2002-2006 Nissan Altima Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob w/ Free DIY Programming Instructions

I honestly thought this would be total crap and took the chance anyway and THEY WORK GREAT. They look and feel like the original, too. I purchased 2 of these remotes for my 02 Altima and googled for the programming instructions. I found this site and followed the instructions. I pasted the necessary steps below. Note: I did have to replace one of the remote batteries almost immediately, no stars off for that. He gets 5 stars for price-quality ratio

ID Code Entry Procedure

To enter the ID code, follow this procedure:

"Setting Mode":

1. Close and lock all doors.

2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will flash twice). At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated.

ID Code Entry:

3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position

4. Push the "lock" button on the new remote control once(for example, if the door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice).

Additional ID code Entry:

5. If you need to activate additional remote control units, unlock the drivers door, then lock it again(WITH THE DOOR LOCK SWITCH).

6. Push the lock button on the additional remote once.

7. This ID code enable state and setting mode will remain until the drivers door is opened.

NOTE!!

* If you need to activate more than two additional keyless remotes, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote.

* If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored.

*Entry of a maximum of four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored.

*Any ID codes entered after termination of the "Setting Mode" will not be accepted. Additional keyless remote signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the setting mode.

I normally do not write reviews. This product was shipped quickly with very easy to follow instructions. I took it out of the mailbox and immediately was able to set the remote with no problems. The directions were very simple.

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This is a great seller got what I paid for. not like the one from Hong Kong. It said keyless remote all they sent me was the shell.

thank you for being honest, and also for being cost effective

Happy New Year

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i purchased this remote control for my friends 2005 Altima... it didnt come with instruction.. but after emailing the seller i got the instruction and it worked very well.. very happy with this product.

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comes with instructions 1 min and your done with programming.

Amazed so cheap and so GOOD.

Now if I could just remember where I put my keys.

Viair 00088 88P Portable Air Compressor

70p

15% duty cycle which means you should only run it for 1.5 minutes and let it cool down for 8.5 minutes. Then you can start again.

1.27 cfm @0 ps

20 ft maximum reachi

Cigarette lighter adapter

Kit bag

Overall it's a great little compressor but for light duty.

85p

40% duty cycle which means run for 4 minutes, then cool down for 6 minutes.

1.83cfm@0psi

Fills up to 31" tires

13 ft maximum reach

Cigarette lighter adapter

Kit bag

Overall another good compressor but you will blow fuses like there is no tomorrow unless you have a 20 amp cigarette lighter.

The worst part is the reach. 13 ft iwill make it hard to reach tires for mid sized cars and up.

90p

15% duty cycle which is 1.5 minutes of. Run time and 8.5 minutes of cool down time

1.77 cfm@0psi

Fills up to 31"tires

15ft maximimum reach

No cigarette lighter adapter but available if your cigarette lighter uses 30 amp fuses

Kit bag

Overall, bad run time, bad reach for air hose, uses too much power for what it does. Worst out of them all

88p (Save the Best For Last)

45% duty cycle 4.5 minutes run time and 5.5 minutes cool down time (highest out of all of them)

1.98 cfm@0psi (awesome) more air output means less time filling up tires

Fills up to 33" tires

20 ft maximum reach

No cigarette lighter adapter but available and might not blow your fuse if you have a 20 amp. Not sure though because I have not tried

No kit bag but go buy a cheapo from a big box store. It is probably more durable than the kit bags that come with the other kits.

Overall, the best in the price range. Most powerful and it is still just as small as the others. I have a Chevy 2500hd and it fills my tires up fast. The 88p laughs at my wife's range rover sport tires. I never write reviews but I am so impressed with this thing that I had to.

Photo does not show it but there is plenty of air hose and electrical cord included with this compressor.

I am impressed with the quality of construction. The high duty cycle is a plus.

I recommend this to anyone who likes a high quality tool.

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Its amazing how much quieter and FASTER this is as compared to those $20 air inflators.

I think this is the best 12V inflator on the market right now. Comparing the tech specs (Duty Cycle,CFM, PSI) this has the best numbers.

Practically, topping off 15"(sedan) and 17"(suv) tires from 28psi to 34psi is a matter of seconds. It can inflate a flat bike tire to 50psi in about 10-15 seconds as well.

Too early to say anything about reliability and longevity but it seems to be solidly built and has a feel of quality to it. If it lasts I'd say this is the only 12v inflator I will ever need!

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Took delivery of this little compressor last week just in time. My wife drove over a nail and got a slow leak two days later, which the wheel sensors picked up on eventually and flagged. A perfect chance to test the unit.

First I ran around my own car's tires and verified the unit was working as expected, then moved onto the problem tire, which was inflated to working pressure (35 lbs/sqin) from about 15 lbs/sqin in about two minutes, including connect time. Impressive.

My thoughts:

The compressor is light.

The battery clamps could do with being a little larger so I could grip the battery posts on the Honda instead of the post clamp tag.

The built-in fuse is a welcome surprise (it is in a small module about halfway down the wire) and it is great that it is the automotive blade type rather than a cartridge type.

The gauge seems accurate, although as with all these compressors the unit must be turned off to get a reading and the difference between a running reading and a compressor-off reading will need a little practice for some to hit the working pressure without overshooting. I had no problem.

The gauge could be larger for those of us with tired old man eyeballs, but it is ok the way it is.

The unit runs much more quietly than any other compressor of the type I've owned. Those complaining of the noise don't know they are born (said grinning). My old compressor gave twenty years of good, solid, reliable, earsplitting service before it stripped a gear.

The air delivery definitely slows down in stages as the pressure rises. I'm not sure why that is. I was expecting a gradual loss of "oomph" as the little piston worked harder but it seems to go in steps.

I'm in two minds about the screw on connector. On the one hand it makes a very positive seal every time, on the other it is more fiddly than my old push-and-flip-to-lock one. However, experience shows they don't make economy compressors with proper cast quick connectors these days, preferring a cheaper folded metal and silicon seal affair that rarely works as intended but is very good at deflating the tire. All told, the screw connector is a good idea.

Shame it doesn't come in a bag, but I can fix that myself.

Look, I bought one of the cheap compressors you can easily find on Amazon only a few weeks ago, one with great feedback, and it was a piece of absolutely useless junk, fit only to be thrown in a landfill.

*This* compressor works and works well, and comparatively quietly. Yes it's a bit more fiddly to poke about under the hood than to plug in a cigar lighter adapter, but I'd rather that than burn out fuses in my cigar lighter and these Viair compressors seem to be high amperage units, to judge by the feedback. This one comes with hefty wires and is fused so your battery won't boil or explode if the current draw becomes excessive for any reason.

Save yourself the time and bad experience of being caught on the road with a flat and a bad compressor, spend a little more (in my case about $35 more than the landfill model) and get yourself a workmanlike machine that will get the job done.

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This compressor is light years ahead of other cheap compressors I've owned over the years. It is mostly metal, is very rugged and has enough weight such that it does not move at all when it is on and working. My other cheap plastic units would do a river dance on the ground when they were working !

There is lots of length in the battery connection cable (about 7ft 6in) and the hose (12ft) so reaching the rear tire on the opposite side of the car that the battery is on is no problem. Being able to connect it directly to the battery with the sturdy clamps is a godsend as I can't count how many cigarette lighter fuses I've had to replace over the years. This also means you do not need the car keys on hand to use it however obviously you have to get into the car to open the hood. It is very fast in operation and quiet too, you have to be careful to pay attention otherwise you could easily overfill the tire it works so fast. It also has a built in 20 amp replaceable fuse (ATO size) for protection. The hose has a metal connector that screws onto the tire valve, much sturdier and easier to use than the clamp style of connection.

Based on the the overall quality and operation of this unit I think that it's likely this may be the last air compressor I'll ever have to buy. Who knows, maybe it will become a family heirloom handed down from generation to generation :)

Yes, it's not cheap but like most things you get what you pay for. Very highly recommended.

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BATTERY CUTOFF SWITCH CAR RV BOAT RACECAR ATV CUT OFF

We got this to work around a phantom battery drain problem. For that purpose, it has worked very well.

The package, however, contained no directions on how to connect the device to a battery cable. It's a pretty standard terminal clamp, but the 'butt' end has a hole running through it and no clear way to attach a cable intelligently. I ultimately kludged a connection that's not perfect, but there's plenty of room in our engine compartment and we're not vain. If you're starting out with bare wire, expect to buy more hardware. If you connect a battery terminal clamp through the hole in the switch, you may have to do some stretching and risk breaking the clamp. If you have very tight clearances in your engine compartment, you might be in trouble.

Note that some previous reviews mention ease of installation, and some mention problems. I'm willing to believe that it works wonderfully for plenty of situations, but maybe there's variation across battery cables/clamps.

Fits perfectly, FAIRLY easy to install. Careful, though, as the metal is very soft and the first one I put in snapped as I was screwing it in.

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I have a gremlin in the wiring of my motor home and when it sits the battery drains slowly. I put this on the battery (and remember to open it when I leave and close it back when I want to use it) and have had no problems with dead battery from sitting. Added one to my baja bug too.

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Product is very cheap and despite it's appearance is not made of solid brass. The post that you clap your battery cable on cracked and disentigrated with the least pressure. If this will happen with installation, I could imagine what would happen if you were driving and the vibrations from the car resonated through this piece of garbage. Not worth the price nor effort. I didn't even return it , wasn't worth the postage. Next time I will make sure I am buying solid metal or brass , instead of some conductive carbon composite core crap.

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Yes, this is just a simple switch and it has solved my electrical train issue that I have had with my car. My only complaint is that the pseudo post connector (the side that attaches to the car cables) is a bit small and I had to use a shim. If the post size was specified on the description, I would have no complaints at all.

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VR3 VRBCS300W Wireless Back-Up Camera with 2.5" LCD Monitor

I just finished installing this product on my 2006 Honda Odyssey. Several points to share...

1. This product does what everyone thinks it should do--provide a basic back-up camera to your vehicle, with wireless transmission between monitor and camera.

2. The marketing slogans on the package is absolutely misleading. "Installls As Easy as 1... 2... 3..." means prepare yourself for a major 6-hour project (see details below) "No Holes to Drill" means 3 steps of the installation procedure addresses drilling holes on your vehicle, (potentially). The picture of the camera mounting on the visor? No way!!!

3. Here is my installation diary--

Monitor installation--Moderately easy

The manual requires you to "see vehicle's owner's manual for fuse box diagram," if you decide not to do use the cigarette lighter. I wanted to leave it for cell phone chargers so fuse box is the approach I took. Thanks to detailed descriptions in the Honda manual, +12V was connected to a slot not used and the original fuse was used to keep the wire in place. Get your radio code ready, Honda owner, since you will need to unplug the cathode of the battery.

Camera installation--slightly hard

The biggest hurdle for me to install the camera is about how to open up the tailgate area of my Odyssey. After some prying of panels and internet searching to no avail, I decided to order a $75 Honda service manual so that I do not damage my wife's van. A week later (today) book arrived and it showed me exactly how to open up the tailgate panels correctly. If I do not have this book there is no way I can install this camera even if I drill a hole. Now for Odyssey I found a niche right behind the license plate that I can pass the camera wire through, by replacing an original fastener clip. Camera wire would be routed from above the plate to this through hole. Odyssey does not have license plate threads at the bottom of the plate otherwise external wire routing would be easier. Anyway the point is that you will have to find the best way to install the camera for your own vehicle. Next which power source should I need to connect? I do not want to use the reverse light since that means during a parallel parking when I drive forward the reverse light and therefore camera would be off. I debated with my wife if the license plate light would be a better one, but eventually decided to use the extra +12 lighter socket in the back of the van. I cut the redundant lighter plug (for the monitor) and crimped the wires. These wires are therefore visible inside the vehicle and held in place by Velcro stickers.

So here is my summary

Pro: the kit does the job well (right after installation). Control is simple, and image quality is fairly resistant to the dust particles on the camera.

Con: You will need to make your own decisions regarding mechanical and electrical integration of this camera with your car. Particularly if you do not how to find your reverse light wires, you should prepare to find this out before you make your purchase. Installation takes hours but it is full of easy decisions.

Bottom line: At the end of the day safety is all about peace of mind. I am glad VR3 can bring a cheap camera to the market so that I can enjoy my peace of mind in the suburb. If they can create a website with users sharing installation experiences it can take a lot of guesswork away.

I would give this product a 5 if it wasn't for the few points I outlined below.

Overall this product does what it is intended to do. Its cheap in price considering that one does not have to deal with making holes in the vehicle.

Pros...

Wireless (almost, just need to hook up the monitor to the 12v socket)

Ease of hookup, no wires to route through the vehicleand no drilling to place the sensor/camera.

Brightness,contrast settings for day and night viewing.

Display views allow real world view (like if you are turning your head to see while backing up),

broad viewing angle.

Price is cheap enough in case one has to replace the unit if it fails.

Unit can be also hard wired to the vehicle's electrical system.

Cons...

Camera is slightly noticable on the rear license plate.

The depth deception makes objects closer than they really are (which in a way is a plus for me since I don't end up hitting anything thinking its closer), but to others it might be an issue.

The unit uses bluetooth 2.4Ghz which other bluetooth devices can interfere with it. Case in point, I parked along side another vehicle which also has the Roadmaster VR3 and my unit showed what their unit was showing.

The unit is suppose to go on only when backing up, but occasionally while driving past any bluetooth device/building that is using the same frequency the monitor will turn on and show that units view.

The monitor is small, 2.5 inches, and one has to get used to looking at it when parking, but it is clear and in color.

Monitor is fragile, like all LCD units, if dropped, it will ruin the monitor.

Placement of the monitor is dependent on the user and their vehicle, on mine I just left it in the coin area under the middle console.

Overall, using the unit for the past few months I am satisfied with it and it has help me avoid hitting anyone/anything in my rear blind spots.

Aside from the occasional interference with other bluetooth devices, I would have given this unit a perfect score.

TS

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These units are a good idea in theory, but in practice this particular implementation is poor: The picture is very unstable, with continual tearing and noise bars. The touted "110 degree view" is way overstated: I measured two different units and both have barely a 57 degree horizontal view; which is not wide angle enough.

However, these units seem to be still in development, and are evolving: I'm awaiting my third version, and each newer version has been a little better than the prior version. Oddly though, the model numbers are all the same, so you need to ask which version you'll be receiving!

The oldest version of the VR3 camera system comes with only two buttons: One button for power and and one for 'view mode'. The newer version has FOUR buttons: The extra buttons are for brightness and contrast, which is a useful addition. It also have slightly better picture quality. The newest version, one which I've not yet received, is said to have what I consider an essential addition: The new models will have an antenna!

I don't know why they didn't all come with an antenna in the first place, because without one they are basically useless, since the picture is a hopeless mess unless the monitor is within 1 foot of the camera! In fact, I don't understand why they didn't use the body of the vehicle as an 'antenna', which would have guaranteed good reception anywhere inside the vehicle. At one point I asked their technical support about this, and they suggested that I "wrap several sheets of aluminum foil around the back to act as an antenna".

So, while I have to give this 'thumbs down' as they exist today, I'm hoping that when I receive my new version I'll discover that these units finally live up to their potential. I'll still have to live with the narrow 57 degree view, but at this point I'll settle for a stable picture. I'll try to remember to update this once I receive the newest unit.

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I bought this camera installed it and experienced interference almost everywhere. I called the company tech support waited twice for 45 minutes and was told that interference is normal. Bluetooth, power lines, 2.4 ghz phones, cell phones, and wi/fi will cause interference. Dah? That's everywhere.

I told them I wanted my money back, they refused. This is junk!! don't buy it.

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I installed a VR3 kit (4 buttons LCD version) into our new Toyota Sienna 2007 with no problem and it works very well. True, when I bench tested the kit it worked fine very stable and clean picture. When installed the reception a bit worse but not as bad as other's mentioned the picture has an occasional flick or two because now there's some sheet metal between the transmitter and the receiver in the LCD. But nothing too bad.

This kit is a great idea and quite good of the implementation. It is completely automatic put the car in the reverse and it's on, the LCD turns up and you see the image in about 3-5 seconds. When you switch to drive, the LCD turns off in about 3 seconds. Great! Also, night time performance is remarkable. The picture is good.

True it's only a CMOS-based camera (not CCD sensor everyone swears by) but it serves the purpose. A CCD camera alone would cost as mush as this whole kit.

The antenna for the transmitter would improve the stability of the system. Also keep in mind that the warranty is only 30 days since the purchase date. So buy and install it promptly. Or buy at Target or Costco or such to have at least 90 days to return it.

I like this kit and can recommend it.

Husky Liners Custom Fit WeatherBeater Molded Front and Second Seat Floor Liner Set for Select Subar

I had originally planned to buy some of the custom WeatherTech floor liners that I had seen advertised on TV (having never heard of the Husky liners). When I took my car in to get tinting and a clear-bra put on, I asked the guy there if he had any experience with the WeatherTechs. He indicated that they were good but he preferred the Husky liners.

After doing some research, I decided on the Husky liners as they cover up the floor-mat retention hole with rubber (so it can't leak through) and they have a bunch of pointy cones on the bottom that prevent the floor mats from shifting around.

Like other liners in this price range they are custom fit to the vehicle (2011 Subaru Legacy in my case) and they fit perfectly in the foot wells. The rear floor-mat is all one piece so it also covers up the hump in the rear footwell. By default they cover up the gas lever on the floor, but they have an area where you can cut it if you want. I leave mine covered and just reach underneath for the lever. With the high side-walls and the covered up holes these should hold a substantial amount of winter muck.

The only downside I can see is that I wish the material was a little thicker/sturdier as I'm wary of these wearing through quickly. Only time will tell how well they hold up.

Good fit. Good quality. Easy to install. Very heavy material and molded up on the edges to form a lip to prevent water, snow or spills from reaching the carpet underneath.

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Great Service and Great product. The fit was excellent.I previously owned the weather tech Floor mats and prefer the Husk liners

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I bought these the day after I bought my 2012 Outback and 18 months later I still think they were an excellent purchase. I got them in black which does show some dirt when dirty, but cleans up very easily. They also fit perfectly. My buddy has weathertechs in his truck and they feel too plastic-y and slide around a bit unlike the huskyliners which have a very grippy spiked backing. I have recommended them to friends and got my mom a set for her new Camry (in grey, a good color choice if it goes w/ your interior). One tip for any type of liners, if you get your car detailed make sure they only wipe them down and not "dress" with some armor-all type spray, otherwise they get slick.

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I ordered molded liners for a 2012 Subaru Legend. When the arrived, it was a simple matter to pull out the old carpet mats and slip these into place.

Can't speak to their long-term durability, but so far very pleased with them.

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Stanley J5C09 500-Amp Jump Starter with Built-In Air Compressor

This unit should provide the capacity needed to jump start most cars. However, there are a few things to note:

1. This unit does not have an automatic float charging system. This means you can't just leave it plugged in & expect it to maintain a full charge. Instead, you must periodically unplug it and replug it in (at least every few months). If you forget, you will not only not have a charged unit when you need it, but, the battery can become damaged as well if left to fully discharge. Chargers costing as little as $20 have this feature; There's no reason to exclude it on a unit like this.

2. This unit does not include a power cord. Instead, you will need to use an extension cord; it needs to be a single dongle version because of the design of the unit.

3. This unit does not include a storage compartment. Not a big deal, but, if you have some accessories you want to tote (like a power cord or inflation needle), you won't have a convenient place to store it.

I've also had two PowerStation units. One died within a year and the other still works (I think). Time will tell how the Stanley stacks up.

...and that's saying a lot, since this thing is so heavy.

I haven't used all the features, but I recently had a electrical problem in my car. The alternator was draining my battery, and I had to unplug it every time. I got the jump starter after my car was fixed, but then I forgot to turn my lights off two days later. This thing jumped my car just fine.

I also have a lot of problems with my tires in the winter, air slowly leaks out of one of my tires. This will come in handy then, as well. It'll save me a couple bucks going to the gas station to fill up air.

Pros: It works. Lots of features, including a cigarette lighter charger, USB charger, and air compressor for your tires. Easy to carry with the handle up top.

Cons: Heavy, it takes a long time to charge (15-19 hrs), and you'll need an extension cord to charge it.

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I drive a honda ridgeline pickup truck and my wife drive a honda civic. I've been looking for a decent jumpstarter that would be powerful enough for both of our vehicles. Rather then having 2 various models it just seemed easier to get two identical units. After reading reviews on several various jump-starters I opted for this model.

Now the most negative thing I could find about this thing was it lacked a flat charger so you couldn't leave it plugged in. For me that's not even a factor, after all I bought this to charge it and then put it in the trunk of my wifes car and in the cargo area of my truck. I don't intend on leaving this plugged in. So if you plan on using this HOW IT IS DESIGNED then you too don't even need to worry about the lack of a float charger.

That being said, the unit itself is a bit heavy, imagine picking up really big battery, that's essentially what this is. It has some weight to it.

The jumpstarter itself also features an interesting little light that pivots as well as an air compressor. I've heard/read back reviews on the air compressor, for me it's not why I bought it. But initial checks it looks like it works fine and even has somewhere to store the air hose which is really nice.

The one negative I have on this thing is the power switch for the air compressor is on the back and is not protected. In other words it could in theory be flipped on and drain the battery. So when you need to jump your car the starter would be dead. I wish they put a cover or moved the switch but honestly it would take a perfect mistake for that to get turned on so it's really not that critical. To prevent this from potentially happening I actually went down to Target and bought 2 milk crates,one for me and one for my wife. I put a jump starter, first aid kit, oil, etc in the crate so it's essentially the roadside emergency crate and also protects the jumpstarter from getting knocked around and/or turned on.

Overall I spent $140 total on 2 of these and I'm really happy with the quality. They charge overnight easily, the indicator lights show you the charge remaining on the battery and it has power ports for 12volt and USB which is an added bonus.

If you need a jumpstarter I would definitely consider this one.

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The basic function of one of these things is pretty simple: take a car with a dead battery and give it enough of a boost in juice to get the engine to turn over. They certainly beat trying to find and then position someone to get a jump between cars.

That said, there are several different "flavors" of jump starters. I've had the smaller 200 amp versions and found myself stranded when it didn't have enough oomph to start my car from a fully dead battery. I don't drive a tank or a pick-up with a Hemi, so it's not like I needed a lot of juice. The little one just didn't have the power. The person that was kind enough to brave a torrential downpour and give me a jump had a 500 amp that worked like a charm.

This thing is a life saver. Off of one charge, it's jump started over five cars and one was an Avalanche with a stone dead battery. The battery has held a charge for over a year, even being in my trunk the whole time. On top of being beefy enough to start every vehicle I've attached it to, there are little bells and whistles that add to the overall wow. There's an attached LED mini-spotlight comparable to a medium mag-lite, an air compressor and get this a USB port AND a socket similar to your car's cigarette lighter in case you want to power/charge a gadget for hours at a time without being near a computer. This thing has some heft but I didn't find it obnoxiously heavy. It certainly weighed less than a regular car battery!

Pros:

1. Portable

2. Powerful

3. Simple to use

4. Easy to understand charge meter

5. Attached LED light for use at night

6. Includes a USB port

7. Includes a cigarette lighter socket (and cord) for both powering gadgets and slow trickle charging your car's battery.

Cons:

1. No charge cord. You have to use a 3-prong extension cord to recharge this.

After using it for several years, I bought one for both parents and a good friend and they, too, love it. If you're on the fence about buying one of these, I'll make it easy: BUY IT. You won't regret it.

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I had to use this already and it worked great. I like how the postive and negive clamps clamp to the box so they aren't free. The light for the air compressor is great too. When you are in the dark the light on the side is handy to have.

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Stanley TGC11 Total Garage Center with Battery Charger and Compressor

I think this is a great concept, but the compressor end needs upgrading. Not really a powerful compressor but adequate for bicycle tires and such. The real week link is the non changeable chuck. You have to sit and hold the non automotive chuck on the valve until desired pressure is reached, would could take awhile. This compressor has the same power as a small AC portable compressor you plug into the power accessory plug in a car. Hopefully next editions will be upgraded. Until then I will be returning this edition.

I came home to the US for the holidays and bought this unit. It is cheap Chinese crap. Of the four castor wheels that came with it, three were locked up and wouldn't swivel. Despite the negative comment here from the first reviewer about the compressor, it worked fine for me. You just have to screw on the tire adapter, (not hold it) and it inflated my tires pretty quickly no hassle there. I don't think the other reviewer understood how to fasten the compressor hose to the valve stem of the tire.

The manual is poorly written and many parts are just plain wrong typical of Chinese manuals.

I called the stanley support number for help about the non swiveling castors but they indicated my only option was to re package up the whole unit and send it back ugh. I am not going through THAT hassle. I asked if I could just send back the bad castors but they indicated they don't have any spares so I went down to Home Depot and bought a set of castors for $18.00.

So I agree with the first customer review, a nice concept but the unit falls well short of the promises in the description.

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XScorpion Power or Ground Ring Terminal Platinum Plated Style Finish Distribution Block With Cover

• Customize the outputs with any size ring terminals as well as any size for the inputs (ring terminals not included)
• 100 percent solid brass construction
• Includes protective acrylic snap on cover and has a platinum plated style finish
• Very heavy duty and can be used for audio, marine and any underhood wiring and uses Allen type screw terminal to hold wire securely
• Xscorpion power and ground distribution blocks allow multiple amplifiers installations to be completed neatly and easily

I have used Darvex several times for auto/RV wiring products and always find them to have quality products at great prices. This terminal is another example of that. I am a bit disappointed that the protective plastic cover does not seem to latch very securely to the base. I hope it doesn't pop off on its own.

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