medium-small particles nicely. It doesn't come with any tools other than the detachable hose. The pictures are not always exceedingly clear, but the hose is normally stretched over the handle and anchored in the small yellow end which serves as the main vacuum nozzle. This "nozzle" is hard plastic with a fixed shape, but it seems to work well for most encounters. The detachable hose stretches out a few feet so it reaches about as far as an arm can reach, making it is handy, too. I think that this is worthy of the DeWalt name.

O.K., this thing is a beautiful piece of equipment. Don't listen to all the nit-picking garbage of some of these other reviews.

1) Yes, it is a bit on the loud side. The motor has virtually no sound insulation with the obvious reason of keeping the weight and size minimal. This really is not a big deal as you are probably only using it for a couple minutes at a time. I'm actually a bit shocked that so many people seem to have such a problem with the noise. From the reviews you'd think that they are holding a jet engine in their hand. If you have any experience with power tools or shop vacs, the noise is a non-issue, just don't use it next to someone napping on the couch!!

2) The suction power for its size and weight is exceptionally good. It is SO much better than a traditional hand vacuum that it's really not comparable. My Hoover wet-dry hand vac was instantly rendered pointless and offered to my neighbor as a gift.

3) No, the capacity is not terribly large, but it is not designed for picking up a great deal of material. If you're concerned about this, know that opening the container and emptying it is extremely simple and quick. If it's still not big enough, you obviously need a shop vac, not this.

4) Yes, if you are vacuuming up fine particles such as drywall dust or fine sawdust, the filter clogs fairly quickly and you will start to lose suction. The filter is probably actually a bit TOO good for very fine particles. Nothing gets through it. Both a positive and negative really. My recommendation is to simply remove the cylinder type filter after EVERY use with fine material and clean it by smacking it a few times on your palm over a garbage can, preferably outside. The filter comes out extremely easily after the collection container is removed. Just a quarter turn and it pops off. Simple and fast. As a general rule, cleaning the filter regularly is a must to keep the suction high.

On the whole, an excellent item. I would however recommend to anyone from Dewalt reading these reviews to seriously consider including a crevice tool to attach to the hose. It would be an excellent addition and could be mounted on some sort of external clip on the side of the housing or perhaps the housing itself could have a storage opening engineered into the body of the housing itself to slide the tool into to store it when not using it. Other than this minor gripe, I have no complaints. I intend to go out and find a crevice tool that fits the hose, 1 1/4 inch, but I really shouldn't have to at this price, it should come with one.

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Just got this vacuum today and it is great. Has wonderful suction. Other reviews talk about it being noisy. This is not true. It is no louder than any other dust buster. I bought it without the battery as we have plenty of them from other Dewalt tools. I have already thrown away my dust buster. Highly recommend it.

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I call this One-Bad-Mamma-Jamma dustbuster! My wife calls it the Roach-Sucker. If you pull the hose out of the nozzle you can stretch it out and chase down even the most wiley roach. Just get the nozzle close the the little runner and he's toast. Oh, remember to empty it out before the roach starts decaying in the bin...

This is not a toy like every useless rechargeable dustbuster. It's a real shopvac, just smaller. It has enough suction to replace a low-end shop vac, but be warned, it is about as loud as a full size vac too.

The bare tool is a great way to get the vac at a reasonable price if you already have an 18v drill or whatever. You'll toss out the crappy little dust buster and never look back. Just be careful cleaning up really fine dusty messes, it is difficult to clean stuff like drywall dust out of the filter.

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I got this for my wife as a portable vac for the house. I was tired of the home, portable vacs that die all the time and only last a few years. Although this is a little bigger and heavier, it has twice the power and capacity and, can suck up liquids as well, and is easier to empty. I will build a rack to hang it in a closet. It only costs about 20% more than the poor quality portable home vacs. Because I have 1/2 a dozen Dewalt tools that use this battery (I have 4 batteries and two chargers), I know I will always have a charged battery for the unit. It doesn't come with any attachments but I found that my central vac tools fit on the Dewalt hose (which is quite short by the way). Believe it or not, it was a perfect Christmas present for her. She was thrilled!

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Garmin Nuvi 710 750 755T 760 765T GPS 110-230 A/C AC Wall Charger Accessory Adapter Cable Comparabl

• Designed for Garmin Nuvi 600 610 650 660 670 680 710 750 755T 760 765T 770 5000 GPS Navigators
• Custom designed to connect to Garmin's 18-pin connector socket on the GPS or GPS Cradle.
• Powers and charges your Garmin GPS Navigator at the same time ! 6-feet cord.
• Durable and High Quality Construction ! One Year Limited Warranty.
• Comparable to Garmin 010-11107-00 AC Wall Charger with special Garmin 18-pin connector.

I have a Garmin Nuvi 765T in front of me and there's no place the pictured connector would fit. The 765T uses a mini-USB plug for external charging. If I'm not mistaken this applies to most current and recent Garmins.

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We use this when traveling and it has come in handy on several occasions. Highly recommend for anyone who needs an alternative charging system.

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This wall charge is something I got as an auxiliary aide when I bought my GPS so that if needed, I could charge my Garmin GPS from an ordinary 110V AC wall socket if I had to do some extensive programming in the house, or if the GPS hadn't been used for a while and it needed to be charged to be ready for a trip.

It turns out that I have never had to use it! The battery in the Garmin GPS holds a charge sufficiently well that a wall charger wasn't necessary. But the dealer sold it at a good price, delivered it quickly and it was nicely packaged. So, kudos for the dealer for being an honorable merchant!

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The unit arrived in a very reasonable period of time.

Short instruction manual contained inadequate how-to information (green attempt by Garvin, they say). Other than that, with the information available on line, the unit does what it claimed.

I have had the nuvi 780 for about a month and yesterday, received a lowbattery notification on-screen, which replaced the map while I was using it for directions to a distant location.

The low-battery notification occurred while the unit was plugged into a working DC cigarette lighter outlet in the car and required the nuvi to be turned off since the notification replaced the on-screen map.

The on-screen information is excellent easy to read and interpret.

The mounting hardware supplied with the unit is excellent in all respects.

The nuvi speaker audio is rather poor quality but the use of a cassette adapter with the car stereo is very good. (I have not tried to use the NUVIs FM output to the car radio but reviews say it is too lacking in power to be useful and my antenna is rear mounted.)

The NUVIs routing voice notifications are bit difficult to understand but they are much better than nothing; it requires getting used to.

Check to see if MS Direct information (trial version comes with the nuvi) is available in your area if you want this service. (It isn't in my area but seems to be available in most or all larger metropolitan areas.)

UPG UT4L-BS Adventure Power Power Sport AGM Series Dry Charge AGM Battery

I have two TaoTao ATVs for my kids. I didn't do a good job on maintaining the charge in the batteries, so had to pay the price of replacing them both. Didn't realize such small batteries would cost so much, but I'm glad I found this one on Amazon the first replacement that I bought at Walmart was considerably more expensive. They look almost identical. Putting in the acid oneself sounds more scary than it really is just follow the instructions provided.

I was wary of having to pour in the liquid, but it works nicely, and is safe if you follow the directions carefully. I use this with a 49cc scooter, and it works very reliably. I wish the nuts were not so easily lost, and I wonder why they are not a permanent part of the posts.

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Battery is fully filled with electtotype so no worry about burning or itching your hands.

It works great and I have no complain since it is better than the one I got along with the motocycle. However, I think I need to do some work with my starter and fuel line.

Keep the good UPG.

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can not keep a charge longer enough to start a 50cc gas scooter. what a poor battery. no where on the ad did it say it was a 3 amp battery when a 6 amp battery was needed. i don't know what is wrong with it but something is just not right.

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After 10 months the battery died. Disappointing. It should have lasted longer.It was not a SLA battery just simply a dry charge battery you add acid to.

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Keyless Entry Remote Fob Clicker for 2004 Toyota RAV4 With Do-It-Yourself Programming

We tried programming it numerous times and each failed. Eventually I found a different set of instructions online and they worked. Two of the steps were out of order.

I had to go through the instructions twice before it worked but it did it exactly as described. Very easy and excellent customer service. Much cheaper route then going here locally which quoted me $595!!!!!!

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This item arrived quickly and was super easy to program with the included instructions. A heck-of-alot cheaper than working with a dealership, too.

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This keyless remote was excellent. My husband had to program it, as I couldn't. It works perfectly and I am most pleased with it.

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Power Hunt Dual Power (120VAC/12VDC) Portable Microwave Oven: Appliance Only - 12V Operation from C

I bought this little microwave so my wife could warm her lunches while on the road. It works great for that. CAUTION! My one concern is that this ships without a fuse for the battery cable. I had to order and install that correctly. If you install this in your vehicle, do not install it without adding a 12 volt 50 amp fuse to protect your vehicle. If this thing shorts out, and it isn't fused, you could burn down you vehicle.

Before I purchased this microwave which is the latest version, I debated over using a regular 700W microwave with my 1500W inverter.

What won me over was a number of factors:

1. dual power feature to move the unit from vehicle to vehicle; little more difficult with a heavy external inverter

2. light weight; lightest non-portable in same class size was about 8lbs more; iWave is lighter but smaller

3. door opens like an oven; ideal for confined vehicular space; serves as a table, too

4. customer support seems to be pretty responsive and accountable; BIG PLUS!

Cons:

1. expensive; could get a regular microwave and inverter for less

2. construction?; time will tell; my 1st unit was shipped slightly damaged and scratched up (as well as 2nd unit); Lexan plastic? material which scratches easily anyways

3. does not come with alligator clips; requires permanent (screw/bolt on) connection

4. low power and nonuniform heating, despite claim of scanning technology; input 600+Watts; OUTPUT only 420+WATTS!

Result:

1. Boil 12 ounces of room temp. water: 11 minutes!!! (ceramic mug)

2. Microwave dinner mash potatoes (takes forever) 7 minutes; everything else cooks about 4-5 minutes

3. Will be more effective if you rev the engine while it is running; possibly due to higher voltage; the 8 ft. cable is of high quality (very flexible with accurate gauge wiring); voltage drop for the 8ft, I believe is not optimal; recommend cut as short as possible; 12.4-12.5V at least is recommended

I have not had a chance to test it off road, yet.

One side note is, I was curious and bought a microwave leak detector and it passed with flying colors. However, it will cause interference with your wifi signal if you use it! This is not common with every microwave, though, including my kitchen mounted on.

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Goal Zero 14001 3-Watt Estrella Light

Great Light! Lights up you campsite really well. the only problem (and the reason it isn't 5 stars) is the cable that connects it to battery is a little finnickey. It never cuts out on its own but if you bump it the wrong way it flickers and sometimes you have to readjust the cable. Not really bad enough though for me to complain. I have four of them chained to a sherpa 50 and i gotta say it's really sweet. If you want to light up your basecamp this is the way to go. Best prices are on Amazon as well.

like the light-a-life it also uses 3 watts of power, but unfortunately it only gives out half the light (160 lumens vs 270.) just like the light a life installation is easy and only limited by one's imagination. the main advantage this light has over the light a life is how much smaller it is this light is the size of a large tap light which comes in handy. if you have room for the light a life (about the size of a desk lamp) go for that as it is cheaper and puts out more light but this is definitely the next best choice when it comes to portability

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This little light is just amazing! If the cost was just a bit lower I would buy 10 of these things. Great product!

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I did not like this product, but maybe thats because I had a bad experience with the Sherpa. Would not purchase again.

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