Scosche EWFH Single ANL Fuse Holder

• Platinum-Plated Wiring Terminals and Accessories
• Durable Finish and Conductivity
• 2- and 4-Position Distribution Blocks Along With A Wide Range Of Fuse Sizes
• Easy Installation Of Multiple Amplifier Combinations

... For a 1000 watt 12VDC system.

Fuses for 12VDC can not have much drop across the fuse because the battery (fully charged) is 12.8 VDC and the battery is considered "drained" at 10.5 VDC. That's only 2.3 V of drop in your entire system including wires, connectors, fuses, and the battery. It's better if you have an alternator and engine running but they'll give you 124A or so while the battery can deliver 1000 amps. At 1000 watts constant power you will pull 115 Amps that leaves you with 0.02 ohms for your entire wiring system to run 1000W with a charged battery and 2.3 V drop. If your battery is running low, consider it more like 0.01 ohms of max system loss. If your engine is on up at 14VDC you get some slack so long as your alternator battery link is good.

You still need a fuse in the system though because the alternatives working with these power levels are arcwelding.

These high current fuses are optimal for such systems. For 1000W consider a minimum of 150 amps or possibly a 200 amp fuse. The clear plastic covers protect the screwdown terminals from stray metal and let you get a visual on the fuse status should it blow (it won't be pretty if it does blow stopping a 115A DC current is going to produce a nasty arc and will also leave smoke inside the cover no problem telling if the fuse blew!

A little secret if you wonder why it is so hard to stop high power (200+ amps) DC and easy with AC it's that with 60Hz AC the voltage is exactly zero 60 times per second and usually stops on its own, so your arc lasts for a maximum of 1/60th second and with a sine wave source it naturally tapers down to zero where it stops. DC will go on forever if the gap isn't large enough.

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I bought this to be a fuse between a set of batteries and my inverter that powers a subpanel at my house for back-up capabilities. The casing and ANL fuse holder worked as intended. I was using 2 guage welder cable with a large 1/2" ring adapter. The fuse holder had no problems closing down over the connector and wire. It is nice beign able to see the fuse indicator as well to see if I had a problem or surge. This device gives me a peace of mind when it comes to saving my very expensive xantex prosine 2.5 from overloading on the DC side.

The cost is low and the feeling of safety is great. The plastic didnt' seem overly cheap and the stainless nuts and washers seemed quality. Very happy with the purchase.

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I like these better then the other inline fuse because they are well covered and easy to replace and tell if they are blown.

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holds the fuse, plastic cover a little brittle, needs a good amount of force to snap cover on, it is not water tight, looks good

Product as described and fits Raptor RANL2002 200 Amp ANL Fuses perfectly. It is a little bulky, but does it's job. You WILL need something to help insulate or fill in the gap between the wire and case on the ends as shown in the picture. I would also suggest some sealant of some kind to keep the case closed tightly and sealed; especially if not in a waterproof area. And if used correctly, it should be within 3 ft of the battery anyway.